Slightly nose down is a little better towing and it allows space to deploy the jacks that now just screw down from the frame to tension and level the back.
Jacking the front to level fore and aft tensions the rear jacks and lowering the two front takes care of a quick, stable platform.
Of course there are limits to the amount of unlevel spaces you can account for with the jacks, but the theory is suited for quick setup, proper towing and solid feel camping over night.
Really even when not just stopping over night the only real difference is that I don't have to raise the nose to clear the ball first.
I find that the Ultimate jack rated at humongus weight
to be perfect for my needs and offers good clearance when raised. It will easily raise the trailer tongue and the rear of my pretty heavy VW Touareg to install the WDH arms of the Reese Mini 350.
These stabilizers are screw type legs that drop down from the brackets I welded together, sideways on the rear and fore and aft on the front so that they "wobble" in different directions to improve stability. Altogether a big improvement over the old Attwoods I removed.
In this picture you can see the front jacks deployed.
The side view shows the position of the jacks in front and to the rear, slightly behind the rear access door for the water service hose.
To aid in rapid deployment I use a cordless drill with a 3/4" socket to spin the screw and that makes it quick and painless (unless you are not braced for the high torque at the end!)