Maintenance & Restoration

fieldphoto · 08-03-2016, 09:11 PM

I was hoping someone would say WD-40. That stuff is liquid gold.
I will use very very sparingly, but I figure it would be normal for me to be able to pull a little and get a bit of movement, which right now I cannot do.
I will be very careful not to get the WD-40 on the outside of the brake pads.

Any other suggestions are welcome!

floyd · 08-03-2016, 09:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wayne Collins

After all is said and done - there's a lot more said than done.

Being "handy" is one thing, but being skilled is another.
Replacing and repacking bearings is a messy job, and if not done right can lead to more trouble. Go to a reputable trailer shop, and let them do it.

Then how would you EVER get from "handy" to "skilled"?

Joe & Cherie · 08-04-2016, 05:49 AM

Hey Darral,

I hear you and I have to agree with you!!! I used to be into boating big time (hence my userid Scarab) but now prefer the road trips and relaxation of FGRV's much more!! When I found out my FGRV had the EZ lube (boat axle) I was excited!!

I'm guessing the grease expands in both methods. Yours, the cap does not bulge out because there is air in the cavity for the grease to go to. The filled method the cap bulges out due to no air gap. I'm guessing both run similar temps, or if the filled method is hotter - not by much - and still WELL under temp limit specs.

I like the EZ method because it does not allow the bearings to ever go dry, pushes moisture out (air pockets and hot/cool cause condensation), and you feel confident they are always fully greased and fresh. I also scoop some of the extra grease from the cap once done pumping to create an expansion air pocket - no more bulging cap. And I like it because - its EZ.

Now don't get me wrong - if I buy a used trailer, I tear apart and replace/inspect/repack - just to know where I am at - then I fill with EZ method and use same grease from there on (Valvoline Durablend because the stores always carry it - and its on the list).

I'm guessing with proper attention, both of our methods will work perfectly and not leave us on the highway!!

Raz · 08-04-2016, 05:59 AM

In your pictures I notice you have removed one of the magnets. Do make sure that it is secured with the little clip and the spring that goes behind it is in good shape. I had one come loose. Not good.

Also, Bob's suggestion of checking the adjuster is a good one. A frozen adjuster later will require you to take things apart. Raz

mary and bob · 08-04-2016, 06:25 AM

I've always removed the adjusters, cleaned and lubed the threads, usually with an anti seize compound. If you are trying to actually pull on the shoes, that's near impossible as the springs are pretty stiff. Otherwise move the lever that the magnet is on to actuate the shoe movement. I've always cleaned any glaze off the shoes with 80 grit sandpaper. I recently bought a set of brakes from etrailer, the complete assemblies, and it appears one has had some kind of failure after 500 miles, causing an error code in the controller. Can't check it out as our son has that trailer and is 8 hours from me, so I ordered a replacement and had it sent to him. I was a truck mechanic for 25 years, probably did at least a couple brake jobs per week on average, although 90% were air brakes. Don't know if that qualifies me to comment on how to do wheel bearings, but I've learned to not do that here.

gordon2 · 08-04-2016, 06:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mary and bob

...I recently bought a set of brakes from etrailer, the complete assemblies, and it appears one has had some kind of failure after 500 miles, causing an error code in the controller. ...

Off hand, I cannot think of anything that would cause an error code to show up on a controller other than an electrical problem. It could be as simple as either a failed ground or broken positive wire to the brakes / magnet and not a defect in the new brake assemblies. If not that, then maybe a failed magnet. It should not be too hard to diagnose, although the eight hour drive is an obstacle.

Darral T. · 08-04-2016, 07:44 AM

Thanks for the response JW. However, I include a pic that I took early on last year before taking a 800+ mile round trip from Tenn to Foley, AL (Gulfshores) and back. This is EXACTLY how it looks from the factory. As I said earlier- never greased. You can see some air space in the cavity. When the "bulging" took place (during a test pull), I popped one of the rubber covers loose and air came out. Maybe Scamp/Dexter DID fill the cavity but you can see from this pic, it's not 100%. Both sides look the same and that's why I chose to leave well enough alone for now.

Anyway, while on the trip to Gulfshores, I checked my hubs while stopped at the gas stations and NEVER had any "heat" issues on the way down. When I knew I was going to be checking the hubs, I would zero out my brake controller until I was stopped (mostly at the gas pump) and check the hubs. A couple of times on the way down and I was done until I started back.

IF I was to plan a long interstate trip- like many on here do, I probably would disassemble and check my bearings, repack and check the brakes. But again, right now, I'm down to short/close trips with my Scamp. I despise having it on the interstate.

