Bent

[Dawno]

We dropped our 16ft Scamp off the tow vehicle moving it in the driveway. Now we've got bent metal. Where do I go from here?

[mary and bob]

Welding / fabrication shop can fix it.

[the-one1]

Casita Greg is correct. He is a Former weld inspector, of Puget Sound Naval Shipyard in Bremerton, WA and have been welding for over 50 years.

I'm just a guy who stayed at a Holiday Inn once and it wasn't even near a shipyard let alone a courtyard.

[Casita Greg]

Originally Posted by the-one1

Looks like no cracks, just bent out of shape.

Apply some heat and with a BFH, beat it.

Not at all sound advice, nor safe advice! What you suggest is not only foolish, but potentially dangerous. If you really don't know what you're talking about, (which seems obvious,) you shouldn't be offering up flippant unsafe comments like the one you made.

The front hitch plate, (aka the trailer hitch ball mount on the front of the trailer frame,) needs to be replaced outright, (as in cut off, and a new one welded on in its place.) I'd have the welder also add some strengthening gusset plates to the frame while he's at it.

Former weld inspector, Puget Sound Naval Shipyard, Bremerton, WA
(And I've been welding for over 50 years.)

[the-one1]

Originally Posted by Casita Greg

Not at all sound advice, nor safe advice! What you suggest is not only foolish, but potentially dangerous. If you really don't know what you're talking about, (which seems obvious,) you shouldn't be offering up flippant unsafe comments like the one you made.

The front hitch plate, (aka the trailer hitch ball mount on the front of the trailer frame,) needs to be replaced outright, (as in cut off, and a new one welded on in its place.) I'd have the welder also add some strengthening gusset plates to the frame while he's at it.

Former weld inspector, Puget Sound Naval Shipyard, Bremerton, WA

You're right. I've removed my unsafe and downright dangerous post. You are after all a Former weld inspector, of Puget Sound Naval Shipyard, Bremerton, WA and have been welding for over 50 years.

[Bill in Pittsburgh]

Dawno
Not sure how you dropped it. What exactly are you referring to? "Knock on wood" but in 50 years of trailering I have never dropped mine, though apparently it is possible. Just what do you mean so that I never do so (especially true now that I am older and sometimes forgetful).

I strongly agree with removing that section as it is now compromised and having a new section added on by a professional welder. Good Luck

[Larry H]

I disagree with Casita Greg. Let's not make a mountain out of a mole hill. Yes metal can stress and fracture but I doubt that that bend is going to create any catastrophic failure. From the pictures it looks like the frame portion is not affected and it is really just the top plate that holds the jack. I guarantee you that if you take it to a welding shop to get repaired that they will weld it but do no type of inspection (NDE) to show that the welds pass. Working in an industry that focuses on metal and how to join it together and how it fails is a lot different than fixing a travel trailer.



If the frame is not affected and everything connects up properly I think your options are: 1. bend the metal back in place and reinstall the jack if you can get it straight enough. 2. bend the metal back as best you can and add an extra plate on top and reinstall the jack. Or 3. leave it as is and mount a new jack somewhere else (The side of the frame, for example).

[Bill in Pittsburgh]

Originally Posted by Larry H

I disagree with Casita Greg. Let's not make a mountain out of a mole hill. Yes metal can stress and fracture but I doubt that that bend is going to create any catastrophic failure. From the pictures it looks like the frame portion is not affected and it is really just the top plate that holds the jack. I guarantee you that if you take it to a welding shop to get repaired that they will weld it but do no type of inspection (NDE) to show that the welds pass. Working in an industry that focuses on metal and how to join it together and how it fails is a lot different than fixing a travel trailer.



If the frame is not affected and everything connects up properly I think your options are: 1. bend the metal back in place and reinstall the jack if you can get it straight enough. 2. bend the metal back as best you can and add an extra plate on top and reinstall the jack. Or 3. leave it as is and mount a new jack somewhere else (The side of the frame, for example).

I would error on the side of caution not wanting to turn a mole hole into a mountain. The consequences of not exercising caution are too great and can be catastrophic to innocent persons.

[Iowa Dave]

I do not weld. One of my brothers was a certified welder for several years. He welds for me if I need welding. When I worked for a municipality I had two mechanics who were excellent welders on equipment. When a tree fell on a pavilion and split a roof beam I did not hesitate. I ordered new steel and had it welded up by an independent, bonded, insured certified welder. Go first boat or stay on the bank I always say. It’s only money. You can make more. I’m with Greg all the way on this. I’ve been around hitches, trailers and heavy equipment for nearly 60 years don’t think there’s any reason to endanger yourself or others or to have something fail and lose the piece of equipment. Best of luck on your repair.
Iowa Dave

[John in Santa Cruz]

good opportunity to upgrade the annoying stock hitch to one of these...



https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004IY9HVW

(edit, btw ignore Amazon, thats steel, not aluminum)

[jerrybob]

Originally Posted by Larry H

I disagree with Casita Greg. Let's not make a mountain out of a mole hill. Yes metal can stress and fracture but I doubt that that bend is going to create any catastrophic failure. From the pictures it looks like the frame portion is not affected and it is really just the top plate that holds the jack. I guarantee you that if you take it to a welding shop to get repaired that they will weld it but do no type of inspection (NDE) to show that the welds pass. Working in an industry that focuses on metal and how to join it together and how it fails is a lot different than fixing a travel trailer.



