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Old 02-06-2020, 10:45 PM   #21
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Name: bob
Trailer: Was A-Liner now 13f Scamp
Missouri
Posts: 3,209
gravel texture

bill we have that stuff I think its a brown texture and it will pack very well. I am taking my white stuff out this spring and putting the brown in there.

been 3 years since I put the white in and its still very loose wont pack at all

bob


Quote:
Originally Posted by thrifty bill View Post
I have used a variety of gravel. I discovered “road bond” late. This stuff packs. Meanwhile gravel I laid down ten years ago still hasn’t packed...
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Old 02-07-2020, 09:44 PM   #22
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Name: Michael
Trailer: Trillium Jubilee
Maine
Posts: 15
Local climate can make a big difference in what is needed for structure. Heavy wet snow loads can be tons that will collapse a lightweight metal frame (camper roof, too). I erected this one on a gravel pad with stone dust finish and anchored it to precast concrete parking stops. The frame supplier "engineered" the truss design for the snow and wind loads based on zip code. Seems to be working as planned.
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Old 02-08-2020, 09:01 AM   #23
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Name: bob
Trailer: Was A-Liner now 13f Scamp
Missouri
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your stone dust

guess I will have to call our local gravel company and get a load. still leaning to the brown gravel which packs down real good.

bob
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Old 02-08-2020, 09:33 AM   #24
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Name: Steve
Trailer: 2018, 21ft escape— 2019 Ram 1500 Laramie
NW Wisconsin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by k0wtz View Post
guess I will have to call our local gravel company and get a load. still leaning to the brown gravel which packs down real good.

bob
I would look at Class 5 fill . It is designed as a base under roads , driveways , patios and slabs . It drains and compacts well but it is more expensive than sand or gravel fill . Normally it is brown or brown / yellow in color .
If you are looking for a stone fill that compacts and drains well Trap Rock is another option . The last time I bought a ten yard load the price was approx 2 to 3 times that of clean sand fill .
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Old 02-08-2020, 09:40 AM   #25
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Name: bob
Trailer: Was A-Liner now 13f Scamp
Missouri
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brown and brown

steve I have used that brown on brown stuff on my long driveway for a base I think I put it in another garage and drove my mower on it a bunch to pack it down and its good now.

thanks

bob
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Old 06-30-2020, 12:15 PM   #26
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Name: Jeff
Trailer: In the market
Illinois
Posts: 15
Regs and requirements vary by location, but many years ago I did a 10x20 patio with my dad. We did all the work - subbase, tamping, joints, screed, float - except delivering the concrete. Truck backed up, poured it out, and away we went. It passed inspection and is still in use by the current owners.

The point being, you can do a pad yourself, but you need to do your homework ahead of time and have at least one helper. YMMV.
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Old 11-15-2020, 08:28 AM   #27
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Name: Bobby
Trailer: In the market
New Jersey
Posts: 17
Budget Casita Pad

I got a few estimates for a 25x25 concrete slab, and they ranged from $6600 to $8000. I am a firm believer in you get what you pay for, but this was too much for this retired guy's budget. Instead I laid down my own 2-layer pad for about $500 in materials and $80 to rent a power tamper for the day.

My situation is a bit unique, though... The previous homeowner must have installed some kind of brick pad, as we've been discovering bricks just below the surface when we'd try to dig. I decided why not take advantage of this firm ground "base" and simply add to it? First I killed the grass with an all natural mix of vinegar, espom salt and Dawn dishwashing liquid.

I altered the original size dimensions to 32x16 and ordered up 5 tons of road base (combo of gravel and quarry dust/"fines" that compacts nicely) and 6 tons of 3/8" red gravel. I was able to achieve a 2-3" base (compacted) along with an additional 3" of gravel. The resulting pad feels nice and solid (remember the ground was already firm to begin with, thanks to the subterranean brick road).

The job itself took about 2 days, a wheelbarrow, shovel and (fortunately) my front loader on my ol' tractor. I could have done the entire job with just a wheelbarrow, but add an extra day and more ibuprofen.

I do plan to add an overhead carport/roof at some point soon, and have budgeted $2000-$2500 for a prefab metal one.

But in the mean time (for the coming winter) I have a soft cover and a nice gravel pad that is level, drains well and looks pretty nice... all done on the cheap!
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Old 11-15-2020, 09:08 AM   #28
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Name: Dave
Trailer: 2013Escape 21
Iowa
Posts: 956
Nice Project. We used quarry limestone (one inch) and what is called 3/8 minus for compacted base many times when I was in parks management and development. We found that some kind of a border like 2X8 treated
Lumber on edge and staked with 1/2 inch rebar kept the edges true and prevented migration into the adjacent grass. When you get ready to put up a canopy and auger in your support holes, I would advise a concrete disc in the bottom of each hole to assist leveling and prevent uneven sinking in the future.
You are on your way.
Iowa Dave
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Old 11-16-2020, 04:52 PM   #29
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Name: Steve
Trailer: Scamp 13
California
Posts: 1,890
dont forget the sewer line for your own private dump station.
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Old 11-16-2020, 05:04 PM   #30
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Name: Bobby
Trailer: In the market
New Jersey
Posts: 17
Hah! Funny thing, there IS actually a nearby access point to our septic (if we ever need to dump black or gray tanks). We use a composting toilet, so our black water tank has never been used. I did install 30A service and we have water hookup, so it makes a nice guest cottage.
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