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07-03-2017, 01:58 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Name: Joan
Trailer: Companion
Michigan
Posts: 157
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When to Paint Exterior
I am redoing a 1984 Campanion Trailer, and I have it pretty much down to the fiberglass shell- just a couple more small things to remove. But I'd really like to do enough of the interior to be able to use it yet this summer and paint the exterior maybe next year.
Is this a bad plan? Do I really need to remove the windows and repaint the whole thing first? The exterior is badly crazed.
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07-03-2017, 02:15 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Name: KAY
Trailer: SCAMP
Missouri
Posts: 377
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Have you tried the "attack with Barkeepers Friend" yet? In your profile picture, there is actually some reflection from the camera flash. If the oxidation is really bad, it would look like flat paint. You might be able to clean it down and hit it with the Zep Wet Look wax a few coats. That would certainly stop any further degradation of the surface.
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07-03-2017, 06:07 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Name: Joan
Trailer: Companion
Michigan
Posts: 157
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That picture was the day I brought it home 3 years ago. It's pretty flat and chalky now.
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07-03-2017, 06:20 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Name: KAY
Trailer: SCAMP
Missouri
Posts: 377
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You should try getting the oxidation off first, even if you are still planning on painting. Start with the Bar Keepers Friend. Get the surface where it doesn't feel gritty. Choose a spot that you can apply several coats of wax and see if you can get the shine up.
If you can't get discolorations off and it just looks blotchy, you will have already done most of your prep work for a good paint finish. You will have to strip the wax off before painting so don't do a huge section. Most people put about 6 coats of the Zep Wet Look on for best results.
Also, check member Karen K. 's page. She redid a Companion and it's pretty remarkable.
Registry
Search the Registry
Go to Make and scroll down til you see Companion
Then search.
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07-03-2017, 06:55 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Name: Joan
Trailer: Companion
Michigan
Posts: 157
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Thanks, I'll take a look.
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07-04-2017, 12:21 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Name: Dave
Trailer: Casita SD17 2006 "Missing Link"
California
Posts: 3,738
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I'd try the BKers & Zep like Kay said, it sure can't hurt a thing and may buy you a little shine
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07-04-2017, 07:18 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Name: Joan
Trailer: Companion
Michigan
Posts: 157
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I think I need to restate that I'm not concerned about shine per se, I'm wondering if the fact that the surface is so crazed and cracking that real damage could occur.
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07-04-2017, 09:38 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Name: Jon
Trailer: 2008 Scamp 13 S1
Arizona
Posts: 11,960
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If it's just surface crazing/cracking in the gelcoat, I don't see a compelling reason to paint. My 2008 Scamp has a few spider cracks here and there. Keeping a good coat of wax should be enough for now.
Barkeepers Friend will remove heavy oxidation. You can then follow with Zep liquid floor wax or an automotive or fiberglass-specific marine wax.
Zep would probably give the best and longest-lasting protection for a heavily weathered finish like yours. It typically lasts 1-3 seasons depending on the local climate and how it is stored. It does have to be stripped before being reapplied. Lots of old threads on how to apply & strip. Use the "Site Search/Google" function at the bottom of the Search menu to find them.
Automotive or marine wax is typically a once- or twice-a-year job (definitely twice in our high altitude AZ sun). After using ordinary automotive paste wax for a number of years (lots of elbow grease required), I switched to Meguiar's Marine Polish and Wax. Less effort to apply and buff out, but more expensive and durability remains to be seen.
Even if you paint, you will still have to wax regularly to maintain the finish. Paint is usually indicated after major fiberglass repair.
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07-04-2017, 10:40 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Name: Joan
Trailer: Companion
Michigan
Posts: 157
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Thanks, Jon, this was helpful. That said, I do have four holes to fill, one of them very large. I'm prepared to let them be ugly for a few years if I can put off the painting.
Also need opinions on whether I can paint later without taking the windows out. Every thread I've seen where they painted it's been done on an empty shell. But I'd like to get the interior at least mostly done so I can use the trailer, if not this year, surely next.
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07-04-2017, 10:49 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Name: Joan
Trailer: Companion
Michigan
Posts: 157
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I'm in Michigan and it has to be stored outdoors. I'll take a close picture of the surface and post it later.
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07-04-2017, 10:58 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Name: Joan
Trailer: Companion
Michigan
Posts: 157
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BKF soft scrub or regular?
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07-04-2017, 11:05 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Name: Jon
Trailer: 2008 Scamp 13 S1
Arizona
Posts: 11,960
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I use the powder made into a thin paste with water before applying. The soft scrub isn't sold in my area, so it might be about the same thing.
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07-04-2017, 11:20 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Name: Jack L
Trailer: Sold the Bigfoot 17-Looking for a new one
Washington
Posts: 1,562
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If you paint over gel coat cracks, they will "telegraph" through the new paint. Grinding off the gel coat in the entire area would be needed. If you do decide to paint the trailer, removing the windows and other trim would be best. Any Zep or other polish would have to be removed before painting too. I have some gel coat cracking and feel it is best to live with it.
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07-04-2017, 11:51 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Name: Joan
Trailer: Companion
Michigan
Posts: 157
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Jon & Jack- thanks! I've taken some pictures of the bad areas and well... I'll post later. Working on repairing my first big hole in fiberglass. (Previously only experience was with cracks or punch breaks in a canoe.)
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07-04-2017, 01:37 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Name: Joan
Trailer: Companion
Michigan
Posts: 157
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Pictures Showing my Concern Level with Exterior Surface
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07-04-2017, 02:20 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Name: KAY
Trailer: SCAMP
Missouri
Posts: 377
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That is crying out for a nice, filling coat of good quality paint. Marine topcoat. You can go more expensive with Interlux, or basic and simple with Rustoleum Marine. Both will give you a good run, but the Rustoleum will be more budget friendly. The worst part is the limited colors. They do tend to lean toward marine applications. You will still need to sand it for a solid painting surface and to remove any gelcoat that is loose.
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07-04-2017, 02:26 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Name: Joan
Trailer: Companion
Michigan
Posts: 157
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Thanks- that's what I was thinking. Some places look bad. Well, I looked at both paints last night, and will probably go with Interlux because I want yellow and white. So now I know what I have to do, but it puts a dent in what I was hoping would be immediate fun (the interior). I've got the backing for the first hole curing, and am just about to go fill it. Ordered some Cabosil for the top fill. That might take a week to arrive, but I can get the holes patched and ready for that top layer to keep out the rain and the wasps.
Oh, and I got the wheel off the lawn tractor! Delivery to the tire place in the morning on the way to work.
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07-04-2017, 04:01 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Name: Jon
Trailer: 2008 Scamp 13 S1
Arizona
Posts: 11,960
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Are you sure that's gelcoat and not a previous coat of paint?
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07-04-2017, 04:41 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Name: Joan
Trailer: Companion
Michigan
Posts: 157
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I believe this to be the original factory finish. The decals and Companion lettering seem to be professional and not tampered with. Previous owner did nothing with exterior. I have no info from earlier. It's 33 years old, eh?
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07-04-2017, 05:05 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Name: Michael J
Trailer: U-Haul VT
Indiana
Posts: 505
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The rumor is that companion used UHaul molds, if yours is a 1984 then it would have been produced during the same period UHaul was making theirs. Another Conundrum. Could Companion have used Burro molds? They look more like UHaul than Burro.
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