Towing a casita with a one ton truck.

[Beachcamper]

Obviously this is overkill but I also tow a large fifth wheel which we fulltime in. I am considering a Casita to have as a second RV to go to places like smaller parks where getting a site for anything over 30’ is difficult.

So I am wondering if I need a sway control device? What about a WDH? Currently have a receiver on my hitch that is good for 750lbs (it’s for my kayak trailer). I have never towed a pull behind trailer other than a boat or kayak trailer. Please excuse my ignorance but can’t find any advice on towing a small fiberglass trailer with a one ton truck.

Truck is a long bed SRW diesel and weighs 8225 with a GVWR of 11,300 lbs

Thanks in advance,

Vivian

[floyd]

Originally Posted by Beachcamper

Obviously this is overkill but I also tow a large fifth wheel which we fulltime in. I am considering a Casita to have as a second RV to go to places like smaller parks where getting a site for anything over 30’ is difficult.

So I am wondering if I need a sway control device? What about a WDH? Currently have a receiver on my hitch that is good for 750lbs (it’s for my kayak trailer). I have never towed a pull behind trailer other than a boat or kayak trailer. Please excuse my ignorance but can’t find any advice on towing a small fiberglass trailer with a one ton truck.

Truck is a long bed SRW diesel and weighs 8225 with a GVWR of 11,300 lbs

Thanks in advance,

Vivian

As for the WDH ...(of course not)

You only need to find a site big enough for the truck!


So...and enjoy!

[Beachcamper]

Originally Posted by floyd

As for the WDH ...(of course not)

You only need to find a site big enough for the truck!


So...and enjoy!

Yes, I wish I had a smaller truck but….it’s what I got. No WDH good, one leas thing to buy. What about a sway bar?

[floyd]

Originally Posted by Beachcamper

Yes, I wish I had a smaller truck but….it’s what I got. No WDH good, one leas thing to buy. What about a sway bar?

A friction type sway bar is a good addition and cost less than $100.
It would not be necessary on a properly balanced trailer with proper tongue weight but it does add considerable comfort when towing,... so I vote yes on the sway bar as it is easy to buy and easy to use...

[Beachcamper]

Originally Posted by floyd

A friction type sway bar is a good addition and cost less than $100.
It would not be necessary on a properly balanced trailer with proper tongue weight but it does add considerable comfort when towing,... so I vote yes on the sway bar as it is easy to buy and easy to use...

Thank you so much Floyd, I will read up on these and how to use them.

[Jon MB]

Sway control is more crucial as the ratio of trailer weight to tow vehicle weight increases and/or as tow vehicle wheelbase decreases. Your long wheelbase truck will be much less susceptible to a "tail wagging the dog" effect from a Casita than with a shorter wheelbase tow truck like our Audi Q5.
For us? Definitely WDH and a friction sway oscillation damper with that comparatively 'big' Casita.
For a one ton capacity, long wheelbase truck and that same, but now comparatively 'small' Casita? I wouldn't bother. The $100 will buy 25 gallons of ULSD.

[jerrybob]

I would think neither is required. I tow our Casita with a 1/2 ton Ram set up to tow 11,600lbs. I do not use a sway controller or WD.....have towed our trailer all over in all conditions.....never felt the need for these devises. BTW.....my set up is overkill as well......I use the truck for towing a car trailer with tractors and carriages on it. Good luck...safe travels.

[floyd]

Originally Posted by jerrybob

I would think neither is required. I tow our Casita with a 1/2 ton Ram set up to tow 11,600lbs. I do not use a sway controller or WD.....have towed our trailer all over in all conditions.....never felt the need for these devises. BTW.....my set up is overkill as well......I use the truck for towing a car trailer with tractors and carriages on it. Good luck...safe travels.

Now spend the extra $60 and experience the improvement to your already properly balanced rig. While it is not "required", it is a nice improvement.


Just look at all the "Non-essential" things which make our new cars so comfy and convenient.
Heck... my truck has vector control, electronic sway control, electric power steering, etc yet I still use a friction sway device.
Often times "unnecessary" items can actually be improvements.... sometimes they are just "unnecessary"....like heated steering wheels.


