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04-30-2012, 10:10 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Name: Mike
Trailer: 1993 Bigfoot 17 ftCB / 2023 RAV4 Trail
Ontario
Posts: 229
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Brake Controller mounted in trailer????
I wonder if anyone has mounted a Brake Controller on the trailer?
For example, if someone was picking up a trailer with brakes, but had only the use of a tow vehicle with the 4 pin flat connector, would it be safe to temporarily install a Controller inside the trailer, or on the tongue, connecting to the brake light line, the break-away brake switch, and the trailer battery?
Obviously, it would take someone with some knowledge to run an adapter and some wiring, but it does seem to me that it might be better than travelling without the brakes.
This might be a viable temporary solution for a rushed trailer pickup - which does happen!
In a way, this would be operating somewhat like the self contained inertia activated hydraulic trailer brakes.
Has anyone tried this?
Mike .....>
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04-30-2012, 10:46 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Name: Greg
Trailer: 72 Boler American
Indiana
Posts: 1,557
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I doubt it.
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04-30-2012, 11:19 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2008 20 ft Flagstaff Pop-Up (206ST) / 2005 Sienna
Posts: 1,416
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The Wireless controllers work on a similar principal. The controller is mounted to the trailer tongue, Plugged into the tow vechicle and the trailer plugged into the controller. You use a remote in the tow vehicle to set it but once it's set you can put the remote away unless you need to change the settings. Here is a link to one.
Tekonsha Prodigy RF Brake Controller - Proportional - Trailer Mounted Tekonsha Brake Controller 90250
__________________
Melissa in Florida
1999 Toyota Sienna XLE
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04-30-2012, 11:31 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Trailer: Class A Motorhome
Posts: 7,912
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I like your idea as we have two trailers and two different tow vehicles. It would be interesting if anyone has worked this out.
I looked at adding "Surge Brakes" to my Hunter but it would require major frame reworking to accomodate the new master cylinder. But there are kits on the market for adding surge braks.
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04-30-2012, 02:04 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Name: Sam
Trailer: 1977 Boler
Kansas
Posts: 104
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We have the RF controller and got to test its versatility recently when we traded in our tow vehicle. The hardest thing about switching from the old SUV to the new truck was simply remembering to grab the remote from the glove box before trade-in! Once in the new truck, we simply plugged the remote into the vehicle's 12V outlet and it synced right up with the controller module mounted on the Boler's tongue.
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04-30-2012, 10:37 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Name: Russ
Trailer: Scamp 16' side dinette, Airstream Safari 19'
California
Posts: 588
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Mike,
I decided to get the RF trailer mounted unit when I made a trip out of town to pick up our Scamp. Before leaving home I installed the RV style plug on the back of our Jeep. I took a battery powered drill with me to affix the controller to the trailer tongue. I took me about 10 minutes to mount the unit to the trailer, and another 15 minutes to do the braking tests and adjustments once underway. The system works excellently, but costs more than the permanent ones.
Russ
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05-01-2012, 06:26 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Name: Denny
Trailer: Lil Snoozy
Michigan
Posts: 552
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With a 4 pin connector the power to actuate the trailer brakes would have to come from the wire(s) that feeds the brake lights. That could be a lot of amps for pretty light gage wire, also could be issues blowing the TV's fuse.
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05-01-2012, 07:44 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Trailer: Casita Spirit Deluxe 2003 16 ft
Posts: 1,899
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I think you might have a good idea for a new product. I looked around a bit but didn't find anything. The Tekonsha described above seems to require a 7 pin connection on the tow vehicle and you asked about something to work with only a 4 pin on the tow.
If the trailer has brakes then it has a 6 or 7 pin connector. I made a box that the trailer plugs into and uses the trailer's own battery to power the different lights (running, backup, turn signal) as well as lock the brakes. However the brakes are either on full or off. (I've since modified the box to add a toggle switch protector to the brake toggle to prevent accidently turning on the brakes.)
A smarter person could probably incorporate an accelerometer to modulate the brake voltage all from the trailer's own battery. The 4 pin would be just to run the brake and turn signal lights. I just don't know how long the average trailer's battery would last with the trickle drain of the accelerometer and occasional brake application. The 4 pin connector only supplies voltage when the tow vehicle's lights are used. I suppose you could tow with the lights on and try to siphon off some of that to run the accelerometer.
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05-01-2012, 09:36 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Name: Jon
Trailer: Escape 21C
New York
Posts: 2,387
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I see one problem - since the brake lights are being used to trigger the controller rather than the brake pedal switch, if you use your 4 way flashers when climbing a hill, combined with a 4 pin trailer connector, won't the brakes be applied as the lights flash?
As to the high current problem, I don't see it - most controllers use a separate sense & power wire - adequate sized wire could be used to connect the power connection to the trailer battery.
