Full-timing w/4cyl SUV (rated 5000#); tow 16/17' (max ~3500#) or should stick to 13'? - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV
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Old 02-13-2020, 11:42 AM   #41
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Name: bob
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Missouri
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s means to me

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon in AZ View Post
I don’t question your experience, Bob. I’d be more interested to hear what your owner’s manual says. Also not sure what “S” means... Second? Sport?

One additional factor I have encountered with Ford crossovers is a low frontal area limit. Towing with excess frontal area makes even a flat feel like a hill to the drivetrain at cruising speeds, somewhat mitigated by the rounded shape.
jon the s to means no o/d I can operate it automatically or the paddle shift. as far as economy I take a hit towing it drops it down to 20 and 22. I have no idea of what Fords opnion is with towing on this suv either?

I put a trailer hitch on it in checking Fords trailer option the only thing I can find is a larger battery and a pre-wired trailer hook up. I think it was a high priced option to gig buyers.

Cars are far more capable than the manufactures let us thing. I am at 35k now mainly tugging and its not faltering yet.

bob
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Old 02-13-2020, 12:03 PM   #42
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It seems like a constant refrain on here. How can I tow a camper with my tiny underpowered vehicle.

Get the largest and most powerful vehicle (within reason ) you can afford. Safety should be at the top of your list. Then towing and payload ability. Then comfort. Who wants to drive long distances in a shoebox car and get out feeling miserable. Gas mileage is not a consideration. Most vehicles that you can tow in the mountains with are going to get between 12-18 mph. Leave your Subaru at home and get a truck. Unless your willing to camp in a teardrop.

Tough love for Valentines pre-day LOL. It may keep you out of a wreck or sitting beside the road waiting on a tow!

Just my opinion based on experience.
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Old 02-13-2020, 12:33 PM   #43
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It seems like a constant refrain on here. How can I tow a camper with my tiny underpowered vehicle.

Get the largest and most powerful vehicle (within reason ) you can afford. Safety should be at the top of your list. Then towing and payload ability. Then comfort. Who wants to drive long distances in a shoebox car and get out feeling miserable. Gas mileage is not a consideration. Most vehicles that you can tow in the mountains with are going to get between 12-18 mph. Leave your Subaru at home and get a truck. Unless your willing to camp in a teardrop.

Tough love for Valentines pre-day LOL. It may keep you out of a wreck or sitting beside the road waiting on a tow!

Just my opinion based on experience.
sort of depends I pulled a trailer with my 1983 volkswagon rabbit diesel even went on the interstate I picked an unbusy time! probably pulled that trailer 70m put a grasshopper mower on it and took it home!

if I saw big stuff coming I pulled over as far as I could. did I present a problem I don't think so. Now with my ford edge I am at the edge! LOL of my pulling weight book says 1500lb I think for my model but using my gears I am fine. trailer goes about 1200lbs!

do I drive 70 or 80 hell no and wouldn't with a big suv first of all I am on vacation I plan extra time driving 55 and 60. Do I present a problem at that speed people see me and slow down or get in the passing lane that s what its for right? I have even thrown the flashers on a couple of times!

I have been down some pretty steep mountains and by using paddle shift I can slow myself down using lower gears easy on brakes that way! I get behind one of the tractor trailer boys struggling and we go down together!

There is more than one way to skin a cat? Remember that?

bob
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Old 02-13-2020, 12:35 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by charlsara View Post
It seems like a constant refrain on here. How can I tow a camper with my tiny underpowered vehicle.

Get the largest and most powerful vehicle (within reason ) you can afford. Safety should be at the top of your list. Then towing and payload ability. Then comfort. Who wants to drive long distances in a shoebox car and get out feeling miserable. Gas mileage is not a consideration. Most vehicles that you can tow in the mountains with are going to get between 12-18 mph. Leave your Subaru at home and get a truck. Unless your willing to camp in a teardrop.

Tough love for Valentines pre-day LOL. It may keep you out of a wreck or sitting beside the road waiting on a tow!

Just my opinion based on experience.
👍👍👍👍👍 My bias is showing !!
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Old 02-13-2020, 12:55 PM   #45
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i hate towing

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���������� My bias is showing !!
I actually hate towing. I have tugged boats, small trailers, 32f 5th wheels, they all just wore me out for some reason.

I tented as long as I could kept everything in the trunk of the car. Loved it but back surgery did me in.

yes I am one of those guys puttering along but I always get there. it amazes me I can be on the interstates and the same cars and trucks keep repassing me.

