Blow out on the freeway

[Mike Magee]

Originally Posted by Jared J

I would never run over max sidewall pressure. They have to be ran 10psi over the load pressure to get to 75 mph. To get to 85 mph, you add 10 psi to the load pressure and derate the weight by 10% (manufacturer allowing). If I put my tires at max sidewall pressure, they would be good to 85, with an easy 1,000 pounds more weight than is there.

Hercules and gremax also said it was allowed. I would personally never run marathons to start with, but that's just me.


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I've never heard of gremax, but we do have a Hercules dealer in town. I'll have to check 'em out.

I'm not sure I understand some of what you're saying about pressure. Don't these tires say on the sidewall 50 psi max? If one tries to run at 75 mph, doesn't that require raising pressure to 60 psi? And isn't that "above max sidewall pressure"? (Not that doing so is a problem when the mfr allows it, of course.) I don't get the distinction between max sidewall pressure and load pressure; seems like those are two ways of saying the same thing.

[OneOleMan]

Originally Posted by steve dunham

I personally do NOT care if my trailer tires are rated for/ at 65 mph or 165 mph
I have no intentions of driving while towing at any speed much above 60 mph
I am old ,retired and in no hurry to get anywhere.
I am a curmudgeon and enjoying every minute of it!

Ahh, sounds like me, even the curmudgeon, (dang – had to look that one up). I stay off freeways, set the cruise control about 5 mph under the limit, sit back and enjoy the scenery.

[Borrego Dave]

Interesting video Floyd, I've heard that they were omiting spares. Guess I'm old school as I want a real spare, even a temp tire. I just can't see relying that system or a tow truck for something as easy as changing a tire. Even if your spare is iffy. One comment about a "fix a flat" type sealers. I do carry it but I've only used it once and it did work. The folks that put new tires on weren't happy about all the residue left on the rim though.

[Carol H]

Originally Posted by David B.

Is any company making "run-flat" trailer tires like they do for cars?
Dave & Paula

If they are there probable as hard to find a replacement for as they are for the cars. Went on a vacation with a friend to Vancouver Island a few years ago and they had the run flat tires on a new Toyota Van. There is a limit to how far you can actually go on it once its running flat. Unfortunately the nearest tire store that carried the tires would have required her to drive on the flat run-flat tire more than three times the recommended miles (I think hers were only rated to go for about 25 miles at 50 mph) .... we ended up having to stay in the town we were in for an extra couple of days until the replacement tire could be shipped to us. Her husband suggested after the fact we should have just bought new regular tires all the way around for it, as he did when the same thing happened to him on another trip in the interior of the province about 6 months later.

[Jared J]

Originally Posted by Mike Magee

I've never heard of gremax, but we do have a Hercules dealer in town. I'll have to check 'em out.

I'm not sure I understand some of what you're saying about pressure. Don't these tires say on the sidewall 50 psi max? If one tries to run at 75 mph, doesn't that require raising pressure to 60 psi? And isn't that "above max sidewall pressure"? (Not that doing so is a problem when the mfr allows it, of course.) I don't get the distinction between max sidewall pressure and load pressure; seems like those are two ways of saying the same thing.

My tires are 80 psi max.

For my load, I can run them at 50 psi and still have a wide safety margin. That means to do 75, I need to run 60 psi, and just for a little more cushion, I run them at 65.

Trailer tires don't need (necessarily) to be ran at max pressure. They need to be ran for the pressure that the weight of your trailer dictates, which is on a chart the manufacturer will have.

Each of my tires is rated for 2850 pounds. My trailer is nowhere near 5700 pounds, so I have a wide safety margin.


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[sharon_b]

my scamp had a full blowout on the way home with it. there was a spare so that was not a problem. what was a BIG problem was assuming my truck jack & wrench would work on the camper! thank God for the NC state trooper that came to help that night! he had a tiny jack & the RIGHT lug wrench. and he put up with my grateful hug and a few tears. he reminded me that its all part of the adventure

[floyd]

Originally Posted by Mike Magee

I've never heard of gremax, but we do have a Hercules dealer in town. I'll have to check 'em out.

I'm not sure I understand some of what you're saying about pressure. Don't these tires say on the sidewall 50 psi max? If one tries to run at 75 mph, doesn't that require raising pressure to 60 psi? And isn't that "above max sidewall pressure"? (Not that doing so is a problem when the mfr allows it, of course.) I don't get the distinction between max sidewall pressure and load pressure; seems like those are two ways of saying the same thing.

You have it right, and it is not worth a rehash here, as it will do no good, but load pressure charts are minimum pressures required to prevent tire damage at a particular load.
Very few if any RV trailers are designed well enough to be towed safely at 75mph or more, even with Formula1 tires. That's not to say it isn't done.
If nothing else, high speed beats the trailer to death and wastes fuel.
The plus side is that the vast majority of RV trailer wrecks are likely single car wrecks brought on by sway. Speed and sudden maneuvering are definite factors.

