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09-18-2014, 08:37 PM
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#1
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Member
Name: DJO
Trailer: Parkliner #40 something
Colorado
Posts: 47
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Parkliner fixed!
Our local body shop has fixed our wheel rubbing. They came up with bolting a new custom made axle underneath the stock axle. No more tire rub, better ground clearance and it pulls better than ever!
Tom was great about staying the course and answering every call. Chandler came thru with covering the cost.
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09-18-2014, 08:52 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Name: Charlie
Trailer: 2014 Lil Snoozy
North Carolina
Posts: 779
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Great. How much weight did it add?
Sent from my iPad using Fiberglass RV
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09-18-2014, 09:16 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Name: Mike
Trailer: 2012 Escape 19
Oklahoma
Posts: 5,906
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That's the first trailer I've ever seen with a spare axle built in.  But seriously, it looks good and your post is heartening.
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09-18-2014, 10:44 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Name: deryk
Trailer: 2012 Parkliner 2010 V6 Nissan Frontier 4x4
New Jersey
Posts: 2,085
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Awesome!
Now I have the flexrider axle (I think thats what its called lol) that is adjustable but with all my off roading it has no rub marks. But can I ask what it cost and what kind of axle you went with?
Thanks!
__________________
deryk
All that is gold does not glitter, Not all those who wander are lost; The old that is strong does not wither, Deep roots are not reached by the frost.... J.R.R. Tolkien
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09-19-2014, 07:03 AM
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#5
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member
Name: J
Isle of Wight
Posts: 536
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DJO
Our local body shop has fixed our wheel rubbing. They came up with bolting a new custom made axle underneath the stock axle....
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I dont get it. Help me understand. Why not just insert a lift kit between the frame and the original axle?
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09-19-2014, 07:11 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Name: bob
Trailer: 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
Posts: 5,382
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Look at the picture Jim, the original axle is welded into the frame
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09-19-2014, 07:19 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Name: deryk
Trailer: 2012 Parkliner 2010 V6 Nissan Frontier 4x4
New Jersey
Posts: 2,085
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yeah it would be alot of work to cut the old one out, and raise it up. I will eventually when my axle sags of I can't purchase the parts to readjust mine I will probably do the same thing and be good for another 20 years. I kinda wonder why ParkLiner just didnt do the same thing... would have saved them a lot of time and money redoing the wheel wells.
__________________
deryk
All that is gold does not glitter, Not all those who wander are lost; The old that is strong does not wither, Deep roots are not reached by the frost.... J.R.R. Tolkien
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09-19-2014, 07:21 AM
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#8
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member
Name: J
Isle of Wight
Posts: 536
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mary and bob
Look at the picture Jim, the original axle is welded into the frame
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OK - now I understand, Thanks!
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09-19-2014, 07:24 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Name: bob
Trailer: 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
Posts: 5,382
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Deryk, Is the axle installed in a way that it becomes part of the frame? Looks that way to me. Kind of a poor design if you consider the possibility of ever having to replace it.
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09-19-2014, 07:26 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Name: Dale
Trailer: 2010 EggCamper; 2002 Highlander 3.0L; 2017 Escape 21'; 2016 F-150 5.0L Fx4
Colorado
Posts: 744
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mary and bob
Look at the picture Jim, the original axle is welded into the frame
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I was under the impression from posts several months back that ParkLiner was going to stop welding the frame to the axle and start bolting it like I believe flex axle manufacturers recommend. This is ParkLiner #040. Can any more recent original purchasers share with us their ParkLiner camper # and if their trailer frame is welded to the axle (like in the photo) or bolted? Just curious....
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09-19-2014, 08:28 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Name: deryk
Trailer: 2012 Parkliner 2010 V6 Nissan Frontier 4x4
New Jersey
Posts: 2,085
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mary and bob
Deryk, Is the axle installed in a way that it becomes part of the frame? Looks that way to me. Kind of a poor design if you consider the possibility of ever having to replace it.
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Yeah mary and bob, mine is welded on that it would be alot of work to replace it...I think welding the 2nd one on right below it is a good idea...gives it more clearance. When mine sags over time because all axle's do eventually I will probably go this route if I am unable to get replacement parts for mine...
__________________
deryk
All that is gold does not glitter, Not all those who wander are lost; The old that is strong does not wither, Deep roots are not reached by the frost.... J.R.R. Tolkien
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09-19-2014, 04:32 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Name: Sid
Trailer: Parkliner 2014
Wisconsin
Posts: 525
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Mine is bolted on and no rub issues. We got ours in May of this year.
Sid
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09-19-2014, 07:24 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2009 Trillium 13 ft ('Homelet') / 2000 Subaru Outback
Posts: 2,219
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Bolted axle
Sid, do you have any pictures? One picture is worth a thousand words, you know.
__________________
A charter member of the Buffalo Plaid Brigade!
Whether you think you can or think you can't, you're right.
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09-19-2014, 09:16 PM
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#14
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Member
Name: DJO
Trailer: Parkliner #40 something
Colorado
Posts: 47
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PL fixed
After many calls around the country and lots of research by our body shop the axle was made for us by a company in Texas. Sorry I don't have the name. The shop gave us a great deal and did the work for $1k.
The new axle is made out of thicker metal than the original. The original was welded to the frame and supports the floor so taking it out was not practical.
I guess it does add some weight to the camper (150lbs?) Good thing that it's down low. No more scraping going out of the driveway.
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09-20-2014, 07:32 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Name: Sid
Trailer: Parkliner 2014
Wisconsin
Posts: 525
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Sorry for the delay Roger, I had to wait for daylight.
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09-20-2014, 09:22 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1981 Trillium 5500
Posts: 1,158
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if you check the picture with the new and old axle, you can see the U bolt at the end.
Joe
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09-20-2014, 08:44 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Name: Dale
Trailer: 2010 EggCamper; 2002 Highlander 3.0L; 2017 Escape 21'; 2016 F-150 5.0L Fx4
Colorado
Posts: 744
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Sid, Do you know the production sequence number of your ParkLiner? That would help give a perspective of when they started bolting the axle on - somewhere between DJO's #040 and your number.
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09-20-2014, 10:10 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Name: Sid
Trailer: Parkliner 2014
Wisconsin
Posts: 525
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I tried to decider that one from my vin number a while back. All I can tell you is that I have the 14 vin number issued in March of 2014. My bet guess it that it is somewhere between #60-#70. 
If anyone could help me narrow it down I would be intrested but it isn't killing me.
Sid
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09-22-2014, 06:38 AM
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#19
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Senior Member
Name: Frank
Trailer: 2012 ParkLiner #006
New York
Posts: 2,273
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Looks great! Tire rub or not, I would love to have my trailer as high as yours. I got to check this out some more, see if I have room to bolt an axle on.
Thanks!
Frank
__________________
2012 ParkLiner #006
2013 4wd 4 door F150 3.5L Ecoboost with 9200# tow package
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09-22-2014, 07:50 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2009 Trillium 13 ft ('Homelet') / 2000 Subaru Outback
Posts: 2,219
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Floor
Any drilling you did through the floor I would recommend that you seal it or coat the hole to prevent the absorption of water and subsequent rotting. (I am surprised to see exposed wood underneath.)
__________________
A charter member of the Buffalo Plaid Brigade!
Whether you think you can or think you can't, you're right.
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