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06-10-2017, 11:49 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Name: Steve Robison
Trailer: Scamp
New Jersey
Posts: 209
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Drilling frame for safety chains
The original safety chain mount on top of the hitch of our Scamp 13 is broken and the shop is trying to charge $35 bucks just to weld the chains. I was wondering if it would be ok to drill through the frame up front to bolt on new safety chains?
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06-11-2017, 12:10 AM
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#2
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Commercial Member
Name: Jeremy
Trailer: Compact Jr and Teardrop Trailer
Washington
Posts: 93
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Some state require them to be welded. I would check you local laws first.
Jeremy
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06-11-2017, 12:17 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Name: Steve Robison
Trailer: Scamp
New Jersey
Posts: 209
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Checked already, welded or bolted is fine.
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06-11-2017, 12:24 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Trailer: Escape 17 ft
Posts: 8,317
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Probably will use up $35 in drill bits.
__________________
What happens to the hole when the cheese is gone?
- Bertolt Brecht
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06-11-2017, 12:27 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Name: Steve Robison
Trailer: Scamp
New Jersey
Posts: 209
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I have plenty of drill bits to spare but I've drilled through the bumper and the metal is pretty soft. I'm not sure if it's a different metal but if the frame up front uses the same metal then it should go through easily.
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06-11-2017, 09:20 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Trailer: U-Haul CT13
Posts: 778
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Go elsewhere ....have an eyelet welded on or drill and mount one....not sure why they're charging so much other then they can.
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06-11-2017, 09:58 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Name: Tom
Trailer: Outfitter truck campper
Colorado
Posts: 136
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$35 seems reasonable to me. Probably for a half hour minimum. Do you have any other small item to have welded at the same time that they won't charge extra for? Maybe they will include it. Whatever you decide, do it right and don't cut corners just to save a buck.
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06-11-2017, 10:30 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2004 13 ft Scamp Custom Deluxe
Posts: 8,520
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Notice that your original chain was bolted to the rear center of the coupler with only one 1/4" or 5/16" bolt in the middle of one single piece of chain.
When I converted to a vertical jack on my 13, I welded in the new cross piece for the jack but decided to bolt the new chains (plural) to the frame by drilling through the frame on each side just under the coupler.
The frame is non-hardened mild carbon steel and not difficult to drill.
This allows a simple method of chain replacement and separates the chains to allow crossing them to form a "basket".
Be sure and use grade eight bolts.
In many applications it is prohibited to weld chains.
$35 is chicken feed in today's mechanical labor market. Most low price shops are north of $80 an hour nowadays with a minimum of one hour.
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06-11-2017, 11:23 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Name: Steve Robison
Trailer: Scamp
New Jersey
Posts: 209
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Quote:
Originally Posted by floyd
Notice that your original chain was bolted to the rear center of the coupler with only one 1/4" or 5/16" bolt in the middle of one single piece of chain.
When I converted to a vertical jack on my 13, I welded in the new cross piece for the jack but decided to bolt the new chains (plural) to the frame by drilling through the frame on each side just under the coupler.
The frame is non-hardened mild carbon steel and not difficult to drill.
This allows a simple method of chain replacement and separates the chains to allow crossing them to form a "basket".
Be sure and use grade eight bolts.
In many applications it is prohibited to weld chains.
$35 is chicken feed in today's mechanical labor market. Most low price shops are north of $80 an hour nowadays with a minimum of one hour.
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Did you use eyelets as well or just bolts and washers?
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06-11-2017, 11:31 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2004 13 ft Scamp Custom Deluxe
Posts: 8,520
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluetang99
Did you use eyelets as well or just bolts and washers?
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Just bolts and washers.
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06-11-2017, 01:14 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Trailer: Scamp 16 ft Side Dinette
Posts: 1,279
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The ideal situation, is TWO chains, BOLTED to the sides of the A Frame, a distance behind the hitch ball equal to the distance of the chain loops ahead of the ball.