My Scamp does not "require" brakes, but I bought them anyway, and even improved on them later with a better axle and bigger brakes along with far better than OEM tires, none of which was "necessary".
It is often those small improvements which add significantly to the overall enjoyment of our trailers.

[Raspy]

It's important to remember that the friction sway controller is not intended to stop all swaying. It is needed mostly to stop repetitive motion that can build into an uncontrolled oscillation that can lead to a crash. This only happens with unstable trailers. Having the trailer move around a bit back there is natural, not a problem and does not indicate instability. Trying to make the trailer rigid with the truck, is a problem and can actually set off a stability warning. Let the trailer respond a bit in cross-wind gusts or to passing big rigs. So what? It should come right back in line and settle down. If not, adjust the weight distribution, tire pressure, weight on the rear of the trailer, weight on top of the trailer, or the tire rating and pressure on the tow vehicle. If needed, possibly add a bit of friction. But don't try to eliminate all movement. Some activity is fine and actually better than a rigid connection. As an example, Anderson hitches have been known to set off stability warnings in F150s. When contacted, Anderson recommended switching off the stability control in the truck! A very poor answer! That, and other issues have prompted me to not recommend the Anderson system. But the friction units are fine, if needed. I just don't like the idea of using them to compensate for other problems like weight distribution or tire stiffness. Or to compensate for a problem that doesn't exist.

[floyd]

Originally Posted by Raspy

It's important to remember that the friction sway controller is not intended to stop all swaying. It is needed mostly to stop repetitive motion that can build into an uncontrolled oscillation that can lead to a crash. This only happens with unstable trailers. Having the trailer move around a bit back there is natural, not a problem and does not indicate instability. Trying to make the trailer rigid with the truck, is a problem and can actually set off a stability warning. Let the trailer respond a bit in cross-wind gusts or to passing big rigs. So what? It should come right back in line and settle down. If not, adjust the weight distribution, tire pressure, weight on the rear of the trailer, weight on top of the trailer, or the tire rating and pressure on the tow vehicle. If needed, possibly add a bit of friction. But don't try to eliminate all movement. Some activity is fine and actually better than a rigid connection. As an example, Anderson hitches have been known to set off stability warnings in F150s. When contacted, Anderson recommended switching off the stability control in the truck! A very poor answer! That, and other issues have prompted me to not recommend the Anderson system. But the friction units are fine, if needed. I just don't like the idea of using them to compensate for other problems like weight distribution or tire stiffness. Or to compensate for a problem that doesn't exist.

The friction anti-sway device shown above is not intended nor is it capable of "eliminating all movement". It provides only resistance... mechanically like a modulated brake but with an effect analogous to, but not akin to, a shock absorber crossbred with a Panhard bar.
As you say, they are not intended to compensate for problems(real or imagined) but rather to enhance the handling of an already proper set-up...which it does quite well.

[Raspy]

Originally Posted by floyd

The friction anti-sway device shown above is not intended nor is it capable of "eliminating all movement". It provides only resistance...

Just what I said. And as an example, to make a point, I mentioned it would be a bad idea to "try to make the trailer rigid with the truck", (by any method, not just with the shown friction device), because it would cause other stability problems. Some movement is fine, or desired. Repetitive motion that builds on itself is not. The friction unit adds enough friction to dampen repetitive motion. But repetitive motion indicates there is a problem somewhere with weight distribution, or other mentioned issues. Some movement is perfectly fine as it allows the trailer to move without taking the truck with it. And as mentioned, too much friction can set off the stability system if the truck moves with the trailer. The Anderson anti-sway friction is not adjustable as it relies on tongue weight and the coefficient of friction of the cone clutch to tighten up. This has been an issue with them as they can become very loud as they try to seize up. Anderson has replaced a bunch of them. Since Olivers tow so well, it is beyond me why so many owners seem to be obsessed with eliminating any trailer movement, as though it is a bad thing. The simple telescoping sway controller is an excellent piece. Simple readily available and cheap. Just don't use it to mask any real problems.

[ShelbyM]

JMO, but the $100 for an anti-sway bar is well spent if just for reducing the push from passing semis. Even if I were confident the trailer would always "come back" the wiggle is still a distraction. If and how the typical bar interfaces with modern stability systems would be an interesting investigation.

