F150 for towing Scamp 13, no bath.

[Sid]

Originally Posted by Glenn Baglo

So back to the poll, have you ever applied the theory in practice?

I have Glenn.
When traveling through the Rockies you can not predict what's around the next curve even on a 4 lane. Yes I was going slowly in the right downhill lane. I encountered a very slick section where mud/clay had washed across leaving a thin film right where the highway took its sharpest turn. The sway began where the slick ended.
So yes, I did and it worked! Judging from the number of cars and trailers kissing the left guardrail I fared better than most.
Sid

[LyleB]

Originally Posted by Cathi

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Ford is only contradicting what has been a general practice for more than 50 years. If this causes a problem with their sway control system I would get an answer from Ford as to WHAT & WHY!

Yes, I believe some Fords have a controller set-up that automatically applies trailer brakes when sway is detected.[/QUOTE]

My understanding, from reading the manuals and watching videos, is that the Ford anti sway includes a sensor that detects yaw forces coming from the trailer. It then decreases engine power and applies the brakes to individual TV wheels to counter the detected yaw. Apparently, it also can apply the trailer brakes automatically if you have the factory brake controller. I believe this comes standard on all all the newer Fords that have any kind of hitch (bumper hitch on the F150) whether they have a tow package or not. Ram also has a similar system, but their's does not incorporate trailer brakes.

I have also read, however, that this is a last resort, save your butt system that requires quite severe trailer sway to kick in. Most of the advice has been to use other, conventional, anti sway devices and proper loading to prevent the situation from developing in the first place.

Perhaps it would still be acceptable to manually apply the trailer brakes to correct less severe sway, but keep your hands off the controller once the automatic system has kicked in. I think this is the tact I would take, based on what I think I understand. :-)

[Gennaver]

Originally Posted by Bob Miller

I am sure that your information is correct for Michigan, but as some states, such as California set the limit at 1500 lbs., and NY sets it at 1000 lbs., there must be a reason for the lower limits that has been learned from experience in those states. I'd opt for safety and would never tow a trailer weighing even 1500 lbs, much less close to 3000 lbs., without brakes.

I'm thankful for this thread.

My trailer is the 78 Trillium 15 foot that Randy Bishop sold me. While I don't know the exact weight of the trailer and camper I think they are under 1.5K and my 2000 Ford F150 should be able to tow it. I am going to California so am glad to read these limits.
Jen

[Gilles]

Originally Posted by Glenn Baglo

So back to the poll, have you ever applied the theory in practice?

Apply manually electric brakes on the trailer, is a practice to do occasionally.
Between 500 and 1000 miles.
It is suggested in the instructions that accompany the installation of these and I also read on the internet to conduct the audit in a large commercial parking when empty, traveling at 30 m/hr and the apply to the max to make sure they work well.

By practicing this gesture, the reflex will be automatic if necessary ...

[Bob Miller]

Originally Posted by Gilles

Apply manually electric brakes on the trailer, is a practice to do occasionally.
Between 500 and 1000 miles.
It is suggested in the instructions that accompany the installation of these and I also read on the internet to conduct the audit in a large commercial parking when empty, traveling at 30 m/hr and the apply to the max to make sure they work well.

By practicing this gesture, the reflex will be automatic if necessary ...

Your last line hits it on the head. When you learn what the manual controller can do, you are much more apt to use it as an automatic response.

I do find it interesting that the three truck makers all have different answers though.

[oldsteve]

The F150 will have no problem towing the 13'er and will not need a tranny cooler.
If you have Ford install a brake controller it will cost twice as much as a Prodigy controller of which you can buy on line and also get a harness/connector on Amazon for probably 20 bucks that hooks in up under the dash,plenty of wire to mount the controller where ever you like. The entire job done in an hour.
Take a look at the
hitch,maybe stamped or decal with the class and type.
I pull a 2014 17 Casita with my 2014 Chevy Silverado with the V6 up and down those Colorado Hills no problem.
Sway bar might be nice if not enough load on the hitch. Tow it and experiment,see if she tows in a straight line.

My 2 cents

Good luck,

OldSteve

[piperjim]

This is just me, but I would add the tranny cooler. I base this on the advice that I received several years ago after my Dodge 1500 p/u transmission had to be rebuilt at 120K miles. This truck did have a tow package, but not an auxiliary transmission cooler.

