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Old 04-24-2009, 06:17 AM   #21
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Hi: Roger C H... Check the adjustment of the coupler lock down clamp. If not properly tight, it will allow the ball to slop back and forth in the coupler, with braking/accelleration. If it is too tight it can wratchet its self loose after some miles towing/turning, and if too loose it will slop back& forth. You can have a surge brake installed as a coupler to eliminate the action/reaction!!!
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Old 08-27-2009, 12:39 AM   #22
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I have not had any problem since except occasionally and in a few places. It does seem to be connected to the road. Anyway, thanks for all your input. I have more miles experience now and even that seems to help. LOL
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Old 08-27-2009, 06:25 AM   #23
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I haven't read this entire topic and maybe this has been addressed. But it's easy to forget you have six wheels (or more) now on the pavement. Every bump or pothole that hits the front tug tires will in turn hit the back tires, then the tow tires. You'll feel every one of those through the seat of your pants and through the peddles of the tug. Only some of this discomfort can be minimized by proper tire pressure, etc.
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Old 04-03-2010, 02:18 AM   #24
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I found the solution! I have not had the problem, even on the same stretch of road, since I torqued the hitch ball to 100 ft-lbs.

Thank you all for your input.

BTW: I had a difficult time finding out the torque value. I finally called Torque Lift Central in Kent and they gave me the 100 ft-lbs figure. Luckily I had a torque wrench, had to buy a new socket though!
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Old 04-03-2010, 06:43 AM   #25
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Roger, et al …
First – confirm that you have adequate tongue weight. US experts seem to say 'at least 10 percent' of the gross weight of the trailer should be on the hitch. I agree more with those who suggest that 12 to 15 percent is a better target.
I think don's suggestion is a good one.... I've had problems before with that jerking motion and i just changed the tongue weight and it went away.
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Old 04-03-2010, 10:28 PM   #26
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I found the solution! I have not had the problem, even on the same stretch of road, since I torqued the hitch ball to 100 ft-lbs.

Thank you all for your input.

BTW: I had a difficult time finding out the torque value. I finally called Torque Lift Central in Kent and they gave me the 100 ft-lbs figure. Luckily I had a torque wrench, had to buy a new socket though!
Roger:

I have been having this problem too, and checked hitch weight (okay), tire pressure (okay), ball mount fit in receiver (okay), weight distribution (okay) but until reading this post for the first time tonight had not thought of hitch ball torque. I will try torquing up the hitch ball and see what happens. I will need to find a torque wrench and the right sized socket. If you look at http://www.easternmarine.com/em_store/tech...upler_tech.html you will see that [b]150 ft. lb. torque is recommended for a ball with a 3/4" connection and 250 ft. lb. for a ball with a 1" connection.

I suspect the problem may be more pronounced with a 13 foot trailer and light tow vehicle, since we are unlikely to use a WDH. Rough roads certainly make the problem worse!

Brian
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Old 04-04-2010, 03:12 AM   #27
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This makes sense as tire lugs nut are suppose to be torqued to 100 ft. lb. and if you look at a torque chart for bolt sizes it goes up as the bolts get bigger.

Bill K


Quote:
Roger:
I will need to find a torque wrench and the right sized socket. If you look at http://www.easternmarine.com/em_store/tech...upler_tech.html you will see that [b]150 ft. lb. torque is recommended for a ball with a 3/4" connection and 250 ft. lb. for a ball with a 1" connection.

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Old 04-04-2010, 11:01 AM   #28
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This makes sense as tire lugs nut are suppose to be torqued to 100 ft. lb. and if you look at a torque chart for bolt sizes it goes up as the bolts get bigger.
I'm not sure if you mean for trailer tires or vehicle tires, but probably each person should check the proper specs for what they have. My vehicle's wheel lug nuts, for example, are supposed to be tightened to 85 foot/pounds (115 newton/meters).

I've experimented a bit and figured out how much force it takes me with my particular self and four-arm, so that I can tighten the lugs darned close to that rating on the road without needing to carry a torque wrench along.

Now, how would one find the torque specs for the trailer nuts? Would that be a factor of the lugs (axle) or wheel or...

(BTW, I should mention that I am responding to Bill's post about wheel lug torques and not hitch-ball nut torques - I understand they are larger.)

