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03-26-2014, 08:42 PM
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#1
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Member
Trailer: Trillium Jubilee
Posts: 76
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Tekonsha RF Brake Controller
We need to install a brake controller in our new tug, and there is not a lot of real estate on the dash to bolt it on to, so we are considering a Tekonsha Prodigy RF, which communicates with the brakes with a wireless unit bolted to the trailer frame. If you look up Tekonsha Prodigy RF Part 90250, you can see the video of how this works.
Has anybody installed one of these and if so, how do you like it?
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03-27-2014, 06:58 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Name: Frank
Trailer: 2012 ParkLiner #006
New York
Posts: 2,273
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What's your tug? I can generally find a place to mount any brake controller in my vehicles. We mounted our regular Tekonsha over on the very left side, actually on the pull-out fuse box cover in out 2013 Escape. I'm not much of a fan of wireless stuff when it comes to brakes!
Good luck!
Frank
__________________
2012 ParkLiner #006
2013 4wd 4 door F150 3.5L Ecoboost with 9200# tow package
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03-27-2014, 07:17 AM
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#3
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Commercial Member
Name: Charlie Y
Trailer: Escape 21 - Felicity
Oregon
Posts: 1,592
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I'm with frank, I've had too much wireless experience to trust it more than a wired connection where safety is paramount. With my wired Tekonsha it immediately lets me know if there is a connection problem to the trailer.
Charlie Y
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03-27-2014, 10:49 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Trailer: Burro 17 ft Widebody
Posts: 868
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I've had the Tek. RF controller on our setup for more than a year now, including a cross-country trip. After the initial pairing (using our old tug as the third vehicle for set-up purposes) the unit has worked flawlessly.
It so happens that I was able to make a simple mount for the remote in our particular vehicle, so nothing was modified or permanently added to our dash or interior. Probably the main reason for installing it.
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03-27-2014, 11:34 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1972 Boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
Posts: 5,141
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Pat,
I had a look at the video on the unit. You are still going to want access to the small control box to apply the trailer brakes manually. Very helpful in trailer sway or other emergency situations. I don't see any advantage to this unit in your situation.
Many standard control units can be simply plugged in when needed. So they don't take up real estate when you are not using them.
You might be better off making a simple mount to hold a controller like Per describes for your situation. You're a non smoker, is there something you can mod to fit your ashtray?
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03-27-2014, 01:19 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2002 19 ft Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel
Posts: 3,641
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Me, I just don't trust wireless. I want real wires from the controller to the brakes.
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03-27-2014, 04:07 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Name: Steve
Trailer: Scamp 13
California
Posts: 1,889
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I have used this Rf controller on my trailer and tug for the last 8 trips or so. A little over a year now. It has worked flawlessly. I have a choice of 3 tugs to use if I wish and for me was the right way to go. If the wireless fails the brake unit defalts to its last settings so the brakes dont stop working. My 13 foot trailer isnt using a brake controler hard like a much larger trailer would. For my situation I would purchase it again if need be.
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03-27-2014, 09:57 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Name: Russ
Trailer: Scamp 16' side dinette, Airstream Safari 19'
California
Posts: 588
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I bought the RF controller because I had to go to another city to pick op our Scamp with a tow vehicle that may not be our ultimate choice. Once at the Scamp's location I mounted the controller on the Scamp's tongue with my cordless drill and plugged it into the Jeep. It took a few trial stops to get the brake sensitivity set and I was on my way. The controller has worked flawlessly for 3 years with no issues. Even if left unplugged from the cigarette lighter plug the system remembers a setting that will stop the rig. It is an excellent and reliable product, but expensive compared to hard wired controllers. if you plan to change tugs often it would be the controller of choice. I have never had any issues with interference or communication problems.
Russ
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03-27-2014, 10:28 PM
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#9
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Member
Trailer: Trillium Jubilee
Posts: 76
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We dont plan on changing cars but there is a lot of stuff on the dash including driver knee airbag so there is just not a lot of p,aces to safely drill into, thus the wireless appeal. Santa fe xl.
Sent from my GT-P5113 using Fiberglass RV mobile app
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03-28-2014, 06:43 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Name: Conrad
Trailer: Bigfoot 3000 & Barth "slide-in" truck camper
Connecticut
Posts: 958
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Wireless would scare the crap out of me.
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03-28-2014, 07:30 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Name: Dave W
Trailer: Escape 19 and Escape 15B
Alberta
Posts: 523
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The Prodigy RF works great and is quite reliable. Just use a strip of velcro and you can mount the hand held controller to your dash at any convenient location. Concerns regarding the wireless failing and you losing your trailer brakes are groundless. The trailer brakes work automatically when you brake your tow vehicle, without the use of any wireless communication. Wireless operation is only used for manual operation of your brakes and for assigning the controller settings.
