Hitch ? Where to install?

[McKenna Lynn]

Considering Scamp 13 ft, deluxe, with tongue weight 160 and dry weight 1750 per internet.

TV would be 2011 Subaru Outback 3.6R, max tongue weight 200, tow capacity 3000 lbs. I would trying to ride light to match 200 tongue weight with 2000lbs. No water when driving.

I am new to this, and have not towed before. Where do I have hitch installed. Subaru or independent?

[MCDenny]

Either would be fine, Indie would probably be cheaper. Actually its not much of a DIY project. The trailer wiring just plugs into your cars lights, no cutting or splicing.

[Thomas G.]

A dealer would probably send it out to a hitch shop anyway. I'd look for hitch shops in your locality and check Yelp or similar to see if they satisfy their customers.

[MC1]

A good hitch shop is what I would look for.

0r a reputable RV dealer that has a good reputation for installing and setting up vehicle/trailers.

[Borden]

Common loads:
1 7/8”
Class I hitch does 200/2000
Class II 350/3500
2" draw bar
Class III 400/4000 common but can be 600/ 5000 plus
We used a class I with our smaller prior trailer and added a sway bar plate really helps.
Class III hitch is what we have now ours is a frame hitch type: car load limit is the new limit. (Our car was custom ordered with extras for towing)
We use 180 lbs. as our hitch weight trailer is 2190 lbs. with water and propane add gear for final total but we travel light.
Propane 20lb tank (38.5 X 2) and battery 115 lbs. remove the tanks and I can move the trailer around the yard
For cars tongue weight can be set to 8% but higher trucks need 10 to 15%, The Expert told me is depends vehicle height.

Class III is more than you need but is great to have.
Consider adding trailer brakes as well any load over 500 lbs. and it is just a good idea.

Check out the rules for your area as the law varies in different locations but in Ontario if the trailer weight is 50% or more of the tow vehicle weight, brakes are required.

[Perry J]

U-Haul probably installs more Hitches than anyone and are set up to do it quickly and cost effectively.

I've had several U-Haul hitches over the years and have never had a problem.

[Borden]

Believe Subaru give the 8% amount for tongue weight

[MC1]

Originally Posted by Borden

Class III hitch is what we have now ours is a frame hitch type: car load limit is the new limit.

Nice.... this is what we are using too. The other benefit of going with a 2", class III or better is that we can safely use a hitch style bike rack.

[Eddie Longest]

Lynn
The Subaru hitch is one of the best looking hitches, but it is also the most expensive and the most difficult to install because the rear bump wrapper has to be removed. The other issue with the stock hitch it has the smaller opening (1.25" I think). Not only is the weight rating lower but most accessories (bike racks) work better with the 2" hitch receiver.
Most of the after market 2" receiver hitches hang below the bumper and are very visible on the Outback. On the Outback Forum someone posted about the Torklift Stealth hitch and a lot of people like it. I have a low hanging 2" Curt Hitch, if I were to buy one today I would buy the Torklift Stelth hitch. If you want to see an install check out Outback video.
Eddie
Torklift Central ECO Series-Stealth Trailer Hitches

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by Thomas G.

A dealer would probably send it out to a hitch shop anyway. I'd look for hitch shops in your locality and check Yelp or similar to see if they satisfy their customers.

I agree... but the exception might be a genuine Subaru hitch, installed by the Subaru dealer as an accessory. I know that at least some Toyota dealers install Toyota hitches, and send vehicles out for aftermarket hitches.

There's no need for a genuine Subaru hitch unless it is different from the aftermarket models. In some cases, the "factory" or "OEM" hitch - the one from the vehicle manufacturer - fits up better into the bumper, usually requiring bumper cover modification. The Subaru owners here could provide guidance on this specific to the Outback; Eddie has already started.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by Eddie Longest

The other issue with the stock hitch it has the smaller opening (1.25" I think). Not only is the weight rating lower but most accessories (bike racks) work better with the 2" hitch receiver.

The 1.25" opening is normal practice in the towing equipment industry for up to Class 2 (3500 pound) trailer capacity... which is significantly more than the Subaru can handle, so it's more than enough.

