Tow Vehicle Advice Needed for Novice

[wahlfamily]

Hi, I'm looking at used Highlanders to two my 17 ft Casita, both gas and a hybrid. But the two I'm looking at do not have a hitch. Is there anything special to know about getting the hitch and plug installed? Can I do a third party or should I go to the dealer I buy the used Highlander from?

The Highlanders I'm looking at are:


2017 Toyota Highlander Hybrid LE 4dr SUV AWD (3.5L 6cyl gas/electric hybrid CVT), and

Highlander LE V6 SUV AWD


Any other things I need to be concerned with if the Highlander did not come with a tow package?
Thanks so much!

[AlanKilian]

The towing capacity varies quite a bit depending on the EXACT model and year.

https://www.autopadre.com/towing-cap...ota-highlander

Which ones precisely are you asking about?

Personally, I added a hitch and electrical harness to my 2004 Honda CRV and later to my 2005 Volvo V70 Wagon and was able to tow my very light 13' Scamp no problems.

I had the dealer install the towing package for out 2021 Volvo XC40 because it then sets up things like sway-control and backup camera towbar path line.

So it might depend on which vehicle you are planning on buying.

Also, do you need a brake controller installed in the vehicle or is there one installed on your trailer?

Do you need to charge a battery in your trailer while you are towing?
Are you planning on running a DC refrigerator while you are towing?

Lots of people on this forum will be able to help you figure this out.

You'll be camping in style this summer hope!

[wahlfamily]

Originally Posted by AlanKilian

The towing capacity varies quite a bit depending on the EXACT model and year.

https://www.autopadre.com/towing-cap...ota-highlander

Which ones precisely are you asking about?

Personally, I added a hitch and electrical harness to my 2004 Honda CRV and later to my 2005 Volvo V70 Wagon and was able to tow my very light 13' Scamp no problems.

I had the dealer install the towing package for out 2021 Volvo XC40 because it then sets up things like sway-control and backup camera towbar path line.

So it might depend on which vehicle you are planning on buying.

Also, do you need a brake controller installed in the vehicle or is there one installed on your trailer?

Do you need to charge a battery in your trailer while you are towing?
Are you planning on running a DC refrigerator while you are towing?

Lots of people on this forum will be able to help you figure this out.

You'll be camping in style this summer hope!

Thanks for the quick and informative reply! The vehicles I'm looking at are:
2017 Toyota Highlander Hybrid LE 4dr SUV AWD (3.5L 6cyl gas/electric hybrid CVT), and

Highlander LE V6 SUV
I hadn't thought of the backup camera. Did you need anything else added? I've read about oil coolers for instance.


I don't need a brake controller - I already have one for my 2012 Touerag.
No plans on charging a battery or running a fridge on DC.
Thanks again!

[Jon in AZ]

I believe the hybrid is rated to tow 3500/350#, while the non-hybrid is rated 3500/350# (FWD) or 5000/500# (AWD). You didn't mention whether the second vehicle was AWD or FWD.

Casita recommends a minimum tow rating of 5000/500# for the 17'ers. Tongue weights typically north of 400# are the main reason for the higher recommendation. That means you should be looking for a non-hybrid AWD.

Pull up the owner's manual online for the exact year you are planning to purchase to determine if any optional equipment is required for the maximum 5000# rating. I think by 2017 all the mechanical upgrades were standard on AWD models (including HD cooling), but you'll want to verify that. Toyota does not provide 7-pin wiring, so you'll have to arrange that yourself, along with installation of the brake controller.

I think you may find a light duty weight distributing hitch helpful to better manage the relatively heavy tongue weight of a Casita 17.

[wahlfamily]

Originally Posted by Jon in AZ

I believe the hybrid is rated to tow 3500/350#, while the non-hybrid is rated 3500/350# (FWD) or 5000/500# (AWD). You didn't mention whether the second vehicle was AWD or FWD.

