Converting 4pin to 7pin

[ChrisDunbar]

My truck is currently wired for 4 pin along with the trailer. The trailer, however, does have brakes and the wires have been nipped to convert to 4 pin. For whatever reason. Anyway...I would like to switch everything back to 7. I'm just a little confuse about what I need for the truck. Is something like this the ticket? https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00...f_rd_i=desktop

The current 4 pin on my Ford Escape is wired through the brake lights and up to the battery. Am I right that the unit in the link plugs into the existing 4 way and then has the extra wiring for the controller, alternator, etc.?

[mszabo]

Yep

[Joe Romas]

As I understand what you wrote the trailer pig tail has also been cut back to 4 pins

When you get to that part there are TWO standards for wiring on the trailer 7 FLAT pin pigtail.

There's the "RV standard" color coding and the "Traditional standard".

The pin positions around the 7 pin plug are the same but the colors are different.

Easiest way to figure out what you have is determining what color wire lights the tail and running lights!

If it's GREEN you have the RV standard, BROWN if it's traditional standard.

Don't ask me why we have standards that are then not followed.

Joe

[ChrisDunbar]

Originally Posted by Joe Romas

As I understand what you wrote the trailer pig tail has also been cut back to 4 pins

When you get to that part there are TWO standards for wiring on the trailer 7 FLAT pin pigtail.

There's the "RV standard" color coding and the "Traditional standard".

The pin positions around the 7 pin plug are the same but the colors are different.

Easiest way to figure out what you have is determining what color wire lights the tail and running lights!

If it's GREEN you have the RV standard, BROWN if it's traditional standard.

Don't ask me why we have standards that are then not followed.

Joe

Yep. It's been cut back. Thanks for the heads up.

[Wayne Collins]

As you know, the 4 pin provides for tail/stop/turn lights and a ground wire.

When your trailer has brakes, and a battery, you need one 12 volt "hot" wire. from your truck battery direct to the 7 pin connector.
And another 12 V wire to supply power to the brake controller, and from it to the 7 pin.
If you're not sure, It may be best to take it to a trailer shop and let them install everything.

[Barb and Alan]

The Amazon link appears to be for a plug that has 7 pins but only supports 4 wires going in. You'll not have brakes if that's the case or a 12V feed from your TV.

[Joe Romas]

Originally Posted by Deadhead517

The Amazon link appears to be for a plug that has 7 pins but only supports 4 wires going in. You'll not have brakes if that's the case or a 12V feed from your TV.

WRONG! That's what the BLACK, WHITE, BLUE and YELLOW WIRES ARE FOR

His question is

Am I right that the unit in the link plugs into the existing 4 way and then has the extra wiring for the controller, alternator, etc.?
Joe

[Byron Kinnaman]

The best advice is to take your tow vehicle and trailer to trailer shop and have them wire thing properly. Attempting to so otherwise without knowledge is risky at best. Trailer fires aren't fun.

[Joe Romas]

Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman

The best advice is to take your tow vehicle and trailer to trailer shop and have them wire thing properly. Attempting to so otherwise without knowledge is risky at best. Trailer fires aren't fun.

On another thread or forum maybe two owners did just that and neither "Expert" including a Toyota dealer hooked up the back up lights

[John in Michigan]

ChrisDunbar, 18 months ago I was faced with the same situation as you:

- I had to add a brake controller in my 2011 Ford Escape which was NOT pre-wired. This requires:
1. Running a wire (red) from the brake light switch wire under the dash to the brake controller.
2. Running + and - power wires (black and white) from the tow vehicle battery through the firewall to the brake controller.
3. Running a brake power wire (blue) from the brake controller to the 7 blade connector in the tow vehicle.
4. Mounting the brake controller (I put a mounting block in the console tray. There is not enough space under the dash.)

- On my Trillium 4500, I had to wire the 7 blade connector. PO had a 6 pin connector. Also I replaced and connected new brakes.