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05-01-2012, 11:12 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Trailer: Casita Spirit Deluxe 2003 16 ft
Posts: 1,899
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon Vermilye
I see one problem - since the brake lights are being used to trigger the controller rather than the brake pedal switch, if you use your 4 way flashers when climbing a hill, combined with a 4 pin trailer connector, won't the brakes be applied as the lights flash?
As to the high current problem, I don't see it - most controllers use a separate sense & power wire - adequate sized wire could be used to connect the power connection to the trailer battery.
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If your response was directed towards my hypothetical brake controller then I think you missed my point. I wasn't suggesting using the four prong to actuate the brakes, only to power the accelerometer. Traveling with the lights on in the tow would provide power constantly to the trailer. Using the turn signal or brakes brightens the rear lights.
I was suggesting that sensing deceleration and activating the brakes were two separate systems each getting their current from a different source.
I was also suggesting that the trailer brakes (electromagnets) be run from the trailer battery. One source I read ( Electric Trailer Brake Guide to Electric Trailer Brakes & Brake Controls) says the trailer magnets use up to 3 amps per magnet or 6 amps per typical axle. It's only pulling amperage when decelerating (trailer brakes on) but it's not an insignificant drain.
But, it's all just theory anyhow...
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05-01-2012, 12:15 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Name: Sam
Trailer: 1977 Boler
Kansas
Posts: 104
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Whoops, missed the 4-pin part in the original post - never mind my recommendation above! (but, for anyone else considering brake controllers, the RF has absolutely been worth the extra cost for us).
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05-01-2012, 01:22 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Name: Jon
Trailer: Escape 21C
New York
Posts: 2,387
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Actually I was referring to the original post.
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05-01-2012, 03:05 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Name: John
Trailer: gave up!!
California
Posts: 238
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I think I am going to get that Tekonsha that Melissa linked to because I got an idea when I saw it. I realized all I have to do is rig a 12v extension cord with alligator clips at one end and the socket at the other, stick them on the battery and hook up the controller to it... Then I can use the brakes properly with a dolly.
Yay!
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05-01-2012, 03:07 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Name: John
Trailer: gave up!!
California
Posts: 238
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OH... I could maybe rig something to get the power and ground from the trailers cord too.... hmmmm....
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05-01-2012, 05:22 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Trailer: Casita Spirit Deluxe 2003 16 ft
Posts: 1,899
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon Vermilye
Actually I was referring to the original post.
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No problem then. I wasn't sure.
It was pointed out to me in a separate email that the instructions for the Tekonsha say that it will still work even if it's not plugged into the tow. I missed that in my quick scan. It seems like they've already done what I was proposing. I'm a day late and a dollar short again
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05-02-2012, 10:05 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Name: Russ
Trailer: Scamp 16' side dinette, Airstream Safari 19'
California
Posts: 588
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve L.
No problem then. I wasn't sure.
It was pointed out to me in a separate email that the instructions for the Tekonsha say that it will still work even if it's not plugged into the tow. I missed that in my quick scan. It seems like they've already done what I was proposing. I'm a day late and a dollar short again
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Yes, I think it remembers the sensitivity setting from when it was last plugged in to the vehicle. To change the sensitivity it must be plugged in breifly, and can then be used at the newer setting. That way if a user were to forget to plug it into the cig lighter he would still have brakes. Also you could unplug the controller, charge your cell phone or other use of the cig socket. Sensitivity usually is only changed for loaded vs unloaded towing or wet or icy roads anyway.
Russ
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05-02-2012, 12:37 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Name: John
Trailer: gave up!!
California
Posts: 238
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ruscal
Yes, I think it remembers the sensitivity setting from when it was last plugged in to the vehicle. To change the sensitivity it must be plugged in breifly, and can then be used at the newer setting. That way if a user were to forget to plug it into the cig lighter he would still have brakes. Also you could unplug the controller, charge your cell phone or other use of the cig socket. Sensitivity usually is only changed for loaded vs unloaded towing or wet or icy roads anyway.
Russ
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It does remember what its last setting was if signal to the controller is lost. But you also have NO manual override if the remote is not powered.
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05-02-2012, 06:47 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Name: Russ
Trailer: Scamp 16' side dinette, Airstream Safari 19'
California
Posts: 588
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John_M
It does remember what its last setting was if signal to the controller is lost. But you also have NO manual override if the remote is not powered.
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Yes, that is true. The manual overide is nice to have for testing the system periodically. I like to know the brakes are doing their thing! It's good to feel the Scamp slow the 4500 pound Jeep down.
Russ
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05-07-2012, 12:58 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Name: john
Trailer: scamp 13
Michigan
Posts: 1,318
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knowing the weird stuff 12vt dc current tends to do....i would just go without the brakes. but only far enough to get a brake controler installed.
or....if i was shopping for a trailer with brakes,,,i would go ahead and install the controler knowing i was going to need to anyway. thus i would be prepared for finding a once in a lifetime deal on the perfect trailer.
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