Sway control

[John Baker]

I have a Boler 17 and towing with a ford Ranger 4x4. I do have sway sometimes and considering putting sway control on. Has anyone had any experience with the electronic type like Hayes Sway Master any others. Or is the friction type just as good and a lot cheaper.

[sokhapkin]

I would remove the source of the sway rather than apply a band aid. Try to lower hitch ball for 1" if the trailer currently tows level. If the trailer is already slightly nose down, then you need to move load from back to front.

[WizWid]

Don't just mask it. Fix it!
Have you weighed the trailer?

[ShelbyM]

The friction sway controllers are simple and inexpensive. I don't think there is any downside to using one. I know nothing of the electronic ones.

[Jon in AZ]

Originally Posted by ShelbyM

The friction sway controllers are simple and inexpensive. I don't think there is any downside to using one. I know nothing of the electronic ones.

That is true. What others are saying, and I concur, is that sway under normal driving conditions is an indication something is wrong. Possibilities include: (1) excessive speed, (2) improper loading, (3) improper hitching, (4) mechanical issues with axle/suspension/frame/brakes/tires, or (5) poor trailer design (unlikely in a production model, but possible if modifications have been made). You should investigate and correct the cause of the sway before adding the anti-sway device.

Sway bars are meant to be an auxiliary safety device for an unusual situation, such as a sudden gust of wind or an emergency avoidance maneuver, not a means to correct an unstable rig in normal conditions.

[John Baker]

Normally I have no sway and as mentioned in last response I am more concerned in adding an additional amount of safety for those unforeseen circumstances as mentioned previously. I thank all for some excellent tips and ideas.

[Carl V]

I agree, stabilize the trailer as much as possible with careful loading and load distribution, then add a sway control as a safety measure in case of emergency hard maneuvering.

You may not need a weight distribution hitch with the Ranger, but if you do, you can also look into kits that combine weight distribution and sway control, such as Equal-i-zer, Husky Centerline, Reese Steadi-Flex, etc.

[Jon in AZ]

Originally Posted by John Baker

Normally I have no sway and as mentioned in last response I am more concerned in adding an additional amount of safety for those unforeseen circumstances as mentioned previously. I thank all for some excellent tips and ideas.

Good to hear. I think some of us were concerned because you said "I do have sway sometimes…" In four years I have yet to experience sway except once, and then there was definitely something wrong (with my loading, in that case, and it was corrected quickly!).

[van de Kamper]

My sway symptom: above 90 km/h 55 mph and I let my foot off the gas at the start of a descent and the loaded 13' Boler starts to sway behind my 2001 Blazer ZR2 till I get below 90 km/h.

Sway controller?
Redistribute weight in trailer putting all weight on the floor?

I currently place two 10'x10' pop up shelters on the front bed (25 kg / 55 lbs each) and place all the totes with supplies on the floor.

[Borrego Dave]

Originally Posted by van de Kamper

My sway symptom: above 90 km/h 55 mph and I let my foot off the gas at the start of a descent and the loaded 13' Boler starts to sway behind my 2001 Blazer ZR2 till I get below 90 km/h.
Sway controller?
Redistribute weight in trailer putting all weight on the floor?
I currently place two 10'x10' pop up shelters on the front bed (25 kg / 55 lbs each) and place all the totes with supplies on the floor.

What you're describing is a loading distribution problem that needs to be addressed. A sway controller is an add on for emergency moves/incidences that may come up. When you're loaded and hitched up for travel is your TT level with the tug or a bit tongue down? If so, you may want to weigh it for the tongue weight, you may be to light. Over loading to one side could also be a factor but I doubt that's what's causing your sway. BTW, do you travel with bikes or such on a rear rack?

[van de Kamper]

Originally Posted by Borrego Dave

What you're describing is a loading distribution problem that needs to be addressed. A sway controller is an add on for emergency moves/incidences that may come up. When you're loaded and hitched up for travel is your TT level with the tug or a bit tongue down? If so, you may want to weigh it for the tongue weight, you may be to light. Over loading to one side could also be a factor but I doubt that's what's causing your sway. BTW, do you travel with bikes or such on a rear rack?

Thanks for responding Dave.





It looks perfectly level in these pix. A small scooter and light bike trailer frame is all that's on the rear bike rack. I'm pretty sure the tongue weight is over 100 lbs.

I need to get the electric brakes operating as a slight touch on the brake controller would surely straighten things out immediately. In your opinion this is not a speed issue?

[madjack]

...loading issue would be my diagnoses...try to get tongue weight nearer to 200#s...and yes, get those brakes working!!!!!!
madjack

[Borrego Dave]

Originally Posted by van de Kamper

Thanks for responding Dave.

Attachment 104043
Attachment 104044
Attachment 104045

It looks perfectly level in these pix. A small scooter and light bike trailer frame is all that's on the rear bike rack. I'm pretty sure the tongue weight is over 100 lbs.
I need to get the electric brakes operating as a slight touch on the brake controller would surely straighten things out immediately. In your opinion this is not a speed issue?

Nope, not a speed issue at all. Your tongue weight is to light. What you have on the back of the TT is the problem. There are many posts of sway problems here because of just one bike on the rear rack. On the other hand, there are many members that carry bikes or have a storage box on the rear and have no problems, BUT, I would bet that their TTs are heavier on the tongue from the factory than yours. Not saying that it can't be done but many have had sway problems by adding as little as a 30# bike to the rear.
From looking at your pics, try a trip with nothing extra on the rear and every thing else the same to see if that eliminates your sway. Have you ever weighed the tongue loaded like that? It may very well be an internal load shift to fix it.
FWIW, do get the brakes working, not to compensate the rear TT load but to save your tugs brakes and overall towing ease.