Casita recommends a minimum tow rating of 5000/500# for the 17'ers. Tongue weights typically north of 400# are the main reason for the higher recommendation. That means you should be looking at a non-hybrid AWD.

Pull up the owner's manual online for the exact year you are planning to purchase to determine if any optional equipment is required for the maximum 5000# rating. I think by 2017 all the mechanical upgrades were standard on AWD models, but you'll want to verify that.

It's an AWD with 5,000 rating. Thanks for the info on the 3,500 rating. I assumed since we don't really load up our Casita that I'd still make the 80% rule.
Thanks!

[Jon in AZ]

Originally Posted by wahlfamily

It's an AWD with 5,000 rating. Thanks for the info on the 3,500 rating. I assumed since we don't really load up our Casita that I'd still make the 80% rule.
Thanks!

You'll be fine on trailer weight- loaded Casitas run 3000# or a bit more- but you'll be well over the 350# tongue weight rating. Base dry tongue weight specs at 365# and loaded Casitas average around 425#. The issue with the hybrid is the extra weight of the hybrid components limits what you can carry on the hitch.

You can check out the trailer weight database here. It's a link to a downloadable spreadsheet managed by a forum member.
http://lakeshoreimages.com/spreadsheets/Weight.xlsx

[Jann Todd]

Originally Posted by wahlfamily

Thanks for the quick and informative reply! The vehicles I'm looking at are:
2017 Toyota Highlander Hybrid LE 4dr SUV AWD (3.5L 6cyl gas/electric hybrid CVT), and

Highlander LE V6 SUV
I hadn't thought of the backup camera. Did you need anything else added? I've read about oil coolers for instance.


I don't need a brake controller - I already have one for my 2012 Touerag.
No plans on charging a battery or running a fridge on DC.
Thanks again!

Our 4.3 Trail Blazer pulled our 17' but going over mountains it was slower and the engine got warmer than we wanted it to. You may want to try to pull the trailer with the vehicle before you buy it. If it isn't set up for towing it may not tow the weight. Check closely.

[Mike_L]

Different people take different perspectives on this issue. Some folks determine what they can possibly tow while others determine what they can comfortably tow. Initially I took the first perspective but now firmly support the second.
I suggest a tug with at least twice the capacity of the dry weight of your trailer. This helps to prevent overloading which often happens because people underestimate the weight of things they load.
I always use a weight distributing hitch for any trailer over 2k pounds as the ride is much more stable and provides better steering and braking.
I always use a brake controller regardless of the braking efficiency of the tug. Braking on the trailer axle(s) provides additional stopping power should you need it.
Likewise, I use a hitch with at least twice the capacity of what I intend to tow. I always install my own for peace of mind.

[Glenn Baglo]

Originally Posted by Mike_L

I always install my own for peace of mind.

I always hire a pro for the same reason.

[Mike_L]

Originally Posted by Glenn Baglo

I always hire a pro for the same reason.

I hear you Glenn, but finding the professional can be a challenge. Some times the shop does a good job, sometimes not. I've seen both.

[Darwin Maring]

Originally Posted by Mike_L

Different people take different perspectives on this issue. Some folks determine what they can possibly tow while others determine what they can comfortably tow. Initially I took the first perspective but now firmly support the second.
I suggest a tug with at least twice the capacity of the dry weight of your trailer. This helps to prevent overloading which often happens because people underestimate the weight of things they load.
I always use a weight distributing hitch for any trailer over 2k pounds as the ride is much more stable and provides better steering and braking.
I always use a brake controller regardless of the braking efficiency of the tug. Braking on the trailer axle(s) provides additional stopping power should you need it.
Likewise, I use a hitch with at least twice the capacity of what I intend to tow. I always install my own for peace of mind.

.

Mike is absolutely correct. You can go wrong with to little but not go wrong with something with more power and capacity.

