Axle/Wheel Bearings/Seals

[Butsky]

We shall be driving 3.5 hours to pick up our garage queen Boler. The widow doesn`t know the size, but what diameter axle does an early 70`s Boler use? I want to pick up parts at Canadian Tire before heading out. Original axle and wheel hubs. Are they 1" axles or what else could they be? 1 3/8",1.50"? Thanks.

[floyd]

Originally Posted by Butsky

We shall be driving 3.5 hours to pick up our garage queen Boler. The widow doesn`t know the size, but what diameter axle does an early 70`s Boler use? I want to pick up parts at Canadian Tire before heading out. Original axle and wheel hubs. Are they 1" axles or what else could they be? 1 3/8",1.50"? Thanks.

I don't claim to know Boler as well as its clones but the axles from that era on 13s were usually 1" straight spindles using the same bearing in and out.
The hubs were common, so if you buy a blister pack with bearings and seals included you will almost certainly have the right parts.
be sure and clean ALL the old grease from the spindles and the hub and then repack with a lithium based grease.
I say this because forty years ago there were several types of axle grease on the market and they are NOT compatible with one another.
Knock your seals out from the inside by striking the inside bearing using a piece of good wood, maybe a piece of broom handle. This will save the old seal in case you buy the wrong one. Also inspect your old bearings for wear or spalling in case you need them. If not you can clean them, repack them and put them in an old peanut butter jar along with the old seals and carry them as spares.
Sometime in the late eighties or early nineties 1" spindles were replaced on the market with I-1/16" spindles so if your Boler has a newer axle it may be 1-1/16"
If it is a 5 lug it is not original and is likely 1-1/16" ,if it is a 4 lug it is most likely 1".
More info might yield better advice but this all likely.

[Butsky]

Thank you so much for your info!
This Boler was purchased used in 1986 by this old couple, and was sitting in their garage for the past 15 or 16 years because of health issues. The widow knows nothing of any upgrades or changes. As I recall when we viewed it a few weeks ago, it had 5-bolt hubs. So you figure they have been changed and are larger than 1" spindles? I could buy two size kits and bring one set back, I suppose. I do like you approach on careful re and re of hub seals, too! Much to ponder.

[floyd]

Originally Posted by Butsky

Thank you so much for your info!
This Boler was purchased used in 1986 by this old couple, and was sitting in their garage for the past 15 or 16 years because of health issues. The widow knows nothing of any upgrades or changes. As I recall when we viewed it a few weeks ago, it had 5-bolt hubs. So you figure they have been changed and are larger than 1" spindles? I could buy two size kits and bring one set back, I suppose. I do like you approach on careful re and re of hub seals, too! Much to ponder.

I'm sure it is one or the other , and returns in the package are pretty easy nowadays.
Thing is... you may not need new bearings... just inspect, repack and go
if there is no spalling or broken parts. Not sure what axle your Boler came with most of that genre were 1200 pound axles with 4 lug wheels and 1" spindles.
I have reused wheel bearings on 50 year old cars which sat for decades.
I always carry a retrieval kit with about everything I might need and
I do not recommend it, but I once towed an old Scamp home 600 miles with filthy bearings and no dust caps or seals....
(notice the green nitrogen cap!)

[Jack L]

I would be concerned about the condition of the tires too.

[floyd]

Originally Posted by Jack L

I would be concerned about the condition of the tires too.

My retrieval kit contains a spare wheel and tire(often two when it seems necessary)
It also contains grease , bearings , a magnetic taillight kit, wire and connectors, duct tape, bungee cords, rope, little buddy heater, an air mattress, small air compressor, tire plug kit, spare bulbs, 5X7 plastic tarp, a jack and tire tool and a dozen other items, just in case.
So far the Harbor freight towing taillight kit has been most useful, and the little air compressor.
I have never had to change a tire to get a trailer home but it is important to check them
Bringing our own bedding has been great too, to insure a clean and comfortable spot to sleep.

