Bouncy

[PilotPica]

I recently bought a Scamp 13' and towed it home from CA (by way of Arizona ). It didn't have much weight in it as I haven't "moved in" yet. Also, I tow with a 4Runner.

It hopped and bounced so badly, that when I opened the door I would find cushions and curtains all over the inside. After having looked at this forum, it appears as if perhaps the axle or parts thereof may be wearing out. ?

Eventually, I plan to raise the height of the axle for better clearance. I would like to know if it is safe to tow in the meantime, or if there are other possible sources for this problem.

Thanks for any wisdom shared!

[Jon in AZ]

You're correct. The axle is definitely suspect. Best test is to raise one side of the trailer using a jack on the frame near the axle. Watch (or measure from the top of the wheel arch to the center of the hub) to see how much the wheel drops as the frame rises. Little or no movement means a dead axle. A new axle with installation will likely run $600-800. There are no "parts"- the whole axle is replaced as a unit. This would be the time to add trailer brakes if you don't have them.

Is it safe to tow? Possibly for short trips. But you should check after you load it to make sure you have adequate clearance inside the wheel wells to avoid rubbing- that's a quick path to a blowout. And it's really hard on the trailer and everything in it. With a dead axle, the only springs you have are the tire sidewalls. The shock of every bump in the road is being transferred directly to the frame, the shell, the rivets, the plumbing, the wiring...

[likeair2me]

So Jon,

I called the fine folks at Scamp and they quoted me a price of about $450 for the axle and installation for my '81 13, and something in the neighborhood of $800 for a new axle and brake system. Is that a fair and reasonable price? I am considering the upgrade. It's only 700 miles to Backus from here, and a good portion is interstate.

I was going to put a Dexter on, but I understand that Scamp had some issues with quality and switched to Lippert axles. My local e-Trailer no longer handles the Dexter torsion axles, only the straight ones.

By the way, when I towed it home, it jumped around like it had just gotten out adopted out of the dog pound.

As it sits...

[Jon in AZ]

It sounds fair, assuming that includes all the wiring for the brakes connected to the plug, but if you go through Scamp, you will only get an axle with the same ride height as the original. That will probably give you an inch or two over what you have now by correcting the sag. Personally, I would want a bit more than that, and you did mention you were interested in raising the ride height.

I'm not sure what they used in 1981, but I know my 2008 started with a 10-degree up-angle trailing arm axle. I will change to a 0-degree axle when my turn comes. That will add maybe 2-3 inches in addition to whatever has been lost due to sagging over time.

A torsion axle replacement is something any competent trailer shop can handle. I would look for a shop that does a lot of custom utility trailer work, not an RV shop. Perhaps there is someone on the forum in your area who can make a recommendation.

I hadn't heard the reason for the switch to Lippert, so I can't comment on that.

[PilotPica]

Just to display my ignorance...what does it mean if the axle is "dead"?

[Jon in AZ]

Torsion axles have rubber inside the axle tube. It serves as springs and shock absorbers. Over time, the rubber hardens and becomes brittle. As a result the arms at the end of the axle tube no longer move up and down as you go down the road. The normal lifespan of a rubber torsion axle is considered to be 15-20 years, though they can roll on well past their expiration date with diminishing performance and ride quality.

Here's a short video from Dexter showing how they work:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QzVVqXxbGSA

[steve dunham]

I had a new axle (Alco) with new brakes and the lift kit installed at the Scamp factory in Backus Mn . ( 1999 Scamp 16 ) . They started at 8:00 AM and we're finished well before noon. They hooked up the new brakes plus primed and painted everything . Scamp charged us $660 + tax in 2011 .
I got prices from a couple of local RV shops and Scamp's price was lower plus I felt more confident having Scamp do the install.

**NOTE , The old axle was welded on , the new axle was bolted on so if you ever need to replace the axle it is a lot easier.

[likeair2me]

Mind you, it was a ballpark estimate. The guy on the phone knew I wasn't going for a hard price or I would have gotten a written quote.

I know on top of that I will need to add the cost of the new wiring for my TV and a brake controller. I assume the proportional is the preferred unit, but would appreciate any feedback on choices for the units. The prices seem modest to massive.

I am also running 4 lug wheels, which would probably be better served as 5 lug. So, once again, the simple job snowballs. If I can get it all done for under a grand, that would make me much happier.