__________________
Dave W - 2013 Escape 19', 2013 Escape 15B and 2011 Toyota FJ Cruiser
"You've got to be very careful if you don't know where you are going, because you might not get there." - Yogi Berra
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03-28-2014, 07:35 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1972 Boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
Posts: 5,141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pat Thomson
there is a lot of stuff on the dash including driver knee airbag so there is just not a lot of places to safely drill into, ... Santa fe xl.
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Ooh, that sounds tough.
I did a quick search this AM and found one suggestion of somewhere on the LS of the steering wheel.
Is your dash like the one from a 2013 pictured below? If so, what is in the space in front of the shift lever?
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04-01-2014, 09:17 PM
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#13
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Member
Trailer: Trillium Jubilee
Posts: 76
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 Thanks for everybody's comments. Nothing like collective wisdom. Yes, that's pretty much our dash. In front of the knob is a well with a couple of 12 volt outlets and a usb port or two. If you try to drill in there, you are going into the AC controls.
There is juice to the brakes at all times with the RF unit - there is a box mounted on the trailer tongue that has all the power control and brains in it - the handheld allows for the initial fine-tuning and shows the connection, but the tongue box does all the work whether the handheld is plugged in or not. Looks like a good product - I don't think Tekonsha would sell it if it was crap, because the liability would be too high - have a look at the video which Roy has kindly posted.
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04-25-2014, 03:22 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Name: Sergey
Trailer: 2014 Scamp 16 layout 4, 2018 Winnebago Revel 4x4
SW Florida
Posts: 856
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I have InSIGHT controller in my TV. I even do not want think about a different controller design. Separate base, display and control units is the only right way to go.
__________________
Sergey
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04-25-2014, 04:18 PM
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#16
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Moderator
Name: RogerDat
Trailer: 2010 Scamp 16
Michigan
Posts: 3,744
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That Insight Flex Mount is at a nice price point. Comparable to other proportional controllers.
I would not be concerned about the RF unit failing. The inertia sensor is on the trailer so it seems like they are not counting on RF to do anything but store and send the settings when you start or do manual brake activation. I guess I figure anything can fail, would test the same way I would wired unit or lights. Does this work as I start out? Ok then off we go.
Now the $300+ price tag that is a non starter for me. Nearly twice the price that one can purchase a very good wired system. If my TV was critically tight on room or this lotto ticket thing I got going works out then maybe...
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05-10-2014, 09:54 PM
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#17
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Member
Trailer: Trillium Jubilee
Posts: 76
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Well, we got the Tekonsha RF installed on the trailer and brought it back from Welland today. It was a bit of a PITA to get set up and paired with the controller, and it does have to be installed exactly as per the video, on the frame. But once we got the hand held talking to the unit, it was all good - got the settings right in a decommissioned Canadian Tire parking lot, and it was all smooth sailing back to the city. Mad props to Denis at Seaway RV! for getting us set up, and for caulking the belly band - for the first time, no must smell from small leaks over the winter.
We are very happy with the new car as a tug. The side views on the Santa Fe XL are big enough so that no tow mirror need be added. It's all good. See you at eggfest and bolerama!
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05-11-2014, 08:08 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
Name: Nate
Trailer: 1981 Casita 13. TV: 2011 Honda CR-V
Wisconsin
Posts: 118
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pat Thomson
Well, we got the Tekonsha RF installed on the trailer and brought it back from Welland today. It was a bit of a PITA to get set up and paired with the controller, and it does have to be installed exactly as per the video, on the frame. But once we got the hand held talking to the unit, it was all good - got the settings right in a decommissioned Canadian Tire parking lot, and it was all smooth sailing back to the city. Mad props to Denis at Seaway RV! for getting us set up, and for caulking the belly band - for the first time, no must smell from small leaks over the winter.
We are very happy with the new car as a tug. The side views on the Santa Fe XL are big enough so that no tow mirror need be added. It's all good. See you at eggfest and bolerama!
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Thanks for the update, Pat! I'm considering using the same controller on our CR-V. It has no built in charging or brake wires, so I'm thinking if I use this controller (and power it from the trailer battery), I can avoid having to run/route wires. So good to hear the feedback!
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05-11-2014, 12:21 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Name: Russ
Trailer: Scamp 16' side dinette, Airstream Safari 19'
California
Posts: 588
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nate R
Thanks for the update, Pat! I'm considering using the same controller on our CR-V. It has no built in charging or brake wires, so I'm thinking if I use this controller (and power it from the trailer battery), I can avoid having to run/route wires. So good to hear the feedback!
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Hey Nate,
You could power it from the trailer, but I would consider going to the trouble of running a dedicated charge line from your CR-V. It is not that tough to do. If you don't feel comfortable doing it yourself you could sub out the work. A relay switched from your ignition run tap could be used to energize the charge line. Use wire that you think is too large and go up one size to get as many volts way back to your battery as you can. Use a fuse or breaker installed near the tug battery to protect the wire.
Russ
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