2013 scamp wheel bearing removal - Fiberglass RV
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Old 11-20-2018, 06:19 PM   #1
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Name: Jack
Trailer: Scamp 13
Massachusetts
Posts: 257
Cool 2013 scamp wheel bearing removal

Looking for the proper procedure to remove the wheel bearings on my 2018 scamp 13 for cleaning and re-greasing. Put 4000 miles on it and want to

re-grease them before heading out on a new long trip.


Thanks

Jack
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Old 11-20-2018, 07:14 PM   #2
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Name: JD
Trailer: Scamp 16 Modified (BIGLY)
Florida
Posts: 2,445
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lockman View Post
Looking for the proper procedure to remove the wheel bearings on my 2018 scamp 13 for cleaning and re-greasing. Put 4000 miles on it and want to

re-grease them before heading out on a new long trip.


Thanks

Jack
WHY?

In my opinion all you will be doing at this point is adding another point of failure.
Occasionally feel the hubs when you stop and they should be just a little over ambient temp unless you have been on the brakes much.
When you regrease you will notice that the bearings run hotter until the excess grease is pushed out of the bearing races.
When this is done the bearings will cool down and be good for a long time.
Perhaps once a year is plenty, but check the temps!
Buy gas check hub temps, repeat.
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Old 11-20-2018, 07:56 PM   #3
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Name: Jack
Trailer: Scamp 13
Massachusetts
Posts: 257
Thanks JD,


Was just following Scamp procedures. Say's to add couple of pumps of grease at 5k miles (these are EZ lube axles. Since I will be on road at that point thought it might be a good idea to do it before I left on trip.



Just wanted to know the proper procedure when that time comes to inspect and re-pack later on as well.


Jack
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Old 11-20-2018, 08:14 PM   #4
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Name: JD
Trailer: Scamp 16 Modified (BIGLY)
Florida
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Jack,
I have EZ Lube hubs as well and if you want to add a little grease then just follow the instructions from EZ lube and jack the tire off the ground and on a warm day with a grease gun that has been inside and warm pull the rubber plug and put a few pumps into the hub.
If you want you can slowly add grease while turning the hub until you see some coming out.
Pump slowly as if you try to go too fast you might blow out the seal on the back side.
With 4000 miles the most likely problem would be if the factory didn't get enough grease in the hub and if that were the problem you would have "felt" the hotter hub when you felt them as you added gas.
Comparing the sides is a sure fire check as if one is significantly warmer than the other (and you haven't regreased the hubs) that would be a warning sign.
I feel the tires and hubs after 20 - 50 miles on the first of the day and then with each fill up.
The best predictor of problem free future is a problem free past. (While checking for potential problems.
But then I am a believer in benign neglect so as to not install new problems where none currently exists.
Others don't agree with me and that's OK
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Old 11-20-2018, 08:20 PM   #5
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Name: Jack
Trailer: Scamp 13
Massachusetts
Posts: 257
Thanks for the info JD,



Have only had this since Sept, and wanted to make sure I keep it properly maintained.



Jack
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Old 11-20-2018, 09:17 PM   #6
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Name: Shelby
Trailer: Casita SD
Tennessee
Posts: 1,109
Here is the Dexter link Service Manuals
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Old 11-21-2018, 08:00 AM   #7
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Name: JD
Trailer: Scamp 16 Modified (BIGLY)
Florida
Posts: 2,445
Here is a link the the Lippert axles as I think that currently Scamp is installing them on their new trailers.

https://www.lci1.com/assets/content/...CD_0001412.pdf

They include very good maintenance procedures etc and is wide ranging in it'sinformation about trailer axles, brakes wiring etc.
Ut makes good reading

They suggest 36,000 miles or 12 months service interval.

I saw one comment on the board(s) that I thought was good and that was to grease the EZ Lube spindles after a short run (or long for that matter) where the grease in the hub is warm. This would help with the flow of grease through the hub especially if the grease gun you use it also warm.

The main risk with the EZ lube hubs is building up enough pressure pumping in the new grease to push past the rear grease seal and contaminating the brake system.

Personally I think that with the new greases that are much more stable the interval is too short, but the manufacturer will err on the side of caution.

I have seen bearing failure in the case of a poorly greased 500 hp pump. The outboard bearing failed and thus the pump ($$$$). The inboard bearing was OK and when we disassembled the pump we found one small dab of grease on the bearing very very little if any in the grease cavity.
One dab of grease the difference. The cost of repair was $35,000 which when shown the pictures of the undamaged bearing and how little grease was installed was paid by the manufacturer.
Not suggesting one dab is enough, but...
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Old 11-21-2018, 08:31 AM   #8
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Name: Jack
Trailer: Scamp 13
Massachusetts
Posts: 257
Thanks Shelby & JD. I'll check with Scamp to see which axles were installed on my unit. The owners manual does not really state such. I told Scamp's parts dept. that their dvd service manual is out of date and needs to be updated using USB hardware.



Both of those links have great info on servicing in general and should be a great source of info.
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Old 11-21-2018, 10:30 AM   #9
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Name: Gordon
Trailer: 2015 Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
North Carolina
Posts: 5,156
I agree that its preferable to relying on ezlube as the only maintenance.

There are a million internet sites that describe how to clean and repack the bearings. Some of them are even good. But not all.. I still see people reusing the cotter pin, including eTrailer. It cost 20 cents and will eventually break from metal fatigue.. replace it every time! I would watch a bunch of videos then add a few ounces of common sense, like not reusing a critical part that cost a few pennies.
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