Before I get "jumped" about zeroing out my brake controller, I would do this only on long exits and gear down (I drive a manual shift) and the truck has NO problem stopping both. Then a mere 20-30mph into the filling station I was perfectly safe. I would always dial it back before exiting the truck. If in heavy traffic, I leave it fully active.

[QUOTE=JWScarab;601758] Hey Darral,

I hear you and I have to agree with you!!! I used to be into boating big time (hence my userid Scarab) but now prefer the road trips and relaxation of FGRV's much more!! When I found out my FGRV had the EZ lube (boat axle) I was excited!!

I'm guessing the grease expands in both methods. Yours, the cap does not bulge out because there is air in the cavity for the grease to go to. The filled method the cap bulges out due to no air gap. I'm guessing both run similar temps, or if the filled method is hotter - not by much - and still WELL under temp limit specs.

mary and bob · 08-04-2016, 11:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gordon2

Off hand, I cannot think of anything that would cause an error code to show up on a controller other than an electrical problem. It could be as simple as either a failed ground or broken positive wire to the brakes / magnet and not a defect in the new brake assemblies. If not that, then maybe a failed magnet. It should not be too hard to diagnose, although the eight hour drive is an obstacle.

A few weeks after the initial installation, and about 500 miles, is when the code appeared. We did meet up with our son at a campground mid way between our homes. I was not about to Pull the wheels off there. All wiring was new. As a quick diagnosis I cut the power wire at the right brake and the code went away so I'm assuming the problem is in that right brake, possibly the magnet. Next time I buy brake assemblies I'll go for the higher priced Dexters that etrailer sells, not the cheaper brand.

fieldphoto · 08-04-2016, 05:26 PM

Ok, 1 last question (hopefully!!)

Please see attached photos. After a long run around with the guy at the auto parts store, he found what he said were the correct grease seals for L44649.

They look a little different than what was on there, but i THINK the difference is a single lip seal vs. a double... though after looking at pictures, it may just be that this is completely the wrong part.

Also, it is clear that when this seal is installed and flush with the hub, it will not touch the bearings... there will be a few millimeters gap. This is normal? Or is this grease hub not thick enough? (though the original one is quite thin... so I suppose this is how it is supposed to be)

I keep editing this post as I think of new stuff because noone has commented yet lol. What I am finding is I need seal 10-60, but what I bought was National Seal part 204507. I find 2 different pictures for this part online... one looks like what I am supposed to have, one looks like what I bought... I think I may have an engine oil seal? Oy.

https://goo.gl/photos/1U5Y5jr3jbrYxnAA6

fieldphoto · 08-04-2016, 09:12 PM

Well, leave me to my own devices long enough, and I will probably figure it out on my own. It appears that I definitely have the wrong part.

I found this really handy graphic that confirms I need a 10-60 seal. I found this really handy graphic, and was able to get the alt seal (the 1st one wasnt in stock) at my local auto parts store. #474276

http://www.federalmogulmp.com/en-US/...al%20Guide.pdf

Final re-assembly tomorrow. Then a QUICK breakdown of the left side of the trailer (should take 1 hr rather than 3 days lol) and then to get the brake controller installed, so that we can confirm if the brakes are actually functional or not!

Raz · 08-05-2016, 03:54 AM

As this is a popular axle, most RV places will carry the seal. It should say 7" x 1 1/4" on the package which refers to the drum size.. The local RV place here carries the Tekonsha brand. A 5603 is the correct seal. I've had good luck with them. Raz

fieldphoto · 08-05-2016, 06:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Raz

As this is a popular axle, most RV places will carry the seal. It should say 7" x 1 1/4" on the package which refers to the drum size.. The local RV place here carries the Tekonsha brand. A 5603 is the correct seal. I've had good luck with them. Raz

In hindsight, a local RV place may have been the easier route... I just assumed auto parts store would work.

The part I got last night is for that size axle, according to the chart I posted from national, so I think I am on the right track now!!! (Finally!)

fieldphoto · 08-06-2016, 06:00 PM

Ok,
the 1st wheel went back together succesfully (amazing what you can do with the correct parts!) and then the 2nd wheel came off and went back together in less than 45 min. I feel very comfortable that this is something I can do again in the future.

A few follow up questions/issues:
1. I do not (yet) own a grease gun, so while I was able to thoroughly clean the bearings, shaft, and other exterior areas... I did not shoot new grease into the ez-lube axle and push the old grease out. Is this an issue? I can take it back apart pretty simply and do this as needed.

