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Old 12-17-2007, 04:29 PM   #1
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I'am looking at the Dexter axle #9

http://i.b5z.net/i/u/1080235/f/Torfl...ation_4-04.pdf

and they have 3 types of axle brackets-- low profile,high profile and side mount. Whats the advantage of the high profile over the low profile besides making the axle sit higher? (Going to replace my axle on my 13' Scamp)
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Old 12-17-2007, 07:11 PM   #2
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As I understand the choices, the side mount hanger isn't really a different bracket welded to the axle, it's an extra bracket welded to the frame so the axle's bracket can bolt to it. It adds 0.25" to the high so the side mount bracket is presumably 1/4" thick.

The high profile option just extends the bracket higher above the the point where the arm pivots; that would provide a higher ride height (the trailer sits higher on the same axle), and may in some cases be useful if the square axle tube which runs across the trailer needs to clear something under the trailer floor. It would make sense to me to order high profile rather than using a separate spacer or extreme down arm angle, if the height were required, but I would not make the trailer sit any higher than necessary.

If you look at page 3 of the complete catalog segment for 1000-2200 lb axles or the fourth page (labeled as page 13) of the Torflex information document, you'll see the three choices.
  • In the low profile, the top of the bracket is folded right down on top of the axle tube.
  • The high-profile bracket extends higher, is folded to go across under the frame, and then bends down again to meet the axle tube for support
  • Either bracket can be bolted to the side mount hanger, which is in turn welded to the frame of the trailer; without the side mount hanger, the axle's brackets are welded or top-bolted directly to the frame.
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Old 12-18-2007, 06:10 AM   #3
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I now understand the photo better as I look at it. I also think that the high profile bracket would be much stronger than the low profile.
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Old 12-18-2007, 11:32 AM   #4
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I also think that the high profile bracket would be much stronger than the low profile.
I had noticed earlier that the low profile bracket is "one-sided" - it's just an inverted "L" shape. The high-profile (and the similar AL-KO product) connects the horizontal part of the bracket to the axle tube on both edges, in an inverted "U" shape. The "U" is necessary in the high-profile or the bracket will bend under the vertical load of the axle, but it looks to me like the low-profile is probably fine, because the horizontal part is right down on the axle tube, so only the torque due to the arm length is a concern - the same torque that is tearing apart improperly installed AL-KO axles in some Scamps, by the way.
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Old 12-18-2007, 08:52 PM   #5
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the same torque that is tearing apart improperly installed AL-KO axles in some Scamps, by the way.
Brian, I've lost track - has ALKO or Scamp acknowledged a problem and/or offered a fix on the axle failures? Guess they are only happening on the 19' (5vr) unit, right?
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Old 12-18-2007, 09:01 PM   #6
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Guess they are only happening on the 19' (5vr) unit, right?
As far as I know, the 5vr is the only one having the problem, but it might be a wakeup call for all Scamp owners to check the welds on the axles...no matter what year. I consider it to be one of those "maintenance" issues.... something to check.
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Old 12-18-2007, 11:38 PM   #7
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I'am looking at the Dexter axle #9

http://i.b5z.net/i/u/1080235/f/Torfl...ation_4-04.pdf

and they have 3 types of axle brackets-- low profile,high profile and side mount. Whats the advantage of the high profile over the low profile besides making the axle sit higher? (Going to replace my axle on my 13' Scamp)
Hello, I just purchased an axle from redneck trailer supply for my 1980 13' and it looks great. It is a 2,000 lb. 4 on 4 bolt pattern with a 22.5 down angle. It has a 63" hub face with high profile brackets and 49 1/2" outside of the bracket measurements. also, the brackets on mine are turned around so that the longer flat face of the bracket faces out. I think I paid something around 160.00 with out shipping. I hope this helps!
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Old 12-19-2007, 10:02 AM   #8
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I have a 84 13' I need to put a axle in.
Original scamp axle is leading arm, scamp recommends trailing arm now and so does Dexter . Did you put a trailing arm axle in? If you put a trailing arm axle in I would like to see some pictures of your install. Also I just plan on cutting of the axle arms on the outside of the frame rails and leave the inside part. Because a have to relocate the axle foreward on the frame to a trailing arm axle to be correct.------- see photo
http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h296/imp...3/bestmount.jpg
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Old 12-19-2007, 11:13 AM   #9
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Quote:
Isaac
I have a 84 13' I need to put a axle in.
Original scamp axle is leading arm, scamp recommends trailing arm now and so does Dexter . Did you put a trailing arm axle in? If you put a trailing arm axle in I would like to see some pictures of your install. Also I just plan on cutting of the axle arms on the outside of the frame rails and leave the inside part. Because a have to relocate the axle foreward on the frame to a trailing arm axle to be correct.------- see photo
http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h296/imp...3/bestmount.jpg
Whoops- - -don't cut there! You are going to have to remove the complete old axle. If you cut there you will find out how the old axle was made!!! ( plus, a danger of fire, not even mentioning the stink of burning rubber!!!) Pull up the Dexter website and take a look how the axles are built. Larry
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Old 12-19-2007, 01:41 PM   #10
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I thought I would use a sawsall, should go very quick. I don't care if it gets ruined ---It's Shot anyway. Just need to cut off the ends. Leaving the center part on the trailer. New axle will be farther forward.
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Old 12-19-2007, 04:26 PM   #11
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I thought I would use a sawsall, should go very quick. I don't care if it gets ruined ---It's Shot anyway. Just need to cut off the ends. Leaving the center part on the trailer. New axle will be farther forward.
you could retire trying to cut through the axle stub with a sawzal. I just changed out my axle on the trillium. mine was so froze up it bent the frame instead of flexing...

