Advisibility of using weight distribution hitch: pros and cons

[Francesca Knowles]

You're in good shape so long as you understand that "adding to the tongue weight" is key- while those add-ons may improve handling, they do not change/raise the weight limit at the vehicle hitch, as allowed by your vehicle manufacturer.

Francesca

[David Tilston]

The first time I had this discussion was on this thread:
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...ium-49133.html
On page 5 of the thread, there is a picture of a Olds Tornado that is connected to a boat trailer using a weight distribution hitch. The funny thing is that they took the rear wheels off the car and the axle is still suspended in the air. When you look at is that way, you can see that the highest stress point is now right at the hitch. Imagine what the load is on the front axle of the car.

[Francesca Knowles]

I looked at your thread just now (briefly)- didn't get much beyond the...gulp...seven people you talk about carrying...is that still the number???

Are you sure that when towing you're not going to seriously exceed the gross weight limit of the tow vehicle, with the add-ons and all?

You might do the worksheet at the page in my signature below...

Francesca

[rgrugg]

When we picked up our Egg Camper from the factory we were told that, under no circumstances, should we use a weight distributing hitch. Seems to me that it would be a good idea not to use one with other molded trailers.

[David Tilston]

Francesca, Thank you for your concern. Two of my kids are less then 50 lbs. Two more are about 100 lbs. The oldest child is 18 and about 150 lbs. So, while the number of people is high, the weight is more like four adults. With most of the cargo in the trailer, we are OK.
We took the trailer to Vancouver Island this summer. Due to me not tightening the lug nuts on the trailer enough, the trailer almost lost a wheel. It was swaying all over the road. While the tail was waging the dog, the van never felt out of control.

[Glenn Baglo]

Originally Posted by rgrugg

When we picked up our Egg Camper from the factory we were told that, under no circumstances, should we use a weight distributing hitch. Seems to me that it would be a good idea not to use one with other molded trailers.

Well, Escape recommends a WDH with front-wheel-drive vehicles in particular. So, I would suggest it would be a good idea to discuss this with the factory, prior to buying the trailer.
Did Egg Camper rep give you any reasons for the position?

[Francesca Knowles]

It would be interesting to find out what revisions Escape made to the Trillium platform frame they started with- especially since Trillium Tom cautions against a wdh in the case of his units.

Is Escape on fatter channel maybe???

Francesca

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by rgrugg

When we picked up our Egg Camper from the factory we were told that, under no circumstances, should we use a weight distributing hitch. Seems to me that it would be a good idea not to use one with other molded trailers.

The body construction - moulded fiberglass for any trailer in this forum's subject area - has nothing to do with the trailer's frame structure, so the suitabilty of one model's frame for WDH use has nothing to do with an unrelated model's frame.

Originally Posted by Glenn Baglo

Well, Escape recommends a WDH with front-wheel-drive vehicles in particular. So, I would suggest it would be a good idea to discuss this with the factory, prior to buying the trailer.

I agree... get trailer-specific recommendations from the trailer's manufacturer (if available).

Originally Posted by Francesca Knowles

It would be interesting to find out what revisions Escape made to the Trillium platform frame they started with- especially since Trillium Tom cautions against a wdh in the case of his units.

Is Escape on fatter channel maybe???

I was told at the Escape factory that the inspiration for the Escape design was more specifically the Surfside, but yes, that's in the Trillium family.

All of the Trillium family designs seem to have a vaguely similar design: stepped up at the back by overlapping rails, generally using the main frame rails continued to form an A-frame tongue, and usually bent up at the base of the tongue to reach the desired coupling height. The details are important, and they vary greatly; for instance, some Escapes have no bend upward in the tongue, and all Escape bends that I have seen (horizontal to form the "A" or vertical to change height) are much better fabricated than the original Trillium frame bends.

Escape frames - and the Outback and Trillium frames I've seen - are rectangular tube (not channel), but of course they vary in dimensions (including wall thickness). In a 21' Escape Update, Reace mentioned that this new largest model will have a 2"x4" box steel frame (the same as my 17' Boler).

Another potential factor is that the shorter the distance from tug rear axle to trailer axle, the greater the share of load transferred to the trailer. With TrilliumRV making only a 13' model, and Escape starting with 17' (although now offering 15' and even 13'), the two companies might have different perspectives on the risk of excessive load transfer.

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by Francesca Knowles

It would be interesting to find out what revisions Escape made to the Trillium platform frame they started with- especially since Trillium Tom cautions against a wdh in the case of his units.

Is Escape on fatter channel maybe???

Francesca

I gotta say, Francesca. You really have me befuddled with all the talk you do of Escape being nothing more than a newer Trillium. There are definite design influences to be certain, but the Escape was built from the ground up. I have talked with Reace lots about this, and he has shared his start-up story at rallies, and you can rest assured that the frames are independently designed and built.

That said, I tow my Escape 19 with my Pilot, and do not use a WDH. Only on rough gravel uphills have I ever had a bit of an issue with slippage, though nothing that worried me at all. The later model Pilot ('09 and up) come equipped to tow with the hitch being standard, and nice stiff rear ends. I have the touring model that was just plug n' play.

[Ice-breaker]

Obviously Reace at Escape feels comfortable having his clients use a WDH for towing their trailers; otherwise they would not sell WDH's as an option with a new Escape.

