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06-06-2013, 12:23 PM
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#1
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Member
Name: geoff
Trailer: bigfoot
Saskatchewan
Posts: 56
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Question on Bigfoot ground clearance
We recently bought our first camper, a 1981 17' Bigfoot. It is great, other than the fact that it seems to sit very low to the ground. I can't even back it into my driveway because the back bumper hits bottoms out. My current hitch is a bit high, so the camper does not tow level. I went to my welder who made the hitch and asked him to make a new one with a further 2-3/4' drop to level it out, and he suggested flipping the axle leaf springs instead.
I am totally new to towing and campers in general, so I am asking: does this make sense?
His logic is that even with the camper level, it will be very low. He can flip the springs for $300-400, and it will raise the whole camper about 4". Welding a new hitch would cost about $50.
He seems to know what he is talking about ( his business is primarily welding hitches and prepping tow vehicles), but I would like to hear any other opinions.
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06-06-2013, 12:35 PM
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#2
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Member
Name: geoff
Trailer: bigfoot
Saskatchewan
Posts: 56
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Hopefully this picture works. It's a link to Dropbox...
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06-06-2013, 12:42 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Trailer: 92 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 11,756
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No photo. To add a photo go to advanced settings and click on the Paper clip icon and upload it that way.
If the Bigfoot is riding that low it is most probable due to the axle being shoot which based on the age of your trailer is a good bet. Although flipping the axle will give you more clearance I would not bother with flipping an axle of that age and would consider just putting a new axle on the trailer which should result in as much of a lift if not more as he is suggesting you will get by flipping the old axle. You should if you call around be able to get a new Dexter axle installed for only a couple of hundred more than what he is quoting you to flip the old one.
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06-06-2013, 01:14 PM
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#4
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Member
Name: geoff
Trailer: bigfoot
Saskatchewan
Posts: 56
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Aha, I installed the android app on, my phone, this is much easier to navigate and attach pix.
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06-06-2013, 02:30 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Trailer: U-Haul VT16
Posts: 982
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If you go with another axle, upgrade to a 5500 lb with 15" tires.
And yes you need a axle.
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06-06-2013, 02:39 PM
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#6
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Member
Name: geoff
Trailer: bigfoot
Saskatchewan
Posts: 56
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Thanks! I'll call around and see what I can find.
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06-06-2013, 03:00 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1988 16 ft Scamp Deluxe
Posts: 25,710
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spartacus
I went to my welder who made the hitch and asked him to make a new one with a further 2-3/4' drop to level it out,
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Sounds like you need a different drawbar or need to flip the one you have over. That would be cheaper than getting a new hitch.
This will explain what I mean: http://www.easternmarine.com/Trailer...unts-Drawbars/
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
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06-06-2013, 03:12 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1973 Compact Jr and 1980 Bigfoot 17 ft
Posts: 1,339
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Your trailer's ride height looks just like my 1980. If I measure the distance from the top edge of the steel wheel to the lower edge of the fender flair, it's 3". I don't think the steel springs have fatigued and sagged on mine. I think that is how Bigfoot made it. Of course, you can raise the trailer with stiffer springs or a straight axle. Only you can determine if it's worth the cost.
NW New Mexico Photo by tomNjo | Photobucket
__________________
1980 Bigfoot 17' & former owner of 1973 Compact Jr
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06-06-2013, 03:25 PM
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#9
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Member
Name: geoff
Trailer: bigfoot
Saskatchewan
Posts: 56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Donna D.
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I would if I could, but I'm working with a vertical hitch, and limited retail options.
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06-06-2013, 06:41 PM
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#10
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Member
Name: geoff
Trailer: bigfoot
Saskatchewan
Posts: 56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Trostel
Your trailer's ride height looks just like my 1980. If I measure the distance from the top edge of the steel wheel to the lower edge of the fender flair, it's 3". I don't think the steel springs have fatigued and sagged on mine. I think that is how Bigfoot made it. Of course, you can raise the trailer with stiffer springs or a straight axle. Only you can determine if it's worth the cost.
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I measured 2-1/8" clearance from steel to flair, and there is about 7" clearance from the bottom of the spare tire to the ground.
