Grease Bearings

[JenM]

I have a 17' , 1991 Bigfoot.

Im told that I have to grease the bearings but there is no grease nipple on the wheel.

Can anyone direct me to a manual or information on this?

Cheers All

[AlanKilian]

I don't know if you have trailer brakes or not, so here are two videos that should get you there:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=akh0WhkudrM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HMifZSj407A

[floyd]

Great videos!
Further explanation...
EZ lube came after your trailer was built, thus there is no grease zerk and your wheel bearings must be packed by hand.

[AC0GV]

Originally Posted by AlanKilian

I don't know if you have trailer brakes or not, so here are two videos that should get you there:

I would NEVER re-use a rear seal. Also I do tighten the nut, spin the wheel, to be sure everything is seated and then back it off until the NEW cotter pin fits.
When my Scamp was new it came with one bearing over tightened.

[Darwin Maring]

I subgest you take it to hour mechanic and have them repack your bearings.

[AlanKilian]

Originally Posted by AC0GV

I would NEVER re-use a rear seal.

That's the right way to do it.

However, I've actually never REPLACED a rear seal. I just keep re-using them.
I've changed my axle now, so I got a new rear seal without me having to purchase one. :-)

Originally Posted by AC0GV

Also I do tighten the nut, spin the wheel, to be sure everything is seated and then back it off until the NEW cotter pin fits.

Again, absolutely the correct thing to do, but I've never done it and have re-used the cotter pin each time on every machine I've ever repacked bearings on over the last 40 years.

[AC0GV]

Originally Posted by AlanKilian

That's the right way to do it.

However, I've actually never REPLACED a rear seal. I just keep re-using them.
I've changed my axle now, so I got a new rear seal without me having to purchase one. :-)
Again, absolutely the correct thing to do, but I've never done it and have re-used the cotter pin each time on every machine I've ever repacked bearings on over the last 40 years.

... a lot of the rules we follow were made by the people that sell the parts.

[floyd]

Originally Posted by AlanKilian

That's the right way to do it.

However, I've actually never REPLACED a rear seal. I just keep re-using them.
I've changed my axle now, so I got a new rear seal without me having to purchase one. :-)



Again, absolutely the correct thing to do, but I've never done it and have re-used the cotter pin each time on every machine I've ever repacked bearings on over the last 40 years.

Thank you, for telling the truth of the vast majority of mechanics who have been repacking wheel bearings for decades.


Cars used to have front wheel bearings which needed serviced, the inner seals and cotter pins were removed inspected and reused if found to be in good shape.
I too have reused good inner seals and pins for over a half a century without issues, replacing them only when they had hard or torn rubber or the pin was mangled or fatigued.
In fact I have seen used seals which were better than some of the cheapo new ones.

[gordon2]

Originally Posted by floyd

//
I too have reused good inner seals and pins for over a half a century without issues, replacing them only when they had hard or torn rubber or the pin was mangled or fatigued.
..

floyd I love ya man, and you have been a big help to me in my Scamp ownership... but reusing cotter pins is just crazy! First.. they are very very cheap. Second.. take a cotter pin or any similar piece of metal and bend it back and forth a few times.. maybe it takes more than a couple of bends but it will break. Metal fatigue is a fact of life. Do you keep track of how many times you have bent the cotter pin? And when the cotter pins fails, the nut spins off, the bearing comes off and the wheel comes off.. at maybe 65 mph! Why chance it to save 50 cents on a new cotter pin?

As for inner seals.. I have never had much luck removing one to get the inner bearing out without pretty much destroying the seal.. Again.. a penny saved is a potential penny lost.. and much more. I have had an inner seal fail and let grease get past it.. not fun.

[Daniel A.]

I also have a 1991 17" Bigfoot, after buying I changed to dexter never adjust brakes and used new bearings. The cost of these is more than reasonable I think at the time around 120.00 I changed them.



The original brake shoes were worn out and the hubs were not in good shape nor were the magnets.

[tractors1]

New rig had EZ Lube. Followed instructions EXACTLY to grease bearings, then took it to a trailer shop, had them pull the hubs and check the quality of my work. No problems! No shoe contamination, all was well. My opinion was money well spent to make sure i knew what I was doing....

[Raspy]

Originally Posted by AlanKilian

However, I've actually never REPLACED a rear seal. I just keep re-using them.
I've changed my axle now, so I got a new rear seal without me having to purchase one. :-)

This advice is not always possible and certainly not a good idea as a standard practice.

Some manufacturers glue in their seals at the factory and they will not come out without being damaged, with the one possible exception of forcing them out with the bearing, a method expressly warned about by Dexter. Even an unglued seal is hard enough to remove that it is very likely to be damaged. And if it is a loose fit, it can be pushed out by grease pressure. Further, the seal is a cheap part, and it it fails, the brake shoes get ruined. Trying to save five bucks by not replacing the seal, or not replacing it just because you don't want to, is not a good plan.

A much better approach is to simply replace the seals each time the bearings are repacked. It makes the job easier, more likely to protect the brakes and less likely to damage the bearings. Seals are cheap and you can get a pack of ten or so and have them waiting on the shelf, or have one with you on a trip, along with a spare set of bearings and some grease. Those spares should never be needed, but some day, they might be.