I agree with Byron K that the brake wiring particularly the wiring in the tow vehicle is best left to a knowledgeable mechanic, unless you have vehicle wiring skills.

John

EDIT: The Trillium, Boler and most other FGRVs don't have back up lights, so wiring in the backup light wire at the 7 blade connector on the tow vehicle is unnecessary.

[Randy B.]

Originally Posted by ChrisDunbar

My truck is currently wired for 4 pin along with the trailer. The trailer, however, does have brakes and the wires have been nipped to convert to 4 pin. For whatever reason. Anyway...I would like to switch everything back to 7. I'm just a little confuse about what I need for the truck. Is something like this the ticket?
The current 4 pin on my Ford Escape is wired through the brake lights and up to the battery. Am I right that the unit in the link plugs into the existing 4 way and then has the extra wiring for the controller, alternator, etc.?

This Converts your 4 pin to 7 to battery an breakers also wiring for brake Controller. Its what I installed on My Mercury Mariner!

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...ler/ETBC7.html

You will also need a brake Controller (Proportional Controller cost a little more or Time Delayed) Look at 125 - 360 degree self leveling.

https://www.etrailer.com/s.aspx?qry=...-sb-Price-pa-1

If your handy with Tools you can buy it all and install for less than $150

[Joe Romas]

Originally Posted by John in Michigan

ChrisDunbar, 18 months ago I was faced with the same situation as you:

EDIT: The Trillium, Boler and most other FGRVs don't have back up lights, so wiring in the backup light wire at the 7 blade connector on the tow vehicle is unnecessary.

Flimsy excuse, do the job right or not at all
So happens my Casita does have backup lights.
And it appears here that Scamp does too.
http://www.scamptrailers.com/ask-sca.../exterior.html

The factory harness I installed in my 06 Liberty and the factory installed 7 pin in my Silverado both have the backup lights active.

Joe

[Jon in AZ]

"Right" only needs to mean safe. It doesn't have to mean complete. I see no reason you have to run extra wires in the tow vehicle to support a function that doesn't exist on the trailer or isn't needed. If you don't have or need back-up lights, why wire them? If you don't have a battery or need on-road charging capability, why wire a charge line?

Of course, if you think you might want those functions in the future, best to do it all at once.

[ChrisDunbar]

Ugh. I knew I'd regret asking an electrical question. Thanks for the helpful responses.

[John in Michigan]

Electrical questions, tire questions, solar questions... Fun!

[John in Michigan]

Originally Posted by Joe Romas

Flimsy excuse, do the job right or not at all
So happens my Casita does have backup lights.
And it appears here that Scamp does too.
http://www.scamptrailers.com/ask-sca.../exterior.html

The factory harness I installed in my 06 Liberty and the factory installed 7 pin in my Silverado both have the backup lights active.

Joe

Joe Romas, I have to agree with you that it makes sense to go ahead and attach the tow vehicle backup wire to the center pin on the 7 blade connector.

[steve dunham]

I don't know what year your tow vehicle is but on newer vehicles the factory IBC is tied into the vehicle's computer. The brake controller is programmed to work with the vehicles ABS , anti sway, traction control , vehicle brakes etc . My factory brake controller can be set and can be visually monitored on my EVIC.
IE; If my trailer brakes accidently become disconnected while towing , I get a warning light on my EVIC screen
This requires that not only must the brake controller have the 4 wires to run the brakes but a cable must be run to link the brake controller to the computer and the computer must be programmed to accept the signal.
Installing a brake controller is a DIY project (maybe) but installing the computer link and programming means going to the dealer.
Many dealers charge $300 to $500 for this service.
I am not telling you that you can't DIY or you have to integrate the brake controller to the vehicle just the problems I ran into.
When I bought my 2014 truck I purchased the factory IBC at a cost of $230 . I could not install an after market brake controller for anywhere near that price and I didn't try.
Again , I am not familiar with your vehicle , so disregard my comments if they don't apply to you.