Can we tow a Boler? States seem different

[rvlooking]

Our dream of an RV is not looking good! Have a 4 cyl Nissan Xtrail that gas a limit of 2,000 lbs, takes only a class 1 hitch that bolts to the floor I believe. Looked at a 1977 boler - spec said 2200 lbs; a dealer has a 1981 that says has a weight of 1200 lbs - who to believe and what to do? Wait till can replace tow vehicle?

[Rick Mooyman]

My 1971 13' Boler with out gear is 1200#. Are you looking at a 13 or 17' Boler? The 17' would be around the 2200#

[rvlooking]

Good question - was not even paying attention to that.

Anything else obvious we should be looking at before buying, and how do you like your trailer - do you wish you had something different now that you've owned a Boler?

[Rick Mooyman]

My Son and I co-own the 71 Boler and striped it right down and rewired and redid the entire interior. Now thinking of the exterior. I am looking for another one to do but want just the empty shell and frame. I want to do a front kitchen and make the bed in the back wider at the shoulder/head area. It is just my wife and I so we dont need the front bunk bed. Got all kinds of ideas in my head and have followed a few threads on this site on similar ideas. I love the size of the Boler, the only problem i find with them is the narrow bed in the back, so by getting the side kitchen out of the way will solve that problem.

[Robin G]

Welcome to the forum! Glad you joined us....... It's not about can you tow it? It's about can you tow it safely!!!!!!!!!

My recommendation would be to weigh the trailer your looking to purchase. DONT, and I repeat DONT go by manufactures specs.


It's worth the $8 to $15 to know what it weights. Spec's don't include fridge, propane tanks, A/C etc........ So the only way to really know the weight is to weigh it...... Then you know for sure if your under your tow cap and can safely get yourself set up for towing........ You don't say if you will have occupants as well as your camping gear? For every occupant of the vehicle the tow capacity goes down. Again, it's not about can your vehicle tow it, it's about can it tow it safely!

[Ogre]

Originally Posted by rvlooking

Our dream of an RV is not looking good! Have a 4 cyl Nissan Xtrail that gas a limit of 2,000 lbs, takes only a class 1 hitch that bolts to the floor I believe. Looked at a 1977 boler - spec said 2200 lbs; a dealer has a 1981 that says has a weight of 1200 lbs - who to believe and what to do? Wait till can replace tow vehicle?

we just bought a 1974 13' and we have a 2005 xtrail with a standard transmission. It towed it quite easily but we live on the prairies so no hills. We allow a lot of room to stop and it seemed ok...whether it was safe or not is debatable. We are looking at an old ford halfton instead as once you load up the trailer and luggage we are well over the 2000 limit. I have read the auto trans are better for towing as they have additional cooling for the transmission

[RogerDat]

This list of weights was collected at a rally by one of the members, a most valuable resource for knowing what each brand and size of trailer will weigh loaded and on the road "in the real world".

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...rld-43010.html

I would also add that talking to a trailer builder and hitch installer to verify what you can use for a hitch. And consider trailer brakes, always a good safety option but becomes more important the closer you are to max tow capacity.

You might be aware certain models of FG campers are double wall vs single wall, some are wider body for the same length or have wide body models. Both of these will tend to increase weight for the same "size" camper. As will items such as bathroom holding tanks, air conditioner, microwave, second battery, second propane tank etc.

[RogerDat]

Originally Posted by Ogre

.... I have read the auto trans are better for towing as they have additional cooling for the transmission

Auto trans really requires the additional cooling, and adding a supplemental trans cooler is a very good investement, typically under $200 as opposed to thousands for trans repairs if the fluid over heats even just once.

Simplified version: Manual trans is gears in an oil bath, auto is using fluid under pressure, if that fluid gets too hot it gets thin and the trans slips, eating up the internal parts. Smokes em like riding the clutch smokes a clutch.

Auto can be a whole lot easier backing into a steep driveway or campsite than trying to feather the clutch. Just my opinion, worth what you paid for it.

[Ogre]

After our last trip we had a pretty strong head wind and our Xtrail and it's four cylinder had trouble maintaining 45 miles per hour so we traded it in for a 2011 Nissan Pathfinder. Haven't had a chance to try towing yet but it should be better as this vehicle has a 6000 lb towing capacity and a full frame

[Pam Garlow]

I bought my camper, then 'traded up' to a small SUV (Ford Escape 6cyl). The adjustment in gas mileage (298mpg down to 26mpg) has been well worth it. Love my Egg!

[Donna D.]

I think the original OP bailed on us: Last Activity: 07-15-2012 05:04 AM

[Kinslayer]

Originally Posted by Pam Garlow

I bought my camper, then 'traded up' to a small SUV (Ford Escape 6cyl). The adjustment in gas mileage (298mpg down to 26mpg) has been well worth it. Love my Egg!

that's quite the milage drop!

Originally Posted by RogerDat

Auto trans really requires the additional cooling, and adding a supplemental trans cooler is a very good investement, typically under $200 as opposed to thousands for trans repairs if the fluid over heats even just once.

Simplified version: Manual trans is gears in an oil bath, auto is using fluid under pressure, if that fluid gets too hot it gets thin and the trans slips, eating up the internal parts. Smokes em like riding the clutch smokes a clutch.

Auto can be a whole lot easier backing into a steep driveway or campsite than trying to feather the clutch. Just my opinion, worth what you paid for it.

Yeah. Auto trannies have coolers because they NEED coolers. They slip when the motor can't pull at that RPM and generally have fewer gears.

Standards are what you want if you want your tranny to last when towing. But as has been stated, a correctly sized/cooled automatic will do just fine as well.

PS the Boler manual states that curb weight for a dry 17 is around 2200lbs, and to judge loaded weight you add 20% or 400lbs whichever is higher (I might be off on those numbers but it's close) so I generally judge 2500-2600lbs for my 17.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by Kinslayer

Auto trannies... generally have fewer gears.

That was true, traditionally. Automatics now typically have six or more gears, while manuals have essentially topped out at six (too much shifting to use more). In addition, the conventional automatic has that torque converter to tweak the ratio even finer.

Originally Posted by Kinslayer

PS the Boler manual states that curb weight for a dry 17 is around 2200lbs, and to judge loaded weight you add 20% or 400lbs whichever is higher (I might be off on those numbers but it's close) so I generally judge 2500-2600lbs for my 17.

That's quite optimistic. My B1700 with just original equipment weighed almost 2400 pounds (the advertised wet weight) when dry, and although we never carried much stuff (by the standards of many people) that still added up to about 3000 pounds loaded.