[mary and bob]

I have a seal puller tool. Using it guarantees that I won't reuse the seal, which I had no intention of doing anyway. I keep extra seals on hand, along with USA made Timken bearings, tang washers for the spindle nut, and the rubber plugs for the center cap on the hub. Apparently the newer Dexter axles don't use the tang washer.

[Raz]

Originally Posted by Raspy

This advice is not always possible and certainly not a good idea as a standard practice.

Some manufacturers glue in their seals at the factory and they will not come out without being damaged, with the one possible exception of forcing them out with the bearing, a method expressly warned about by Dexter. Even an unglued seal is hard enough to remove that it is very likely to be damaged. And if it is a loose fit, it can be pushed out by grease pressure. Further, the seal is a cheap part, and it it fails, the brake shoes get ruined. Trying to save five bucks by not replacing the seal, or not replacing it just because you don't want to, is not a good plan.

A much better approach is to simply replace the seals each time the bearings are repacked. It makes the job easier, more likely to protect the brakes and less likely to damage the bearings. Seals are cheap and you can get a pack of ten or so and have them waiting on the shelf, or have one with you on a trip, along with a spare set of bearings and some grease. Those spares should never be needed, but some day, they might be.

Well said. Cheap insurance. While Dexter doesn't suggest replacing the seal every time, they do say to coat the edges with Permatex sealant. Might as well be glue when it comes to removal.

A few years back I was pulling into a site and could hear a clanking sound. Turns out the dust cap had come loose and was rolling around in the hub cap. Only the outer bearing was effected. I was lucky. I was able to find everything I needed at a local auto parts store. Since then I carry a repurposed goop container with everything I need to service my bearings.

[AlanKilian]

Originally Posted by Raspy

Some manufacturers glue in their seals at the factory and they will not come out without being damaged, with the one possible exception of forcing them out with the bearing, a method expressly warned about by Dexter.

That's exactly how I've always done it.

Pull the outer bearing, put the washer and nut back on and yank out the inner bearing and seal. Smooth and doesn't bend the seal.

COMPLETELY wrong way to do it and irresponsible to others.
You are a good guy to point that out.
It's important to do it the right way.
(Your way is the right way.)

I promise never to tell you if I ever do that in the future.

[floyd]

Originally Posted by gordon2

floyd I love ya man, and you have been a big help to me in my Scamp ownership... but reusing cotter pins is just crazy! First.. they are very very cheap. Second.. take a cotter pin or any similar piece of metal and bend it back and forth a few times.. maybe it takes more than a couple of bends but it will break. Metal fatigue is a fact of life. Do you keep track of how many times you have bent the cotter pin? And when the cotter pins fails, the nut spins off, the bearing comes off and the wheel comes off.. at maybe 65 mph! Why chance it to save 50 cents on a new cotter pin?


As for inner seals.. I have never had much luck removing one to get the inner bearing out without pretty much destroying the seal.. Again.. a penny saved is a potential penny lost.. and much more. I have had an inner seal fail and let grease get past it.. not fun.

There is a technique to remove the inner seal which was taught to every budding mechanic when I was a kid.

As for the cotter pin, I thought they were even cheaper than 50 cents.
It ain't really hard to tell if its bad or not worth straightening, besides I'd have to struggle to my feet, walk all the across the shop, then search through the bins to get a new one.(or maybe a good used one)
Keeping track is not really an issue since most wheel bearings get repacked realistically only when it is time to service the brakes anyway.

Considering the chance of all that "wheel falling off" stuff actually happening... yeah its worth taking that chance.. assuming good judgement is used when installing the pin. Its rare but I have seen new cotter pins break.... 50 cents? really? wow!
That would add real folding money to the price of the job!(if you did both sides!)


I towed this one over 400 miles home after purchase and it didn't even have a dust cover or an inner seal! .... (Don't know if I reused the cotter pin)
Notice they did have the wheel balanced??

[Raz]

Originally Posted by floyd

There is a technique to remove the inner seal which was taught to every budding mechanic when I was a kid.

I'm sure I'm not the only one who would love to hear how it's done.

[Norman Hicks]

Anyone using Bearing Buddies on their RV’s? They were very popular on boat trailers back in the day.

https://www.bearingbuddy.com/

[floyd]

Originally Posted by Norman Hicks

Anyone using Bearing Buddies on their RV’s? They were very popular on boat trailers back in the day.

https://www.bearingbuddy.com/

Unless you plan to back your fiberglass trailer down the local boat ramp into the water, then you won't be needing "Bearing Buddies".
Most fiberglass trailers made in the last thirty years will probably have EZ-Lube axles anyway, they work great and are not compatible with "Bearing Buddies".

[gordon2]

Originally Posted by floyd

...
Most fiberglass trailers made in the last thirty years will probably have EZ-Lube axles anyway, they work great ...

One of the most debatable statements I have heard in some time.

On second thought.. maybe they do work great... in theory. But in practice.. well, there is the debate.