[Civilguy]

Casita used to publish the dry tongue weight on a 17 deluxe as 365 lbs. though I can't find that on their website today. A published dry tongue weight is much different from a rated tongue weight capacity. I'm not clear what Casita rates the tongue weight capacity at, but there have been a few reports of failures in the front A-frame area. Their GVWR is 3,500 lbs. Casita currently says you can use a tow vehicle with a 3,500 lb. rating, but that could lead to disappointment.

What type of vehicle is best suited to towing a Casita?
Regardless of the type of vehicle we recommend a vehicle capable of towing at least 3500 lbs or more.
https://casitatraveltrailers.com/faqs/

Like most manufacturers, Casita's dry tongue weight is significantly lower than what most users report. The difference can include fluids (including propane), factory-installed options, and the cargo people bring along.

The real world trailer weights spreadsheet mentioned above included 38 measured and reported tongue weights ranging from 300 to 680 lbs. for the Casita 17's, with an average of just under 420 lbs. as of the last time I downloaded it in August of 2020.

Our Casita's tongue weight was typically 410 lbs. or so and we did not mount a generator or bicycles or anything extra on the front A-frame. We carried a pair of 11-lb. propane cylinders, which together weighed 48 lbs. when full, which is 26 lbs. less than 20-lb. cylinders would have. We did carry a fair amount of food in the front bath area as we basically used it as a pantry and storage closet. We also carried some gear over the axle and under the rear dinette behind the axle to help manage the weight distribution in the trailer.

Towing with a V6 2010 Audi Q5 rated at 440/4,400 lbs. tow capacities was a dream. I don't have any experience with the Highlander, but there are folks on the Escape trailer forum who tow a much heavier Escape 21 and speak highly of it there.

Unfortunately for us, we bought our third trailer third, (an old saying is to buy your third RV first). This reflects the fact that many new buyers quickly gravitate to larger units. So, having a more capable tow vehicle in the first place can sometimes amount to a significant savings.

In our case, we had bought a six-year-old Audi at a price well below market, but we still lost out a bit by selling it just two years after purchase when we subsequently bought a larger trailer and needed a more capable tow vehicle.

[Jann Todd]

Originally Posted by wahlfamily

Thanks for the quick and informative reply! The vehicles I'm looking at are:
2017 Toyota Highlander Hybrid LE 4dr SUV AWD (3.5L 6cyl gas/electric hybrid CVT), and

Highlander LE V6 SUV
I hadn't thought of the backup camera. Did you need anything else added? I've read about oil coolers for instance.


I don't need a brake controller - I already have one for my 2012 Touerag.
No plans on charging a battery or running a fridge on DC.
Thanks again!

Make sure brake controller is compatible for your vehicle. I thought any brake controller would work but when I bought mine there was a discussion of the vehicle and whether it worked for mine. I have mine put in professionally since some vehicles come pre-wired and some don't. They can tell real quick and how to do it. Newer vehicles electrical systems can be very touchy.

[Jon in AZ]

Originally Posted by Civilguy

Casita currently says you can use a tow vehicle with a 3,500 lb. rating, but that could lead to disappointment…

That’s interesting. I was going from private conversations with a couple of Casita buyers who were told by the sales person Casita recommends a tow vehicle with a minimum 5000/500# tow rating. It makes more sense given the tongue weight issue.

I have read a few accounts of people towing Casita 17D’s with 3500/350# rated vehicles. WDH was required to redistribute the excess tongue weight, and Casita will sell you one. It is marginal IMO, and I suspect you’ll find most quietly upgrade to a more capable vehicle when the time comes. It’s one thing to make do with a marginal vehicle because you already have it and quite another to deliberately choose a marginal vehicle when making a tow vehicle purchase.

I agree with the idea you need to look long-term when making a vehicle choice. With prices and availability what they are- and no end in sight- most people are looking at longer life cycles for vehicles. I also understand the long term view includes a lot of uncertainty about fuel availability and cost, which matters when your tow vehicle doubles as a daily driver.

