Yet another jack questions--this time, Scamp 13

[CBinID]

I acquired a pair of Atwood jacks for my scamp, and it looks like new Scamps come with jacks welded to the bumper.

Can anyone comment on the usability of Atwood Jacks http://www.amazon.com/Atwood-82301-S...abilizer+jacks and confirm or deny that Scamps now come with them welded to the rear bumper, at least on the S13 and S16?

I've been using scissor jacks for years, but they are a bugger to carry around. Based on the recommendations in other threads, I'm definitely going to look into one of the suggested types of jacks.

Cathy

[mszabo]

Cathy, you can drill and bolt them on if you like. An easy do!

[M Scott]

My 2005 Scamp came with welded rear jacks - a real pain to use because they have limited rising options. If I use them I usually have to add risers under the jacks.

I also use portable aluminum stack jacks in the front to ease the load on the tongue. If you get a set of 4, they stack easily and are lightweight.

[sokhapkin]

2014 Scamps come with the jacks bolted (not welded) to the rear bumper. To stabilize the trailer I usually lower tongue jack, extend stabilizer jacks and then level the trailer using tongue jack. Works fine on Scamp 16.

[Carol H]

My 92 Scamp has them bolted onto the rear bumper. I actually like them there as it is one less thing to have to bring along loose in the trailer or tug. They work fine for me. I do have a pack of leveling blocks that I use under the tires of the trailer but use the extras under the rear jacks if the ground is so unlevel the rear racks need extra height to land on.

[Bill Nolen]

My 1978 Scamp 13 has them bolted to the rear bumper.

One of the jacks I questions as to whether or not it will stay up when traveling. So I plan on using two straps to ensure that my jacks stay up!

Bill

[mary and bob]

I have them on the rear of my Uhaul and Casita and the front of our teardrop. Note they are "stabilizers", not intended to lift the trailer. I level side to side by blocking under a tire, or dig under one if on dirt, then level front to rear with the tongue jack and then set the stabilizers. I use the screw type stands on the front corners of the Uhaul and Casita.

[Carol H]

Originally Posted by Bill Nolen

My 1978 Scamp 13 has them bolted to the rear bumper.

One of the jacks I questions as to whether or not it will stay up when traveling. So I plan on using two straps to ensure that my jacks stay up!

Bill

I have never had mine come down even though I don't always travel on paved roads but my friends have had theirs come down a couple of times so they strap them.

I think it may have to do with how tight the bolts are. For example if the bolts are over tightened on mine I can't get the jacks down for the life of me.

As has been mentioned they really are just stabilizers & not jacks. They are there to reduce the trailer movement when people are walking around in the trailer and to stop the tongue from going straight up in the air when two people get into the rear bed at night! Don't laugh have actually seen that happen a coupe of times now at trailer rallies.

[M Scott]

As I mentioned earlier, my rear jacks/stablizers that came with my Scamp are fairly useless on uneven ground. I use a BAL light trailer leveler that I absolutely love. It's available at RV stores and on Amazon. It's a bit heavy and awkward to pack, but I won't leave town without it.

[Carol H]

Originally Posted by M Scott

As I mentioned earlier, my rear jacks/stablizers that came with my Scamp are fairly useless on uneven ground. I use a BAL light trailer leveler that I absolutely love. It's available at RV stores and on Amazon. It's a bit heavy and awkward to pack, but I won't leave town without it.

The BAl Light that you purchased is doing what it is designed to do. "Level" your trailer using the tires which is how one should level a trailer. They are a popular product here for doing that job just as levelling blocks .

As has been said the rear STABILIZERS on the Scamp are NOT designed or meant to be used to level a trailer or jack it up in anyway - so yes they will indeed do a real poor job if one tries to use them for that.

[Darral T.]

I fought leveling my Scamp for over a year!! Finally, some camping friends of ours had some of the "LEGO" leveling pads they werent using. I got them for $15. VERY easy to back up on and have rarely needed more than 1 (apx 1" thick). These are the yellow ones with a solid top and not the kind where dirt/mud etc can go all the way through. I have a stack of 10 in a zip carrier bag. Very easy plus I can use them as a "ramp" to back up on if needed; place one back and/or front to set chocks on (they make a chock FOR locking on to these). I can also use the extras (instead of 2x6's) for placing under my stabilizers and front jack. This may sound funny...but they're bright yellow...hard to miss when you're packing up to leave camp. That CAN be an issue .

RV Leveling Blocks, 10 pack - North Canton Plastics D10-246 - Chocks & Levelers - Camping World

The BAL. I LOVE the concept and use my cordless drill to run my jack up and down which would be perfect for these. But for me, many of the campgrounds I stay in have concrete "patios". I park as close as I can to the patio as possible to keep from stepping down between the Scamp and patio (serious trip point). Therefore, the Bal would not work for me in those situations if needed on the door side.

I will reiterate something that's been repeated many times in these forums- DO NOT try to use the "Stabilizers" on the Scamps as JACKS. I use them only to stabilize and "tweak" my leveling bubble if necessary. Early on, I made "jacks" out of them and realize now how DANGEROUS that truly was! Dont do it!

[Byron Kinnaman]

Originally Posted by Bill Nolen

My 1978 Scamp 13 has them bolted to the rear bumper.

One of the jacks I questions as to whether or not it will stay up when traveling. So I plan on using two straps to ensure that my jacks stay up!

Bill

As to the jacks staying up while traveling. I've never is some 40,000+ miles had the stabilizers come down. I did have the inner part come out while traveling over a washboardy gravel road. Even that did not let them come down.

