Who Has Replaced a Scamp Axle in Los Angeles Area

[Thee Jimbo]

Hello

I am despirately trying to replace my axle on my 1980 Scamp 13'.

So far I have tried three different places with different results. I plan on using a Dexter axle and I will list the specs I know (so far) below. Dexter quoted me approx $365 which includes shipping.

Arrow Trailer seemed highly recommeneded, however they wanted to charge me to measure my axle, and their axle price was about twice what dexter wanted, in addition to cutting off the old axle and putting on brackets to bolt the new axle to. Their estimate was about two grand.

Now I know prices may have gone up some, but most other similar work was done for 800-1K (including the price for the axle).

Second place I contacted, was Accruate Trailer in Santa Clarita, he said I did not need an axle (even though I am riding low and my fridge is bouncing loose, and by fire extinguisher and cabinet door "bounced" off the walls on my last trip.

Finally I canned Marksman, he said he could order an axle but I would need to measure it myself.

I know a lot of the measurements, but I dont want to have to measure everything and miss something or get something wrong and end up with an axle I cant use.

So Far this is what I have:

#9 Leading Axle 2k rating (derated to 1800 lbs)
w/e-brakes (swap brakes if "trailing")
10 degrees down
4 on 4 lugs
Bolted to "side mount" brackets

The rest of the "detailed" measurements I am not sure about.

Any suggestions on where to go to get this done, or has anyone replaced their axle on a similar year 13' Scamp and has a copy of their order sheet??

Thank you!!!!!!

[Carol H]

Jimbo use the search option and the bottom google option and type in Scamp axle replacement and you will find lots of good info and answers to your questions. Pretty common to have to do some measuring before ordering - there have been lots oooppps posted here in regards to the wrong axle being ordered.

Looking at the real world weights on the Scamps 13's listed I think I would be looking for an axle with a bit more than 1800 lbs rating. Or is that what Scamp is putting on their 13's currently?

[Rick Mooyman]

I would have the shop measure it out because if they get it wrong it is their fault if you measure it and it is wrong then you have just bought 2 axels. The shop charging you $2000 is ripping you off big time. The whole axel swap should only take a couple of hours or so in labor.

[stevebaz]

See post 5
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...nfo-62002.html

[Eddie Longest]

Jimbo
Add E Z lube hubs and mounting brackets to your order list. You also want camber applied to the axle. Because Scamp has the dropped floor you will need to specify 1" mounting perch. I replaced a S-13 Axle about a year ago and I pulled the tag off the old axle for ordering the new one but can't find it right now. Scamp replaced an axle for me about 5 years ago and they installed a 22.5 degree down axle.
Tell who ever replaces you axle to cut off the old swing arms first. It makes it much easier to get to the weld to cut off the old axle. You only need two measurements, bracket width and Hub face. It is easier to do with two people, the trailer on jack stands and both rims removed.
Eddie

[Thee Jimbo]

Thanks for the tips. I definitely want the shop to order it. They have experience measuring. I don't. But any numbers would help in case I "have" to

Bracket is on the list and I will add the ez lube.

Does it sit too High with the 22 down?

[aznative]

I got a new Dexter axle for my Boler. I went to a mechanic to do it for 2 reasons.
1. My boler had leading arm configuration and Dexter only makes trailing arm now. So I didn't feel comfortable getting the exact measurement. Plus now that I switched arm positioning a trailing arm will need a good piece of metal tubing so it can clear my fiberglass tub. The axle needed to be moved forward to fit in the wheel well.
2. I did not want to weld the square tubing with fiberglass so close to it.
But if I just had to loosen up the old axle and put in a new one I would of done it. It was the whole welding thing that got me spooked.

[Eddie Longest]

If I recall correctly on an older reverse mount the the axle is mounted to the rear raised frame member making it being mounted 3" higher than the newer Scamp. 22.5 degree down on a newer forward facing axle Scamp will make the hitch too high for a normal car hitch and it would also require a step for the door. On my 82 Scamp we were comfortable with the 22.5 degree axle.
Eddie
http://l.b5z.net/i/u/6149609/f/Axle_Measurement.pdf

[Thee Jimbo]

I read a ton of posts here and want to use a leading axle. (Which means ordering a dexter axle n flipping the brake pads to make it a leading setup. As noted above if it was unbolt n bolt back on I'd be or but since there is some math involved I want to be 100% sure

As for height I am adding brackets and will stay with a leading arm in roughly the original position but more degrees means higher ride. So 22 would be Higher up that 10 and if I use a bracket instead of welding on 22 would put me way too high. .....

Correct?

[Eddie Longest]

Under no load the #9 is about 1.75" higher, under full load it is about 1" higher. (The 22.5 deg, swing arm.) The bolt on bracket only adds .25" inches. FYI Dexter is now offering a replaceable spindle as an option. Also with a forward mount axle config. there is a little interference on the curb side and you have to cut a notch out of the axle bracket to make the new axle fit. I'm not sure if you can use the bolt on brackets because of the interference.
Eddie

[Bob Miller]

I have used Arrow Trailer's Axle Department several times for parts as well as some service, even as recently as two weeks ago, and have found them to be fair priced and honest in their work.