2. When I dissasembled the left wheel, I found the brake was in significantly better condition. They look like completely different brakes compared to what is on the right side. Is this concerning? Should I just order the $45 brake kit and replace the rust-bucket looking brakes to look like the ones on the left, or should I just get over this whole rust thing and not care about how they look? ALSO, very important, I realized I am missing a piece on the right side brake. The little clip that prevents the magnet from slipping forward) is missing. This may be a stupid question, but do I need to replace this part immediately or the next time I disassemble the hub?

3. After re-assembling the left wheel, there is an occasional faint clicking or clacking sound. It sounds maybe something rubbing in the brake area... but it is so faint (and not as frequent as each rotation of the tire... more like every 3 turns or so) I never would have heard it unless I put my ear right up to the wheel (which I did). There is NO wiggle or play in the wheel or hub. Everything is very solid. Thoughts? (My plan was to not worry about it until I get the brake controller installed on Wednesday of this next week, and see if the brakes even work- then see if the sound remains after the brakes engage and re-engage. Is this foolish? Am I missing something major?

Thank you all as usual. Pictures of the left side brake have been added to the photo album here for your inspection:https://goo.gl/photos/1U5Y5jr3jbrYxnAA6

Darral T. · 08-06-2016, 08:06 PM

As long as you used "compatible" grease, not "cleaning" out the EZ Lube shouldnt be a problem...especially if you never intend on using it. I havent.

I've heard some "problems" occuring if that clip is not on the magnet. I cant give you advice personally, but if you dont get the answer you need here, call Dexter or eTrailer and I'm sure they can tell you what can happen.

That "faint" scrubbing you hear is normal for e-brakes. That's the magnet sitting against the hub. It threw me a few times as well. Especially when we owners are as paranoid about the bearings as we deserve to be!

When the brakes are applied, the pull of the magnet gets stronger with the more brakes that are applied. In other words, the more brakes- the more voltage- the more voltage the stronger the magnet pull and more braking will take place.

I've given you the basics and the others will fill in with "Pro" advice.

Good job and your learning experience will be invaluable in the future...and YOU will be helping others like yourself.

Quote:

Originally Posted by fieldphoto

Ok,
the 1st wheel went back together succesfully (amazing what you can do with the correct parts!) and then the 2nd wheel came off and went back together in less than 45 min. I feel very comfortable that this is something I can do again in the future.

A few follow up questions/issues:
1. I do not (yet) own a grease gun, so while I was able to thoroughly clean the bearings, shaft, and other exterior areas... I did not shoot new grease into the ez-lube axle and push the old grease out. Is this an issue? I can take it back apart pretty simply and do this as needed.

2. When I dissasembled the left wheel, I found the brake was in significantly better condition. They look like completely different brakes compared to what is on the right side. Is this concerning? Should I just order the $45 brake kit and replace the rust-bucket looking brakes to look like the ones on the left, or should I just get over this whole rust thing and not care about how they look? ALSO, very important, I realized I am missing a piece on the right side brake. The little clip that prevents the magnet from slipping forward) is missing. This may be a stupid question, but do I need to replace this part immediately or the next time I disassemble the hub?

3. After re-assembling the left wheel, there is an occasional faint clicking or clacking sound. It sounds maybe something rubbing in the brake area... but it is so faint (and not as frequent as each rotation of the tire... more like every 3 turns or so) I never would have heard it unless I put my ear right up to the wheel (which I did). There is NO wiggle or play in the wheel or hub. Everything is very solid. Thoughts? (My plan was to not worry about it until I get the brake controller installed on Wednesday of this next week, and see if the brakes even work- then see if the sound remains after the brakes engage and re-engage. Is this foolish? Am I missing something major?

Thank you all as usual. Pictures of the left side brake have been added to the photo album here for your inspection:https://goo.gl/photos/1U5Y5jr3jbrYxnAA6

fieldphoto · 08-06-2016, 08:25 PM

Darral,
Thanks for your insight. For something as critical as bearings and brakes, I'll hope to get a few more inputs, just to make sure I am on the right track, but my gut feelings lined up with what you said, so that is good.

I am super curious to see if these brakes even work when I get the brake controller installed on Wednesday. (then there is the whole issue of how to even adjust the controller, how to know each brake is working (not just 1 side), and proper testing). I have more reading to do for sure!!

-Ginny

Darral T. · 08-06-2016, 09:01 PM

I can give you a "quick" test method. I keep my Scamp on jackstands so this test was/is easy for me. But once you install the brake controller (and you havent said what you're getting I dont think), the brake controller has a "feedback" sequence that it goes through. Now, I'm speaking for my Tekonsha "Prodigy" which is probably the most popular bc sold. I wouldnt have anything else.