When I went to the transmission shop to pick up the truck (and write out a check for just north of $2000), I asked the tech, "How can I make this transmission last as long as possible?" He didn't miss a beat, but immediately told me there were 3 things I could do to extend the life of my rebuilt transmission:

1. Add an auxilary transmission cooler (which they did as part of the rebuild)
2. Service the transmission as specified in the owners manual (fluid and filter change every 40K miles)
3. Kick the transmission out of overdrive if I'm towing anything, carrying more than 300-400 lbs extra weight, going up-hill, or driving into a strong headwind.

I've followed their advice and have put over 180,000 additional miles on that rebuilt transmission.

Transmission coolers are cheap compared to a transmission re-build!

Good luck!

[Wayne Collins]

Don't sweat the small stuff!
An F150 will not even notice the load of pulling a 13 ft trailer.
And you don't need trailer brakes, as long as you have a tight hitch, and perhaps an anti sway bar. Just make sure the height of the hitch ball keeps the trailer level or slightly lower in front.

[Bob Miller]

Originally Posted by Wayne Collins

Don't sweat the small stuff!
An F150 will not even notice the load of pulling a 13 ft trailer.
And you don't need trailer brakes, as long as you have a tight hitch, and perhaps an anti sway bar. Just make sure the height of the hitch ball keeps the trailer level or slightly lower in front.

Considering that the OP is starting out with a 15 y.o. truck with unspecified miles on it, and, probably without any knowledge of prior service records or condition of the transmission, a transmission cooler may just be what's needed to keep everything together on a long haul, not only with the 15' Trillium, but also carrying what was mentioned earlier as a slide-in camper as well as her life's possessions.


It's sorta like insurance, you can't buy it after the fact.

[honda03842]

I would definitely get a transmission cooler. An after market product should be relatively inexpensive. It doesn't take long to ruin transmission fluid and subsequently a transmission.

Trailer brakes are great to have. If the trailer has brakes, purchase a brake controller also add a break-away switch.

[Bill Nolen]

Originally Posted by Glenn Baglo

So back to the poll, have you ever applied the theory in practice?

Yes, I have! Much better to have full brake control for a trailer than not!

Bill

[Glenn Baglo]

Obviously having control is good. Not arguing. Just wanted to hear stories of those who had actually manually applied the brakes in an emergency. Would also want to know why the 'emergency' occurred.

[musical43]

I have a 13 foot Burro trailer and a 2014 F150 with the tow package. My F150 hardly even know the trailer is there! Even going through the Rockies in Canada, I had no problem keeping up my speed or with overheating. Braking was never a problem even going down the steepest hills. You should be fine.

[LyleB]

Originally Posted by Bob Miller

Considering that the OP is starting out with a 15 y.o. truck with unspecified miles on it, and, probably without any knowledge of prior service records or condition of the transmission, a transmission cooler may just be what's needed to keep everything together on a long haul, not only with the 15' Trillium, but also carrying what was mentioned earlier as a slide-in camper as well as her life's possessions.


It's sorta like insurance, you can't buy it after the fact.

Bob,

I think you are confusing threads. I'm the OP and I have a 2014 F150, towing a Scamp 13. My truck now has just over 16000 miles, had 8700 when I bought it. It also still has 15 months of bumper to bumper warranty.

While I tend to agree these things aren't NECESSARY, I'm leaning towards adding a cooler and definitely getting some brakes when I replace the axle. Just want to make this truck last for ten years or so, that was one of the reasons for getting the overkill on a tow vehicle.

By the way, thanks everyone for your opinions and experiences.

[Bob Miller]

Originally Posted by Gennaver

I'm thankful for this thread.

My trailer is the 78 Trillium 15 foot that Randy Bishop sold me. While I don't know the exact weight of the trailer and camper I think they are under 1.5K and my 2000 Ford F150 should be able to tow it. I am going to California so am glad to read these limits.
Jen

Actually I was replying to Gennaver's post above.