You might want to recheck with them. Maybe there was a misunderstanding about what you wanted.

[Eddie Longest]

Bobs right. I think most people here are quoting prices for only welding on the axle. Your quotes may be including the brake wiring which will run the price up quite a bit.

[Thee Jimbo]

Eddie shouldn't run two grand for parts n labor on a four hundred dollar axle. Sixteen hundred dollars markup n labor to cut off an axle weld on two brackets and bolt the axle on to the brackets....

I'm willing to pay for experience but that seems excessive..

[Thee Jimbo]

Missed the brake wiring part. There's already a wire from my harness to the underside of the trailer. Two nuts or some solder and were good to go.

[Eddie Longest]

I usually cut off my axles and position the new axle. The welder swings by my house and welds on the new axle for $100. Cutting off the old axle is the worse part of the job. I think Scamp charges less than $200 plus axle cost for the complete job and it takes them about two hours if you are in their neighborhood,. You should figure on 3-4 hours of labor if they don't do them every day. If my welding guy is tied up I just weld them on myself.
Eddie

[Thee Jimbo]

I could have someone position the bracket n weld it on. Does it nern to be cut off with a torch or will a cutting every work?

Problem is getting the right axle. I don't trust my measuring skills enough since I'm nor familiar with these axles :-/

[Thee Jimbo]

Aznative maybe I just need a long trip to Arizona to see your mechanic. Where in Arizona are you?

[RogerDat]

22.5 degrees seems like a lot of down angle, you can find your original down angle by removing the tire. The square axle shaft where it comes through the arm and is welded was originally positioned so two of the points where parallel to the frame <>

• Remove the tire so you can see the arm and where it attaches to the axle.
• Then use a jack or pry bar to position the arm so the corners of the axle shaft are aligned in the original position like so <>
• You can now see or use a protractor to measure the down angle the arm the tire mounts on originally had.

You probably won't have to actually measure down angle because it is most likely one of the standard ones (0, 10, 22.5, 45) so they are visually pretty different, with 0 being arm parallel with trailer frame and 45 being half way to straight down. Anything different than stock start angle will change the height of the trailer. More so if the shop welds a riser to deal with the next issue, the brackets.

Standard torsion axle the bracket that welds to the trailer is off set so it provides a longer weld toward the tire spindle, same direction the arm is pointed. That is where the load is focused at the tire. On a scamp however the axle is welded in right where the frame drops for the main floor. It is tucked into the corner formed by the frame going up for the rear dinette. No room for the axle mounting bracket to extend toward the front.

That means an exact measurement of the bracket and it's position OR welding a riser onto the frame to make the raised part of the frame level with the main floor so the long side of the bracket can point forward. Using a riser will place the axle a few inches lower so even original down angle axle will raise the trailer about as much as the dinette floor is above the main floor. Starts to make that step into the trailer require an actual step.

What the trailer guys that replaced mine did is figured out the original spindle height from the original down angle and ordered axle with down angle and low profile bracket to reproduce that original spindle location. This provided "stock" ride height for trailer. Helped that they drive down to an axle factory in Indiana about once a week and could talk directly with them to go over a shop sketch of the axle they wanted.
.
These guys are third generation working in family trailer fabrication business and they did not want anything to do with converting my trailer to a trailing arm axle. Despite the extra hassle of ordering the custom axle they preferred that to trying to re-engineer a trailing arm.

First picture in this Dexter literature you can clearly see the "diamond" running parallel and the bracket is longest in the direction of the spindle. Which is backwards of a scamp leading arm bracket. Turn that standard axle around and the standard bracket won't fit in original location.

http://l.b5z.net/i/u/6149609/f/Trail...nformation.pdf

I would get the standard 5 bolt pattern not the 4 bolt. Brake hubs for 4 bolt are harder to find as parts and more expensive. The hubs were $50 each and only Dexter had them in stock. If you stay with 4 bolt might want to consider picking up a spare 4 bolt hub with bearing in it because not likely to find it in stock on the road. Mount it directly to the spare or stash it in the camper. I wish now I had done 5 bolt instead of the original 4 bolt. I went 4 bolt to avoid buying new rims but spent almost as much extra on the brake hubs.

To use 5 bolt rims and mount a spare tire on the back you would need to modify your spare tire bracket to line up with the 5 bolt pattern. The two existing spare mounting bolts don't line up with the holes on a 5 bolt rim.

This is a pretty easy. Essentially just a channel with bolts in new location that line up with 2 of the 5 bolt holes on the rim, and 2 holes in the bracket that line up with the existing bolts on the trailer. An adapter if you will. Maybe a bar or channel running down to the bumper to form a "T" with the bracket adapter, gain some support from the bumper for the spare tire.

If I had figured out the spare tire mount before I ordered the axle I would have definitely gone with 5 bolt hubs. Between new rims and not knowing how I would mount the spare I went 4 bolt, regret it now (but not all that much).

[RogerDat]

You know I should have just posted this link. Some pictures in there, lots of smart folks who have been there and done that weighing in.

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...ing-60297.html

[Thee Jimbo]

Roger dat thanks for all that info!! Lots to look into. Thx