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Old 03-01-2023, 07:34 PM   #21
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Name: Jim
Trailer: Escape 17B (previous 16' Scamp)
Washington (dry side)
Posts: 24
This is what I have found to solve the tailgate interference problem on my Scamp 16. https://jack-e-up.com/product/univer...ck-e-up-black/
I use this with a side wind tongue jack. Just unbolt jack from tongue, bolt this to tongue and then the jack to the included plate. Then after you have hooked up to tv you just give the tongue jack a slight turn, remove and store until unhitched.
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Old 03-01-2023, 10:22 PM   #22
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Name: zack
Trailer: scamp 13
California
Posts: 356
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon in AZ View Post
A longer drawbar does not make it any more maneuverable in normal backing. The tightest backing turn you can make (in a single move) is determined by the turning radius of the tow vehicle. Essentially you can’t turn any sharper when backing than you can going forward because you have to follow it back.

You can, of course, negotiate a tighter turn in close quarters by backing into a jackknife, pulling forward, and repeating several times. A longer drawbar can help with that because it will turn slightly sharper due to the leverage, and the added separation means you might be able to get into a tighter jackknife without making contact. That situation is so rare and the advantages so slight, it isn’t worth the many disadvantages of a longer drawbar.
Thanks Jon. Interesting. I think I am learning a lot here.
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Old 03-02-2023, 03:09 AM   #23
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Trailer: 2008 Casita 17' SD
Washington
Posts: 2,057
Registry
I couldn't open my tailgate either due to the short trailer tongue. which is why I installed a "Jack-E-Up" removable tongue jack. With this thing I can just do a third of a twist and remove the jack after it is on the tow ball. After I set the trailer on the tow ball, I simply give the jack a third of a turn and remove it completly and stow it in the back of the tow. No tailgate interference.

https://littlehousecustoms.com/store.html#rung

JACK-E-UP
NEW IMPROVED CASITA VERSION AVAILABLE ONLY FROM LHC
This amazing new jack aid is a really cool solution to those of you with late model tow vehicles. Yep, the tail gate hits the tongue jack and that's a problem. You could use a longer stinger as long as you have 30% of your towing capacity to give up, but for the rest of us, this solves the problem. After you spend 5 minutes installing this, you simply hitch up, raise your jack a couple of turns off the ground, turn your jack 1/3 of a turn by hand and pull it out! Stow it in the back of your truck. (remember you can lay your tail gate down now!)

Or stow it in the now available Jack-E-Hand. The Hand attaches to your coupler under the Jack-E-Up and gives you a convenient place to stow your jack. It includes a locking pin as well and as an added bonus; the Hand doubles as a flag pole holder for many brands of telescoping flag poles. Inside diameter of the hand is 2 1/16.

We've tested this product and really like the safety and ease of use. We've added a bottom stabilizer bracket that bolts to the existing bracket to take much of the play out of your factory jack. This improvement really makes it stable.

For a better understanding of how it works, visit jack-e-up.com and watch the three minute video.

This is NOT a solution for those with electric jacks. For those of you with the Barker or other brands of electric jack, see perfectcasita.com for their Jack Relocation Bracket.

Jack-E-UP $72.95 Add to Cart
Jack-E-Hand $54.95 Add to Cart
BUY THE PAIR AND SAVE! $122.95 Add to Cart

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Old 03-06-2023, 10:19 PM   #24
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Name: Bob
Trailer: Casita
Missouri
Posts: 21
Longer Drawbar

Greetings, all! New to Casita's, but not new to towing. I've been towing Airstream trailers for over 40 years and have always used a "long" drawbar without ill effect. On my new to me Casita SD and Chevrolet Colorado truck, In a very short time, I've found that my longer drawbar, just like the one the OP included a photo in one of his posts, actually helps with porpoising or hop, in addition to allowing me to open my trucks tailgate without fear of hitting something. A shorter drawbar actually made for a choppy ride. Each TV is different, so YMMV.

