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05-05-2015, 06:08 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Name: Frank
Trailer: 2012 ParkLiner #006
New York
Posts: 2,273
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Where to store the stinky slinky in a Parkliner?
I could not believe the cheapness of the stinky slinky that came with our Parkliner. It was housed in this thing attached to the front of our trailer:
We don't use it at all, so I would like to remove it, but wonder what I'm going to get when I do. Take a look at one of the 4 mounting points (they all look the same):
My idea is to use a large square piece of plastic tubing attached to the top of the battery box for the stinky slinky. Here's a shot of what I mean, but please understand this is just a piece of tubing I had laying around and it is not cut to size or clean! I would need to fashion a fixed end and an end that would easily open. I don't think that would be difficult:
The benefit of the tubing is that it fits almost perfectly, with maybe 1/4" front (propane cover) and back (front of the trailer).
Thing is, we have other "stuff" that would not fit in the square tubing, like the right angle end for the slinky and our accordion support for it. Maybe find a plastic box of some kind and use the 4 attachment points used for that small tube now mounted for a small cheap slinky on the front of the trailer?
I'm open to ideas!
Frank
__________________
2012 ParkLiner #006
2013 4wd 4 door F150 3.5L Ecoboost with 9200# tow package
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05-05-2015, 06:16 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Name: bob
Trailer: 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
Posts: 5,384
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Your original tube looks identical to what is on our Casita. I was told a square pvc fence post works good. I used a plastic tub for the rest of the parts and extra slinky. Put it in the back of the truck
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05-05-2015, 06:19 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Name: Frank
Trailer: 2012 ParkLiner #006
New York
Posts: 2,273
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mary and bob
Your original tube looks identical to what is on our Casita. I was told a square pvc fence post works good. I used a plastic tub for the rest of the parts and extra slinky. Put it in the back of the truck
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That's what it is! You win the prize!
No longer using the truck for hauling the egg. We have no outside storage on our egg. I'm thinking of some kind of white plastic box that would attach where the original slinky tube is attached for the extra stuff.
Frank
__________________
2012 ParkLiner #006
2013 4wd 4 door F150 3.5L Ecoboost with 9200# tow package
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05-05-2015, 06:40 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Name: bob
Trailer: 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
Posts: 5,384
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How about an orange box?? Also available in grey.
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05-05-2015, 07:36 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Name: Ron
Trailer: 2015 Oliver Legacy Elite II - Hull #69
South Carolina
Posts: 356
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I'm considering adding a couple Valterra white tubes to the underside of my Oliver. I'd rather put my coil hose in one, and an extra sewer hose extension in another. Not sure I'd like the look or not, so I'm still mulling the idea.
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05-05-2015, 07:42 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Name: Norm and Ginny
Trailer: Scamp 16
Florida
Posts: 7,513
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With various RVs I've attached a square fence post under the trailer and attached to the rear bumper.
__________________
Norm and Ginny
2014 Honda Odyssey
1991 Scamp 16
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05-05-2015, 08:08 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1988 16 ft Scamp Deluxe
Posts: 25,584
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Looks like the piece of junk tube added to the front of Scamps. What? Like that adds to the looks of the trailer? Besides if it's left off, that at least four through hull rivets that will never be potential leak areas. Fence posts and other stuff added to the frame for the holder RULE!
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
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05-05-2015, 08:38 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2004 13 ft Scamp Custom Deluxe
Posts: 8,451
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here's my solution, it weighs 11 pounds and cost me 5 dollars (plus 10 for the end plugs...
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05-05-2015, 10:19 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Name: Steve
Trailer: Scamp 13
California
Posts: 1,890
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Check if you can strap it to the side of the frame running from the hitch back to under the body. Someone here put a plastic gutter inside the fence post to act as a drawer.
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05-06-2015, 07:22 AM
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#10
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Junior Member
Name: Bob
Trailer: Parkliner
Pennsylvania
Posts: 11
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I mounted my slinky holder underneath behind the axle, screwed into the plywood under the trailer. (Didn't like it attached to the front, so asked Chandler not to mount.) It is reasonably easy to reach and keeps it out of sight. It isn't much closer to the ground than the axle, but I suppose some day a large rock will remove it if I'm not careful. I considered the fence post idea, but you can't slide in the slinky end fittings.