[Butsky]

Just a thought but what about bearing buddies? Good idea? Hope they would not interfere with baby moon hub caps!!!

[The Minimalist]

Originally Posted by Butsky

Just a thought but what about bearing buddies? Good idea? Hope they would not interfere with baby moon hub caps!!!

Bearing Buddies won't do you any good. They are intended for boat trailers and provide positive pressure on the grease to prevent water intrusion and wash out.

Do check the tires. Even stored inside, if it's been 16 years, it's time to change them.

Good luck on your retrieval.

[Butsky]

Thanks for the advice. I just two new ST175/80-R13 tires about one hour ago from my Canadian Tire store! 1/2 price Carlisle babies, reg. $125each. Sweet!

[floyd]

Originally Posted by Butsky

Just a thought but what about bearing buddies? Good idea? Hope they would not interfere with baby moon hub caps!!!

They would interfere. and really,unless you plan to submerge your axle you really don't have any use for them. Just repack every couple years or so.

If you still want baby moons and bearing buddies you could use a Greenlee punch to make a perfect hole for them.
Just ask your friendly neighborhood electrician.

[Butsky]

This might seem like a silly question, but does my Boler have tubeless tires? It does, yes?

[Jack L]

Originally Posted by Butsky

This might seem like a silly question, but does my Boler have tubeless tires? It does, yes?

Most likely, it does. The new tires you bought should work Just fine unless one of your rims has a leak (unlikely) and if that is the case, a new rim would be the best way to go. Also, if the axle is original, a replacement axle would be a good idea.

[Butsky]

The present tires look great and hold air(still had some after 15 years up on blocks). New tires ready to go. For a new Dexter axle, what specs should I give the supplier so it will be at a foctory setting/configuration?

[Glenn Baglo]

Tires rot, from the inside.
They may look good now. Don't look so good when shredded and you are stuck on the shoulder. Web wisdom ( and tire companies ) is to replace tires after about six years.

[floyd]

Here is an article on tire rot. Its not too bad even though it contains a couple of glaring omissions and errors.
1] All tires have a liner which protects them from the inside and insures air retention (like an innertube)
2]As the article states, Ozone, UV light and oxygen are the primary causes of "tire rot".
3]While a limited amount of oxygen is introduced to the inside of the tire, no significant ozone or UV light is present once the tire is mounted.
Oxidation consumes oxygen in its process, and it rare to find any significant rust on the sealed portion of a wheel.

One valid point is that flexing the tire through use can be beneficial over time.
I can find no scientific evidence that eliminating the small amount of oxygen inside a tire, by using pure nitrogen, extends the life of a tire by as much as a single day.

While age is a factor in determining tire life, proper use, inspection and inflation are still valid means of determining tire replacement.

Sorry, this is off topic... but maybe relevant.



Tire Dry Rot: How it Happens and How to Protect Your Tires Car Storage

[Raspy]

Originally Posted by Glenn Baglo

Tires rot, from the inside.

Looks more like they "rot" from the outside. UV exposure and damage, evaporation of tire rubber chemicals, exposure to the elements over time.

Can you explain how this occurs "from the inside"? Especially considering that tires become cracked and brittle on their outer surface and become more gray in color.

[Raz]

Originally Posted by Raspy

Looks more like they "rot" from the outside. UV exposure and damage, evaporation of tire rubber chemicals, exposure to the elements over time.

Can you explain how this occurs "from the inside"? Especially considering that tires become cracked and brittle on their outer surface and become more gray in color.

I've seen that mentioned before and wondered what the process was.

[stevebaz]

Most problems that come from inside the tires comes from the moisture and oils comming from the compressed air from the compressor used to fill them. I've seen this more from large offroad tires where the are frequently aired down for offroad purpose and refilled with massive amounts of compressed air in less than ideal unprocessed air.