Fastway e2 Hitch?

[RA Ras]

Greetings,

We are getting our towing vehicle set up to pull a 19' Scamp. We are looking for sway control and weight distribution. Does anyone have experience with the Fastway e2 Hitch system? Or can you point me in the direction of other posts addressing this product? We are wondering if it is better than having CanAm in London, Ontario, install the more traditional torsion system.

https://www.fastwaytrailer.com/e2-hitch

Thanks in advance.

[Marv]

I’m not sure I understand the issue. A Fastway E2 is a “bumper pull hitch” used with a conventional trailer. I believe the Scamp 19 is a fifth wheel trailer which requires a completely different hitch. Can you clarify?

[CharlesinGA]

Also, what is a "more traditional torsion system"?

What is your tow vehicle? If this is your 16 ft as in the info to the left, you may not need anything at all. Some auto manuals say to not use WD hitches. It all depends on the combination you have of tow vehicle and trailer.

Charles

[AC0GV]

Originally Posted by RA Ras

Greetings,

We are getting our towing vehicle set up to pull a 19' Scamp. We are looking for sway control and weight distribution. Does anyone have experience with the Fastway e2 Hitch system?

The Scamp 19' is really an elevated ball hitch that they call a 5th wheel hitch.
https://www.scamptrailers.com/product/fifth-wheel-hitch
How ever, I notice in your old posts that you have a 16'. That is a standard ball hitch and will tow well without weight distribution behind a properly sized tow vehicle. Get the RV weighed and check the towing capacity on your tow vehicles door jam.

[RA Ras]

Sorry! I noticed my mistake just after I posted, but couldn't find a way to correct it. Yes, we have a 16' Scamp, not 19'. Thanks for your comments.

[Jon in AZ]

Originally Posted by RA Ras

Sorry! I noticed my mistake just after I posted, but couldn't find a way to correct it. Yes, we have a 16' Scamp, not 19'. Thanks for your comments.

And your tow vehicle is…? That’s the other half of the weight distribution question.

You will want a minimum 3500/350# tow rating. I’d agree many vehicles meeting that requirement will not need WDH, but there are exceptions. Dodge Grand Caravan and Chrysler Town and Country call for WDH over 1800# trailer weight according to the owner’s manual. Other smaller vehicles may benefit from WDH to reduce loss of front wheel traction when climbing hills on unpaved roads, or to improve ride and handling when the combination of passengers, cargo, and hitch weight puts the rear axle close to its rated weight limit.

Unless your owner’s manual says otherwise, and assuming you are within your vehicle’s weight ratings, you can always start without it. Weigh your loaded rig axle by axle, assess its towing performance, then decide.

The Fastway E2 provides integrated sway control. If you decide not to use WDH, consider installing a friction sway control device.

As an FYI, you can edit your posts up to 12 hours after posting. Look for the edit button at the bottom. After that you have to contact a moderator to make changes.

[Travellers]

Totally agree with that post. I would try without a WDH first. Our trailer is around 3400 pounds loaded and 340 pounds hitch weight. No WDH needed and it’s super fast hooking and unhooking the trailer. As well neither our SUV manufacturer (tesla) nor the trailer manufacturer (Nucamp ) recommend using one.

Jmho.

[RogerDat]

Towing a Scamp 16 ft. with a 2013 Escape V6 rated to 3,500# towing, 13 was the last year they were boxy SUV style. I find that trying to pull forward with front wheels on an uphill incline or just pulling up a sharp uphill that there is more slipping than I like.

I figure on trips driving on paved roads even a minor but continuous loss of traction is going to reduce fuel economy. Original Ford Fiesta would lose some MPG if the back was packed heavy for a trip. Could chirp the tires leaving a stop light even if pulling away normally on a hill.

Climbing a hill on a dirt forest road with loose sand on top was a struggle. I ended up backing down the hill and having to do a running start to avoid the front wheels spinning and losing all traction half way through the sandy patch. I'm not sure everyone has the lack of common sense required to drive a trailer into a sand patch at sufficient speed. Dear wife wasn't along and I sure didn't want to back all the way out so.... Not my first time but not ideal situation either.

Maneuvering to park in back yard when I find myself with front wheels climbing grassy incline and trailer on a mostly level area behind me. In this situation the front wheels want to break loose when I try to pull forward. I spent several years driving trucks into construction sites to deliver and have a fair amount of experience at dealing with poor surface and still getting through it. If I rock forward and time it I can use that initial momentum to pull forward without leaving a line in the yard from the spinning tire. Liked dealing with bad traction a lot better in a company vehicle and with my camper NOT on the back.

I'm looking at a conventional WDH vs changing to a different tow vehicle to deal with these issues. I'm less inclined to worry about sway, properly loaded and not driving in adverse conditions has been sufficient but gaining some sway mitigation is certainly not a bad thing.

All Wheel drive costs more and gets less MPG but it does have better traction in adverse conditions. A hitch that distributes the weight forward to the front wheels is a whole lot less expensive option if it works. Still not cheap but much less than payment on larger vehicle or all wheel drive vehicle.

I also like to have a good percentage of trailer weight on the ball for stability going down the road. If that becomes a balancing act between picking the front wheels up so I can't steer as well or more inclined to sway from tongue being light.