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08-05-2021, 04:55 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Name: K
Trailer: C
Iowa
Posts: 327
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Fridge cold when towing?
I've never used my Casita's refrigerator on 12V power. I've read various things online where people ran down their Casita's 12V battery using the refrigerator (DC mode) while towing. I want to keep some sandwich meat cold while travelling, should the Casita's fridge work for that? I was going to get a 12V refrigerator to keep in my truck, though that is probably overly redundant.
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08-05-2021, 05:33 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Name: Gordon
Trailer: 2015 Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
North Carolina
Posts: 5,155
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Hitch up the trailer as normal. Everything in the trailer turned off. Start the tow veh. Measure the voltage on the battery posts. Start the fridge on 12 VDC. Measure the voltage on the battery posts again with the fridge on. Report the results here.
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08-05-2021, 06:16 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1976, 1978, 1979, 1300 - 1977, and a 1973
Alberta
Posts: 6,926
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A good plan is to freeze large blocks of ice in your home freezer. Think milk jugs, partially full 2 liter pop bottles... whatever. What matters is how well it fits in your trailer fridge. 24 hrs. before you travel, have everything in the fridge, that is going in the fridge, and plug in your trailer to shore power at your house. That is, other than your ice blocks. Add them just before you leave.
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08-05-2021, 07:08 PM
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#4
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Junior Member
Name: Tim
Trailer: 71 Trillium 1300
Nova Scotia
Posts: 20
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I ended up with a 12 V DC cooler which I kept in the tow vehicle in the trunk. I used it like a normal cooler with ice to keep everything cool over night, the benefit is that while you're driving it's actively keeping cool.
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08-06-2021, 04:12 AM
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#5
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Member
Name: Mike
Trailer: None currently
Virginia
Posts: 44
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I had a trailer where the fridge was only two way (no 12VDC) and wouldn’t stay lit on propane while driving. For longer driving trips, I would freeze two of the large blue ice packs ahead of time and put them in the top of the fridge while driving. At night I would fire up the propane on the fridge and move the ice packs to the freezer. The next morning, I would put them back in the top of the fridge and repeat. Worked well and kept fridge temps under control. Obviously if stopped for sightseeing or more than just fuel or bathroom, I would park level and fire up the propane for the fridge.
-Mike
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08-06-2021, 10:24 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Name: Jann
Trailer: Casita
Colorado
Posts: 1,307
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whoot
I've never used my Casita's refrigerator on 12V power. I've read various things online where people ran down their Casita's 12V battery using the refrigerator (DC mode) while towing. I want to keep some sandwich meat cold while travelling, should the Casita's fridge work for that? I was going to get a 12V refrigerator to keep in my truck, though that is probably overly redundant.
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We drive with the fridge on propane. If it was so dangerous they wouldn't make it so you could do that. There are safety devices on propane tanks. Most RV'ers run with propane on. Just shut off all appliances before entering gas pump areas. Spark igniters do just that. Ignite. Gas fumes ignite. I've seen several RV's and trailers wreck and never have seen one burn because of the fridge being on yet. I know it happens but I've seen more cars and trucks burn from fuel problems, hot tires, etc. than RV's from refrigerators being on and there's almost as many RV's on the roads as cars these days. Our 12V runs down our battery while driving so we don't use the 12V except for trips to the gas stations from a campground. After fueling we pull out and put it on propane.
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08-06-2021, 10:45 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Name: Ed
Trailer: Casita 17 ft SD
Colorado
Posts: 206
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Frig on 12V
Quote:
Originally Posted by gordon2
Hitch up the trailer as normal. Everything in the trailer turned off. Start the tow veh. Measure the voltage on the battery posts. Start the fridge on 12 VDC. Measure the voltage on the battery posts again with the fridge on. Report the results here.
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I always use 12v while driving. I plug the frig into AC the day before we travel to get it cooled down. The key is the size of the wiring on the tow vehicle. If you do as Gordon suggests, the voltage at the battery posts will be around 13.2v. If it is less the 12.6v your tow vehicle wiring is not done correctly and the trailer battery will be dead when you arrive at your destination.
I am not willing to except the liability of running down the road and into a gas station with an open gas flame.
