Shopping for a new axle

[jcham1970]

I found a website that sells dexter axels, so I called with a couple questions. I am looking at ordering a torqflex #9. The guy I spoke with said its not designed to be mounted in the way my scamp 13' is, where the tires are ahead of the axle. I am wondering if this is true? I don't see any other way it could be mounted due to the dropped floor ahead of the axle.

[Thomas G.]

You might find some of these threads of interest:

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/m...arm+axle&sa=Go

[floyd]

Early Scamp 13's had 1200# leading arm axles like yours.
Leading arm axles were used on some Scamp 13's up until the early 2000's
later switching entirely to the trailing arm.
You could relocate your axle and increase it to a 2200# axle or call Dexter directly and they will still build you a leading arm 1200#axle, they may even offer you a choice in angle and/or capacity like they do on their production axles.

[jcham1970]

Thanks Thomas and Floyd, I will look into the options. Right now my axle is leading arm, and the arm is angled upward at I would say 10-22 degrees, which makes it sit pretty low. I would like it to sit about 4" higher, regardless of the axle I choose.

[renewableart]

when i talked to dexter last week. they told me if i install as scamp or leading they would not warranty the axle i would have to install as a training axle.... then there was a 4 to 5 week turn around to get the axle. i put spring axle under mine this past week.

[floyd]

Originally Posted by jcham1970

Thanks Thomas and Floyd, I will look into the options. Right now my axle is leading arm, and the arm is angled upward at I would say 10-22 degrees, which makes it sit pretty low. I would like it to sit about 4" higher, regardless of the axle I choose.

Your axle was 22 up... a zero should do the trick.

[floyd]

Originally Posted by renewableart

when i talked to dexter last week. they told me if i install as scamp or leading they would not warranty the axle i would have to install as a training axle.... then there was a 4 to 5 week turn around to get the axle. i put spring axle under mine this past week.

I can't recall but I think that the really old axles were zero degrees Toe. The new ones might be an 1/8th or so Toe-in.
If there is Toe-in then the arm direction would make a difference, at zero it's hard to see how it could matter.
Dexter's tech guy told me some years ago that they would still make a leading arm axle if ordered.
As for warranty, without an obvious material defect or grossly obvious overloading, a torflex should last five years,no problem. They don't cover wrecking it anyway.

"Yes suh Amos, ya know the big print giveth and the fine print takethe away!"
(...Kingfish)

[jcham1970]

So, after some research, I think I am going to weld on a spacer to my frame that will allow me to put a trailing axle mounted under my dropped floor, while retaining the same hub location. So Floyd, are you saying a 0 degree axle will give me about a 4" lift? Seems about right, as mounting the axle under my dropped floor, with the same axle I have now, will lift the trailer 3".

[floyd]

Originally Posted by jcham1970

So, after some research, I think I am going to weld on a spacer to my frame that will allow me to put a trailing axle mounted under my dropped floor, while retaining the same hub location. So Floyd, are you saying a 0 degree axle will give me about a 4" lift? Seems about right, as mounting the axle under my dropped floor, with the same axle I have now, will lift the trailer 3".

Too many factors to be exact, but that's a reasonable guess.

[jcham1970]

Thanks! I think I have a good idea now what I need to do.

[David B.]

Jeremy, I went with the Flexiride for same reason as you ..... so many variables. I had to change from a leading arm to a trailing arm set up with spacers on the frame. This really raised the height of the trailer, and I still wanted to be able to store it in the garage. The Flexiride allowed me to be able to angle the arms up low enough that when combined with golf cart rims without tires, I can just get it through the 7 foot door opening using my Jeeps winch to drag it in.

[Roy in TO]

Originally Posted by floyd

Too many factors to be exact, but that's a reasonable guess.

Sorry, can't agree with that. The details and specs are out there. If the OP asks after reading and trying to understand my thread on an axle swap, I'll send them a spreadsheet covering many variables I used in determining the specs for my axle swap.
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...arm-37248.html

It is well worth the effort learning about these axles.

[floyd]

Originally Posted by Roy in TO

Sorry, can't agree with that. The details and specs are out there. If the OP asks after reading and trying to understand my thread on an axle swap, I'll send them a spreadsheet covering many variables I used in determining the specs for my axle swap.
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...arm-37248.html

It is well worth the effort learning about these axles.

Your presentation is nice.However, predicting fractions of an inch of ride height in this venue is not practical with the information given... too many variables.
The spent "effort learning about these axles" has taught me that much.
Spreadsheets are great...nothing like a good night's sleep to clear the mind.

[Harvey]

Dexter still builds each axle to individual specs; they'll build a #9 axle in leading arm configuration w/brakes that'll work fine on your Scamp (see my post #19 on this thread - http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...a-55120-2.html ) & this thread - http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...ics-49911.html on my axle swap on my 1984 Scamp 13... I gained somewhere between 3-5" in height, & my grandson & I did the swap in less than an afternoon.

[jcham1970]

Hi guys, thanks again. I guess since I just got the frame out from under my egg this evening, and discovered its rusted through, I am going to build a new frame. Was thinking I didn't need to till I saw what it looked like all exposed! So, I might as well go with a trailing arm. I am considering the flexride because of the adjustability, but Roy, I would love to see what specs you mentioned. Thanks again,

Jeremy

[Eddie Longest]

Jeremy
Do you have any pictures of the rust thru? Good to know where to look.
Eddie

[jcham1970]

Hi Eddie, here is a picture of the rusted hole. It's at the back of the frame where the corner of the street side plywood rested. The other side is pretty rusted too, in fact most of the rear frame where the plywood floor contacted it. There also wasn't much holding the shell to the plywood, most of the fiberglass was free from around the floor. Also here is a picture a crack in the frame rail at the point where it bends toward the tongue.