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09-27-2014, 11:07 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Name: Tony
Trailer: Scamp - "The Haunted Mansion" (13') and TBD (16')
Colorado
Posts: 290
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New axle question
We just bought our 13' Scamp which was completely gutted. We are planning to remove the shell to have the frame taken in and have the tongue repaired due to PO-caused damage. While we are at it, we will have it checked...but, we are considering replacing the axle... We think it may be a 1980s model - it's a long story - but we are concerned about the height if we put a new axle on it... right now it fits nicely in our garage. That said, I have a few questions: 1) What do we get? 2) Who do we get it from? Scamp or Dexter? 3) How does one order it? I didn't see a place online for either Scamp or Dexter.... I just want to make sure we use the time with the egg off wisely!
Thanks!
Tony & Myka
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Fiberglass RV mobile app
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09-27-2014, 11:22 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1988 16 ft Scamp Deluxe
Posts: 25,697
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Don't know where in Colorado you're located. But, there's a Redneck Trailer Supply dealer in your state. Redneck Trailer Supplies - 20 National Branch Locations Redneck, different locals, have been used by members over the years.
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
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09-27-2014, 11:38 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Trailer: Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel
Posts: 1,861
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Tony
Removing a Scamp frame is quite a task since is screwed to the floor in quite a few places and the frame is glassed to the shell on either side of the door. You might want to just pull out the front upper floor section to do your frame repair.
Your replacement axle will be a #9 Dexter. Redneck trailer is a distributor for Dexter and they have a branch in your state. If you pick up the axle from them you usually pay no shipping. You will have to provide all the specs for the axle to be built by. You can specify the swing arm angle to sit low if the is what you desire.
Eddie
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09-27-2014, 11:54 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Trailer: Class A Motorhome
Posts: 7,912
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If your Scamp "Fits Nicely" with a standard 7' door opening I would guess that your current axle is collapsed from old age and, you are right, a new axle will raise it somewhat. This is an oft discussed problem, that of fitting Scamps in garages and the most popular answer, that doesn't involve structural work to the garage, is to substitute smaller wheel when parking/storing. Fortunately there are a number of 8" wheels used on Tent Trailers that can be used on Scamps to drop the trailer a few inches.
Look in the back posts with the search function using the word "Garage" and you should see several discussions and solutions.
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09-27-2014, 12:26 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Name: David
Trailer: Former 13’Scamp, now Snoozy
Arizona
Posts: 2,316
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I really liked the Flexiride axle that we had installed on our 13' Scamp, as it gave me the opportunity to adjust the height of the lift anytime I desired (when off-roading esp.) A local trailer specialty shop did the install.
Flexiride Rubber Torsion Axles
Dave & Paula
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09-27-2014, 07:56 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Name: Tony
Trailer: Scamp - "The Haunted Mansion" (13') and TBD (16')
Colorado
Posts: 290
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Thanks all for the advice. We sorta figured it would need to be replaced... Now THAT said, what is a ball park figure for the cost of the parts?
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09-27-2014, 08:01 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Name: Tony
Trailer: Scamp - "The Haunted Mansion" (13') and TBD (16')
Colorado
Posts: 290
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And...what are the original specs? I can measure the frame, but what should the down angle be? Also, the arm on there now is aimed forward. Do we need to change it to a trailing arm?
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09-27-2014, 08:23 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Trailer: Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel
Posts: 1,861
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If you are lucky there will be a metal tag attached to your axle. If you have a square tube axle provide the info. to Dexter and they can give you all the orig. specs. If not Dexter and/or dealers provide info. on measuring your new axle. A new axle will cost $300-600 depending on options for axle alone W/O shipping or inst. If you change lug patterns then figure new wheels. Front/rear mounting either way works but it's usually easier to go with what you have. If you do go with a forward facing configuration your brakes will have to be swapped.
Eddie
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09-27-2014, 08:34 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Name: Tony
Trailer: Scamp - "The Haunted Mansion" (13') and TBD (16')
Colorado
Posts: 290
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Eddie...with our luck, there probably won't be a tag, but we will check. There are no brakes on the unit at all. It's just a little 13'... is that something we should have? I assume we should also replace hubs as well?
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09-27-2014, 08:42 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Name: Jon
Trailer: 2008 Scamp 13 S1
Arizona
Posts: 11,925
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New axle question
I would absolutely add brakes when swapping the axle. Pretty much all small and midsize TVs (and some states) require them now, even for a 13'er. Axle will last maybe 20 years. Pretty likely you or another future owner will want them before then.
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09-27-2014, 08:50 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Trailer: Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel
Posts: 1,861
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Most people want brakes and they are cheaper to order with a new axle than to add later. Tow vehicles are much smaller than they were in the 80's and a lot of cars specify brakes on trailers over 1000 lbs.