[Byron Kinnaman]

The first thing I do is level the trailer side to side. I use a BAL leveler makes for a fairly precise leveling. However others have been successful using some sort of wheel blocks, "lego" or wood. Which ever you find convenient.
After it's level side to side, I unhitch. Since I'm using the BAL wheel leveler it's already well chocked. If you're using wood or plastic under the wheels make sure your well chocked before unhooking.
Once unhooked I lower the front with the tongue jack until the nose is about a 1/2 bubble low. Then I deploy the stabilizers, if the slope of the pad makes the stabilizers a bit short "legos" are used to make of the difference.
Once deployed I jack up the tongue to level. Light fridge, grad a camp chair, and a cold one. I'm reading for some serious camping (watching the plants grow).

ONE MORE THING. My 2006 came from the factory with the stabilizers bolted onto the bumper, not welded. I've replaced one.

[Darral T.]

Yup...GOOD point I forgot to mention...ALWAYS "chock" before unhooking if you're not using something like the BAL. I've had some scary "shifts" in my rookie days! But one other precaution you have to watch especially with the lighter 13's... IF the tongue jack is on a slope AND you're not thoroughly chocked under BOTH wheels properly, I've seen the nose start to swing a bit...and that can be scary if you're not prepared.

One final precaution I've used over the years. I always unhitch from my "break-away" switch side. SHOULD something weird or freaky start to happen (and if I have time), I will grab the wire on the breakaway and stop the trailer! I HAVE tried that once and it worked. But the key is to not let the trailer get you in that dangerous situation. The only way to prevent it is proper chocking.

My wife still says... "Camping is not for the faint of heart!"

Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman

The first thing I do is level the trailer side to side. I use a BAL leveler makes for a fairly precise leveling. However others have been successful using some sort of wheel blocks, "lego" or wood. Which ever you find convenient.
After it's level side to side, I unhitch. Since I'm using the BAL wheel leveler it's already well chocked. If you're using wood or plastic under the wheels make sure your well chocked before unhooking.
Once unhooked I lower the front with the tongue jack until the nose is about a 1/2 bubble low. Then I deploy the stabilizers, if the slope of the pad makes the stabilizers a bit short "legos" are used to make of the difference.
Once deployed I jack up the tongue to level. Light fridge, grad a camp chair, and a cold one. I'm reading for some serious camping (watching the plants grow).

ONE MORE THING. My 2006 came from the factory with the stabilizers bolted onto the bumper, not welded. I've replaced one.

[Carol H]

Best investment I every made to make unhooking safer was to buy a small rubber trailer tongue wheel holder.... stops the wheel from travelling while unhooking if the trailers wheels for some reason are not as well chocked as one thought they were. It also helps to stop the wheel from sinking down into sand or gravel. If the later happens when camped on a steep sloop you might have hard time getting the ball back under the tongue to hook back up - been there done that! LOL

[Darral T.]

I like it!! Just looked at etrailer.com and do not see one.

Originally Posted by Carol H

Best investment I every made to make unhooking safer was to buy a small rubber trailer tongue wheel holder.... stops the wheel from travelling while unhooking if the trailers wheels for some reason are not as well chocked as one thought they were. It also helps to stop the wheel from sinking down into sand or gravel. If the later happens when camped on a steep sloop you might have hard time getting the ball back under the tongue to hook back up - been there done that! LOL

[Byron Kinnaman]

Originally Posted by Carol H

Best investment I every made to make unhooking safer was to buy a small rubber trailer tongue wheel holder.... stops the wheel from travelling while unhooking if the trailers wheels for some reason are not as well chocked as one thought they were. It also helps to stop the wheel from sinking down into sand or gravel. If the later happens when camped on a steep sloop you might have hard time getting the ball back under the tongue to hook back up - been there done that! LOL

Good idea if you have a wheel attached to the tongue jack. Many, including mine don't have a tongue wheel, I did for a while carry a pad with a did in the middle to capture the tongue jack foot. After I forgot to use it or didn't have enough space under the foot, I took it out of the trailer.
If you do have a tongue jack wheel something to keep it from moving is a good idea.

[Carol H]

Originally Posted by Darral T.

I like it!! Just looked at etrailer.com and do not see one.

I picked up the small rubber one some place years ago and can't recall where and have not seen one the same since. Most are a fair bit larger than the one I actually have, its a small square one so there is little chance of any wheel movement once its landed. Sorry Couldn't find a picture on my computer of it.

Do a search with Google using Trailer Tongue wheel chock you will get lots of returns - click on the image option to see all the different kinds out there. You can buy them from CampingWorld, EBay and Amazon etc.

[Carol H]

I BTW once had my trailer while parked on a seriously slopped camp site take a spin. The site was sloop front to back as well as side to side. If I am not mistaken I had the tongue wheel chock on it at the time and that may have actually have been what stopped the whole trailer from traveling on its own more than it did!

I use to use wood under the tire on one side to level the trailer as well as under the rear stabilizer jacks if the ground at the rear was sloped away. Switched to using more slip resistant plastic lego blocks after the trailer did a bit of a scary spin once when someone stepped out of the trailer and pushed off hard and the wet wood & tire slipped and the rear stabilizers coming off the wood as well ... only thing that stopped the whole thing from spinning further was the trailer came to rest against a large fallen log a few feet from the rear side of it. The tongue wheel chock no doubt also stopped the whole trailer from going backwards down a long slop on its own. Good news was the damage was only a minor scratch in the gelcoat.

[Bill Nolen]

This discussion has brought back some memories of my first RV days.

With my first Trailer RV I made two stair-step wood leveler's out of 2" by 8 or 10" boards. Boy, were they heavy!

But many times I was very glad to have them to use!

Today I looked in my junk pile, and there was one of them. 30-years old, but if I'd drive the nails back into the wood, it would be ready for duty!



However, i believe I'll toss it back into the junk pile...and just seek level parking sites!

Bill