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Old 03-24-2022, 08:18 PM   #1
Senior Member
 
Name: John
Trailer: T@B
British Columbia
Posts: 296
Dewinterized and ready to roll for the year...with one question...

Hi all. We are all dewinterized and ready to roll for the season. Quickl question. We never felt the need to get one of those sway control thingies. Trailer feels nice, feels solid and we are not experiencing any issues. But a number of folks have been surprised that we don’t use sway control. Those who are using them.

1. Did you install them because you had a problem.
2. Did you install them as a precautionary measure?
3. How are your results?

Here are a couple snaps of the combo. Geometry is good and the SUV outweighs the trailer by about 1000 pounds.

Thanks all for your input.



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Old 03-25-2022, 06:34 AM   #2
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Name: You can't call me Al
Trailer: SOLD: 1977 Scamp 13'
Massachusetts
Posts: 824
I'm not an expert in ANY way, but you can try gently to instigate some sway while driving down an abandoned road and see if your particular setup is stable.

BE CAREFUL YOU DON"T HURT HURT please!

It does somewhat depend on the amount of weight is pushing down on your trailer hitch. Have you measured that with a bathroom scale and a stick? It would be good to know that and the weight of your trailer.

And I have NO IDEA about the towing capacity of your vehicle. Does the manufacturer say how much it's able to tow?

These guys didn't use a sway-control hitch, so if you're like them, you don't need one either. :-)

It sounds like you've got a stable setup, so I hope it keeps working for you.

Camp on dudes!
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Old 03-25-2022, 07:03 AM   #3
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Name: John
Trailer: T@B
British Columbia
Posts: 296
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlanKilian View Post
I'm not an expert in ANY way, but you can try gently to instigate some sway while driving down an abandoned road and see if your particular setup is stable.

BE CAREFUL YOU DON"T HURT HURT please!

It does somewhat depend on the amount of weight is pushing down on your trailer hitch. Have you measured that with a bathroom scale and a stick? It would be good to know that and the weight of your trailer.

And I have NO IDEA about the towing capacity of your vehicle. Does the manufacturer say how much it's able to tow?

These guys didn't use a sway-control hitch, so if you're like them, you don't need one either. :-)

It sounds like you've got a stable setup, so I hope it keeps working for you.

Camp on dudes!
Thanks for the tips. We are within the specs of the vehicle for both tow capacity and tongue weight when fully loaded for camping. We did use a bathroom scale and actually don’t have to use the stick method because the scale goes to 400 and our tongue weight is actually around 335 ish. Roughly 10 percent of the loaded weight.

I think we’ll go a month or two and see how it goes. Feels solid and we have done a little test swerving to see if it gets wonky. All good. The car has 447 horsepower so the power to weight ratio is fantastic. We are experienced towers so are used to keeping the speed down with short wheel bases like this. I know high speed towing can get freaky with short wheel bases.

Thanks for the input.

Safe travels.
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Old 03-25-2022, 09:51 AM   #4
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Name: You can't call me Al
Trailer: SOLD: 1977 Scamp 13'
Massachusetts
Posts: 824
Nice.

What kind of car is that?
It looks swanky.
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Old 03-25-2022, 09:59 AM   #5
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Name: John
Trailer: T@B
British Columbia
Posts: 296
That’s a Tesla model Y with the boost option so it has 447 horsepower. It’s a nice towing combo.
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Old 03-25-2022, 10:47 AM   #6
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Name: You can't call me Al
Trailer: SOLD: 1977 Scamp 13'
Massachusetts
Posts: 824
Well that is cool then.

All electric towing. You're the start of the future man.

Please keep up in the loop on your adventures.
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Old 03-25-2022, 11:10 AM   #7
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Name: John
Trailer: T@B
British Columbia
Posts: 296
Will do. We started our bookings already. Mostly local. But after the May long weekend we are headed to Quebec City from B.C. where we live. Planning an 8 to 10 week tour depending on weather etc. Combination of camping, hiking and family visiting. Should be a blast.
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Old 03-25-2022, 12:00 PM   #8
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Name: Jon
Trailer: 2008 Scamp 13 S1
Arizona
Posts: 11,964
Registry
Sway control devices are not meant to correct an unstable set-up. Always start with a stable tow under normal driving conditions (which you seem to have), then add sway control for an unusual situation, such as an emergency lane change or a sudden side gust of wind. Understand that a sway bar can only do so much, and no mechanical aid is a substitute for conservative, defensive driving.

It's a lot like seat belts. You can drive a lifetime and never actually need one. They won't save you in all possible scenarios. But in combination with careful driving, they increase your odds. Your call. Some manufacturers recommend their use over a certain trailer weight. Check your owner's manual.

Speed is the biggest single factor in sway accidents. All bumper pull trailers will tend to sway at some speed, and you want that speed to be well above all reasonable towing speeds. The threshold depends on weight distribution in the trailer and tow vehicle, the geometry of the hitch location in relation to trailer and tow vehicle axles, tow vehicle wheelbase, suspension characteristics, and other variables.

