Window seals & hardware for 76 Scamp tilt out windows

[Jenny W.]

I hope this helps someone in the future.
When I bought my camper 2 months ago all of the windows had been sealed shut due to leakage and the difficulty of finding replacement hardware. Scamp made very few campers with the particular style of windows that I have. I've seen other Scamps on this forum that will have the front & back tilt outs, but then side windows are the multi pane jalousie . My side windows are single tilt outs. I'd be very interested in knowing that of the said 600 that Scamp's website says they made in '76 - how many where made with my window combination. (So if anyone out there knows - do tell).
Here's a pic of my window combo -



Here's the list of what I used:
Seals that go on the back of the operable part of the window and rest against the window frame of the trailer is the Jalousie Bulb Seal from Vintage Trailer Supply. The operating levers really work well to pull the window tight to the frame. So no leakage!




I did replace the plexi, therefore had to get new glazing splines. These go on the outer part of the window. Look for the 5/16" drop in glazing spline from www.swisco.com. It's gray - picture makes it look brown. The plexi will need to be notched out at the bracket locations. Without doing so, the glazing spline won't fix. You'll already have the plexi in the frame. Then just start pressing it in - it sets itself in. Miter the corners for the square windows. For the side windows, start the spline at the top in the middle.



The window hardware was super difficult. My camper didn't have any of the remaining levers. I had one little bracket that was left on the frame. So here's what I came up with - I bought the Hehr #614 Link Levers from Vintage Trailer Supply and some small mirror brackets from Home Depot. I took the frames, levers & brackets to a machine shop and had them cut off the curved end pieces of the levers, weld the levers to the brackets and then rivet the bracket to the window frame (at the old bracket location). Be sure to give them the exact dimensions of where those slots on the frame are. Once the lever and the bracket are attached to each other - the thickness cannot be more than 1/4" (in order to fit through that slot).
So that's it. Now I need to replace the screens, but it's finally ready to go camping!

[David Morgan]

Thank you for the info. I am about to rebuild my windows too! I have the same front and rear windows on my 77'. But I have never seen those side windows. They realy tilt out too? Those are really REALLY cool! I am glad you found those seals. Thank you for posting your sources!! And Good Job!

[Jenny W.]

Even the door window tilts out - but I left that one sealed shut for security reasons.

[David Morgan]

Even the door window tilts out - but I left that one sealed shut for security reasons.

We have the tilt out door window too. It flops open down the road. I Love to open it when camping.. But I have considered sealing it up several times.

Can you post a close up picture of the latches you have on the outside on those windows? Is that what you were talking about that you manufactured? I am curious because we don't have those but I do have some strange holes...

Your dinette windows must be nearly one of a kind! I have never seen those before!

Thank you!

[Jenny W.]

Can you post a close up picture of the latches you have on the outside on those windows? Is that what you were talking about that you manufactured? I am curious because we don't have those but I do have some strange holes...

I'll take some pictures this weekend. They look kind of like wing nuts, but longer. I'm going to replace them because they are rusted, but the screw heads are stripped - so it might take me awhile to fix them. I bought window sash latches from Home Depot - but I'm not sure if they'll work. Either way, the latches are there to push the window further against the frame. It really squishes the bulb seal, so I'm confident I won't have any leaks

I had the #614 link levers modified. I'll also take pictures of those as well.

Thanks David! Good luck on your windows! Now that mine work & this is all behind me, I do feel lucky to have something rare.

[David Morgan]

I'll take some pictures this weekend. They look kind of like wing nuts, but longer. I'm going to replace them because they are rusted, but the screw heads are stripped - so it might take me awhile to fix them. I bought window sash latches from Home Depot - but I'm not sure if they'll work. Either way, the latches are there to push the window further against the frame. It really squishes the bulb seal, so I'm confident I won't have any leaks

I had the #614 link levers modified. I'll also take pictures of those as well.

Thanks David! Good luck on your windows! Now that mine work & this is all behind me, I do feel lucky to have something rare.

Thank you for all the information. I look forward to seeing those pictures!

Happy Trails!!

[Jenny W.]

Here are some pictures of the outer latches, levers, installed bulb seal & glazing spline -

old latch



new latch




New levers (modified Hehr #614)




Bulb Seal




Glazing Spline

[David Morgan]

Here are some pictures of the outer latches, levers, installed bulb seal & glazing spline -

Wow... Those are great pictures. Thank you!

I don't believe that those latches are factory, but they are a great idea. The upgraded version you installed look great! Great job on the inside levers as well. Those look way stronger than the originals. Great job on your window renovations!!! I am going to order the supplies and start on mine!

