Reese sway control - Fiberglass RV
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Old 07-13-2018, 08:20 PM   #1
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Name: Roxanne
Trailer: Casita
Minnesota
Posts: 18
Reese sway control

Is anyone using the Reese Pro-series Friction Sway Control kit with their Casita? I am wondering if you are satisfied with its performance AND-- how did you mount the plate on the side of the Casita hitch? Didn't the channel in the place on the hitch where the plate needs to be bolted on prevent it from being bolted on correctly? How did you remedy that? Or am I not understanding something about the installation? Help!
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Old 07-14-2018, 04:10 PM   #2
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Name: Ed
Trailer: Casita 17 ft SD
Colorado
Posts: 206
Reese hitch

When I installed an Eqil-iz-Er hitch with friction sway control on my Casita 17ft SD I had to raise the propane tanks one inch. Then I had to tack weld the anti sway brackets to keep them from slipping on the frame.
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Old 07-14-2018, 06:23 PM   #3
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Trailer: Y2K6 Bigfoot 25 ft (25B25RQ) & Y2K3 Scamp 16 ft Side Dinette
Posts: 5,040
The problem with friction bars in general is that they don't know which way the bar is supposed to be held, so if it gets extended, it'll try to hold it that way just as much as keeping it in a straight line when it's tracking properly.

For that reason, friction sway controls must be loosened under reduced traction situations which is, of course, when you need them most.

I would suggest a weight-equalizing, sway control hitch setup, especially with the tongue weight of a Casita 17.
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Old 07-14-2018, 06:37 PM   #4
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Name: Ed
Trailer: Casita 17 ft SD
Colorado
Posts: 206
Sway bars

Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger H View Post
The problem with friction bars in general is that they don't know which way the bar is supposed to be held, so if it gets extended, it'll try to hold it that way just as much as keeping it in a straight line when it's tracking properly.

For that reason, friction sway controls must be loosened under reduced traction situations which is, of course, when you need them most.

I would suggest a weight-equalizing, sway control hitch setup, especially with the tongue weight of a Casita 17.
This is a new one for me, have never ever heard of this before. I've put thousands of miles on my setup with never a problem. In the mountains, Forest Service camp grounds, BLM camping, commercial camp grounds, never had a problem. Those friction sway bars work great in sixty mph cross winds. Never had an issue. I'm pulling a Casita 17ft SD
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Old 07-14-2018, 07:40 PM   #5
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Trailer: Y2K6 Bigfoot 25 ft (25B25RQ) & Y2K3 Scamp 16 ft Side Dinette
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ehoepner View Post
This is a new one for me, have never ever heard of this before. I've put thousands of miles on my setup with never a problem. In the mountains, Forest Service camp grounds, BLM camping, commercial camp grounds, never had a problem. Those friction sway bars work great in sixty mph cross winds. Never had an issue. I'm pulling a Casita 17ft SD
From the Reese instructions:

Quote:
IMPORTANT:

SWAY CONTROL CANNOT BE USED ON TRAILERS WITH SURGE BRAKES.
Trailer loading: Proper trailer loading is your first-line defense against dangerous instability and sway. Heavy items should be placed on the floor in front of the axle. The load should be balanced side-to-side and secured to prevent shifting. Tongue weight should be about 10-15 percent of gross trailer weight for most trailers. Too low a percentage of tongue weight can cause sway. Load the trailer heavier in front.
The handle (5) is an on/off device. The bolt (7) below is for adjustment only.
When towing during slippery conditions such as wet, icy, or snow-covered roads or on loose gravel, turn on/off handle (5) counterclockwise until all tension is removed from unit. Failure to do so could prevent tow vehicle and trailer from turning properly. (emphasis added)
Do not speed up if sway occurs. Sway increases with speed. Do not continue to operate a swaying vehicle. Check trailer loading, sway control adjustment, and all other equipment, until the cause of sway has been determined and corrected.
Never paint or lubricate slide bar (6).
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