In point, for years (over 200k miles) I drove a Ford E350 V10 van towing a 34' Triple axle Airstream trailer that weighed almost 10000 pounds. I used an 18" long drawbar with 1200 lb spring bars as that combination let me access the items in the back of the van allowing the rear cargo doors to open. But, at one Airstream Rally, in a towing seminar, I was asked if the presenter could use my rig as an "example" of why you shouldn't use a long drawbar because of the "lever" principle. After weighing my tongue weight and "squat" using my 18" drawbar, the presenter then hitched up my trailer to my van, using a "standard" 8" drawbar so illustrate the difference. Guess what? Without the equalizer bars on either hitch, squat was less than 1/8" more with the 18" bar and the weight on the hitch itself was a bit more than an additional 27 pounds. BTW, the tongue weight of the trailer was over 900 pounds. And also, towing with the shorter drawbar had a HUGE adverse effect by moving the hitch point closer to the rear axle of the van, and making for a very rough ride. It was determined by the engineers in attendance that a short rear overhang can actually benefit from the longer drawbar length. By the way, the 1 ton van with the 18" drawbar was an amazing ride. Before that, I'd tried that long drawbar on my 3/4 ton 2500 Suburban and it would beat you to death. BUT, the Suburban already had a VERY long rear overhang compared to the E350 van. Went back to towing with a short drawbar on the Suburban and all was good. In the end, the guys putting on the towing seminar could only agree with the notion that a long drawbar wasn't inherently evil. On the shorter SUV's currently used to tow a short trailer like a Casita, Scamp etc, the longer bar might just be an eyeopener! One of the other posters go it right when he said go with it if its within your weight limits. I really enjoyed reading everyone's posts on this topic and I hope to not come off as a Know-it-all. Not my intent, just wanted to contribute! Tow on!!!
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Old 03-07-2023, 03:34 PM   #25
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Name: Jonathan
Trailer: ex-Casita, now Alto R series
Massachusetts
Posts: 256
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob in Missouri View Post
...at one Airstream Rally, in a towing seminar, I was asked if the presenter could use my rig as an "example" of why you shouldn't use a long drawbar because of the "lever" principle.
Mmmkay....... The longer lever action of the long drawbar, at the same downward load (tongue weight) created very little change in height at the fulcrum point. No surprise there. Two kids on one end of a see-saw does little to sink the support into the dirt.
Perryb67 pointed out that negligible rear axle load change in his thread contribution.
But the 'lever' lift at the front axle is conveniently not mentioned.

Also note that a concern of some posters in this thread with the increased length of the tow bar is the increased torque load on the receiver's frame mount points (pressing with more leverage on the rearward bolts, 'lifting' on the forward ones) possibly approaching the shear strength of the fasteners, and less concern regarding any change in a much lesser percentage in rear axle load.

I stand by my reasoning for maintaining the distance to the least amount practical.
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Old 03-25-2023, 09:40 PM   #26
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Name: zack
Trailer: scamp 13
California
Posts: 356
Excellent discussion here. Thanks Jon and Bob!
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Old 03-26-2023, 10:06 AM   #27
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Name: Lynn
Trailer: 2019 Escape 21C, NTU April 2022 (was 2013 Casita Spirit Deluxe 17)
Massachusetts
Posts: 668
Over on the Escape Owners Forum, there's a thread on the problem of allowing tailgates to clear the electric jacks. I had the problem when buying my Escape 21C, as my 2013 Ford Expedition XL liftgate would not clear the jack. The seller and I had to run out and get a longer shank for the E-2 Fastway WDH hitch. We ended up getting a 14" shank (not made by Fastway) to replace the standard 8" shank. It works fine, though when I first drove off I noticed more fore-aft pitching than with my Casita (standard shank, no WDH). The Escape is a good deal heavier than the Casita was, so that's a factor, too.

Now I don't notice the pitching. And the liftgate clears fine. EOF thread here:
https://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f...tml#post441012
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