If the frame is not affected and everything connects up properly I think your options are: 1. bend the metal back in place and reinstall the jack if you can get it straight enough. 2. bend the metal back as best you can and add an extra plate on top and reinstall the jack. Or 3. leave it as is and mount a new jack somewhere else (The side of the frame, for example).

This might work....then again....it might not. Like Clint Eastwood said in one of his movies....."Do you feel lucky? Well....do ya punk?"

[Bill in Pittsburgh]

Originally Posted by Bill in Pittsburgh

Dawno
Not sure how you dropped it. What exactly are you referring to? "Knock on wood" but in 50 years of trailering I have never dropped mine, though apparently it is possible. Just what do you mean so that I never do so (especially true now that I am older and sometimes forgetful).

I strongly agree with removing that section as it is now compromised and having a new section added on by a professional welder. Good Luck

Still trying to figure out what Dawno means by "I dropped it". Does any one have a clue what Dawno is referring to? How do you drop a trailer?

[FRED SMAILES]

Originally Posted by Casita Greg

Not at all sound advice, nor safe advice! What you suggest is not only foolish, but potentially dangerous. If you really don't know what you're talking about, (which seems obvious,) you shouldn't be offering up flippant unsafe comments like the one you made.

The front hitch plate, (aka the trailer hitch ball mount on the front of the trailer frame,) needs to be replaced outright, (as in cut off, and a new one welded on in its place.) I'd have the welder also add some strengthening gusset plates to the frame while he's at it.

Former weld inspector, Puget Sound Naval Shipyard, Bremerton, WA
(And I've been welding for over 50 years.)

It ain't a bloody ship!
I'd
Bfg the thing reasonably straight and put the jack back, its only lifting a couple hundred pounds and never give it another thought!!
Talk about going off the deep end!

[Bill in Pittsburgh]

Originally Posted by FRED SMAILES

It ain't a bloody ship!
I'd
Bfg the thing reasonably straight and put the jack back, its only lifting a couple hundred pounds and never give it another thought!!
Talk about going off the deep end!

For the minimal $s it would cost to fix it right, I would without giving it a second thought. Bouncing a couple of hundred pounds repeatedly down the road (try driving the interstate highways in Indiana) takes it's toll. I don't think any one is suggesting "going off the deep end". How much could it possibly cost?

[Iowa Dave]

The suggestion from John in Santa Cruz is a very good one. Cut it off, buy a Curt or similar hitch and get it welded on. The twist lock hitches are easy to use and very positive. For the difference in cost it’s well worth considering.
Iowa Dave

[ShelbyM]

Looks as if the trailer was moved with the jack still down.

[Jon in AZ]

Originally Posted by Bill in Pittsburgh

Still trying to figure out what Dawno means by "I dropped it". Does any one have a clue what Dawno is referring to? How do you drop a trailer?

Either a tongue strike while hitched or a false hitch that popped off the ball and hit the pavement. My initial assumption was the latter based on the phrase “off the tow vehicle.” The amount of damage was surprising for a low speed driveway event, but if it’s a heavy tongue with a bit of momentum and the foot caught on something…

OP hasn’t been back. I’m hoping she followed Bob’s initial advice and took it to a certified welder.

[jerrybob]

Don't ya just hate it when someone asks for help....gets some and then never returns to explain what action they took? How friggin rude is that?

[Casita Greg]

Originally Posted by FRED SMAILES

It ain't a bloody ship!
I'd Bfg the thing reasonably straight and put the jack back, its only lifting a couple hundred pounds and never give it another thought!!
Talk about going off the deep end!

No Fred, it ain't a bloody ship!

OK Fred, I'll make one last comment about theses frames. It is, at best, a cheesy underbuilt frame made with 1 1/2" X 3" X 1/8" thick mild steel "C" channel, the lowest and weakest grade you can find, and which is about as "minimalistic" as they can possibly build it, and get it out the door. It's already pushing the structural limits with nothing in the trailer just leaving the factory. Nuff said for dumb comments...

[Jon in AZ]

Scamp frame is box steel. Agree they’re built to a price point, but under-built? Frames last 30-40 years with normal use, and almost indefinitely with covered storage and regular maintenance. Under-built for backcountry use, maybe.

The frame seems to have survived this low-speed driveway mishap just fine with damage limited to the coupler where the jack mounts and the jack itself. Of course the whole tongue should be inspected by a qualified metal fabricator. I’ll let them make the call on repair or replacement of affected parts.

When I bought my 4 year-old Scamp it had suffered a tongue strike with the previous owner, and the jack was bent.. Interestingly, the mounting flange on the jack was buckled, but the coupler mounting plate was unaffected..