Thank you!!

[Jenny W.]

Wow... Those are great pictures. Thank you!

I don't believe that those latches are factory, but they are a great idea. The upgraded version you installed look great! Great job on the inside levers as well. Those look way stronger than the originals. Great job on your window renovations!!! I am going to order the supplies and start on mine!

Thank you!!

Thanks David!
I just started replacing the screens. It's harder than I thought in a way. I started to replace them with the true aluminum screening. That stuff is a pain to work with. I kept tearing it as I was installing. It also does not cut easily without snagging. So then I moved on to gray fiberglass screening. Much easier to work with, but sags because it doesn't have any rigidity. Anyone out there have any tips and tricks?

[Donna D.]

This isn't a "Problem," this is modifications and neat updates and a very good one Thanks for posting all the particulars Jenny. Others will find it of value, I'm sure. I'm moving this topic to "Modifications."

[David Morgan]

Thanks David!
I just started replacing the screens. It's harder than I thought in a way. I started to replace them with the true aluminum screening. That stuff is a pain to work with. I kept tearing it as I was installing. It also does not cut easily without snagging. So then I moved on to gray fiberglass screening. Much easier to work with, but sags because it doesn't have any rigidity. Anyone out there have any tips and tricks?

I Was thinking that would be a difficult task. I hope someone has some help on the screen... because It too is on my list!

BTW - Don't let Donna near your windows.... She has a thing for the Jalousie Windows as it is. With how cool and unique yours are they would be sure to sprout legs and transplant

Hehehe.. Just kidding..

[Jenny W.]

BTW - Don't let Donna near your windows.... She has a thing for the Jalousie Windows as it is. With how cool and unique yours are they would be sure to sprout legs and transplant

Good thing I live so far away!

[Donna D.]

BTW - Don't let Donna near your windows.... She has a thing for the Jalousie Windows as it is. With how cool and unique yours are they would be sure to sprout legs and transplant

Hehehe.. Just kidding..

No you're not David and that's okay. I'd LOVE to have jalousie windows. Everytime I read where someone wants to pull them out and put in the "modern sliders" I cringe.

Ohhhh Jenny, I'm so glad for you that you were able to fix yours!!

[Mike L.]

This is way after the fact, but do the modified link lever arms lock down the windows at all or is this only done with the outside latches? Thank you.

[Jenny W.]

Originally Posted by Mike L.

This is way after the fact, but do the modified link lever arms lock down the windows at all or is this only done with the outside latches? Thank you.

They pretty much do. The old latches were already there, so decided to keep them. Once you replace the arms on the inside, you can then see how it goes and add the latches later if you want to. The latches were inexpensive (about $2.50 a pair).
Good luck! Let us know how it goes!

[Faith]

Looks like I have waited long enough for someone else to figure out the problem. Thanks for your thinking caps. I fully stripped the 77S13 and have been slowly making mods, but those window props have been a real puzzle. The old props appear to be just pot metal and at this age they are breaking. I do wish that the props could be longer so that the windows could be opened wider to catch a breeze.

[Mike L.]

The Hehr #614's, as you noted, need to be modified in order to match the holes in the window frames. It's too bad that these aren't just right as we ordered them.
Also, on my '76 Scamp 13' trailer the inside latches meant to lock down the link levers are at least 2" above the length of these Hehr #614's. I gave this part an unfavorable review.
Where did you take your levers to have them modified?

Thank you

Originally Posted by Jenny W.

Here are some pictures of the outer latches, levers, installed bulb seal & glazing spline -

old latch

Attachment 27972

new latch

Attachment 27973


New levers (modified Hehr #614)

Attachment 27974


Bulb Seal

Attachment 27976


Glazing Spline

Attachment 27977

[Mike L.]

Just an update: I'm in NW Oregon and the trailer is outdoors. The rains have made window work hard to do but I took farther steps today and made the entry below. We're anxious to get out in the trailer!

[Jenny W.]

I took them to a machine shop because I didn't have a tool to cut them myself and weld them to the mirror bracket. For the attachments on the inside I used rivets to attach them to the window frame. I wish there was a perfect solution to our windows, but this works just fine. Good luck!

[Mike L.]

I've found a metal fabricator who says that he can make correct link levers for me. The #614's are just not correct. They won't fasten to the window and the inside arm is too short to reach the brackets intended to lock the windows closed. I'll let everyone know how they work once he's made them. I don't have a price yet but will post that too. I'll return the incorrect link levers to Vintage Trailer Supply