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08-06-2021, 10:54 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Name: Steven
Trailer: '79 Boler
on Ontario
Posts: 253
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Consider a 12V solar package. It can safely supply the trailer battery while you travel so it stays fully charged and cooling your frig at the same time.
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08-07-2021, 07:50 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Name: Myron
Trailer: Escape
New Mexico
Posts: 987
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Wondering if a 190 watt solar panel on my roof is adequate to run my RM8551 on battery and keep it cool driving all day.
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08-07-2021, 08:54 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Name: Steven
Trailer: '79 Boler
on Ontario
Posts: 253
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I do it with a single 100watt panel on an old original RM211...
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08-07-2021, 03:46 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Name: Elliott
Trailer: Bigfoot
Everywhere
Posts: 462
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The RM8551's pretty small. Dometic's site says it needs 130W on 12V power, so a 190W panel is probably going to be just enough to keep it going most of the time. Absorption fridges aren't very powerful, so I'd expect it to have to run 70-100% of the time. It'll also get some power through the tow vehicle, so overall I bet it'll do. On a good sunny day you may gain battery power, and on an overcast day it'll have a net draw of about 2-6A.
Personally I tend to switch between electric and propane depending on battery charge levels, but when I fill up for gas I always pull over and switch the fridge to electric first.
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08-07-2021, 07:55 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Name: John
Trailer: Roamer 1
Smith Valley, Nevada
Posts: 2,879
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MyronL
Wondering if a 190 watt solar panel on my roof is adequate to run my RM8551 on battery and keep it cool driving all day.
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You'll only be getting about 85% of the collectors rated output with panels sitting flat on the roof. And only then in perfectly clear weather, in the middle of the day. And, of course, nothing at night. So, while driving "all day" on solar, you may be disappointed in what you actually get.
And, of course, there are more needs for power in the trailer than just the fridge. It's so nice to arrive at your camp spot with fully charged batteries. Especially if you arrive at night, when you will need the batteries for lighting and possibly heat.
This goes back to what I have been saying about using an Anderson plug to charge while driving. Count on the solar more when camping. Count on charging from the tow vehicle more when towing.
__________________
I only exaggerate enough to compensate for being taken with a grain of salt.
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08-07-2021, 08:08 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Name: K
Trailer: C
Iowa
Posts: 327
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I bought a small 20qt F40CrTMP refrigerator, I will keep it in my car while driving, and move it to the Casita while sleeping. The Casita's power will be detatched from the truck overnight, so it will not be using the truck's battery. The refrigerator would use the Casita's 12v battery while I was sleeping. In the morning, I will move the refrigerator back to the truck. I got this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G132X2F
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08-11-2021, 03:33 PM
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#14
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Member
Name: Ed
Trailer: Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe
Washington
Posts: 60
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When we bought our Casita in 2010, we got by default a 3 way reefer which of course has dc. We were warned by our local RV store not to use dc because it WILL DRAIN YOUR TV BATTERY. Their words, not mine. It may be as innocuous as stopping for a bite to eat at a restaurant. If your fridge runs long enough (think hot weather) with your 7 pin harness plugged in, you run the risk of not starting your TV. Additionally, your TV alternator may well not be able to recharge your coach battery because of the distance from alternator to the back of your Casita, a distance of around 28 feet for us. The resistance of your charging cable is what causes this.
We run our fridge on propane while on trips except where ac is available at campsites. We never turn our fridge off except for ferry rides because of Coast Guard regulations. If you think about it, the fridge is well behind your tv's fuel filler neck if like ours, it is on the driver side of the vehicle and probably 12 ft away and on the opposite side of the tv.
I know you didn't ask about this, but we also keep a yeti cooler in the cab of our truck with a frozen 1 gallon jug of water that lasts about 5 days. We make two gallon bags of ice cubes to use for iced drinks before the trip. With moderate ambient temps, this setup can easily last a long weekend with no trips to the store for ice or to replace spoiled food.
I recommend you follow the Yeti instructions and pre-cool your ice chest no matter what the brand is and don't drain the ice melt until it starts to cause your chilled items to float in the water. The premise is an ice chest stays cool longer if it is full. The same goes for your fridge. The more full it is the easier it is to keep cold.
Everyone does things different. What works for me may not work for you and vice versa, so try things out, but what ever you do, don't run your fridge on dc.