[Roy in TO]

Originally Posted by likeair2me

Attachment 105975As it sits...

Looks like it needs an axle to me. Sitting pretty low. Have a look at the photos on the Scamp site: http://www.scamptrailers.com/showroom.html
The center of the wheel hub sits about even with the lower part of the rear body on the curbside. Given that the axle only has 2-3" of motion your looks like it has bottomed out.

Originally Posted by Jon in AZ

Over time, the rubber hardens and becomes brittle. As a result the arms at the end of the axle tube no longer move up and down as you go down the road.

Agreed, and the rubber also distorts or compresses over time, much like a rubber bushing on a car. This explains the lower ride height seen in the photo above. That is why it is suggested to take some of the weight off your axle during storage. The rubber then hardens in its "rest" position.

Somewhere on this site are some pictures of what the rubber looks like on a dead axle. Somebody was kind enough to cut theirs through the rubber and post pictures.

[Jon in AZ]

You can stick with 4-lug if you want. If you switch to a 5-lug, you will also have to modify the spare tire mount. And the snowball grows...

A popular brake controller choice is the Tekonsha Prodigy P2. The cost of the controller itself isn't bad. The wiring can cost, depending on what your vehicle has in terms of prewiring.

[PilotPica]

I love these forums!! I learn so much! Thanks!
My Scamp is about as low as likeair2me. Since I aim for the rougher roads in general, and mine is a 1982, I think the axle will move up the priority list.
Also on the list is remove badly weathered paint and make the door fit. Interior fun will be during the winter.

[Penelope]

Originally Posted by PilotPica

I recently bought a Scamp 13' and towed it home from CA (by way of Arizona ). It didn't have much weight in it as I haven't "moved in" yet. Also, I tow with a 4Runner.

It hopped and bounced so badly, that when I opened the door I would find cushions and curtains all over the inside. After having looked at this forum, it appears as if perhaps the axle or parts thereof may be wearing out. ?

Eventually, I plan to raise the height of the axle for better clearance. I would like to know if it is safe to tow in the meantime, or if there are other possible sources for this problem.

Thanks for any wisdom shared!

The same thing happened to me. Long story short... When I bought my 13ft Burro, I took it right to a trailer sales / service company, to have everything checked. I didn't know anything about the camper and wanted to be sure it was road worthy and safe. I was told that there was no power going to the electric brakes. They assured me that I didn't need them, but they could research the problem, at an hourly rate of course. I read up on power brakes and decided to wait on the repair until after my first trip. Well about an hour into my trip, on a very long, high bridge, my Burro started bucking! My camper door even flew open! I was terrified!! I realized that there was now power to the electric brakes. I didn't have a brake controller on the truck, because I didn't have trailer brakes, so I was lead to believe. Temporary Solution, cut both brake wires going to each wheel.

[likeair2me]

Sure is a good thing you got "perfeshunul" guidance.

[likeair2me]

And continuing on the thought of axle replacement....

Does anyone have the correct dimensional data to order a replacement axle for the 1981 Scamp 13? I don't seem to be able to find the dimensions to plug into the Dexter order form.

[Penelope]

Originally Posted by likeair2me

Sure is a good thing you got "perfeshunul" guidance.

Yeah, I know, good thing I was able to figure it out on my own, and knew enough basics to know to cut the wires. Someone told me the trailer could have twisted and flipped over. Have a good night.

[likeair2me]

Hope to catch up to you somewhere on the road, someday. Maybe at a rally.
Have a good 'in.

[Borrego Dave]

Originally Posted by likeair2me

And continuing on the thought of axle replacement....

Does anyone have the correct dimensional data to order a replacement axle for the 1981 Scamp 13? I don't seem to be able to find the dimensions to plug into the Dexter order form.

I'd give Scamp a call for the numbers.

[StevenMaria]

I-65 going thru Birmingham AL is one of the worst roads i have ever traversed. It has concrete slabs for about 10 miles and every joint is broken. Been like this for years. I thought for sure Id lose the casita.

Going north I recommend diverting on bypass I-459 to I-20 direction ATL. Then back track on I-20 to connect again to I-65. It adds about 12 miles but when you reach I-65 you will be north of the broken concrete slabs.