Drill through the vertical center of the frame member. Use Grade 5 or Grade 8 capscrews with flat washers, lock washers and nuts. The chains go to the inside.
That way, with the chains crossed, they do not stretch or droop in a turn.
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06-11-2017, 04:18 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Trailer: Trillium 2010
Posts: 5,185
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I have been trying to locate a thread dealing with holes in the frame but have not been successful. Perhaps Donna or someone else can find it. The just of it is that your frame is in compression on the top and tension on the bottom. Drilling a hole through both top and bottom weakens the frame and can lead to catastrophic failure. The pictures are rather dramatic. Cracks connecting the holes, etc. It was enough to convince me to not drill any holes in my frame. For $35, I'd pay the welder if he is good. Welding is a skill that takes time to learn and requires the right eqipment. A skilled welder is an artist. And having a relationship with a good welder could be useful in the future. Good luck, Raz
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06-11-2017, 06:15 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Trailer: Scamp 16 ft Side Dinette
Posts: 1,279
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That's true about welders. A good one that knows how and where to stick it is worth his weight in gold. But a bad one, can do more damage. Excessive heat, undercuts, etc, can cause stress risers that will, eventually, start a fatique failure.
Drilling holes through rectangular tubing must be done at the center of the vertical, wide, side, horizontally. Stay away from the top and bottom narrow surfaces. The center line is the neutral axis of the "bending beam" that is the trailer frame.
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06-11-2017, 06:52 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Name: alan
Trailer: looking
Colorado
Posts: 264
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I don't think I'd want chain welded to the frame. I can imagine wanting to replace the chain and cutting off the old and welding the new would curl my toes.
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06-11-2017, 10:17 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Name: Mike
Trailer: Bigfoot
Alberta
Posts: 211
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Drill or weld
Weld on a d ring they are good for 3500 lbs and the weld is 80000 lbs per sq inch. Try a body shop.to do it .what is the bolt rating. and the leagal cost when it fails. I have seen the results of such fails . $30.00 bucks is cheep. As in insurance appraiser we look for the last guy hoo tuched it.
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06-14-2017, 08:14 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Name: Mike
Trailer: Bigfoot
Alberta
Posts: 211
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Drill or weld
I can see why they forbid welding the chane on .not much meet there at are shop we cut them off and replace it with a large dring.like you see on a hummer tie down .we also put a heavy chane on . if you do drill do not drill on the flange .this can cause stress cracks. Thanks for the input. its nice to see how things vary from place to place Happy Trailes.
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06-19-2017, 09:06 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Name: Steve
Trailer: Scamp 13
California
Posts: 1,889
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I would not drill through the thin steel frame of the Scamp. I looped each chain around the frame on each side of the coupler and attached the chain back on itself. Then take the other end and cross it under the trailer hitch coupler then through the coupler mount on the tug hitch and back to the chain to adjust the proper length and hook it back through the chain its self. I used 2 Harbor freight chains with the snap hooks. Haul-Master®*-*Item#95021 it would have to rip the whole coupler off the frame to loose the trailer. Follow your local laws reguarding mounting your chains and if it requires welding and $35 bucks is too much check with a local muffler shop.
Watch out welding on top of the frame on the passengers side, that is where your frame numbers are stamped. You dont want to mess those up.
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06-20-2017, 06:22 AM
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#19
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Senior Member
Name: Dave
Trailer: 2010 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe
Wisconsin
Posts: 216
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Romas
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Welding has many variables in regard to actual strength, including the skill of the welder, machine, setup, filler, etc. Fasteners are graded with a known value.
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06-24-2017, 11:13 AM
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#20
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Member
Name: skalywag
Trailer: Oliver
Tennessee
Posts: 56
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Oliver now uses steel cables that are coated. These have safety hooks. They are no longer using chains. Is this a new requirement?
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