[MTRCYCMAN]

There is a big difference in just being able to pull a trailer down the road and efficiently & safely towing a travel trailer or any trailer. You are trying to get by with the bare minimum tow vehicle. Thru experience I have found that there is no replacement for horsepower and tow capacity. My trailer is rated for a 1/2 ton pickup. I pull it with a 3/4 ton diesel powered pickup. I have never regretted the extra power and suspension. I would recommend stepping up to a a little larger vehicle with a V-8. Toyota, Honda, and Nissan all make a good SUV with the V8. There are also several American made SUVs with the V8. There are also a few small SUVs and pickups with a small diesel.

Have a Good One and Good Luck!

[Jann Todd]

Originally Posted by wahlfamily

Thanks for the quick and informative reply! The vehicles I'm looking at are:
2017 Toyota Highlander Hybrid LE 4dr SUV AWD (3.5L 6cyl gas/electric hybrid CVT), and

Highlander LE V6 SUV
I hadn't thought of the backup camera. Did you need anything else added? I've read about oil coolers for instance.


I don't need a brake controller - I already have one for my 2012 Touerag.
No plans on charging a battery or running a fridge on DC.
Thanks again!

If you don't plan to charge your battery how will you run anything? Do you have solar? If not then you will need to charge your battery to keep everything going. I agree with not using the 12V for the fridge. It kills your battery fast and it doesn't do the job for cooling.

[Montana Brad]

I would not tow a casita with a highlander. I purchased a honda pilot with 5000lb. tow package. As I looked further in it I do not think toeing a casita/bigfoot with the pilot is something I care to do. I would tow it with an f150 truck for example. If you do not have the finances to purchase the needed equipment is it worth putting your life on the line for towing your casita.

[bmecum]

[QUOTE=wahlfamily;836715]Hi, I'm looking at used Highlanders to two my 17 ft Casita, both gas and a hybrid. But the two I'm looking at do not have a hitch. Is there anything special to know about getting the hitch and plug installed? Can I do a third party or should I go to the dealer I buy the used Highlander from?

The Highlanders I'm looking at are:


2017 Toyota Highlander Hybrid LE 4dr SUV AWD (3.5L 6cyl gas/electric hybrid CVT), and

Highlander LE V6 SUV AWD


Any other things I need to be concerned with if the Highlander did not come with a tow package?
Thanks so much![/QUOTE


I towed a 17ft liberty with an 06 Highlander LE . I installed a factory hitch, and was able to find a four pin plug and play wiring harness. I did put a trailer brake controller on and a 7 pin plug ,and never had any problems towing the trailer with it. Went pretty much all over the country with it from the east coast to the west coast.although I would definitely put a load leveling hitch on it because of the front wheel drive.
I would also stay away from the hybrid.
Good luck

[Jann Todd]

Originally Posted by Montana Brad

I would not tow a casita with a highlander. I purchased a honda pilot with 5000lb. tow package. As I looked further in it I do not think toeing a casita/bigfoot with the pilot is something I care to do. I would tow it with an f150 truck for example. If you do not have the finances to purchase the needed equipment is it worth putting your life on the line for towing your casita.

I agree with you. Also you must have a brake controller for the brakes to work properly. Anything over 2,000 pounds must have brakes in most states. Casita's have brakes. A good controller is as much of a necessity as gasoline IMO. We towed without a controller and was so happy when we got one. Now I don't feel like the trailer is pushing me when we brake. Brake controller is good in situations where the trailer may sway and you need to get it under control without hitting the vehicle's brakes. For us safety supersedes money.

[Conrad S.]

I bought my used 2012 Highlander Limited with the tow package, and was surprised that it had no hitch. Went to a trailer dealer to get hitch and electrical connector installed. It was way cheaper than a Toyota dealer would charge, but the hitch is mounted below the bumper rather than bumper height as factory installs do. Not a problem as long as you choose the correct drop height for your ball mount. I would advise having the 7-pin connector or a dual 7 and 4- pin connector installed to give the maximum flexibility as to electrical capability.