Best (easiest?) way to lift a Scamp 5er - New axle vs Axle-Less Trailer Suspension - Fiberglass RV
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Old 06-24-2015, 05:25 PM   #1
Junior Member
Name: Andreas
Trailer: Scamp
Posts: 5
Best (easiest?) way to lift a Scamp 5er - New axle vs Axle-Less Trailer Suspension

Hello. New to the forum, first post. Did some searching around and did not see a post for a comparison like this, just some lifting with a new torsion axle... if there is, then sorry.

Now to my issue. Recently picked up a 2006 Scamp 5er.

TV currently is a 99 Ram 2500 Diesel 4x4. Thinking about downsizing to an older Tundra though.
Regardless which one of the two vehicles, trailer will need some lift, so much seems to be clear from my research.

Question is, how do I get lift the easiest way / cheapest way?

I'm already more / less sold on up-sizing from the 13 inch wheels to 15 inch. The tires currently on the trailer are trashed (was scary towing it home), so since I have to get new ones anyways it should be worth the $ to pay for some new basic steel rims as well. Going up 2 inches in wheel size should give me 1 inch in lift, right?

Now 1 inch won't do the trick, regardless which truck I will use and I realize that it will maybe need a little lift anyways to accommodate the larger wheel size. So when researching I found 3 different options so far, and I'd like advise which one is the easiest / cheapest to achieve (my guess is option 1), while keeping in mind flexibility in case my TV changes or I sell the trailer at some point

1. I will have to confirm again tonight, but if I remember right, when I looked under the trailer a few weeks ago, the axle seems to be welded on, not bolted on, otherwise I'd use this Scamp (Dexter Torflex #9) Axle Lift Kit
That means I will have to order a new axle, from what I read a Dexter Torsion axle with more downward angle to provide lift. Then go to a trailer shop to cut off the hold axle and install this new bolt on axle. Is that correct? Anything I'm forgetting / you can add? As far as flexibility goes, this seems to be a set option, I get one height and that's it... and that is the point that makes this less appealing.

2. Going on the assumption that the old axle has to be cut off, I could seems like I could put a Axle-Less Trailer Suspension - 4" Lift Spindle I found here Timbren Heavy-Duty Axle-Less Trailer Suspension - 4" Lift Spindle - Regular Tires - 2,000 lbs Timbren Trailer Axles ASR2KHDS04 on it. Anybody ever used on of these? Seems like there would be some possible height adjustment?

3. And lastly, I have read some stuff about people using air suspension / air ride (air bags) to lift their trailer. Is that just nuts?

Thanks for your feedback
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Old 06-24-2015, 06:22 PM   #2
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Name: Tim
Trailer: '88 Scamp 16, layout 4
North Florida
Posts: 1,543
The original axle on my 1988 was welded on but the replacement came with a bracket that is welded to the frame, and then the axle is bolted to that. Should be simple enough to fabricate a spacer to lift the trailer if desired. If your axle is OK otherwise a very careful fellow might be able to cut it off and make a bolt on spacer arrangement using the original axle.
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Old 06-24-2015, 06:34 PM   #3
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Name: Dennis
Trailer: Scamp
Posts: 307
With the current styling trend and the bed rails of trucks getting higher with each iteration, all of us with Scamp 19's will eventually be lifting them. If it were my trailer, I would find a
Dexter with an increased drop. Mine has 0 drop so, 22.5 or 45 degrees.

I considered a Timbren, but it's a bit more money and will require require re engineering the system. Also please consider a 3500# axle. I think a 2000# axle is a bit light for a fiver.
2019 Airstream 19 Foot, pulled by a 2014 Nissan Frontier Pro4-X Crew Cab.
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Old 06-24-2015, 07:05 PM   #4
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Herman M Parker's Avatar
Name: Herman & Ann
Trailer: Casita SD
Pensacola Florida
Posts: 133
I had the same problem you are having. I have a 2007 Scamp 5er and a 2003 Dodge 1500. I carried my trailer to a trailer/welding shop he placed a 3 in spacer block on my trailer and with 15 in wheels it now towes level behind my Dodge. I have pulled it approx 2500 miles since and have felt no instability. With it even in high winds.
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Old 06-24-2015, 08:45 PM   #5
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John & BJ S.'s Avatar
Name: John & BJ
Trailer: 2010 Scamp D19
Mesa AZ
Posts: 113
Scamp lifts (especially 19's) are very common. The typical solution is to weld a spacer between the frame and the axle mounts. Photos of my lift are on my blog.

Our 2010 deluxe is now running D rated Continental Vanco 215/70R15 tires on 15" wheels which are the same outside dimension as the 14" tires I was running previously. Still haven't pulled the trigger on a new tug.
John & BJ
Mesa, AZ
"We're not lost. We're just finding our way."
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Old 06-25-2015, 11:13 AM   #6
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Bob Miller's Avatar
Name: Bob
Trailer: 1973 Hunter Compact II
Posts: 7,912
PLEEZE.... Do Not include the "Easiest & Cheapest" way to do anything with your FGRV. Concentrate on doing everything the RIGHT way and you will be a lot happier and safer.....

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Old 06-26-2015, 02:03 PM   #7
Junior Member
Name: Andreas
Trailer: Scamp
Posts: 5

Thanks for everybody's advise, much appreciated!
I'll see if the old axle can be removed without damage... I kind of doubt it. If it gets damaged I'll go with a #3500 axle as suggested (very good point, esp consider all the camping gear I usually have inside the trailer) and the pretty common 3 inch lift.
Happy camping!
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Old 06-26-2015, 04:28 PM   #8
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Name: Darwin
Trailer: 2002 19 ft Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel
Posts: 3,329
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I did ours and I went to a welder that has been in business for many many years and he has a solid reputation.

Cut off the old axle, welded on the lift box steel and BOLTED on the new Dexter axle.

The key to doing this is the Welder with years of experience. Make a mistake cutting the old one off and you can have a fire. Make a mistake welding the lift brackets on and you can be out of alignment.

The thing about the Bolt on is that in the future you could replace axles in 3 hours or less yourself. Welding them on in the first place iwas just nonsense.
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axle, scamp

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