[Jon in AZ]

I agree, it does sound like a weight distribution/low tongue weight problem. However I am surprised. We have carried as many as 3 bicycles on the back of our Scamp 13 with no sway to 65 mph. We carry a full LP tank and small battery on the tongue, a 10x10 canopy and four chairs on the front bench, and a large ice chest and 5 gallons of water on the floor forward of the axle. Canned goods and tools ride in the front bench compartments. Only lightweight stuff in the dinette area and no water in the tank.

Do load yours as normal and weigh the trailer and tongue.

I can think of a couple of additional possibilities to rule out... First, what tires are you running and what pressure? In particular, are they ST tires running at or near the maximum sidewall pressure? Second, what is the condition of your axle? Any idea when it was last replaced? A worn out axle can develop alignment issues that may affect tracking.

[van de Kamper]

Originally Posted by Jon in AZ

I agree, it does sound like a weight distribution/low tongue weight problem. However I am surprised. We have carried as many as 3 bicycles on the back of our Scamp 13 with no sway to 65 mph. We carry a full LP tank and small battery on the tongue, a 10x10 canopy and four chairs on the front bench, and a large ice chest and 5 gallons of water on the floor forward of the axle. Canned goods and tools ride in the front bench compartments. Only lightweight stuff in the dinette area and no water in the tank.



Do load yours as normal and weigh the trailer and tongue.



I can think of a couple of additional possibilities to rule out... First, what tires are you running and what pressure? In particular, are they ST tires running at or near the maximum sidewall pressure? Second, what is the condition of your axle? Any idea when it was last replaced? A worn out axle can develop alignment issues that may affect tracking.

Thanks all! Recall that the issue only arises when decelerating, not when cruising.

I will weigh the tongue after loading in the regular way. I anticipate I'll need to move my totes around. The weight on the trailer bike rack is minimal.

Tires are 14" Goodride ST's with normal psi. As for the axle, there's a 2" lift installed and it has electric brakes.

[John Perry]

Originally Posted by John Baker

I have a Boler 17 and towing with a ford Ranger 4x4. I do have sway sometimes and considering putting sway control on. Has anyone had any experience with the electronic type like Hayes Sway Master any others. Or is the friction type just as good and a lot cheaper.

IF you NEED a sway control during normal towing conditions you have a dangerous problem you need to remedy.
A sway control only hides the problem!!
I have been towing one thing or another for close to 50 years and have never required a sway control.

I very seldom chime in but this is a problem that may cause you and your family grievous injury.

John

[floyd]

Originally Posted by John Perry

IF you NEED a sway control during normal towing conditions you have a dangerous problem you need to remedy.
A sway control only hides the problem!!
I have been towing one thing or another for close to 50 years and have never required a sway control.

I very seldom chime in but this is a problem that may cause you and your family grievous injury.

John

I take issue mainly with your second sentence...

While it should be applied only after proper conventions have been observed, a friction sway control is a very useful tool and a demonstrable improvement to a proper towing set up.

It would do a poor job of hiding a sway problem anyway since effectively "hiding" a problem would be de facto solving it.

[Civilguy]

Charlie & Renée,

There are a couple of good videos posted on this site that dramatically illustrate the effect of weight distribution on model tow and trailer combos. There is one on this thread:

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...way-76462.html

One very knowledgeable and experienced member had difficulties with a small (Compact) trailer after he added better stabilizer jacks on the rear, perhaps adding some 25 lbs additional.

Bikes can sway or bounce on the rack, and the connection between the rack and the trailer may have some additional play. This can amplify the impact that the bikes moving will have on the trailer.

I suggest reviewing some of the posts here and elsewhere online regarding this subject, checking if the bikes can bounce, and weighing the tongue. From there, you will have to make some decisions and try some changes.

I suggest initially focusing on the loading as you may be able to get everything under control just by doing that.

And, final counsel, don't ever decelerate! (OK, just kidding!)

[Glenn Baglo]

Originally Posted by Civilguy

And, final counsel, don't ever decelerate! (OK, just kidding!)

Towing my tent trailer with a Subaru wagon on a gravel road, I took a corner at speed. Noticed that the tent trailer was coming up alongside. If I had decelerated, it would have hit me on the front driver-side. Instead, I stepped on the gas and the front-wheel drive pulled vehicle and trailer into line. So, sometimes it's all kidding aside.

[John Perry]

Originally Posted by floyd

I take issue mainly with your second sentence...

While it should be applied only after proper conventions have been observed, a friction sway control is a very useful tool and a demonstrable improvement to a proper towing set up.

It would do a poor job of hiding a sway problem anyway since effectively "hiding" a problem would be de facto solving it.

HIDING does not solve a dangerous underlying problem which could have catastrophic results!!

I have towed 6 horse trailer across country, stock trailers, boat trailers, 5th wheel trailers Scamps, Burros, Casitas and various trailers of all sizes,
I cannot begin to imagine how many miles I have towed in my many years on this earth.
The reason I have become inactive and just check in once in awhile is well meaning but wrong advice.

IF you use a away bar to eliminate a sway under normal driving conditions, even slowing down, could be a deadly mistake.
I saw to many needless trailer accidents while working as a Nevada Sheriff's Deputy and Highway Patrolman.

The stinger I use to tow my UTV trailer has a second small ball on it for a sway control which I used about 5 years ago when I visited Yellowstone and all of the other National parks in that area of the country.
As I remember the trip was a little over 6000 miles.
I never could tell the difference with the sway control which I used only for the first half of the trip.
IF you load your trailer properly, tires are inflated properly and your trailer is in good mechanical condition, in my many years and miles of towing experience, you do not NEED a sway control.

John