Lug nut and post problem

[jon mck.]

The tires and wheels on my 1994 13' Scamp are in pretty bad shape. Tires are dry rotted and the wheels are really rusty. So, I decided to purchase new tires and wheels from eTrailer.com.

After not being able to find a place that would/could balance the 13" tires, I decided to go ahead and put them on unbalanced. I had already loosened the lug nuts to make sure I could get them off, or at least I thought I could.

Hooked the trailer to the truck, used the truck's jack to jack up the trailer, and started to remove the lug nuts. 4 came off fine while the 5th one was taking forever, when I realized the post was spinning and not the lug not. Put it all back together and tried the other side out of curiosity. First lug nut I tried just spun and ultimately actually backed out the post (oops!).

So, with that, my question is: what do I do now? The post unscrewing can't be good. With some of the lug nuts basically stuck, I can't change the tires.

Jonathan McK.

[JeffR]

Take the wheel bearings apart and get new hubs. Probably comes with new wheel bearings.

[mary and bob]

If the stud actually unscrews from the hub, get the wheel off whether the nuts come off or the stud comes out. Then with the wheel off, if you have a vise or hard surface, hold the stud and nut so that the nut sets with a flat on the hard surface and hit the opposite (top) flat surface with a hammer. Work around the nut doing this. It will help loosen it on the stud. If there is enough threads sticking out of the nut, screw on another nut, flat end against the stuck nut and screw the stud back into the hub. Tighten the stud in using a wrench on the outer nut. Then using two wrenches remove the outer nut, then the inner nut. However if it is a normal stud that is inserted from the back side of the hub, that is another problem that may require heating or cutting off the nut, then replacing the stud. Or remove the hub and wheel together and find a way of holding the stud from turning. Some penetrating oil sprayed on the nuts a couple days before trying to remove them may help too. Most, but not all, wheel studs are pressed into the hub from the back side and have a serrated shoulder to hold them in and prevent them from turning.

[gordon2]

Originally Posted by jon mck.

The tires and wheels on my 1994 13' Scamp are in pretty bad shape. Tires are dry rotted and the wheels are really rusty. ...

1994? What shape is the axle in? If it was never replaced it might need to be. If you need to replace the axle then if the trailer can safely be moved to the shop you can just leave the old wheels on and drop the axle, wheels and all.

[jon mck.]

Thanks, guys. I'll try lubricating the stuck ones first and see if I can get them off. I was rather shocked when I had one stud unscrew. I simply screwed it back in, but will lubricate the nut and see if I can get it off. It's raining right now, so that may have to wait until another day.

I've been a little concerned about the axle and hubs. If I do need new hubs, how difficult are they to replace?

[David B.]

Jon, Mary & Bob’s reply is good advice, but I would add that when you go to replace the stud back into the hub, make sure it is very clean by spraying the stud and the threaded hub with brake cleaner, then place a couple drops of a thread locker on the threads of the stud that go into the hub.
If you want to replace your hubs and brakes as a unit, then you will have to remove the spindle nut, the 4 bolts from the backing plate, disconnect the brake wires, and pull the complete assembly off.
Dave & Paula

[mary and bob]

Removing those 4 bolts from the backing plate can be another problem on a trailer of that age. I was replacing the brake assemblies on our '96 Casita. A couple of the studs, which are pressed into the backing plate, broke loose and started to turn with the nut. Had to drill or grind the head off the studs, which can't be done with the hub and drum in place.

[tractors1]

I'd replace the whole axle assembly with a new one. Not that much more money than fighting with fixing old hubs and probably very worn brakes and bearings.

[FRED SMAILES]

Originally Posted by JeffR

Take the wheel bearings apart and get new hubs. Probably comes with new wheel bearings.

Agree

[jon mck.]

I haven't had a chance because of the rain to check the axle, but if it turns out that it is better for me to replace the whole thing where would you recommend to get it replaced? I've never attempted a repair of that magnitude myself.

[Joe Romas]

Being a 1994 the axle is way past do for replacing. You can also add brakes if you don't have them already.
Don't take it to a RV place!
Go to someplace that makes trailers like live stock trailers or food trailers or a frame and spring place.
first do your homework and find out the exact specifications of your current axle so the correct replacement can be ordered. I ordered my new axle for our 1999 last week.

[jon mck.]

Thanks, Joe. There are a couple of trailer stores near by, I'll stop by one of them this weekend and see if they would be able to do put the new axle on. Now I'll start looking into which axle I need.

[Borrego Dave]

Originally Posted by jon mck.

Thanks, Joe. There are a couple of trailer stores near by, I'll stop by one of them this weekend and see if they would be able to do put the new axle on. Now I'll start looking into which axle I need.

Give Scamp a call, they can give you the correct info on your axle. Should save you a bunch of time doing a lot of web searching.

[thrifty bill]

+10 I made the mistake of replacing bearings, hub assemblies, etc. By the time I was done, I had spent as much as a new complete axle would have cost, and I had a 20 year old axle, with new parts on it. S T U P I D.

It kind of crept up on me cost wise. Failure was on the road, while I was on a trip. So I had fewer options. Until you get everything apart, you really don't know how much you have to replace. But with a 24 year old axle, its time to replace it all. IF you just replace part of it, you leave the rest of it to fail on you later, which will cost you A LOT more!

[jon mck.]

Thanks for the advice everyone. Contacting Scamp now for their help.

Anybody have a ballpark figure on his much this will set me back?

[Joe Romas]

Originally Posted by jon mck.

Anybody have a ballpark figure on his much this will set me back?

On another forum today I saw $5xx mentioned for a complete axle. (parts only)

My axle beam only is $272 so add hubs, complete backing plates, bearings and hardware $5xx sounds right.

I have newer brakes and new bearings and seals.

[Huck]

I had an unmentionable experience where I damaged the lugs.

Any tire shop should be able to replace the lugs. It is a quick job and fairly inexpensive. They will probably have to get the lugs from an auto parts store, but other than that it is straight forward.

I'll leave bearings and axles to others who know what they are talking about.

[jon mck.]

Finally got a chance to really go at the stuck lug nut and spinning lug. With a combination of drilling and judiciously whacking with a hammer I got the lug nut to break apart. Not the most skilled job, but it got the lug nut off.

For now I've put the new tires on with just 4 lug nuts on the one. I'll see about picking up a replacement lug soon. I'm holding off for now on replacing the axle.

Thanks everyone.

[John in Santa Cruz]

I thought the studs were installed in the brake drums? I dunno, but I think if a stud came out, I'd want to replace the drum to ensure the threads that the stud are in are undamaged...

be a good time to check the condition of the brakes, too, and replace the shoes and magnet if they are even 50% worn

[jon mck.]

No brakes to worry about on my older 13'.