[Cotton]

Originally Posted by jerrybob

I would think neither is required. I tow our Casita with a 1/2 ton Ram set up to tow 11,600lbs. I do not use a sway controller or WD.....have towed our trailer all over in all conditions.....never felt the need for these devises. BTW.....my set up is overkill as well......I use the truck for towing a car trailer with tractors and carriages on it. Good luck...safe travels.

Good advice.

[Raspy]

Originally Posted by ShelbyM

JMO, but the $100 for an anti-sway bar is well spent if just for reducing the push from passing semis. Even if I were confident the trailer would always "come back" the wiggle is still a distraction. If and how the typical bar interfaces with modern stability systems would be an interesting investigation.

The push from a passing semi is not reduced. If using a sway bar, part of the push against the trailer is sent to the truck instead. The truck gets pushed itself, plus it gets pushed by the trailer. An Oliver being pushed out of line a few degrees for a second or two just means it will swing right back in line during the next second, and the truck is only affected by the wind against the truck. This does not cause instability or danger.

[jerrybob]

Originally Posted by floyd

Now spend the extra $60 and experience the improvement to your already properly balanced rig. While it is not "required", it is a nice improvement.


Just look at all the "Non-essential" things which make our new cars so comfy and convenient.
Heck... my truck has vector control, electronic sway control, electric power steering, etc yet I still use a friction sway device.
Often times "unnecessary" items can actually be improvements.... sometimes they are just "unnecessary"....like heated steering wheels.


My Scamp does not "require" brakes, but I bought them anyway, and even improved on them later with a better axle and bigger brakes along with far better than OEM tires, none of which was "necessary".
It is often those small improvements which add significantly to the overall enjoyment of our trailers.

No thank you. I've used both devices on other vehicles when needed.....my current truck does not need them. BTW....all that new stuff they put on modern vehicles......I don't need either.....just more stuff to go wrong and costly. I did hear that Ford came out with a new heated bumper.....comes in handy when they break down in winter and you need to push them. Enjoy your trailer......I will do the same.

[floyd]

Originally Posted by ShelbyM

JMO, but the $100 for an anti-sway bar is well spent if just for reducing the push from passing semis. Even if I were confident the trailer would always "come back" the wiggle is still a distraction. If and how the typical bar interfaces with modern stability systems would be an interesting investigation.

Well put and accurate!

[jerrybob]

Originally Posted by Cotton

Good advice.

Thank you!

[floyd]

Originally Posted by jerrybob

No thank you. I've used both devices on other vehicles when needed.....my current truck does not need them. BTW....all that new stuff they put on modern vehicles......I don't need either.....just more stuff to go wrong and costly. I did hear that Ford came out with a new heated bumper.....comes in handy when they break down in winter and you need to push them. Enjoy your trailer......I will do the same.

If you can't tell the difference, its not worth the bother.


I have had this same discussion over tires for years.
To some folks , a good tire simply means the most miles, but to others that is only secondary to such things as traction and handling.
My trailer is properly set up before the addition of the friction sway and , like better tires, towing is better with this simple device.


I tend to agree that such things as compensated braking, vectoring, variable speed sensitive steering, etc can act to reduce driver skill,but I must admit that they have proven reliable. Besides all that stuff is standard nowadays so don't figure on buying new anytime soon.


BTW... You guys with SOB trucks still have to depend on gloves?
Or do you just wait for a Ford to come along and give you a push?

[ShelbyM]

Originally Posted by Raspy

The push from a passing semi is not reduced. If using a sway bar, part of the push against the trailer is sent to the truck instead. The truck gets pushed itself, plus it gets pushed by the trailer. An Oliver being pushed out of line a few degrees for a second or two just means it will swing right back in line during the next second, and the truck is only affected by the wind against the truck. This does not cause instability or danger.

Thanks. I can't edit the post so I'll rephrase it here. JMO, but the $100 for an anti-sway bar is well spent if just for reducing the movement from passing semis.

[Roland twodux]

Get a Casita and a rack for the top of your your truck and take the kayaks with you. Happy paddling.