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06-06-2013, 07:16 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Name: Tom
Trailer: none
Minnesota
Posts: 250
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Thats a unusual way to make a drawbar, never seen on like that
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06-06-2013, 08:03 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Name: Mike
Trailer: Bigfoot 17' DLX
Alaska
Posts: 384
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This discussion on axles might help you. I'm going to lift my 1989 BF 17-footer this summer with a straight axle. Seems to be the way to go.
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...7cb-41542.html
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06-06-2013, 08:06 PM
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#13
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Moderator
Trailer: Fiber Stream 1978 / Honda Odyssey LX 2003
Posts: 8,222
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hambone
Thats a unusual way to make a drawbar, never seen one like that
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Draw-Tite Invisi-Hitch Vertical Trailer Hitch Receiver
Chrysler products have them, I saw one once on a Dodge Magnum.
__________________
Frederick - The Scaleman
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06-06-2013, 08:23 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Name: Mike
Trailer: Bigfoot 17' DLX
Alaska
Posts: 384
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frederick L. Simson
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If that's what it is, I wouldn't tow a Bigfoot with it. That's a class 1 hitch, only good for 2,000 gross and 200 lb. tongue. An older 17-ft BF comes in at almost 3,000 lbs. dry, more for the newer ones.
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06-06-2013, 08:38 PM
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#15
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Moderator
Trailer: Fiber Stream 1978 / Honda Odyssey LX 2003
Posts: 8,222
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trainjunkie
If that's what it is, I wouldn't tow a Bigfoot with it. That's a class 1 hitch, only good for 2,000 gross and 200 lb. tongue. An older 17-ft BF comes in at almost 3,000 lbs. dry, more for the newer ones.
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That's what I get for jumping on the 1st search result. They make 'em in Class III also, the Magnum had a Class III, and Geoff's vertical hitch is also Class III.
__________________
Frederick - The Scaleman
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06-06-2013, 08:42 PM
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#16
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Member
Name: geoff
Trailer: bigfoot
Saskatchewan
Posts: 56
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You gave me a scare there, but yes it's a class 3. Chrysler put them on 2009/10 Journeys and Magnums. Then they stopped... Cause they're stupid.
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06-06-2013, 08:43 PM
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#17
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Member
Name: geoff
Trailer: bigfoot
Saskatchewan
Posts: 56
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Inconvenient anyway.
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06-06-2013, 09:30 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Trailer: 92 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 11,756
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Learn something new every day! Explains though why there appears to be little clearance with it on the back of the tug though. Clearly looks to be limiting in regards to how one can go about leveling the trailer out as well. Speaking of which what is that nice looking tug?
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06-07-2013, 07:41 PM
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#19
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Member
Name: Sharon&Roger
Trailer: 2012 13ft Scamp
Missouri
Posts: 51
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Bigfoots proximity to the ground
I have a 1990 17ft that had the same problem. I solved it by removing the axil from the above spring mount and remounted the springs on top of the axil. Do not flip anything. Yes the cost for me was around $600 but well worth it. Take it to a reputable RV repare.
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06-08-2013, 10:22 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
Trailer: Boler (B1700RGH) 1979
Posts: 5,002
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I hope it's clear by now that if the chosen solution is to raise the trailer, this is not a rubber suspension so there is no need to replace the axle just because it might be sagging. If the beam is of the dropped type, the best way to raise it is by replacing it with a straight beam, so some degree of replacement might still be appropriate.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Swasson
I have a 1990 17ft that had the same problem. I solved it by removing the axil from the above spring mount and remounted the springs on top of the axil. Do not flip anything.
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Good point - although this procedure is routinely called "flipping" and axle the correct procedure to convert from spring-under to spring-over is as described above.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Swasson
Yes the cost for me was around $600 but well worth it.
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That seems very expensive for two common spring packs, some hardware, and the labour required to do a conversion to spring-over. It would be good for a complete replacement.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Swasson
Take it to a reputable RV repare.
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Since there is nothing RV-specific about this, a spring shop or trailer builder are also good - and likely cheaper - options.
__________________
1979 Boler B1700RGH, pulled by 2004 Toyota Sienna LE 2WD
Information is good. Lack of information is not so good, but misinformation is much worse. Check facts, and apply common sense liberally.
STATUS: No longer active in forum.
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