On mine, if I use the "manual" or "Over ride" lever, and when there's not trailer connected, on my read out, it will give an "nc". IF there's a trailer there and connected, it will simply give me the voltage that's being applied. It also clicks periodically and that is the "feedback" making sure the trailer is still connected. One "cheat" method I have too, I have a 7-pin plug tester I plug into my TOW 7-pin socket. It has LED's to test the signal/brakes, back up lights etc. When you apply the brake lever on the brake controller, as the voltage increases, so does the brightness of the LED. It's a QUICK way to test the TOW and it's plug for issues.

Anyway, last year, I adjusted my brakes....one side....after 5 yrs. I took the trailer for a "test pull" and noticed that the right side or curb side was getting ALOT hotter (the hub) than the left or driver's side. Without ANY brakes, both hubs ran about 90-95 deg consistently. Therefore, I knew one side had being doing most of the stopping....probably since it was new! I should have checked but there was always the "tug" when I applied my lever as I was leaving the driveway to test it...still do that.

Anyway, while on jackstands, I had the wife apply the lever as I spun the wheel. IF the brakes are working, it WILL quickly lock the wheels where you cant turn them. The brakes are working. It's easy to test BOTH sides this way. This may sound crazy, but I also adjusted the side that was running cooler (left/driver's) until now it's slightly warmer than the right side. (There's a way I did it with voltage-monitoring but that's just too deep to go into right here.) Hey the brakes work fine and I figured I should let them play "catch up" for awhile. YOu're in MUCH better shape as you've had yours off and know what shape the shoes are in. IF you're not getting brakes or one side, you will most likely need a volt meter to start trouble shooting why voltage is not getting back there. But most likely if that happens, it will be a bad "ground"..so keep that in mind.

And, let me give you a final warning...13'er brakes (7") will NOT slide the tires on pavement so dont expect them to!! Many owners have banged their heads trying to figure out what's wrong.

Quote:

Originally Posted by fieldphoto

Darral,
Thanks for your insight. For something as critical as bearings and brakes, I'll hope to get a few more inputs, just to make sure I am on the right track, but my gut feelings lined up with what you said, so that is good.

I am super curious to see if these brakes even work when I get the brake controller installed on Wednesday. (then there is the whole issue of how to even adjust the controller, how to know each brake is working (not just 1 side), and proper testing). I have more reading to do for sure!!

-Ginny

fieldphoto · 08-06-2016, 10:22 PM

Ugh. I had a post written then it timed out.

Anyways, Darral I followed most of what you wrote lol.

Might be a stupid question, but can I test one wheel at a time? I have 1 jack, but I can pick up a 2nd one if it is better to test the brake controller on both wheels at the same time.

I went in search of some videos (I am a visual person) and I found this one. It is super long, so by no means does anyone need to watch it, but it explained a lot for me, ESPECIALLY how to adjust the brakes with the star adjuster. I feel like I understand the whole thing soooo much more now!!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R_jj63PemrU

Darral T. · 08-06-2016, 10:43 PM

If "timing out" ever happens again, just hit your "<" back arrow on your browser. "Copy" to memory what you just typed...re-log in and just "paste" it back in the window. I've used that trick MANY times.

NOW....one thing you jogged my memory. I had posted some pics on my Flickr site of how I adjusted my brakes...which way to move the lever etc. Not sure if it will help you any but you can compare it to everything else you've read/watched. I havent watched the clip yet but I will.

Here's my brake adjustment adventure from last year. ALSO, on my Flickr site is MANY mods that I've done to my Scamp. Check'm out when you get time

https://www.flickr.com/photos/503516...57653220625545

fieldphoto · 08-06-2016, 11:01 PM

Yeah, back button usually works for me to, but no joy this time. Oh well, no worries!!

Pics were great, thank you!! I got a few good ideas there.

As for which way to turn the star adjuster, the guy in the video said it was really easy to figure out which way to turn it. "Take whichever way you think it should be, and it's the opposite"... seems legit to me.

New tail lights arrive tomorrow or Monday... that is the next project!

Raz · 08-07-2016, 04:48 AM

Quote:

ALSO, very important, I realized I am missing a piece on the right side brake. The little clip that prevents the magnet from slipping forward) is missing. This may be a stupid question, but do I need to replace this part immediately or the next time I disassemble the hub?

Replace it immediately. I lost one. The magnet came loose. Not good.