When you order your new axle you specify the bolt pattern you want. You most likely have a 4x4 pattern. A lot of people change over to 5X4.5 pattern because of a better selection of wheels.
Eddie
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09-28-2014, 07:51 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Trailer: Class A Motorhome
Posts: 7,912
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Although Colorado has a very high requirement for trailer brakes (3000 lbs.) many, if not most states have a requirement that those weighing 1500 lbs. or more have brakes. Although the factory weight for a 13' Scamp is substantially under that figure, actual weights are somewhat higher, usually well over 1500 lbs.
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...rld-43010.html
Bottom line: Get brakes with your new axle. And don't forget a break-away safety switch.
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09-28-2014, 09:34 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1972 Boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
Posts: 5,137
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sohkraites
There are no brakes on the unit at all. It's just a little 13'... is that something we should have?
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Should, depends on your tow vehicle. My Ranger stops better towing a trailer with electric brakes than it does on it's own. Given your location, I assume you will hit a few more hills than others. Brakes are handy.
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09-28-2014, 09:46 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Trailer: 92 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 11,756
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Even with a 13' you will notice the difference having brakes. Adding brakes to the trailer is in the long run is cheaper than replacing the brakes on your tug far more frequently due to towing a trailer without them.
Not to mention most smaller tugs these days require brakes on a trailer if its over x so many pounds - often 1000 or 1500lbs which most Scamp 13's are .... so just having the axle with the flange on it that allows brakes to be added will add to the resale value of your trailer.
Its a win win situation.
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09-28-2014, 12:08 PM
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#15
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Member
Name: will
Trailer: 16' Scamp
Wyoming
Posts: 70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sohkraites
Thanks all for the advice. We sorta figured it would need to be replaced... Now THAT said, what is a ball park figure for the cost of the parts?
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My cost for a new Dexter # 10 axle with brakes and 3 new tire/wheel assy's was $745.00 plus local tax
Dexter has an axle order form which shows all measurements required to order a new axle.
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09-28-2014, 03:00 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Name: Jared
Trailer: 1984 19' scamp
Kansas
Posts: 1,610
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FWIW, I called scamp and ordered one for my 19'. Two days later I was installing it.
It may have cost more, but it fit right the first time, which is more than a lot of people on here can say about independent shops they had order one.
Sent from my iPhone using Fiberglass RV
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11-05-2014, 10:21 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Name: Tony
Trailer: Scamp - "The Haunted Mansion" (13') and TBD (16')
Colorado
Posts: 290
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Ok. The axle was ordered and received -- Redneck Trailer supply was very patient with me in getting all the measurements...and they were very easy to work with. Got the brakes, too. With the brake controller, the brakes and the axle the damage was only $550...so I thought we did pretty well...and the new axle looks great! I'll be taking it over to the welding shop where the tongue is being replaced and have the axle done at the same time.
The question is now...do I have them weld it on as a LEADING arm or have them rework some of the frame structure to make it a TRAILING arm? Obviously, it'd be easier to make it the leading arm as it is now, but I've read here on the forums that if we install it that way we may have problems. Is that the case?
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11-06-2014, 03:15 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
Name: Jared
Trailer: 1984 19' scamp
Kansas
Posts: 1,610
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This should have been decided before it was ordered. You might need brackets moved, and the backing plates will need swapped side to side depending on which way the axle was built for.
My personal preference would be to have nothing to do with a leading arm setup, and convert it to trailing arm. That being said, I don't know what issues that will cause with the frame design, I've never looked under a 13'.
Sent from my iPhone using Fiberglass RV
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11-06-2014, 08:24 AM
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#19
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Senior Member
Name: Tim
Trailer: '88 Scamp 16, layout 4
North Florida
Posts: 1,547
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I would think if you ordered an axle with the angle specs for leading arm then that is how you need to mount it. There are a lot of Scamps out there being towed successfully that way without issue. Now if you just want a lot of ground clearance and the axle will work (check toe in/out and camber issues) then a trailing arm setup might work. But as Jared said, this decision should have been made before ordering the axle.
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11-06-2014, 09:27 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
Name: Tony
Trailer: Scamp - "The Haunted Mansion" (13') and TBD (16')
Colorado
Posts: 290
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The original, and I do mean ORIGINAL axle was welded to the frame directly, not with a bracket welded to the frame abd the axle booked to the bracket. So, that in mind, the new axle was ordered with the leading arm specs. However, when the trailer was taken to the weld shop, the guy said he'd never seen a configuration like that...only as a trailing arm and suggested it be mounted as a trailing arm. That's why I asked. I will probably just go ahead and have him mount it the way it was ordered and originally installed.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Fiberglass RV mobile app
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