I normally tow at no more than 65 mph in ideal conditions, but I have tested my rig in speed increments up to 70 mph on an open stretch of interstate with no nearby traffic. As Alan suggests, I give the steering wheel a small wiggle and watch how the trailer responds. It should come right back into line with just a few damped oscillations. As you approach the threshold of instability, the oscillations will be wider and take longer to die out.

Tongue weight is important and it's the first thing to check, but the change that really made a difference in how our trailer handled was getting weight off the ends and into the center of the trailer. We started out towing with two bikes on the back, balanced by moving other heavy gear to the front of the trailer to maintain 12% tongue weight. When a part on our bike rack broke on the eve of a trip, we found a way to stow the bikes inside the trailer, with all the heavy stuff over the axle. The difference was striking. Total weight and tongue weight were unchanged (minus the rack), but the trailer tracked like a sports car and small oscillations died out almost immediately. We retired the bike rack permanently.

We were in Quebec City in 2019. Charming city!
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Old 03-25-2022, 12:05 PM   #9
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Name: John
Trailer: T@B
British Columbia
Posts: 296
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon in AZ View Post
Sway control devices are not meant to correct an unstable set-up. Always start with a stable tow under normal driving conditions (which you seem to have), then add sway control for an unusual situation, such as an emergency lane change or a sudden side gust of wind. Understand that a sway bar can only do so much, and no mechanical aid is a substitute for conservative, defensive driving.

It's a lot like seat belts. You can drive a lifetime and never actually need one. They won't save you in all possible scenarios. But in combination with careful driving, they increase your odds. Your call. Some manufacturers recommend their use over a certain trailer weight. Check your owner's manual.

Speed is the biggest single factor in sway accidents. All bumper pull trailers will tend to sway at some speed, and you want that speed to be well above all reasonable towing speeds. The threshold depends on weight distribution in the trailer and tow vehicle, the geometry of the hitch location in relation to trailer and tow vehicle axles, tow vehicle wheelbase, suspension characteristics, and other variables.

I normally tow at no more than 65 mph in ideal conditions, but I have tested my rig in speed increments up to 70 mph on an open stretch of interstate with no nearby traffic. As Alan suggests, I give the steering wheel a small wiggle and watch how the trailer responds. It should come right back into line with just a few damped oscillations. As you approach the threshold of instability, the oscillations will be wider and take longer to die out.

Tongue weight is important and it's the first thing to check, but the change that really made a difference in how our trailer handled was getting weight off the ends and into the center of the trailer. We started out towing with two bikes on the back, balanced by moving other heavy gear to the front of the trailer to maintain 12% tongue weight. When a part on our bike rack broke on the eve of a trip, we found a way to stow the bikes inside the trailer, with all the heavy stuff over the axle. The difference was striking. Total weight and tongue weight were unchanged (minus the rack), but the trailer tracked like a sports car and small oscillations died out almost immediately. We retired the bike rack permanently.
Thanks for a great write up. I think we are on the right track. Two thumbs up.
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Old 03-25-2022, 03:18 PM   #10
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Name: Pat
Trailer: 2006 Scamp 19 Deluxe
Enchanted Mountains of Western New York State on the Amish Trail in Cattaraugus County!
Posts: 621
When all loaded up and ready for 1st trip, go get each axle, both car and trailer weighted. Compare that to what your car axles and tires allow, same with trailer axle and tires. Also get your trailer tongue weighted. You might be able to weight the tongue with bathroom scales, but make sure they go up to 400 lbs. That should not be more that what your trailer hitch on car allows. Come back and let us know all the weights!!!
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Old 03-25-2022, 04:27 PM   #11
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Name: John
Trailer: T@B
British Columbia
Posts: 296
Quote:
Originally Posted by parmm View Post
When all loaded up and ready for 1st trip, go get each axle, both car and trailer weighted. Compare that to what your car axles and tires allow, same with trailer axle and tires. Also get your trailer tongue weighted. You might be able to weight the tongue with bathroom scales, but make sure they go up to 400 lbs. That should not be more that what your trailer hitch on car allows. Come back and let us know all the weights!!!
Thanks Parma.

We have that already done. The trailer loaded including smokies and beer sits around 3370 to 3420 pounds. Hitch weight around 340 at its heaviest but fluctuates with water. The fresh water tank and dual AGM’s are just behind the axle so it goes up and down a bit. The car is under as well but varies depending on what we bring. We are not pack rats and know to watch the accumulating of junk. 30 years of RVing has taught us a little bit. .

The reality is with these little teardrops there just isn’t that much storage. Outside storage is minimal and inside storage has to be planned carefully. We put a few small things in the SUV hatch but we have a chihuahua that travels back there so it’s mostly open.
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Old 03-25-2022, 10:23 PM   #12
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Name: Jann
Trailer: Casita
Colorado
Posts: 1,308
Quote:
Originally Posted by Travellers View Post
Hi all. We are all dewinterized and ready to roll for the season. Quickl question. We never felt the need to get one of those sway control thingies. Trailer feels nice, feels solid and we are not experiencing any issues. But a number of folks have been surprised that we don’t use sway control. Those who are using them.

