Bigfoot 21 Stabilizer/Leveler/Chocks Looking for recommendations

[Thundercleese]

Good evening fellow Fiberglass campers. I have a few questions for those who may be experienced with Bigfoot tandem axle trailers, specifically Bigfoot 21 foot trailers. I would like to buy the correct leveler and chocks, since it appears that the spacing between Bigfoot tires is minimal.

First, the leveler. In the past with my Casita I have used the Andersen leveler and loved it. No issues at all, worked great every time. The Andersen levelers look to be too long for the Bigfoot axle spacing, so I am thinking of going with the Camco brand. I did read that you can cut the Andersen levelers to the size you need, but I really don't want to do that. Seems like that would make them not even once leveled.

Next question is on a stabilizer. Again, the question on axle spacing comes up. The X-Chocks are very common, but I am not sure if they would work with the spacing. I did see one youtube video with a Bigfoot and the owner had the Camco version. I am thinking I am going to have to go with the Camco version again on this one due to spacing. Any insight or suggestions on this would be helpful.

Lastly, any recommendations on chocks would be helpful. In the past I had the trusty Camco red chocks, but the new ones are yellow, I don't know if that makes a difference. They always worked fine, but I was thinking of upgrading to rubber chocks this time around.

Thanks in advance for any help on these topics. When I bought my Casita I purchased the A-Z Owners Guide, best investment I made. I red that cover to cover and it really helped me keep my Casita well maintained. I wish that Bigfoot had something similar. I do plan on joining the Bigfoot Owner's Club International once I get my trailer in the next couple of months. One disclaimer, I did include links in this post, but I am NOT getting paid for them or receiving any benefit, they are for reference only. Seems like some youtubers link to everything in their video, I am sure there is some type of kickback for this, but that's not me.

[Bruce Olive]

We use Andersen levelers for our BF 25. They work fine, just trim some of the end off of one until it fits between the two tires. You are trimming off the “skinny” end, so no impact on the level. Can recommend Tractor Supply for chocks. They have some heavy-duty rubber chocks that work well.

[Defenestrator]

I use a trimmed Andersen. The difference in height is near-zero by the time you roll onto them, and there's enough give/leeway in the tires and suspension that it's not a problem. You can also just shove the untrimmed one under and give it a bit of a kick to further reduce any differences. Or just trim them both equally.

[Civilguy]

We carry one Andersen leveler and simply use it under just one wheel of our dual-axle trailer.

We received a set of yellow plastic leveling blocks and wheel chocks when we bought a used trailer. Some broke apart on rocky surfaces and I quickly threw out the remainder.

We currently carry one BAL X-Chock, a pair of rubber chocks, and a collection of 2X boards and plywood pieces for leveling and use as sand pads under the stabilizers.

The manufacturer states that that the X-Chock will fit in a 1-3/8" space between tires.

I generally place the two rubber chocks between the wheels on one side, and the X-Chock on the other if I am feeling particularly ambitious. If we are spending the night on the hitch, I don't bother chocking at all.

By the way, the X-Chock manufacturer cautions in the packaging that they are not intended for use as wheel chocks. They don't mention that in the text listing or in the accompanying video on their web site. Caveat emptor.

[John in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by Civilguy

We carry one Andersen leveler and simply use it under just one wheel of our dual-axle trailer.

that won't work with independent torsion axles, or at least, it won't raise the frame very far. more than a few times I've needed to raise one side nearly as high as the andersen's will go

[Civilguy]

No worries, thanks, it is working. Hence the supplemental lumber.

[John in Santa Cruz]

well, the whole idea of the Andersen is that you don't need to carry around 100 lbs of dead wood.

[Thundercleese]

Originally Posted by Civilguy

We carry one Andersen leveler and simply use it under just one wheel of our dual-axle trailer.

We received a set of yellow plastic leveling blocks and wheel chocks when we bought a used trailer. Some broke apart on rocky surfaces and I quickly threw out the remainder.

We currently carry one BAL X-Chock, a pair of rubber chocks, and a collection of 2X boards and plywood pieces for leveling and use as sand pads under the stabilizers.

The manufacturer states that that the X-Chock will fit in a 1-3/8" space between tires.