[Carol H]

Originally Posted by sharon_b

BIG problem was assuming my truck jack & wrench would work on the camper! thank God for the NC state trooper that came to help that night!

A four way tire iron is a handy item to keep in the trailer - works for the lug nuts on the trailer (and probable tow) as well as removing the drain plug from the hot water tank. Folding one for easy storage is even better!

[Carol H]

Originally Posted by floyd

If nothing else, high speed beats the trailer to death and wastes fuel.

Can also be costly in those States/Provinces that have restrictive speed limits when towing & many do!

Will cost you anywhere between $140 to $483 in these parts if caught speeding, depending on how much over the limit you where going - oh and we have a drivers licence points system as well. Each speeding ticket is a min. of 3 points - first three points are a freebie but if you get another ticket of any kind in a 5 year period you will get a bill on the anniversary date of your drivers licence. The cost per year for your drivers licence is $300 if you have had two speeding tickets within the past 5 years. The more tickets you have had the more you pay! For example 4 speeding tickets over a 5 year period will cost you an extra $1260 a year to keep your drivers licence. It takes 5 years from date of offence to get rid of the points and stop paying every year for them. If getting up into the 20 points range you are gong to be paying about $4000 to year for your licence each year.

Thats a lot of gas money wasted!! For what? Getting to a campsite an hour or so ahead of your friends?

[steve dunham]

Originally Posted by Carol H

Can also be costly in those States/Provinces that have restrictive speed limits when towing & many do!

Will cost you anywhere between $140 to $483 in these parts if caught speeding, depending on how much over the limit you where going - oh and we have a drivers licence points system as well. Each speeding ticket is a min. of 3 points - first three points are a freebie but if you get another ticket of any kind in a 5 year period you will get a bill on the anniversary date of your drivers licence. The cost per year for your drivers licence is $300 if you have had two speeding tickets within the past 5 years. The more tickets you have had the more you pay! For example 4 speeding tickets over a 5 year period will cost you an extra $1260 a year to keep your drivers licence. It takes 5 years from date of offence to get rid of the points and stop paying every year for them. If getting up into the 20 points range you are gong to be paying about $4000 to year for your licence each year.

("Thats a lot of gas money wasted!! For what? Getting to a campsite an hour or so ahead of your friends?

")

We make an annual trip down South each Winter. A total of 1300 miles one way
(We drive at 60/62 mph)

1300 miles @ 55 mph = 23.6 Hrs
1300 miles @ 60 mph = 21.7 Hrs
1300 miles @ 65 mph = 20.0 Hrs.
1300 miles @ 70 mph = 18.6 Hrs.
1300 miles @ 75 mph = 17.4 Hrs

Driving at 60 mph versus 75 mph increase our driving time by 4.3 hrs.

Gas Mileage 2011 Ram 1500
60/62 mph = 13.8 mpg
70 /75 mph = 10.6 mpg

1300 miles @ 13.8 mpg = 94 gals fuel
1300 miles @ 10.6 mpg = 123 gal fuel
Difference in gallons of fuel used = 29 gal
29 gal x $3.49 / gal (2013 price) = $101.20

$101.20 add. fuel cost/ 4.3 hrs increased driving time =
$23.54 / Hr

$ 23.54 per hour in my book is not bad pay for just driving

[Jared J]

For me it's the difference of one day on the road, or two. That's two less days of camping on an already short trip.

I couldn't care less how much gas is used, if it means two more laid back days in the woods.


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[floyd]

Originally Posted by Carol H

Can also be costly in those States/Provinces that have restrictive speed limits when towing & many do!

Will cost you anywhere between $140 to $483 in these parts if caught speeding, depending on how much over the limit you where going - oh and we have a drivers licence points system as well. Each speeding ticket is a min. of 3 points - first three points are a freebie but if you get another ticket of any kind in a 5 year period you will get a bill on the anniversary date of your drivers licence. The cost per year for your drivers licence is $300 if you have had two speeding tickets within the past 5 years. The more tickets you have had the more you pay! For example 4 speeding tickets over a 5 year period will cost you an extra $1260 a year to keep your drivers licence. It takes 5 years from date of offence to get rid of the points and stop paying every year for them. If getting up into the 20 points range you are gong to be paying about $4000 to year for your licence each year.

Thats a lot of gas money wasted!! For what? Getting to a campsite an hour or so ahead of your friends?

WOW! Why don't they just shoot you!
Sounds like a good reason to stay out of foreign countries!

[floyd]

Originally Posted by Jared J

For me it's the difference of one day on the road, or two. That's two less days of camping on an already short trip.

I couldn't care less how much gas is used, if it means two more laid back days in the woods.


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Luckily, most RV trailer accidents are single car wrecks.
The real secret to making good time on a trip is to stay on the road.
At 60MPH I have often been passed by the same duck waddling trailer 4 or five time in a day on the highway!

[Jared J]

Originally Posted by floyd

Luckily, most RV trailer accidents are single car wrecks.
The real secret to making good time on a trip is to stay on the road.
At 60MPH I have often been passed by the same duck waddling trailer 4 or five time in a day on the highway!