[BillF]

I added a hitch to my 2011 Ford Flex that had a 'Plug & Play' connector under the dash. The hitch is for our 2010 Scamp with all options except the real wood interior. I found that the connector under the dash was only useful for connecting the brake pedal switch to the controller even though there are more wires. Looking in the fuse box under the hood showed a place for a brake controller fuse. Closer inspection of the fuse socket for the controller showed no connection for one side of the fuse. Also, there was no connector under the rear of the car for a trailer. As a result, I ended up doing the whole nine yards for the trailer wiring installation. The only real struggle was finding a place to get the wires through the bulkhead. They save money by not installing wires and connectors that are not used. So check the fuse block, if there is a fuse for the trailer brake but not installed, check if they actually put in both connectors that grab the fuse tabs. If they did, you may be good to go. Also, OEM installed controllers have a different software package installed in the ECU for automatic sway control, so I was told.

As for adding a transmission cooler, my previous tow vehicle was a 2002 Nissan Frontier 4 cylinder automatic with no trans cooler and the original trans oil. We went 9K+ miles from Mass to California and back in 6 weeks without incident except I used the bumper hitch that Scamp said would be "No Problem" and the bumper dropped about 3 inches allowing the jack to snag a few times. The trans oil still looks about the same as when we left and didn't use or lose any. I'm not adding one to the Flex.

As for surge brakes, the only surge brakes that I have seen are hydraulic brakes that are activated when the trailer pushes against the hitch. Scamps have electric brakes as standard. If you have to add electric brakes, you will have to change the Scamp connector cable also.

[Gilles]

Originally Posted by Glenn Baglo

Obviously having control is good. Not arguing. Just wanted to hear stories of those who had actually manually applied the brakes in an emergency. Would also want to know why the 'emergency' occurred.

When driving on the highway, you have to moderate because you do not have time to overtake the vehicle in front and a large truck trailer passes you at the same time, a stream of air occurs its path, the trailer starts to squeeze, you can not accelerate, it's when you apply the brakes manually so that the caravan stops this movement and it does not lead us with her in his movement.

[floyd]

I tow a Scamp13D (7" brakes) with a Ford Ranger shortbox (4.0L) with the big axle and big brakes with the ABS disabled. This truck has been worked for 15years and 170000miles so far, pulling car trailers, RV trailers, and car dollies. It is still in excellent condition and will (God willing) make another trip to FL in a couple of weeks.

A few years ago, I was westbound on I-40 at about the NC/TN border.
It was raining and had been for a day or two.
A midsized tree fell onto the highway mostly blocking the right lane.
A woman in a small car panicked and jerked her car into the left lane only a few car lengths in front of a semi-truck. She then, for no apparent reason, slammed on her brakes! The truck driver was barely able to avoid running her over as he braked HARD to a stop. We were behind the truck expecting to pass the tree and continue on down the road.
Fortunately we were following at a safe distance, but we still required an emergency stop with almost no time to flash my brake lights to warn those behind us. The brakes on my truck worked flawlessly and brought us to a safe stop. The brakes on the trailer worked as expected and slowed the trailer.
I think that 7" trailer brakes add to stopping and handling, but no more than a friction sway bar when it comes to handling. Each of which will help keep my Scamp13 behind the truck, but neither of which is necessary for safely towing such a small trailer with a vehicle which is more than up to the task to begin with.
That was the only real hard emergency stop I have had that I recall in the twelve years of towing my Scamp and it did not even raise my heartrate.
Of course there are times when hard braking is necessary in ordinary traffic most of which can be avoided with good driving habits.
Last year we drove through AL on black ice on which brakes can be at best ineffective, we saw many dozens of cars and trucks in the ditches largely IMO from traveling too fast and too close.
If you must tow in extremely bad weather... slow down and keep your distance, then get off the road if possible until conditions improve.

BTW; I have towed dozens of small fiberglass trailers and utility trailers which had no brakes. I have never encountered a situation where I felt the need for trailer brakes on any of them.
Still I find trailer brakes to be useful, and I whole heartedly endorse them.

[Joe Romas]

Well I've had a sway on a Sprit "caravan" that had surge brakes years ago an going down hill. Speeding up just was not going to happen and at the time I sure wish I had electric brakes.

2 years ago I was towing a very small open U-Haul with a 900# Kubota tractor on it with my Silverado 1500 and had to stop for a red light at 45 MPH and found out exactly how little stopping power I had with under 2000#s in tow.

At the price low cost of a aux cooler NOT having one is penny wise and pound foolish.