I cant figure this out? Why aren't they at their destination?

go figure

bob
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Old 02-13-2020, 01:46 PM   #46
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sort of depends I pulled a trailer with my 1983 volkswagon rabbit diesel even went on the interstate I picked an unbusy time! probably pulled that trailer 70m put a grasshopper mower on it and took it home!

if I saw big stuff coming I pulled over as far as I could. did I present a problem I don't think so. Now with my ford edge I am at the edge! LOL of my pulling weight book says 1500lb I think for my model but using my gears I am fine. trailer goes about 1200lbs!

do I drive 70 or 80 hell no and wouldn't with a big suv first of all I am on vacation I plan extra time driving 55 and 60. Do I present a problem at that speed people see me and slow down or get in the passing lane that s what its for right? I have even thrown the flashers on a couple of times!

I have been down some pretty steep mountains and by using paddle shift I can slow myself down using lower gears easy on brakes that way! I get behind one of the tractor trailer boys struggling and we go down together!

There is more than one way to skin a cat? Remember that?

bob


I just don’t want to be the cat that gets skinned. IMHO it is not safe to drive a little vehicle that can barely tow the trailer on level ground. Especially on interstates going 55-60 when everyone else is doing seventy.
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Old 02-13-2020, 02:54 PM   #47
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Full-timing w/4cyl SUV (rated 5000#); tow 16/17' (max ~3500#) or should stick to 13'?

Are we still talking about the OP’s largish 7-passenger SUV with a 5000# tow rating and a 13-16’ molded trailer?
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Old 02-13-2020, 06:08 PM   #48
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Turbo is exactly what someone described in an earlier post. A way to have a small engine sip gas until the power is needed then the turbo can provide it.

I used to drive a mid engine truck with turbo and could hear that thing doing a high pitched whine whenever I was keeping my speed above a certain point. Would back off just a bit and the turbo would drop at 55 mph and normal grade I don't think it was even engaged.

More mechanical offers more potential for mechanical failures. And not to be ignored more expense to deal with other mechanical issues because of the additional hardware. Some cars require routine or common repair such as timing belt replacement that can involve taking a lot of the top of the engine off. More stuff there is more hours of mechanics labor so worth checking on.

I also think there was a couple of other points made I really agree with. You drive it a whole lot more without the camper than with the camper so one should assess the vehicle as a daily driver as much as a tow vehicle. Just as one should assess the camper needs without muddying the waters with tow vehicle too much. Beyond maybe setting a limit to how much trailer you feel comfortable towing.

People do seem to not consider the octane requirements sometimes when evaluating mpg ratings. Higher octane allows for higher compression engine without detonation or "ping" and higher compression is a way to squeeze more power from same displacement. However if the gas cost more one has to consider that in making a decision. Out west as the elevation goes up more stations sell a lower octane fuel as "regular" my reading said it will work but not recommended. My guess is it is handled by the computer as someone suggested by de-tuning the engine.

If the manual says it can tow the weight AND handle the tongue weight the vehicle is suitable. Don't forget to consider tongue weigh as part of gross vehicle weight when considering what you will carry in the vehicle.

Really can't overstress the trailer brakes make a huge difference in safety. If you have a 3200 pound vehicle stopping a 2500 trailer it is going to take a good long distance. And what is more you can't accelerate easily to make a light or avoid a situation. An 1800 pound trailer and a 3500 pound tow vehicle is safer but having been there and done that with and without trailer brakes I will just say "love those trailer brakes" The vehicle stops faster with trailer than without.

You might consider the Scamp 16 side dinette. Table is just about right for two and for two people it does allow one to leave the queen bed set up full time. Still have the option to make the rear bed a bigger table if needed for say family camping with and sleeping in tent. Personally I would enhance that mattress and let the family use the picnic table outside but then I'm the evil grandpa. Which I don't get. I mean it isn't like I wouldn't give them bug spray or a flashlight out there. :-)


See layout #6 or #7 https://www.scamptrailers.com/showro...-layout-3.html

I think of the 16 and 17 foot FGRV models the 16 ft. Scamp will probably be the lightest.
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Old 02-13-2020, 10:55 PM   #49
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Originally Posted by k0wtz View Post
sort of depends I pulled a trailer with my 1983 volkswagon rabbit diesel even went on the interstate I picked an unbusy time! probably pulled that trailer 70m put a grasshopper mower on it and took it home!

if I saw big stuff coming I pulled over as far as I could. did I present a problem I don't think so. Now with my ford edge I am at the edge! LOL of my pulling weight book says 1500lb I think for my model but using my gears I am fine. trailer goes about 1200lbs!

do I drive 70 or 80 hell no and wouldn't with a big suv first of all I am on vacation I plan extra time driving 55 and 60. Do I present a problem at that speed people see me and slow down or get in the passing lane that s what its for right? I have even thrown the flashers on a couple of times!