The availability of good bike racks, and even a broader range of ball mounts, is a more significant factor in the 1.25" versus 2" choice.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by MC1

The other benefit of going with a 2", class III or better is that we can safely use a hitch style bike rack.

I would check the vehicle owner's manual on that - some require additional bracing (such as straps) to reduce bouncing of loads on racks regardless of the size or capacity of the hitch.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by Borden

Common loads:
1 7/8”
Class I hitch does 200/2000
Class II 350/3500
2" draw bar
Class III 400/4000 common but can be 600/ 5000 plus

A couple of tweaks:

• The smaller receiver box size is 1 1/4", not 1 7/8".
• The receiver box size is not part of the class definition, although 1.25" for Class I and Class II, and 2" for Class III, are typical.
• The tongue weight (the number before the "/" in Borden's capacities) is not part of the class definition.
• The Class III limit is 5000 pounds, even though some hitches are not rated for the full class limit.

Originally Posted by Borden

... ours is a frame hitch type

The alternative to "frame" hitch would be a "bumper" hitch - you can't get a bumper hitch for a modern car. Current hitches do vary in exactly how they attach, and you certainly want one attached to the most appropriate point in the vehicle structure. Fortunately, any of the available hitches for the 2011 Outback are secured by four bolts through factory-provided holes into the frame rails.

[McKenna Lynn]

So I need a Class II hitch and trailer brakes. What would be the advantages of a Class III for me, if I would not be upgrading to a heavier trailer in the future.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by McKenna Lynn

What would be the advantages of a Class III for me, if I would not be upgrading to a heavier trailer in the future.

I don't see how it matters if you get a heavier trailer or not, unless you plan to massively exceed the Subaru's rated capacity, since even a Class 2 hitch can handle more trailer (3500 pounds) than the Subaru is rated for.

The receiver box size (1.25" or 2") is not strictly determined by the class, but a Class 3 hitch would typically have the larger box. Since weight distribution (WD) systems are not available for 1.25", this would matter if you needed WD for a larger trailer... if Subaru allows WD (I don't think they do).

[stevebaz]

I vote to have an independent installer install the wiring. Brake lights and such use a plug in connector but don’t forget part of the installation involves getting a properly routed and designed charge line so your brakes and battery get recharged and are isolated when the engine is off and installing a controller where it works for you. Plus with an installer you will take your trailer and they will set you up properly with the right ball, right height hitch and make sure everything is working properly before you ever leave the driveway. They can show you how to operate the controller. With the dealer you probably gonna end up with just the hitch and the wiring harness adapter plugged in unless they sub out to a contractor to give you a whole package. I doubt you will ever find a trailer specialist at the dealer.

[McKenna Lynn]

Originally Posted by Eddie Longest

Lynn
The Subaru hitch is one of the best looking hitches, but it is also the most expensive and the most difficult to install because the rear bump wrapper has to be removed. The other issue with the stock hitch it has the smaller opening (1.25" I think). Not only is the weight rating lower but most accessories (bike racks) work better with the 2" hitch receiver.
Most of the after market 2" receiver hitches hang below the bumper and are very visible on the Outback. On the Outback Forum someone posted about the Torklift Stealth hitch and a lot of people like it. I have a low hanging 2" Curt Hitch, if I were to buy one today I would buy the Torklift Stelth hitch. If you want to see an install check out Outback video.
Eddie
Torklift Central ECO Series-Stealth Trailer Hitches

A hitch shop was recommended to me here, and their website focuses on Draw-Tite hitches. Do you know about them?

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by McKenna Lynn

A hitch shop was recommended to me here, and their website focuses on Draw-Tite hitches. Do you know about them?

The largest towing equipment company in North America is Cequent. Draw-Tite is one of their brands; their other hitch brands include Reese and Hidden Hitch, and are listed across the top of their web page. Although these were separate companies years ago, their product lines are now almost entirely integrated - you can get most of their hitches under any of the three brands. Most U-Haul hitches are also actually made by Cequent.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by Eddie Longest

The Subaru hitch ...
... Not only is the weight rating lower...

What is the rating of the Subaru factory hitch? Is it any lower than the car's ratings?

[Jared J]

I would be amazed. My preference is to stick to 2" hitches, but I also have two pickups with 2" hitches, which is why the subie does, also.