[Francesca Knowles]

Originally Posted by Jim Bennett

I gotta say, Francesca. You really have me befuddled with all the talk you do of Escape being nothing more than a newer Trillium.

Since when have I said anything but that the Escape is based on the Trillium???

That's perfectly obvious to anyone that's ever seen them...is this considered to be some kind of a slander???

There's even a video out there featuring a fellow being interviewed who goes on at some length about going to the Escape factory and being shown through a gutted 4500 while Reace explained where he planned to put things etc...

If anyone's befuddled here, it sure isn't me!

We now return you to the actual topic of this thread, whatever that was...

Francesca

[RogerDat]

Seems to me the use of a WDH is to correct a problem. Too much trailer behind too little TV.

If the given TV a Rav4 has a known soft rear end, the suspension is what needs to be addressed. Air bags seem a good choice.

If the trailer would put itself nose down and the TV nose up in normal operation it's not a good arrangement in the first place. As to the trailer nose diving on braking I would think electric trailer brakes and a good controller would address that better than a WDH and with no risk to the frame.

I suppose as Brian points out there may be wheel base configurations of TV and trailer where a WDH would be appropriate to better distribute the load of a trailer within the towing capacity of the TV.

[cpaharley2008]

Really all we know to be true, is what our owner's manual or manufacturer tells us.
The use of any w/d set up is to enable a safer towing experience, if it is needed. It is not always needed except where the trailer and tug are not weight compatible. I went shopping at Colonial Airstream several years ago and was told they would not sell me an airstream without a w/d set up regardless of my tow vehicle. I thought that was a little condescending of the dealer and did not purchase one. Your tow vehicle and hitch determines what you can safely tow, not your trailer. My 7 in 4 thread can attest to that statement. That said, the w/d will make that combination a more enjoyable one if it is not.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by RogerDat

Seems to me the use of a WDH is to correct a problem. Too much trailer behind too little TV.

How about "too little rear axle capacity"?
What a WDH primarily does is redistribute load from the rear axle to the other axles.

Originally Posted by RogerDat

If the given TV a Rav4 has a known soft rear end, the suspension is what needs to be addressed. Air bags seem a good choice.

I agree that if (with the trailer, passengers, and cargo in the tug) the rear axle is still within its capacity - and the front to rear axle load distribution is suitable - then air-boosting the springs is a sound approach. That's what I did.

Originally Posted by RogerDat

If the trailer would put itself nose down ...

The nose up-or-down attitude can be set simply by changing the tow ball height (such as with a different or adjustable ball mount); a WDH isn't needed for this purpose.

[RogerDat]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

How about "too little rear axle capacity"?
What a WDH primarily does is redistribute load from the rear axle to the other axles.....

.....The nose up-or-down attitude can be set simply by changing the tow ball height (such as with a different or adjustable ball mount); a WDH isn't needed for this purpose.

Too little rear axle capacity is what makes the TV "too little TV" for "Too much trailer". I guess axle capacity would be more specific.

Ball height is not a solution if the trailer is nose down and the TV is nose up due to rear axle capacity.

If properly loaded trailer is pushing the rear of TV down too far for TV to ride level BUT trailer is still under the overall TV tow capacity then the ball height won't fix it.

You might get things level with rear suspension upgrade (air bags) or possibly with WD hitch. But the going with the hitch option I think requires some trusted expert advice given the conditions outlined above where by weight it should be OK but it's not.

One needs to consider the frame strength and axle distances you mentioned in prev. post to determine if WD hitch will solve problem in a safe manner or not.

[David Tilston]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

With TrilliumRV making only a 13' model

Not to split hairs, but TrilliumRV makes a 15' 4500, (1500) as well as the 13' 1300. It was the 15' unit that Tom Young was commenting on. Kinda a moot point, since the coupler to axle length is the same on both.

[MC1]

Originally Posted by RogerDat

Seems to me the use of a WDH is to correct a problem. Too much trailer behind too little TV.

The WDH is a safety component.

It restores weight to the vehicles front axle to maintain steering stability. At the same time it reduces excess weight from the rear axle.

Depending on the design it provides a certain amount of stability by firming up the piviot point at the ball. It's all goodness provided the vehicle and trailer are able to deal with the stresses.

Our car/trailer combination uses a Reese. Wouldn't leave home without it.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by MC1

The WDH is a safety component.

Then are you saying that almost every commercial trailer is unsafe? WD is only used on "light" trailers (typically up to about 10,000 lb), and even then it would be pretty surprising to see a few tons of construction equipment behind a "one ton" or slightly bigger (truck class 3 to 5) on a trailer with a WDH. WD is mostly a recreational gadget... as others have said, for inadequate tugs.

[Bob Miller]

Somehow I don't think that about 95% of those in the FGRV group would want a Commercial tractor type vehicle for the occasional use as a tow vehicle and more common use as daily transportation just to not need a WD Hitch. If that were the case there wouldn't be much of a market for towables over about 15' in length.

As I have mentioned, we have a GMC Yukon that we use to tow a 3500+ lb Coleman 171 with and on the occasions when I have towed it without the spring bars in place I can feel the difference in directional stability. Having a WD hitch makes towing with "Family" vehicles much more enoyable and safer.

[Jared J]

Even if you can use a wd hitch, I would still do airbags on a vehicle known to sag bad. Using a wd to fix that is a bandaid, and putting a lot of stress on things.

I've never found a need for wd hitches myself, even with heavy towing. Campers do make it harder to load them properly, though.