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Old 04-04-2010, 01:56 PM   #29
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Now, how would one find the torque specs for the trailer nuts? Would that be a factor of the lugs (axle) or wheel or...


Raya
Raya:

Here is a chart which might be helpful

http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/...jsp?techid=107

Brian
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Old 04-04-2010, 02:23 PM   #30
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Thanks, I see they say "bolt or lug," so that should cover trailers too.

(I buy my car tires from Tire Rack, but had never noticed this page since I already knew what my car torque spec was.)

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Old 04-07-2010, 04:41 AM   #31
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Yesterday I contacted our local hitch installation specialist and asked whether they stock the Reese hitch ball wrench, a wrench which fits 1 1/8" and 1 1/2" nuts, or alternatively whether they could torque the hitch ball to 150 ft. lb.

They don't stock the wrench, although I have seen it in two different Washington state Walmart rv sections and most regular online trailer sources and Amazon.com.

They said they do not use a torque wrench on hitch balls, just an impact wrench, and don't know what the torque is!

If torque is important, the alternatives seem to be:

1. buy your own hitch ball wrench and estimate the torque by knowing the length of the wrench and guessing the force you are applying to it
2. buy a proper torque wrench and socket


Any experience on this?

Brian


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Old 04-08-2010, 10:58 AM   #32
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If torque is important, the alternatives seem to be:

1. buy your own hitch ball wrench and estimate the torque by knowing the length of the wrench and guessing the force you are applying to it
2. buy a proper torque wrench and socket
Yesterday I had our Subaru in for regular servicing and asked if they could torque the hitch ball to 150 ft. lb. and they did it!

Now I just have to get out on the road and try it out!

Brian
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Old 04-08-2010, 03:26 PM   #33
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I don't have a special wrench to tighten the ball. I inserted my drawbar sidewise into the hitch, then used a pipe wrench with about a 1 foot handle on the nut of the tow ball and stood on the end of the wrench to tighten it, kind of bounced up and down gently on it too, I weigh 175 which was short of the torque needed. Vaguely recall the torque value specified was 200-250 ft. lbs., ball has never come loose, has a big old lock washer on it.
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Old 04-09-2010, 01:17 AM   #34
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Torque . . .Navy definition


!/4 turn past stripped
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Old 04-10-2010, 04:33 PM   #35
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If torque is important, the alternatives seem to be:

1. buy your own hitch ball wrench and estimate the torque by knowing the length of the wrench and guessing the force you are applying to it
2. buy a proper torque wrench and socket
Yesterday I picked up a Reese hitch ball wrench and checked out the method of tightening the hitch ball using the hitch receiver as a vice described by others. This method seems to work!


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Old 04-11-2010, 01:10 AM   #36
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Hi: All...You must also check the trailer coupler clamp to make sure it is not to slack but only allows the stinger to move freely as in turns etc. Insert the ball into the coupler and snap the clamp tight. Does the stinger drop too freely??? Does the ball move/slop in the clamp??? If so tighten the clamp nut...but not to tight!!!
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Old 04-14-2010, 11:33 PM   #37
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Now I just have to get out on the road and try it out!

Brian
We just returned from a trip from Vancouver BC to Deception Pass WA and back, a trip of about 90 miles each way.

Wonderful camping!


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With our new hitch torqued to 150 lb. ft. we experienced no "jerking while towing", so I conclude that the likely cause of our earlier experience was a loose hitch ball.

Brian
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Old 05-31-2010, 07:18 AM   #38
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I had the same problem. It felt like the trailer was constantly "pushing" the tv. The nut was loose on the ball. I clamped it in a vise and used a pipe wrench to tighten and the problem was solved!
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Old 05-31-2010, 09:44 AM   #39
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Was that pipe wrench calibrated to 150lbs. ? LOL

Bill K

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I had the same problem. It felt like the trailer was constantly "pushing" the tv. The nut was loose on the ball. I clamped it in a vise and used a pipe wrench to tighten and the problem was solved!
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Old 05-31-2010, 09:57 AM   #40
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Was that pipe wrench calibrated to 150lbs. ? LOL

Bill K
I use my fathers formula. " Tighten til it cracks then back it off 1/2 turn," similar to the navy way.
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