Thinking about towing with vintage wagon.

[mary and bob]

I have a Y block Ford engine in my barn, a 312. I think I have a 3 speed overdrive trans too.

[Davie B]

Originally Posted by DeBreez

Nice Ford! I had a 49 Tudor Sedan, V8 flathead, 3-on-the-tree with overdrive. It was my grandmother's car at one time. It had the old 6V positive ground system. Never used it to tow anything, although it had a trailer hitch installed by the original owner.

I think the brake upgrade is a great idea, also fresh springs and other running gear. Is it an automatic? Not sure about the reliability of the old 2-speed autos, but the manual trannies are indestructable.

These old cars are body-on-frame, just like a pickup truck, so they have the structural integrity, assuming rust etc. hasn't taken a toll.

My 49 had manual steering, and the old kingpin front-end. Yours may be a more modern design, but cranking that wheel would build your arm muscles.

I recommend seatbelts and headrests, if you don't have them. Whiplash injuries are bad.

Yes. It's an automatic. I think I heard someone call it a "slush-o-matic".

[Davie B]

Originally Posted by ZachO

People who have more experience with true vintage vehicles and not just 70s & 80s trucks like me would know better, but the "sitting for 20 years" thing is a concern.



Without oil circulating around the engine, a lot of seals will dry out, shrink and become brittle. That means once oil is circulating again finally, it's going to have a lot of escape routes...



I'm sure you'll take it all into account. I would just say that before you start planning any trip and getting too excited, get that thing running and driving around town and see how it does. No matter what, it looks like it's worth the effort.

Yeah - I expect to be replacing a lot of rubber and cork.

[real550A]

I fully plan to use a '57 Chevy wagon as a tow vehicle, about 50/50% of the time, along with the Tacoma. I converted to a dual master cylinder, but the drum brakes are fully capable of towing/stopping a 1200 lb. trailer.
We used to flat tow our '57 Chev racecars behind these wagons all the time, with no problems, or fears. Proper setup is a must.

[BARNEYCONE]

Larger tires & wheels would make her roll better,less rolling drag. Trailer brakes wolud make her stop more gooder!! Drain & flush trans & third member[rear end] refill with mobile one syn. Good stuff!! Flush rad & replace t-stat,160 or 180 degrees,engine cooling. I am prep'in '65 289 4sp.mustang will add 4 barrel carb. Power brakes. Riding on 16" bullittwheels. Hitch is custom,for wd set-up. Good luck and happy wrenching. Barney cone ii

[mary and bob]

As for the "sitting for 20 years", several years ago I got my son's 62 Fairlane that he drove in high school, out of the barn after 20 years to use it in a movie. I would run it a little every year, but it hadn't been on the road in all that time. Had to do a few minor repairs and off I went. It ran good but handled terrible on the old bias ply tires. Leaked fluids everywhere. Luckily the movie was being filmed about 10 miles away so I didn't have to drive it far. After 9 days on the movie set it went back in the barn. Oldest vintage vehicle that I use for towing is a 76 pickup.

[BARNEYCONE]

Davie b, while your at it,check clutch for slipage,steering box & linkage for lube & any loose play. Bbc ii

[Gerry Kiernan]

If the old Ford is in good condition, and mechanically sound, there is no reason it couldn't tow a trailer. Brakes for the trailer would be a good idea. The old Ford certainly has the weight factor going for it.

[stude]

Originally Posted by Davie B

I've been given a 1954 Ford station wagon and am thinking of using it as a tug for my LiteHouse. I've found a company that will build a hitch for it. I'm worried about the brakes in the wagon. They will be rebuilt before I try to tow but I worry that they won't be powerful enough to handle the added weight of the trailer. Thoughts?


Sent from my iPad using Fiberglass RV

Studebaker has the same propblem so they brought out a product called the Turner Brake system which is a power brake assembly that can be mounted to the frame under the drivers seat, use this on cars until around 1963 Trucks all opted for the Turner Brake System as Studebaker Trucks never got PB or PDB.
Hope this helps.
Stude

[Davie B]

Originally Posted by BARNEYCONE

Larger tires & wheels would make her roll better,less rolling drag. Trailer brakes wolud make her stop more gooder!! Drain & flush trans & third member[rear end] refill with mobile one syn. Good stuff!! Flush rad & replace t-stat,160 or 180 degrees,engine cooling. I am prep'in '65 289 4sp.mustang will add 4 barrel carb. Power brakes. Riding on 16" bullittwheels. Hitch is custom,for wd set-up. Good luck and happy wrenching. Barney cone ii

I've thought a lot about putting larger wheels on the trailer. Because of the design of the wheel wells, I'd have to figure out a way to lift the trailer off the axel; perhaps welding spacers between the frame and axel.

[Davie B]

Originally Posted by stude

Studebaker has the same propblem so they brought out a product called the Turner Brake system which is a power brake assembly that can be mounted to the frame under the drivers seat, use this on cars until around 1963 Trucks all opted for the Turner Brake System as Studebaker Trucks never got PB or PDB.

Hope this helps.

Stude

My first "car" was a Studebaker mail truck. Parts were very difficult to find but it was an awesome ride.

[BARNEYCONE]

My cassie has been raised 8" to get 35 gal. Of water & 30 gal. Of waste tanks on her under-belly,lower c.g.!! The axle is sq. Tube,as is chassis. Cut them a part and added vertical 3" steel channels x 16" long on each side of axle. Running cooper 285/75 x 17" lt tires on gt mustang bullitt wheels.

[mary and bob]

Stude; would that be a remote vacuum booster? My '43 International military model truck has the master cylinder under the driver side floorboard and the vacuum booster on the right frame rail. I think it is a Bendix unit.

[Joe Romas]

My first car was a 1954 Ford Victoria (two door hardtop).
Original brakes were totally inadequate and mine were not power brakes. Very easy to get brake fade when the fluid overheated.

No power steering so your arms will get built up.

But worse is the original V8 engines, 235 cu. inch as I recall, had a casting defect where the casting sand from the mold remained around number eight cylinder causing that cylinder to overheat causing the piston to crack.

The straight six was better for reliability.

So if you were to load down that old girl even with a light camper you might put a nail in the casket.
the 272 introduced in 1955 or the 292 in 1956 or even better the later 312 mentioned above that I think was in the Mercury.

An engine swap would be easily spotted by a purist because the later ones had a bigger timing chain and cover thatwould not allow the spacer between the water pump pulley and fan wouldn't fit.

Your picture brings back memory of my high school years.

Joe