Question on Bigfoot ground clearance

[spartacus]

We recently bought our first camper, a 1981 17' Bigfoot. It is great, other than the fact that it seems to sit very low to the ground. I can't even back it into my driveway because the back bumper hits bottoms out. My current hitch is a bit high, so the camper does not tow level. I went to my welder who made the hitch and asked him to make a new one with a further 2-3/4' drop to level it out, and he suggested flipping the axle leaf springs instead.

I am totally new to towing and campers in general, so I am asking: does this make sense?

His logic is that even with the camper level, it will be very low. He can flip the springs for $300-400, and it will raise the whole camper about 4". Welding a new hitch would cost about $50.

He seems to know what he is talking about ( his business is primarily welding hitches and prepping tow vehicles), but I would like to hear any other opinions.

[spartacus]

Hopefully this picture works. It's a link to Dropbox...

[Carol H]

No photo. To add a photo go to advanced settings and click on the Paper clip icon and upload it that way.

If the Bigfoot is riding that low it is most probable due to the axle being shoot which based on the age of your trailer is a good bet. Although flipping the axle will give you more clearance I would not bother with flipping an axle of that age and would consider just putting a new axle on the trailer which should result in as much of a lift if not more as he is suggesting you will get by flipping the old axle. You should if you call around be able to get a new Dexter axle installed for only a couple of hundred more than what he is quoting you to flip the old one.

[spartacus]

Aha, I installed the android app on, my phone, this is much easier to navigate and attach pix.

[mszabo]

If you go with another axle, upgrade to a 5500 lb with 15" tires.
And yes you need a axle.

[spartacus]

Thanks! I'll call around and see what I can find.

[Donna D.]

Originally Posted by spartacus

I went to my welder who made the hitch and asked him to make a new one with a further 2-3/4' drop to level it out,

Sounds like you need a different drawbar or need to flip the one you have over. That would be cheaper than getting a new hitch.

This will explain what I mean: http://www.easternmarine.com/Trailer...unts-Drawbars/

[Tom Trostel]

Your trailer's ride height looks just like my 1980. If I measure the distance from the top edge of the steel wheel to the lower edge of the fender flair, it's 3". I don't think the steel springs have fatigued and sagged on mine. I think that is how Bigfoot made it. Of course, you can raise the trailer with stiffer springs or a straight axle. Only you can determine if it's worth the cost.

NW New Mexico Photo by tomNjo | Photobucket

[spartacus]

Originally Posted by Donna D.

Sounds like you need a different drawbar or need to flip the one you have over. That would be cheaper than getting a new hitch.

This will explain what I mean: http://www.easternmarine.com/Trailer...unts-Drawbars/

I would if I could, but I'm working with a vertical hitch, and limited retail options.

[spartacus]

Originally Posted by Tom Trostel

Your trailer's ride height looks just like my 1980. If I measure the distance from the top edge of the steel wheel to the lower edge of the fender flair, it's 3". I don't think the steel springs have fatigued and sagged on mine. I think that is how Bigfoot made it. Of course, you can raise the trailer with stiffer springs or a straight axle. Only you can determine if it's worth the cost.

I measured 2-1/8" clearance from steel to flair, and there is about 7" clearance from the bottom of the spare tire to the ground.

[Hambone]

Thats a unusual way to make a drawbar, never seen on like that

[trainjunkie]

This discussion on axles might help you. I'm going to lift my 1989 BF 17-footer this summer with a straight axle. Seems to be the way to go.

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...7cb-41542.html

[Frederick L. Simson]

Originally Posted by Hambone

Thats a unusual way to make a drawbar, never seen one like that

Draw-Tite Invisi-Hitch Vertical Trailer Hitch Receiver

Chrysler products have them, I saw one once on a Dodge Magnum.

[trainjunkie]

Originally Posted by Frederick L. Simson

Draw-Tite Invisi-Hitch Vertical Trailer Hitch Receiver

Chrysler products have them, I saw one once on a Dodge Magnum.

If that's what it is, I wouldn't tow a Bigfoot with it. That's a class 1 hitch, only good for 2,000 gross and 200 lb. tongue. An older 17-ft BF comes in at almost 3,000 lbs. dry, more for the newer ones.

[Frederick L. Simson]

Originally Posted by trainjunkie

If that's what it is, I wouldn't tow a Bigfoot with it. That's a class 1 hitch, only good for 2,000 gross and 200 lb. tongue. An older 17-ft BF comes in at almost 3,000 lbs. dry, more for the newer ones.

That's what I get for jumping on the 1st search result. They make 'em in Class III also, the Magnum had a Class III, and Geoff's vertical hitch is also Class III.

[spartacus]

You gave me a scare there, but yes it's a class 3. Chrysler put them on 2009/10 Journeys and Magnums. Then they stopped... Cause they're stupid.

[spartacus]

Inconvenient anyway.

[Carol H]

Learn something new every day! Explains though why there appears to be little clearance with it on the back of the tug though. Clearly looks to be limiting in regards to how one can go about leveling the trailer out as well. Speaking of which what is that nice looking tug?

[Swasson]

I have a 1990 17ft that had the same problem. I solved it by removing the axil from the above spring mount and remounted the springs on top of the axil. Do not flip anything. Yes the cost for me was around $600 but well worth it. Take it to a reputable RV repare.

[Brian B-P]

I hope it's clear by now that if the chosen solution is to raise the trailer, this is not a rubber suspension so there is no need to replace the axle just because it might be sagging. If the beam is of the dropped type, the best way to raise it is by replacing it with a straight beam, so some degree of replacement might still be appropriate.

Originally Posted by Swasson

I have a 1990 17ft that had the same problem. I solved it by removing the axil from the above spring mount and remounted the springs on top of the axil. Do not flip anything.

Good point - although this procedure is routinely called "flipping" and axle the correct procedure to convert from spring-under to spring-over is as described above.

Originally Posted by Swasson

Yes the cost for me was around $600 but well worth it.

That seems very expensive for two common spring packs, some hardware, and the labour required to do a conversion to spring-over. It would be good for a complete replacement.

Originally Posted by Swasson

Take it to a reputable RV repare.

Since there is nothing RV-specific about this, a spring shop or trailer builder are also good - and likely cheaper - options.