I have been down some pretty steep mountains and by using paddle shift I can slow myself down using lower gears easy on brakes that way! I get behind one of the tractor trailer boys struggling and we go down together!

There is more than one way to skin a cat? Remember that?

bob
Bob, You crack me up. You're proud of all the Cadillacs you've owned, and the many many thousands of miles you've driven them. And they are nice to drive. But when it comes time to pull a trailer, you opt for a VW Rabbit diesel!

Why give up the comfort, power, stability, larger brakes and more power of the cadi? Why not tow with the Cadillac?
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Old 02-13-2020, 11:01 PM   #50
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Something that has concerned me when traveling is if my tow vehicle breaks down will parts and repairs be available
It’s one thing when a vehicle fails and your near a large metropolitan area it’s another story when your broke down in the middle of nowhere
IE ; In our county there is only one car dealership ( GM )
In our town we have 2 auto repair shops , one is a one man shop , the other is a two man shop
We have a Napa parts store in the next town but their supply of parts is limited and most of their stock is devoted to the major auto companies
If you need an odd part plan on waiting a couple days for it to be shipped
One of the repair shops won’t work on turbo engines
( Think Eco boost) unless it’s something simple like an oil change
The other service garage will work on turbo engines but rather not and suggests that you find a dealer

My point is Brand X may be a great vehicle but if it breaks down in the middle of nowhere can you find someone in the area to fix it ? If the repair needs parts how long will it take to get them ?
How far are you willing to have the vehicle towed for repairs ?
How long are you willing to wait for repairs ?

In a our case the closest Toyota , Kia , Hundai or Honda dealer is about 100 miles away

We broke down in Ontario Canada one Spring on a fishing trip
We spent 3 days waiting for parts and for them to be installed , days we would have rather spent fishing .
The vehicle was a Chevy truck . If it was a Korean made vehicle we may still be waiting in the middle of nowhere !
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Old 02-14-2020, 07:48 AM   #51
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Full-timing w/4cyl SUV (rated 5000#); tow 16/17' (max ~3500#) or should stick to 13'?

That’s a good point, Steve. Volvo dealers are pretty much limited to major metropolitan areas. If it’s still under warranty, Volvo will take care of towing from anywhere, but they will leave the trailer sitting on the side of the road. A good roadside service plan that covers the trailer would be a good idea.

Best thing is to stay on top of scheduled maintenance to minimize the likelihood of an unexpected breakdown.

That raises an interesting question for full-timers. Do you maintain a relationship with a particular dealer or mechanic or do you just find a dealer wherever and whenever things need to be done? I have a great local guy who does everything except oil changes and warranty work. He gets to know our vehicles and I’d hate to give that up.

We live three hours from the nearest Honda dealer, and it hasn’t been a problem. Last time I had to have a vehicle towed was in the late 90’s, and it went to my local mechanic for a starter. A reliable model is preferable to a convenient dealer.

I’d at least give this vehicle a chance. No reason to trade a perfectly competent and comfortable vehicle at a loss just because it might break down.

Dealer availability is a big issue over on the Class B forum for Sprinter diesel owners. Issues with the emissions system have to go to a dealer, and not all Mercedes dealers can work on Sprinters.
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Old 02-14-2020, 07:49 AM   #52
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Missouri
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our turnpike speeds

Here in Mo. our turnpike speeds are 45min 70max with a slow speed lane and a passing lane not a cruising lane.

As long as I can maintain those speeds everything works. I have always drove 55 to 60 and never a problem. I have driven all over the country including California and Pa. which I consider the worst for driving at these speeds and not one mishap!

Matter of fact I am not sure but California might just have a 60mph for trailers. As I stated I am on vacation I am out to see things and enjoy life. I am over the need for speed I guess.

bob


Quote:
Originally Posted by charlsara View Post
I just don’t want to be the cat that gets skinned. IMHO it is not safe to drive a little vehicle that can barely tow the trailer on level ground. Especially on interstates going 55-60 when everyone else is doing seventy.
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Old 02-14-2020, 08:18 AM   #53
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Red face

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Originally Posted by Jon in AZ View Post
That’s a good point, Steve. Volvo dealers are pretty much limited to major metropolitan areas. If it’s still under warranty, Volvo will take care of towing from anywhere, but they will leave the trailer sitting on the side of the road. A good roadside service plan that covers the trailer would be a good idea.

