Compact Jr Spring Advise

[rainjer]

I just picked up a 1972 CJR yesterday. It looks the drivers side spring has flattened out so I plan on replacing them. What size and weight capacity should I use?



Jeremy

[kootenaigirl]

That's a cute one from Spokane area right, I saw it advertised.
Have you got more pics, looks great.

[rainjer]

Yes, we picked it up yesterday. 650 mile and 15 hours round trip. I do have more pictures on my wife's phone. I will post them later.

[WaltP]

You might get by with a 2,000 lb axle, but I really recommend a 3500 lb. The peace of mind for a small cost difference is worth it. Dexter makes good axles in this range and the ones that go with springs are very reasonable in price.

Walt

[Tom Trostel]

To add to Walt's points, now is the time to add brakes.

[Fallon]

Weigh it, add the expected weight of all your gear & fluids. Then add a good safety margin, at least 20%. 3500 might be good, or it might end up being overkill. Overkill is fine for support, but it will make the trailer ride really rough subjecting it to more abuse & impact than the right rated one.

Sent from my A0001 using Fiberglass RV mobile app

[WaltP]

Fallon's point is valid. I just didn't think you'd wind up much lower than 2,000 lb and I think the next size up is 3,500 lb. And BTW, I added the Dexter shock absorber kit to my 3500 pounder for a smoother ride.

Depending on the state, brakes are required anywhere from 1,000 lb to 3,000 lb.
My 13' Casita didn't have brakes and I wouldn't do that again.

Walt

[Fallon]

Originally Posted by WaltP

Fallon's point is valid. I just didn't think you'd wind up much lower than 2,000 lb and I think the next size up is 3,500 lb. And BTW, I added the Dexter shock absorber kit to my 3500 pounder for a smoother ride.

Depending on the state, brakes are required anywhere from 1,000 lb to 3,000 lb.
My 13' Casita didn't have brakes and I wouldn't do that again.

Walt

Brakes probably aren't needed, until the one time they are. It only takes once when you need that extra couple feet of braking distance reduction or the ability to stop a fishtail to pay for them ten times over. I wouldn't ever replace an axle & not get brakes, regardless of what was on there before.

They don't cost that much or add much weight, but they can literally be a life saver. Well worth it.

[David B.]

I believe Jeremy was talking about replacing the leaf springs only, and wanting to know what spring rate to use, and not replacing the entire axle.

[Fallon]

Ah, was thinking of torsion axles where you have to replace the whole axle, not leaf springs.

[David B.]

Originally Posted by rainjer

I just picked up a 1972 CJR yesterday. It looks the drivers side spring has flattened out so I plan on replacing them. What size and weight capacity should I use?



Jeremy

You can also just have the springs "re-arched" instead of replacing them.

[rainjer]

It turns out here are 2 different springs on the trailer so I be replacing them rigth away. I need to figure out what length I need also. You can see the angle of the rear hanger in this pic.



I am being tol the rear attacment sould be angled towads the back.


This is how mine are installed. Just not much angle.


Jeremy

[rainjer]

BTW - The axle may be done also. The ride hight is only 10". I need to raise it 3-4" if possible. I am going to try move the axle under the springs when I replace them to see how much I gain. If that does not work then I will order a straight axle with brake flanges for future use.

Jeremy

[Eddie Longest]

Jeremy
If you want to raise the trailer I would go with a 2K straight axle,springs and all new hardware. Don't forget to order bushings for your shackle attaching point and springs. I just rebuilt a Trails West axle set up and spent a lot of time researching parts and in some cases had to use some of the old parts. Remember when you raise the trailer your coupler will also be raised.
My experience with these types of trailers is they tend not to ride as smoothly as trailers with the flex axles.
These axles are fairly inexpensive even when ordered from Dexter. When ordering from Dexter you can get exactly what you want as far as options.
Eddie

[WaltP]

I went with the straight axle because otherwise the axle clearance is too low as far as I'm concerned. And as I said earlier I added the inexpensive shock absorber kit to smooth out the ride.

Walt

[rainjer]

I need to raise the coupler. I had ot use a 2" drop on my Outback. The jack was dragging comming out of the gas station.... On my other 2 trailers I have the receiver flipped to a 2" lift.

Any chance you have the specs and part #'s of what you ordered?

Jeremy

[WaltP]

Originally Posted by rainjer

I need to raise the coupler. I had ot use a 2" drop on my Outback. The jack was dragging comming out of the gas station.... On my other 2 trailers I have the receiver flipped to a 2" lift.

Any chance you have the specs and part #'s of what you ordered?

Jeremy

No, sorry, but if you call Dexter they are generally very helpful and very knowledgeable.
Someone else asked recently and I couldn't track it down.

Walt