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05-13-2014, 09:59 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
Name: Jan
Trailer: Boler 1978
Ontario
Posts: 15
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7-way cable assembly length
Well, it's that time of year and this will find me beavering away getting the Boler ready for another season.
One of the things I need to do this year is replace the 7-way cable assembly. Several prior owners performed botched splicing jobs on the cable assembly and it looks like something cooked up by Chef Boy-ar-Dee. This cable assembly has to be replaced and was wondering how long the replacement cable assembly should be.
The cable assembly goes from the terminal block inside of our 1978 13 ft Boler, located at the kitchen cabinet, to the connector on the Tow vehicle.
How much extra length will I need from the A-frame coupler to the vehicle end connector socket to prevent damaging the cable assembly during turns and not have it too long?
I have searched the forums and can't find any specifics.
Thanks in advance and appreciate any advice you may have.
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05-13-2014, 10:40 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Name: Frank
Trailer: Casita
California
Posts: 260
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It can never be too long and can always be too short!
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05-13-2014, 10:43 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 719
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I have a Casita and found most available cables are 6 foot long. That was not enough to replace it all from inside the trailer to the 7 pin connector on my TV.
I found a 8' Bergman cable online and cut off a foot and in addition the Bergman has contacts on both sides of each connections unlike the Hopins extensions available from Wal-Mart and others.
Etrailer has Bergman and Hopkins and 8-10 foot ones and the Better Bergman ones are priced more but worth it.
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05-13-2014, 11:10 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1976, 1978, 1979, 1300 - 1977, and a 1973
Alberta
Posts: 6,808
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Princess auto sells a 7 conductor 12 gauge trailer cable by the foot. I guessed at 10'. I can cut off the excess.
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05-13-2014, 12:05 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Name: Frank
Trailer: 2012 ParkLiner #006
New York
Posts: 2,273
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I would guess 15' and buy 20'. I just moved my battery to the tongue from under the bed (way in the back) in our ParkLiner, which is not much longer than your Boler, if at all. I measured outside with a measuring tape, and figured 15' would do it. It did, but just barely. It would never have worked for the 7 pin plug. So if it was me, I would do What Dave suggests, but it buy the foot, and get 20'. Then you can't avoid a nice clean factory look!
Frank
__________________
2012 ParkLiner #006
2013 4wd 4 door F150 3.5L Ecoboost with 9200# tow package
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05-13-2014, 12:34 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1976, 1978, 1979, 1300 - 1977, and a 1973
Alberta
Posts: 6,808
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I am expecting to just go from the junction box on the front road side of the trailer, through the bottom of the trailer, to the plug. Since the distance is no more then 6' to the ball from that point, the extra 4' should cover the stripped length at the JB, and provide enough to reach the tow vehicle. The wire to the battery on the tongue is connected in the same JB.
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05-14-2014, 05:33 AM
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#7
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Junior Member
Name: Jan
Trailer: Boler 1978
Ontario
Posts: 15
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Thanks everyone for the input. To be exact, I could back the TV to the A-frame coupler at the angle simulating a hard right turn until the steering gear hits the wheel stops. The TV electrical connector is at the left side of the trailer hitch then add a few inches to the length of the cable assembly just to prevent unintended disconnection.
Soon as I do this, I will stumble across a "rule-of-thumb" from the web the RV technicians use to judge these things.
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05-14-2014, 07:14 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Trailer: Class A Motorhome
Posts: 7,912
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Go with some extra length. If, by chance, your plug drops out and the cord is damaged, you will wind up having to replace the entire cord rather than just cutting off the damaged part. Mfg.s tend to make them as short as possible because it saves $$$$
I have almost 2 extra feet on mine and I can just loop it around the jack or the propane tank.
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05-14-2014, 07:31 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Name: Dave W
Trailer: Escape 19 and Escape 15B
Alberta
Posts: 523
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Miller
Go with some extra length. If, by chance, your plug drops out and the cord is damaged, you will wind up having to replace the entire cord rather than just cutting off the damaged part. Mfg.s tend to make them as short as possible because it saves $$$$
I have almost 2 extra feet on mine and I can just loop it around the jack or the propane tank.
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ditto!
__________________
Dave W - 2013 Escape 19', 2013 Escape 15B and 2011 Toyota FJ Cruiser
"You've got to be very careful if you don't know where you are going, because you might not get there." - Yogi Berra
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05-14-2014, 11:14 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Name: Steve
Trailer: Scamp 13
California
Posts: 1,890
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If the new cables are too short you can put in a new junction box for the 7 pin, splicing the old cable with the new. If you have a place to put it inside close to the front it can make future work easier. Usually its the outside connector and exposed wiring going bad where the wiring inside is still very nice.
Wiring Junction Box Accessories and Parts | etrailer.com
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05-14-2014, 11:18 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Name: Frank
Trailer: 2012 ParkLiner #006
New York
Posts: 2,273
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevebaz
If the new cables are too short you can put in a new junction box for the 7 pin, splicing the old cable with the new. If you have a place to put it inside close to the front it can make future work easier. Usually its the outside connector and exposed wiring going bad where the wiring inside is still very nice.
Wiring Junction Box Accessories and Parts | etrailer.com
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Excellent idea!
Frank
__________________
2012 ParkLiner #006
2013 4wd 4 door F150 3.5L Ecoboost with 9200# tow package
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