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08-11-2021, 03:53 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Name: K
Trailer: C
Iowa
Posts: 327
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Casita Ed
When we bought our Casita in 2010, we got by default a 3 way reefer which of course has dc. We were warned by our local RV store not to use dc because it WILL DRAIN YOUR TV BATTERY. Their words, not mine. It may be as innocuous as stopping for a bite to eat at a restaurant. If your fridge runs long enough (think hot weather) with your 7 pin harness plugged in, you run the risk of not starting your TV. Additionally, your TV alternator may well not be able to recharge your coach battery because of the distance from alternator to the back of your Casita, a distance of around 28 feet for us. The resistance of your charging cable is what causes this.
We run our fridge on propane while on trips except where ac is available at campsites. We never turn our fridge off except for ferry rides because of Coast Guard regulations. If you think about it, the fridge is well behind your tv's fuel filler neck if like ours, it is on the driver side of the vehicle and probably 12 ft away and on the opposite side of the tv.
I know you didn't ask about this, but we also keep a yeti cooler in the cab of our truck with a frozen 1 gallon jug of water that lasts about 5 days. We make two gallon bags of ice cubes to use for iced drinks before the trip. With moderate ambient temps, this setup can easily last a long weekend with no trips to the store for ice or to replace spoiled food.
I recommend you follow the Yeti instructions and pre-cool your ice chest no matter what the brand is and don't drain the ice melt until it starts to cause your chilled items to float in the water. The premise is an ice chest stays cool longer if it is full. The same goes for your fridge. The more full it is the easier it is to keep cold.
Everyone does things different. What works for me may not work for you and vice versa, so try things out, but what ever you do, don't run your fridge on dc.
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I have to find out exactly how the Casita's fridge works. A friend says it runs on propane or AC, and only uses to DC to light the propane. He has a different RV, so is probably wrong. He said the propane would keep the Casita's fridge cold while towing and when parked at a rest-stop (but I should disconnect the trailer from TV). I thought I read somewhere that you should never use propane while actively towing.
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08-11-2021, 04:11 PM
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#16
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Member
Name: Ed
Trailer: Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe
Washington
Posts: 60
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Forums make it difficult to figure out what works and what doesn't because everyone has a different opinion. Each one of us on the forum thinks of ourselves as experts
I am sure there are those out there saying you shouldn't run your fridge on propane while towing, but so many of us do just that. Maybe we are all wrong.
If you still have doubts, check the owners manual for info like that. I would think they would discourage running the fridge while towing just as a cya and to defend against lawsuits.
We have been RV'ing since 1989 with a fridge and have always run the fridge underway.
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08-11-2021, 04:16 PM
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#17
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Member
Name: Ed
Trailer: Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe
Washington
Posts: 60
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Yes, you are hearing correctly that the fridge uses dc when running on propane. The voltage draw is slight and only used to ignite the flame and run the electronics. Running strictly on dc is different. In our Casita, the fridge is a 3 way ac/dc/propane. The dc replaces the ac, but in order to do that it requires more dc current than when running on propane.
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08-11-2021, 04:18 PM
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#18
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Member
Name: Ed
Trailer: Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe
Washington
Posts: 60
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Last point and my opinion is you do not need to disconnect trailer when using fridge on propane when you stop along the way on a trip. Voltage draw in those situations is very low.
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08-11-2021, 04:41 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1976, 1978, 1979, 1300 - 1977, and a 1973
Alberta
Posts: 6,926
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Casita Ed
Last point and my opinion is you do not need to disconnect trailer when using fridge on propane when you stop along the way on a trip. Voltage draw in those situations is very low.
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Ed, I am not trying to be a jerk, but it is current (or power) draw, not voltage draw. Sorry for being so anal.
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08-11-2021, 05:03 PM
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#20
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Member
Name: Ed
Trailer: Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe
Washington
Posts: 60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Tilston
Ed, I am not trying to be a jerk, but it is current (or power) draw, not voltage draw. Sorry for being so anal.
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Sorry, I did not mean to offend. I was just trying to fully answer your question after rereading it. My background: I am a retired field tech who repaired mechanical/electrical/electronic printing equipment and have a good working knowledge of same.
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