Best thing is to stay on top of scheduled maintenance to minimize the likelihood of an unexpected breakdown.

That raises an interesting question for full-timers. Do you maintain a relationship with a particular dealer or mechanic or do you just find a dealer wherever and whenever things need to be done? I have a great local guy who does everything except oil changes and warranty work. He gets to know our vehicles and I’d hate to give that up.

We live three hours from the nearest Honda dealer, and it hasn’t been a problem. Last time I had to have a vehicle towed was in the late 90’s, and it went to my local mechanic for a starter. A reliable model is preferable to a convenient dealer.

I’d at least give this vehicle a chance.

Dealer availability is a big issue over on the Class B forum for Sprinter diesel owners. Issues with the emissions system have to go to a dealer, and not all Mercedes dealers can work on Sprinters.

I have often read on this forum when advising new FG trailer owners what they need to take along for their first trip
“ Don’t worry , if you forget or need something there is a Walmart around every corner “
There is not a Volvo dealer around every corner

My SIL owns a Volvo , nice car but it’s constantly in the repair shop , the repairs are expensive , they are never quick and easy and his choice of repair garages is limited

Unless one is retired , where you don’t have to be somewhere , a breakdowns can really screw up a trip / vacation

This is not a knock on any ones choice of vehicle but towing your trailer out in the middle of BLM land with some exotic foreign sports car is not a risk I wish to take.
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Old 02-14-2020, 08:30 AM   #54
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thanks for this

well well wifey wrecked her Cadilac I was considering one of the foreign jobs now with your info I think I will pass. I don't know what sort of crap awaits me with this stupid Ford Edge we bought but at 35k we will no doubt have to figure out some things!

I forgot my son bought a Volvo nice car his alternator broke. Cost him almost 2k and he didn't have his car for a week. So I guess for her now I am going to look at Lincoln or Cadillac again!

As you said there are Walmarts all over the place that is where we usually boondock and hit them anyway for lunch or supper!

There wasn't a Walmarts at Quartzite but there was enough stores to survive for a month there if you wanted! We just need to not get excited I guess?


Carry on

bob



QUOTE=steve dunham;768451]I have often read on this forum when advising new FG trailer owners what they need to take along for their first trip
“ Don’t worry , if you forget or need something there is a Walmart around every corner “
My SIL owns a Volvo , nice car but it’s constantly in the repair shop , the repairs are expensive , they are never quick and easy and his choice of repair garages is limited

Unless one is retired , where you don’t have to be somewhere , a breakdowns can really screw up a trip / vacation

This is not a knock on any ones choice of vehicle but towing your trailer out in the middle of BLM land with some exotic foreign sports car is not a risk I wish to take.[/QUOTE]
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Old 02-14-2020, 08:39 AM   #55
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jon i own

Jon I own a 98 Volkswagon N/B TDI. Its a mess complicated to work on. I found a local guy who can fix the critical stuff I have really never needed him. I found my local guy can fix anything on it including the big after burner! Can you believe it quit working! I got on the TDI net all of them said oh you will need a new one.

Well the answer was found by him for some reason it had blown a fuse, it needed one more part I found it on Ebay! A used part but who cares! Now at 200k it is ready for another 100k I will be long gone by then!

Now don't dare take that car to the stealership all costs will triple. Volkswagon tried their best to engeneer that car to keep the shade tree guy out but they just didn't make it!

I cant think of the last time I had my car at a dealership they are just too expensive to suit me! With the advent of these pocket scanners there is almost nothing the local mechanic cant fix.

Frankly cars are no harder to work on then they every were just the technology has changed. It has changed the way people have to think in some ways they are far more durable than ever with proper upkeep!

bob

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon in AZ View Post
That’s a good point, Steve. Volvo dealers are pretty much limited to major metropolitan areas. If it’s still under warranty, Volvo will take care of towing from anywhere, but they will leave the trailer sitting on the side of the road. A good roadside service plan that covers the trailer would be a good idea.

Best thing is to stay on top of scheduled maintenance to minimize the likelihood of an unexpected breakdown.

That raises an interesting question for full-timers. Do you maintain a relationship with a particular dealer or mechanic or do you just find a dealer wherever and whenever things need to be done? I have a great local guy who does everything except oil changes and warranty work. He gets to know our vehicles and I’d hate to give that up.

We live three hours from the nearest Honda dealer, and it hasn’t been a problem. Last time I had to have a vehicle towed was in the late 90’s, and it went to my local mechanic for a starter. A reliable model is preferable to a convenient dealer.

I’d at least give this vehicle a chance. No reason to trade a perfectly competent and comfortable vehicle at a loss just because it might break down.