More than a few people on here tow campers with the other vehicle I have, that I consider adequate for light 4x8 trailers only. In fact, that's why I have the fifth wheel. I originally looked at these so I could use my car. I decided a 500 lb trailer was enough in side winds, no way even a 13' would have been safe with my car. Since I had to use the pickup anyway, might as well get the bigger camper.

My pickup at 75 is one of the safer setups on here, I'm not worried about it. How many people on here are towing with passenger tires, on stock brakes, 15 year old brake hoses, and the original fluid?

I have high grade grooved and drilled rotors, stainless jacketed Teflon brake hoses, carbon fiber ceramic pads, fresh synthetic brake fluid, and 10 ply load range e tires on the pickup and trailer. I'm also not even close to half of my tow capacity.

Also, my trailers never waddle, without a wd hitch or away protection. Why? I load them right and don't use bandaids.

I'm done with the thread hijack and self righteous attitudes, that's why I stayed off the board the first time. I should have learned.



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[Glenn Baglo]

Is your solution that those who have opinions that differ from yours cease posting?

[Carol H]

Originally Posted by Jared J

More than a few people on here tow campers with the other vehicle I have, that I consider adequate for light 4x8 trailers only. In fact, that's why I have the fifth wheel. I originally looked at these so I could use my car. I decided a 500 lb trailer was enough in side winds, no way even a 13' would have been safe with my car. Since I had to use the pickup anyway, might as well get the bigger camper.


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Although I don't see the relevance of this to the thread discuss as its more of a trailer stowage/balance issue than speed issue, I think one needs to be a bit
fairer in judgement of the vehicle when suggesting is not a safe towing a 13' fiberglass trailers with it, even though one has not actually towed one with it.

Having seen the photo (found in this thread post # 21) of the modified smaller boat trailer to kayak/bike trailer mentioned above and the way its loaded I personally would expect it to wiggle around in a side wind of 40 mph as it apparently did , regardless of what I was pulling it with. The plastic kayak on top of the tug acting as a sail probable didnt help out a lot either. The set up in the photo is not anywhere as equally as balanced and or aerodynamic as the 13' trailers other members are towing behind the same car with no problems. Although I admit one may not notice it wiggling around as much if pulling with a large truck (that is until it gets to the point of no return) but I suspect those traveling behind you might notice it.

My personal experience with a similar sized vehicle of the same make was very different than yours in regards to its ability to stick to the road and pull a 16' trailer in high winds with out a hint of a wiggle - winds high enough to put the semi in front of me sides ways on the freeway. I did not realize how windy it was until that event took place. Actually wish I could get my new tug a larger truck to give the same trailer as equal as stable a tow in less windy conditions without having to add a bunch of extra stuff to the hitch set up!

[floyd]

Originally Posted by Jared J

My pickup at 75 is one of the safer setups on here, I'm not worried about it. How many people on here are towing with passenger tires, on stock brakes, 15 year old brake hoses, and the original fluid?

I have high grade grooved and drilled rotors, stainless jacketed Teflon brake hoses, carbon fiber ceramic pads, fresh synthetic brake fluid, and 10 ply load range e tires on the pickup and trailer. I'm also not even close to half of my tow capacity.

Also, my trailers never waddle, without a wd hitch or sway protection. Why? I load them right and don't use bandaids.

I'm done with the thread hijack and self righteous attitudes, that's why I stayed off the board the first time. I should have learned.



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Cross drilling went out with organic pads, today it is done for looks only, or for those who don't understand outgassing.

How would you do a wd hitch on that Scamp19?

I'm guessing then that that wasn't you who passed me 4 or 5 times that day??

Chill... I, for one, still love to hear your sage advice!
I do agree with you sometimes...
Like that last sentence for instance!

BTW... my brake hoses are only 14 years old!

[Bob Miller]

Although this is talked about a lot, I think that something "In writing" from a tire manufacturer is needed. Until than, in the event of a blowout at, say 75 MPH, one doesn't have a tire to stand on! LOL.

[cpaharley2008]

If my memory serves me correct, Jared's first post here on the forum years ago was about acquiring a Scamp 5th wheel that was close to 30 years old out of state and then towing it home at excessive speeds. I questioned his thinking then due to the old tires and suspension that was on the trailer when he acquired it. Since then he has rebuilt the Scamp himself and did a good job while posting a lot of pictures.

[honda03842]

Wow!

There's a wide spectrum of owners on this site. For me I don't drive 75 any longer even when I'm not towing however I do realize others, many others, do drive at high speed. It's OK with me, everyone has a different style and different needs. Like Floyd I have had the same rig speed by me more than once in a day.

I'm happy to read Jared's posts because they are considered. He definitely attempts to tow safely, though at high speed. I'm sure there are many who tow at lower speeds that are less safe. I have heard many times how unsafe I was towing with a Honda CRV. Sometimes you need to just smile and go forward.

The one life lesson I've learned is you can share your opinion, approach, ideas with others but never expect to get agreement or to change anyone. Sharing your knowledge is enough.