I generally place the two rubber chocks between the wheels on one side, and the X-Chock on the other if I am feeling particularly ambitious. If we are spending the night on the hitch, I don't bother chocking at all.

By the way, the X-Chock manufacturer cautions in the packaging that they are not intended for use as wheel chocks. They don't mention that in the text listing or in the accompanying video on their web site. Caveat emptor.

Thanks for the info, that was very helpful. I didn't even check the suggested spacing on the X-Chock. I feel confident in the X-Chock with rubber wheel chocks.

I am getting more used to the idea of cutting the Andersen leveler. I saw someone on another forum cut it with a band saw and use a sander to make it look really nice. I am not at that level of DIY, but I am sure I can figure something out.

[John in Santa Cruz]

I've cut two now. one, I used a hacksaw with a relatively coarse blade, took quite a while.

the second one, I used a 5" 'skill saw' (lithium 18V powered) with a fine tooth blade set so it was leaned way over, that went through the plastic like butter, but I went slowly so it didn't get so hot it started to melt on stuff.

I sloppily dressed them with a large doublecut 'bastard' (coarse) metal file.

[Thundercleese]

Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz

I've cut two now. one, I used a hacksaw with a relatively coarse blade, took quite a while.

the second one, I used a 5" 'skill saw' (lithium 18V powered) with a fine tooth blade set so it was leaned way over, that went through the plastic like butter, but I went slowly so it didn't get so hot it started to melt on stuff.

I sloppily dressed them with a large doublecut 'bastard' (coarse) metal file.

Thanks for the tip. I do have a skill saw and I can get a fine tooth blade.

[Civilguy]

Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz

well, the whole idea of the Andersen is that you don't need to carry around 100 lbs of dead wood.

No worries, thanks, I don't!

I figure that the whole concept behind the Andersen-style levelers is to provide some nuance in adjustment without having to drive back and forth and reposition blocks. So, I use the Andersen for trimming the height, with lumber to provide extra elevation if required.

HDPE has a density of about 60 pcf. while the Doug fir is only 33 pcf., presuming that you are not hauling living wood.

So, I figure that the lumber offers a better proposition as measured by the universally-recognized traveler's unit of "height-of-adjustment per pound-hauled"!

As a bonus, it even leaves more payload capacity available for hauling 'astronomical instruments of unusual size'! (Is that redundant?)

[John in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by Civilguy

As a bonus, it even leaves more payload capacity available for hauling 'astronomical instruments of unusual size'! (Is that redundant?)

wait I resemble that!!

[John in Santa Cruz]

oh and that scope doesn't take nearly as much room in the f250 as it did in the Tacoma...

[Natalie21]

I bought these Camco 44561 Olympian Aluminum Stack Jacks for my 8,000 lb 36' travel trailer to stabilize it while camping. The electric stabilizing jacks on the camper didn't seem to help much with the bouncing and swaying from people walking around. But, these RV stabilizers completely resolved the problem. With four on each side and space equally distributed, there were almost zero movements. I love its durable cast aluminum construction because it shouldn’t have any issues preventing rust or corrosion from occurring with this construction.

[CharlesinGA]

The part of the Andersen leveler that you cut off is the part that flips up as the trailer rolls up on it, so it has zero affect on the height when you roll the trailer onto it.

You really don't need a fancy saw blade for cutting it, a regular coarse wood blade will do the trick and then take your pocket knife and draw the blade across the cut areas to remove any swarf that is still clinging to the piece. I have cut blue plastic barrels with a circular saw with a wood blade and it makes a nice cut.

Charles

[Natalie21]

Originally Posted by Natalie21

I bought these Camco 44561 Olympian Aluminum Stack Jacks for my 8,000 lb 36' travel trailer to stabilize it while camping. The electric stabilizing jacks on the camper didn't seem to help much with the bouncing and swaying from people walking around. But, these RV stabilizers completely resolved the problem. With four on each side and space equally distributed, there were almost zero movements. I love its durable cast aluminum construction because it shouldn’t have any issues preventing rust or corrosion from occurring with this construction.

I’d have to go with the 4-pack given my larger RV, which isn’t too bad as the cost’s still affordable. And the fact you can adjust their height from 11 to 17 inches based on your needs is another positive.