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Old 12-19-2007, 09:32 PM   #12
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Brian, I've lost track - has ALKO or Scamp acknowledged a problem and/or offered a fix on the axle failures?
As I understand the discussion to date, this was a Scamp installation error, which they are resolving with individual customers. There is no indication that there is anything defective about the AL-KO axles.
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Old 12-19-2007, 11:42 PM   #13
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Isaac
I have a 84 13' I need to put a axle in.
Original scamp axle is leading arm, scamp recommends trailing arm now and so does Dexter . Did you put a trailing arm axle in? If you put a trailing arm axle in I would like to see some pictures of your install. Also I just plan on cutting of the axle arms on the outside of the frame rails and leave the inside part. Because a have to relocate the axle foreward on the frame to a trailing arm axle to be correct.------- see photo
http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h296/imp...3/bestmount.jpg
Well, I still have not installed it because I'm undecided as to how high I want the trailer to sit. Mine is also a leading arm setup and to turn it around to be a trailing arm system, I would have to "fill" in the spot where the current axle sits with small sections of rectangle tube so that the axle brackets had something to sit on ( I think ). Right now my axle is drooping so low that the axle spindle is probably at a 30 degree up angle and of course I ordered it with a 22-1/2 down which would create a "big" lift as it is. So I may just go back with the original setup which of course would be much easier, less work and not too much lift. But being as I would like to take the trailer off highway, I may just need to lift it anyway. We'll see.
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Old 12-19-2007, 11:52 PM   #14
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Well, I still have not installed it because I'm undecided as to how high I want the trailer to sit. Mine is also a leading arm setup and to turn it around to be a trailing arm system, I would have to "fill" in the spot where the current axle sits with small sections of rectangle tube so that the axle brackets had something to sit on ( I think ). Right now my axle is drooping so low that the axle spindle is probably at a 30 degree up angle and of course I ordered it with a 22-1/2 down which would create a "big" lift as it is. So I may just go back with the original setup which of course would be much easier, less work and not too much lift. But being as I would like to take the trailer off highway, I may just need to lift it anyway. We'll see.

I'm sorry, I don't think any additional tubing would be necessary since the brackets would be toward the front now.
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Old 12-20-2007, 07:05 AM   #15
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Your are correct when you say the brackets would be toward the front now. Mounting the axle bracket should be on the rectangle frame rail. I will be ordering the same setup that you have, but will not be installing until May. If you install yours before May, please send me some photos of your install.(or post them here)
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Old 12-20-2007, 01:24 PM   #16
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A Dexter Torflex bracket extends further than the arm, slightly past the axle centreline: with leading arms this means slightly ahead of the centreline; with trailing arms this means slightly behind the centreline. Doesn't this mean that the frame at the centreline area must be level with the (higher) rear frame section, and a filler (an additional bit of tubing) would be required to support the end of the bracket?

Quick sketches of leading (original) and trailing (proposed) mountings, with the filler in grey:

Click image for larger version

Name:	leading.JPG
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Click image for larger version

Name:	trailing.JPG
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Size:	14.8 KB
ID:	11153

(yes, I realize that the illustrated Torflex axle has a 22.5 degree down starting angle, and the existing one likely has an up starting angle, and is collapsing as well; also the drawing is not to scale)
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Old 12-20-2007, 02:00 PM   #17
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Very good point made. I will have to wait until spring, to see, if I have to add some material to the original frame, to support the new axle bracket location.
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Old 12-22-2007, 11:30 PM   #18
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Well, I still have not installed it because I'm undecided as to how high I want the trailer to sit. Mine is also a leading arm setup and to turn it around to be a trailing arm system, I would have to "fill" in the spot where the current axle sits with small sections of rectangle tube so that the axle brackets had something to sit on ( I think ). Right now my axle is drooping so low that the axle spindle is probably at a 30 degree up angle and of course I ordered it with a 22-1/2 down which would create a "big" lift as it is. So I may just go back with the original setup which of course would be much easier, less work and not too much lift. But being as I would like to take the trailer off highway, I may just need to lift it anyway. We'll see.
Check with Scamp to see whether your original axle used high profile bracket, plus get the rest of the options that are possible, using your VIN or model year. You can also get the original build specs for your particular axle by getting the serial number from the axle tag or stencil and calling the Dexter plant that made it. Not only is there a choice between high and standard bracket, but between inboard and outboard and between standard and reverse. In addition to the hub-hub distance you need the bracket-bracket distance....

There should be some info on Yahoo Scampers on installing a trailing axle as a replacement for a leading axle. Also some info there in the Files and Links Sections.

As far as trailer height goes, for highway towing of a trailer, the better the trailer underside matches the tow vehicle underside, the less air-dam will occur. The increased height doesn't seem to matter much because the shape is somewhat aerodynamic. OTOH, the COG will be higher, so you have to ensure that loaded weight is kept low. Now is a good time to consider welding a spacer between the frame and bracket.

A welding grinder is a good tool for axle removal as one can just grind out the previous welds.

I would suggest using the optional side-mount bracket (weld it on then bolt axle to it).

The problem Scamp has seems to be limited to the use of Al-Ko axles on the Scamp 19', where the brackets have a wrong orientation (and distance?), so the frame doesn't sit on them properly.
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