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05-06-2015, 07:55 AM
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#11
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Moderator
Trailer: 2009 19 ft Escape / 2009 Honda Pilot
Posts: 6,172
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I used a black Valterra holder, mounted under my Escape 19. I went black, as everything underside was black. I added some aluminum adapters to match the holes in the holder, to attach to the frame with self tapping screws. It took less than a couple hours to do, and works great. Way better than having it on top of my back bumper.
__________________
2017 Escape 5.0 TA
2015 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5L EcoBoost
2009 Escape 19 (previous)
“Most folks are about as happy as they make up their minds to be.” — Abraham Lincoln
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05-06-2015, 09:11 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Name: Walter
Trailer: 2017 Escape 17B
SW Virginia
Posts: 2,231
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Those fence post covers come in several sizes from 4" to at least 5 1/2". Any of them from 5" up will hold the 90 dg rhino fitting if removed from the hose.
On my Casitas and Parkliner I mounted one behind the propane tanks like Frank. On my BigFoot I've mounted it under the trailer body like Jim.
Walt
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05-06-2015, 10:56 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Name: Bob Ruggles
Trailer: 2015 Escape
Michigan
Posts: 1,534
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I used a 5" fence post on my EggCamper attached to the bumper. It held the right angle fitting plus the screw in "thingy" that fits in the ground. I kept things in the fence post with a 1/4 inch bolt through each end across the opening and secured with a wing nut.
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05-06-2015, 01:08 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Name: Frank
Trailer: 2012 ParkLiner #006
New York
Posts: 2,273
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Man o man, you folks are the best! Thanks for the ideas. I got some measuring to do and will let y'all know how I make out.
Frank
__________________
2012 ParkLiner #006
2013 4wd 4 door F150 3.5L Ecoboost with 9200# tow package
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05-06-2015, 01:59 PM
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#15
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Member
Name: Marijke
Trailer: Biod X2
Alberta
Posts: 95
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I hope this question is not too awfully stupid, but what is a stinky slinky?
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05-06-2015, 02:34 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1973 Compact Jr and 1980 Bigfoot 17 ft
Posts: 1,339
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Stinky slinky is slang for the large hose used to drain black and gray water.
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping...ewer-kit/44151
__________________
1980 Bigfoot 17' & former owner of 1973 Compact Jr
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05-06-2015, 06:34 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Name: Frank
Trailer: 2012 ParkLiner #006
New York
Posts: 2,273
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This is what I'm going to do. I took everyone's comments and crawled all over under the trailer looking at ideas, and none matched the benefits of this concept:
That has the stinky slinky in it, compressed to fit, with the right angle at one end, the waste tank fitting (with the adapter for the right angle end) at the other end, plus an inch or two. This is not measured centered, but will be soon. I need end caps, and will use the long machine screw and wing nut fastener someone here suggested.
Frank
__________________
2012 ParkLiner #006
2013 4wd 4 door F150 3.5L Ecoboost with 9200# tow package
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05-06-2015, 07:34 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Name: Walter
Trailer: 2017 Escape 17B
SW Virginia
Posts: 2,231
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Looks good Frank. Glad we could all collectively help. Please show us the finished product.
Walt
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05-07-2015, 03:17 AM
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#19
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Senior Member
Name: Frank
Trailer: 2012 ParkLiner #006
New York
Posts: 2,273
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Thanks Walt. By the way, this tube is 4-3/4" square. 4" would not have worked. I'll see if I can find end caps today.
Frank
__________________
2012 ParkLiner #006
2013 4wd 4 door F150 3.5L Ecoboost with 9200# tow package
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05-07-2015, 04:28 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
Name: Norm and Ginny
Trailer: Scamp 16
Florida
Posts: 7,513
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I use a wing nut. A through hole through the cap and a smaller hole to screw in to the post.
I also deform the bottom side of the cap, heating it over the stove and then bend it slightly inward. This provides a little pressure between the cap and post easily keeping the bottom in place.
__________________
Norm and Ginny
2014 Honda Odyssey
1991 Scamp 16
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