Questions about ball wear

[Iowa Dave]

My 1921 Waterloo 2 1/2 horsepower gas engine has been chugging away for a century now. With a lead babbitt connecting rod and drip oiler for piston/cylinder lubrication she’s ready to hook up to the belt and do some more work. Grease and oil make that possible. There is no church of grease or I would have been named a high priest many years ago. We pull a few farm wagons in Iowa and build a few tractors too. I’ve always had enough money for a tube of grease and a cold beer at the end of the day of hard work.
Iowa Dave

[Perryb67]

Originally Posted by Iowa Dave

My 1921 Waterloo 2 1/2 horsepower gas engine has been chugging away for a century now. With a lead babbitt connecting rod and drip oiler for piston/cylinder lubrication she’s ready to hook up to the belt and do some more work. Grease and oil make that possible. There is no church of grease or I would have been named a high priest many years ago. We pull a few farm wagons in Iowa and build a few tractors too. I’ve always had enough money for a tube of grease and a cold beer at the end of the day of hard work.
Iowa Dave

Except your response has nothing to do with a camper ball.

BTW, had a great time at Pikes Peak State Park last week! Only 80 miles away, so we'll be going back.

Enjoy,

Perry

[Darwin Maring]

Originally Posted by Perryb67

Except your response has nothing to do with a camper ball.

BTW, had a great time at Pikes Peak State Park last week! Only 80 miles away, so we'll be going back.

Enjoy,

Perry

It most certainly has something to do with the ball. If you had kept up with the discussion you would have learned the metal on metal moving parts require lubrication.

[Darwin Maring]

Originally Posted by Perryb67

Church of Grease!

I see many here belong to the Church of Grease.

I've got 2-300,000 miles pulling farm implement trailers and campers. Don't remember anyone pulling a farm implement trailer who greased their ball, although I'm sure there were a couple. Never had a coupler wear out and there is one hell of a lot of weight on a farm implement trailer ball.

They dealers I would drive for always had a 1 ton truck and you always loaded the front to avoid sway (yes, there is nothing with a 1 ton truck that makes it avoid sway any better than an 1/2 ton, but many 1 ton owners don't grasp the physics). I did grease our first camper a few times, but got sick of dealing with grease.



For a few decades I pulled our campers/implement trailers, without greasing, then I found out about the Andersen Greaseless Harball, best of both worlds. At $11.99 plus shipping for the 1 7/8" or 2" its cheap and considering the savings on grease cost/clean clothes/hands/buying a ball boot/wax paper/etc, I can't imagine not buying one, but you can lead a horse to water............

Enjoy,

Perry

If you dont think greesing the ball is OK then why would you even consider purchasing a greaseless ball?

Eliminate the need to grease the ball or coupler. Add a Greaseless HardBall with your AlumiStinger. The ball is made of plated steel and features a 1/8" thick cap that reduces wear and tear on the ball and coupler.
Never have to lubricate ball or coupler ever again
Fits AlumiStinger and all traditional ball mounts with 1" hole.
Meets V5 and SAE J684 certifications.

[Perryb67]

Originally Posted by Darwin Maring

It most certainly has something to do with the ball. If you had kept up with the discussion you would have learned the metal on metal moving parts require lubrication.

Apparently you didn't read my response in post 20. The ball does not need lubrication and I'm not the only one here who understands that concept. Except for a couple of times with a camper I haven't needed grease on trailer balls since I started pulling trailers in the 60's, including 2-300,000 miles pulling campers and implement trailers and never damaged the ball or coupler. I don't worry about a little chrome damage since it doesn't affect the ability to pull a camper or implement trailer.

Originally Posted by Darwin Maring

If you dont think greesing the ball is OK then why would you even consider purchasing a greaseless ball?

I had to purchase a ball and said, "Why not." At Andersen's price it didn't exactly affect my bottom line. Both Andersen balls and respective weight distribution hitches were sold with the campers.

I put the Andersen Greaseless Hardball out there for those who won't go without and want lubrication. Forums are to help others and I simply provided a greaseless option.

The ball I have now for my utility trailer is an old, scratched 2" ball and I still won't or need to grease. YMMV.

Enjoy,

Perry

[ShelbyM]

Originally Posted by Perryb67

The ball does not need lubrication and I'm not the only one here who understands that concept.