1. Did you install them because you had a problem.
2. Did you install them as a precautionary measure?
3. How are your results?

Here are a couple snaps of the combo. Geometry is good and the SUV outweighs the trailer by about 1000 pounds.

Thanks all for your input.



We use a sway control bar. It is simple. There's a ball on the side of the tongue of the trailer and one on the tow vehicle on the receiver. The sway bar hooks to each ball. We have felt like it has been useful in wind, when big trucks pass us and if we'd ever swerve quickly it would help control the sway. It would be worth the small cost for the extra protection. We've seen several trailers roll and possibly a sway bar would have helped. Our Tahoe feels solid with our trailer but we just like the extra safety. We towed a utility trailer without one and I didn't like it.
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Old 03-25-2022, 10:28 PM   #13
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Name: John
Trailer: T@B
British Columbia
Posts: 296
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jann Todd View Post
We use a sway control bar. It is simple. There's a ball on the side of the tongue of the trailer and one on the tow vehicle on the receiver. The sway bar hooks to each ball. We have felt like it has been useful in wind, when big trucks pass us and if we'd ever swerve quickly it would help control the sway. It would be worth the small cost for the extra protection. We've seen several trailers roll and possibly a sway bar would have helped. Our Tahoe feels solid with our trailer but we just like the extra safety. We towed a utility trailer without one and I didn't like it.
Thanks for the report. That’s the type I am thinking about. Can you tell me how you set it up? What determines how tight you make it? Take me to school?
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Old 03-26-2022, 10:27 PM   #14
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Name: Jann
Trailer: Casita
Colorado
Posts: 1,308
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Originally Posted by Travellers View Post
Thanks for the report. That’s the type I am thinking about. Can you tell me how you set it up? What determines how tight you make it? Take me to school?
Our Casita came with the ball welded on the tongue for the sway bar but you can drill a hole for it also. On the receiver it was welded also I think. I will take pics tomorrow and send them to you. On another receiver we drilled a hole and bolted it on. As far as tightness the instructions are to tighten 1/4 turn after it feels tight. With pics it will make sense. The one major thing is you cannot back up with it on for very far or if you are turning while backing. We have backed up a little at a gas station but never when backing into a campsite.
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Old 03-26-2022, 10:38 PM   #15
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Name: John
Trailer: T@B
British Columbia
Posts: 296
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Originally Posted by Jann Todd View Post
Our Casita came with the ball welded on the tongue for the sway bar but you can drill a hole for it also. On the receiver it was welded also I think. I will take pics tomorrow and send them to you. On another receiver we drilled a hole and bolted it on. As far as tightness the instructions are to tighten 1/4 turn after it feels tight. With pics it will make sense. The one major thing is you cannot back up with it on for very far or if you are turning while backing. We have backed up a little at a gas station but never when backing into a campsite.
Great info. Thanks.
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Old 03-27-2022, 01:17 PM   #16
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Name: Jann
Trailer: Casita
Colorado
Posts: 1,308
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Originally Posted by Travellers View Post
Great info. Thanks.
These are the pictures I promised to send. The first one is the location of the ball on the tongue. It is bolted onto the plate and the plate is welded onto he tongue. The second one is the hitch that goes into the receiver. Trailer would connect to the ball of course. 3rd one is the sway bar hitched up. The ladder is the vehicle since I can't get my vehicle to the trailer at this time. The last one shows how to tighten the sway bar. Hope this helps.
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Old 03-27-2022, 01:18 PM   #17
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Name: John
Trailer: T@B
British Columbia
Posts: 296
Thanks Jann. What make is yours.
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Old 03-27-2022, 01:27 PM   #18
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Name: Jann
Trailer: Casita
Colorado
Posts: 1,308
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Originally Posted by Travellers View Post
Thanks Jann. What make is yours.
It says Valley Industries on the sway bar. Should show in one of the pics. That's all
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Old 03-27-2022, 01:28 PM   #19
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Name: John
Trailer: T@B
British Columbia
Posts: 296
Ah yes. I see it. Thanks again. Very helpful.
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Old 03-30-2022, 01:31 PM   #20
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Name: Bill
Trailer: Lil Snoozy / Jeep Cherokee
Pennsylvania
Posts: 406
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Travellers

I'm curious how much your range is reduced while towing with an E auto. My sister-in-law just purchased one and she sometimes caravans in our travels.
Will she be able to do 300 mile (sometimes more) stretches across western US open spaces?
In 1971 I crossed the US on a 1948 Harley and needed to carry fuel to reach places where fuel could be purchased. I imagine her in the same situation. She is towing a 15 foot stick built trailer.
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