Dealer availability is a big issue over on the Class B forum for Sprinter diesel owners. Issues with the emissions system have to go to a dealer, and not all Mercedes dealers can work on Sprinters.
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Old 02-14-2020, 09:04 AM   #56
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FWIW, if you are planning to keep a vehicle for ten years, the four highest average repair costs right now are BMW, Mercedes, Cadillac, and Volvo. The lowest four are three Toyota brands (Toyota, Lexus, and Scion), and Honda.

Steve makes a great point, if you break down in a non-urban center, even being able to get parts and a knowledgeable repair person for a Volvo could be very challenging.

Historically, Volvo had excellent repair record, but once they were sold to Ford, and more recently Geely Auto (China), repair record has faltered.

From Consumer Reports: "Solid and staid, the Swedish automaker is owned by Chinese parent Zhejiang Geely Holding Group. Traditionally known for safety, Volvos are typically quiet, have comfortable seats, and provide secure handling. Volvo ranks at the bottom for reliability."

All that being said, cars overall have gotten very reliable. And yours may be a really good one. Averages are just that, some do better, some do worse.



While I routinely say: don't worry about remembering everything, "there is a Walmart everywhere". This is more in regards to the basics: clothing, grooming, etc. And in fact, there is not a a Walmart everywhere. But on a typical long trip, you will pass several along the way. Good for grabbing that forgotten item, not so good for finding auto parts.
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Old 02-14-2020, 09:06 AM   #57
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Full-timing w/4cyl SUV (rated 5000#); tow 16/17' (max ~3500#) or should stick to 13'?

VW TDI has somewhat of a cult status, so yes, not too hard to find an independent specialty shop. Same for older Volvos.

I doubt you’ll find that to be true for the newer Volvos. Since the OP’s is a 2017, I’ll guess the bumper-to-bumper warranty is expired, but it probably has time left on the power train. There may even be a factory warranty extension as part of a “certified” process. If so, I’d personally feel comfortable giving this vehicle a try as a tow vehicle for a smaller molded trailer.

@Steve... I’ve lost track of all the things you wouldn’t do. But oddly enough, I think our lists are more alike than different. [emoji6]
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Old 02-14-2020, 09:18 AM   #58
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AAA will tow up to 200 miles once a year.....
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Old 02-14-2020, 09:22 AM   #59
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to mr bill

bill all I can say is he can afford whatever he wants and after his alternator experience the Volvo was gone. Funny thing he had leased the thing and when his lease expired he wanted to buy it outright. Volvo would not allow it. He chased it down 500 miles away at an auction and had a dealer buy it for him

I don't even want to know the expense he incurred with this car? After the alternator episode the Volvo was gone and he is driving Ford products. I have been mostly GM but someone converted him to Ford. LOL

I owned a 40f Eagle converted bus the clutch went out on a busy highway. I cant tell you what we went through with that thing getting it back on the road. Everything like refinishing the fly wheel had to go to a specialty shop!

The shop fixed it for $800.00 he was s small guy glad for the work I cant imagine what that would have cost at one of the big shops and I would have been waiting and waiting!

bob



Quote:
Originally Posted by thrifty bill View Post
FWIW, if you are planning to keep a vehicle for ten years, the four highest average repair costs right now are BMW, Mercedes, Cadillac, and Volvo. The lowest four are three Toyota brands (Toyota, Lexus, and Scion), and Honda.

Steve makes a great point, if you break down in a non-urban center, even being able to get parts and a knowledgeable repair person for a Volvo could be very challenging.

Historically, Volvo had excellent repair record, but once they were sold to Ford, and more recently Geely Auto (China), repair record has faltered.

From Consumer Reports: "Solid and staid, the Swedish automaker is owned by Chinese parent Zhejiang Geely Holding Group. Traditionally known for safety, Volvos are typically quiet, have comfortable seats, and provide secure handling. Volvo ranks at the bottom for reliability."

All that being said, cars overall have gotten very reliable. And yours may be a really good one. Averages are just that, some do better, some do worse.



While I routinely say: don't worry about remembering everything, "there is a Walmart everywhere". This is more in regards to the basics: clothing, grooming, etc. And in fact, there is not a a Walmart everywhere. But on a typical long trip, you will pass several along the way. Good for grabbing that forgotten item, not so good for finding auto parts.
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Old 02-14-2020, 09:40 AM   #60
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Originally Posted by Jon in AZ View Post
@Steve... I’ve lost track of all the things you wouldn’t do. But oddly enough, I think our lists are more alike than different. [emoji6]
Thank you , I will take your remark as a huge compliment !!
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