I'll admit to not understanding, but willing to learn. What is unique about trailer balls/couplers that sets them apart from other metal on metal applications?

[AlanKilian]

Originally Posted by Perryb67

The ball does not need lubrication and I'm not the only one here who understands that concept.

If I don't put a tiny bit of lube on my ball I hear squeeks and squalks whenever I'm not towing down a perfectly flat road with no bumps. My experimental evidence says that I'm one of those people who do not have success with an unlubed ball.

So I understand the reason people want to lube a ball a tiny bit for some applications.

There's no one right way even though some on here say there is and verbally belittle those who have different experiences than they do. That's normal, but makes the community a little less nice to be a part of.

[Perryb67]

Originally Posted by ShelbyM

I'll admit to not understanding, but willing to learn. What is unique about trailer balls/couplers that sets them apart from other metal on metal applications?

Easy. The wear is so slow you won't wear the ball out, but some want to compare it to an engine that is running at easily 100-1,000 more revolutions per minute, that has been proven to wear parts out easily/quickly. Totally different situations. I do use oil in my engines and use a proven light lube on my bicycle chains. A properly manufactured, cared for ball should last most here a few decades, greased or ungreased.

_____________________________________

If someone can't stand the sound of their ball in the campground they can always lubricate their ball. Notice I said, "they can always lubricate their ball." In over six decades of pulling trailers I've never had this problem, but that's just me. In all honesty though, I purchased hearing aids last May.

It seems I'm being castigated here for having an opinion on the "need" to lubricate the ball. The "Church of Grease" was meant as a joke folks, lighten up.

In the 60's I learned if grease is not properly cleaned frequently it acts as a dirt magnet and will wear your ball at an unacceptable rate. How many here clean their receiver when they clean their ball. I doubt it's even 50%. The receiver has as much grease/dirt as the ball. I've been to enough rallies to notice how well some keep their balls clean.

Only our last camper was purchased new. Our previous 15 campers (not even counting utility/farm trailers) were purchased used and the ball and receiver were immediately cleaned of all grease. For the past few decades I've used electrical contact cleaner to flush dirt out of the receiver.

Just because I gave an opinion that was backed with my experiences does not mean it's wrong, just different from others opinion. You can always ignore me, but if you quote me, or imply a quote, I'll probably give my side.

Again, for those wanting to grease, I previously gave a link to be best of both worlds, the Andersen Greaseless Hardball. I probably won't buy another, but forums exist to give advice, sometimes it's advice I don't agree with, but we each should be able to discuss openly.

To sunnyone, the original poster, since you went without grease for a while, but now are experiencing squeaking, I would first clean the receiver liberally using electrical contact cleaner. If that doesn't work, either purchase an Andersen Hardball, or grease as others have done. I won't be offended.

Enjoy,

Perry

[charlsara]

I am with Perry on the Anderson ball. I have been using them for some time. It does erk me that a replacement ball cap is impossible to find anywhere. When I did find one they wanted as much for it as a new ball. I think they are trying to sell more balls.

[jerrybob]

From a recent sermon at the Church of Grease.......

SAY HALLELUJAH GREASE! PRAISE THE NON SQUEAKERS!

May all your future camping trips be blessed!

[Iowa Dave]

Originally Posted by jerrybob

From a recent sermon at the Church of Grease.......

SAY HALLELUJAH GREASE! PRAISE THE NON SQUEAKERS!

May all your future camping trips be blessed!

AMEN
Brother Iowa Dave

[charlsara]

Update. I found these at SuspensionConnection.com, two for ten dollars and change. I haven’t got them yet but should be here on 12/14. Etrailer wanted 19.00 a piece. That is about what a new Greaseless ball costs.

[AC0GV]

Originally Posted by charlsara

Update. I found these at SuspensionConnection.com, two for ten dollars and change. I haven’t got them yet but should be here on 12/14. Etrailer wanted 19.00 a piece. That is about what a new Greaseless ball costs.

Did you mean to post a picture of the replacement cap for the Anderson grease-less ball?

[AlanKilian]

Originally Posted by AC0GV

Did you mean to post a picture of the replacement cap for the Anderson grease-less ball? You still need to buy the ball.

Scroll up where he says he uses them and complained about the cost of the replacement caps.

[AC0GV]

Originally Posted by AlanKilian

Scroll up where he says he uses them and complained about the cost of the replacement caps.

I changed my comment.