Towing with an Equilizer hitch in Mexico

[upfisk]

We are getting ready to buy an Equlizer Hitch. Reading a statement on dos and don't it is suggested that the tow bars be disconnected for large differences in grades, rough roads, etc. The Mexican interstate highways have speed control devices called TOPES. They are speed bumps with an aggressive profile. They frequently enough are unmarked, have vertical sides, and can be as high as 1 ft. Anyone with experience towing with an Equilizer in Mexico?

[Jon MB]

The speed bumps I encountered driving in Mexico were not to be messed with, even in the rental cars. A foot high is an exaggeration, but 8 inch is not. With the steep approach (not vertical, but 45 degree or so), 10 kph was about the limit before spinal compression was a real possibility. However, the ones I came across were clearly marked and usually near marked cross walks and intersections. On the interstates I found none. That was 10~20 years ago, so things might be different now.
WDH are use to make the tow car and trailer more resistance to the 'caterpillar' effect of a vertically free pivot at the ball. When the steering wheels, or trailer wheels, are up on a rise the WDH applies more stress attempting to restore the rear of the tow car up to a 'level'. The difference of the tow car's rear axle below the front and trailer axle line when the WDH was set will mean much more of the WDH capacity will be applied to the tow car and trailer frame.
The WDH are typically two bars that are somewhat parallel. This also can apply different 'lift' forces if the tow car is leaned to the right and the trailer is leaned to the left. The more the combination 'twists', the more stress is applied by just one WDH bar.

[Raspy]

Equalizer or other brand bars do not have to be disconnected for highway use, or for around town. They must be disconnected for off-road articulation. But be sure to get the correct bars for your setup, not the heaviest ones, as the heavy ones, with a light trailer and tow vehicle will be too rigid. The bars have to flex or they will not work very well. We don't want a rigid connection to the tow vehicle, we want a spring connection.

Equalizers also make a lot of squeaking or grinding noise as the bars slide in their saddles. So be prepared to either grease those spots or get the plastic inserts.

I was in Baja again about ten months ago and the highways were better than ever. I don't remember seeing any of the "speed bumps" you speak of. Maybe some minor ones at inspection points. And even the dirt roads down to the popular beaches or smaller towns were good enough to work fine with equalizer bars.

[Herb Sutton]

The topes I encountered were on the mainland and were placed at the edge of town to slow traffic going through. They were also placed on approaches to toll booths.
It is some time since I have been down there.

[Perryb67]

Had a couple of Equalizer hitches, but no more. They are for those who want to lock their trailer to their tow vehicle. When we went from a Equalizer to a Blue Ox there was a night and day difference.

NO WDH/sway control will ever be 100% effective, because humans make mistakes. When we lived off of Interstate 94 in central Minnesota I’d see a couple of flipped trailers every year, many of them with Equalizer or equalizer type hitches. People screw up by not weighing their tongue and then using proper bars for the tongue weight. We own a Sherline Hitch Scale to measure our tongue.

We want a hitch that levels the trailer and truck, but does not lock the trailer like Equalizers or the like, yet gives sway control, with a good ride.

Our new-to-us 2016 Bigfoot 25RQ came with a E2 WDH, similar to the bars that sit on a “L” bracket and lock your trailer to your truck. When we get home I’ll be buying our third Blue Ox Sway Pro. With a Sway Pro there is no ball to set with cone/lock washers to go out of wack, everything is solid. The only thing you need to set is the chains, and by lifting the trailer while hooked to the ball they are easy to set and attach.

There are two choices of camps you can belong, the lock your trailer to your truck group with some sort of solid bar/“L” bracket for WD and sway control giving at best a so-so ride, or use chains and have WD, sway control, AND a much better ride.

Your choice

Enjoy,

Perry

[Perryb67]

Originally Posted by Raspy

Equalizers also make a lot of squeaking or grinding noise as the bars slide in their saddles. So be prepared to either grease those spots or get the plastic inserts.

Disagree. If you grease or get plastic inserts you basically defeat your sway control.

Enjoy,

Perry

[Jon MB]

Let's get this 'fine print' out of the way:
I have no expectation that my choices of tow equipment based in my analysis of the physics involved and the capabilities of different means of regulation of those movements will dissuade any one else from making their own choices.
I also do not want to appear to be obliquely criticizing another's choice, based on whatever analysis was used, when that choice is different than mine.

Now my rambling:
The post was in regards to load levelling weight distribution with regards to vertical movement resistance (not 'fixed' or 'locked', which I imply as movement prevention).
This load leveling function in my opinion should be separate from sway, or lateral movement oscillation, resistance.
Just as the tow vehicle suspension has springs AND shock dampers, each with specific purpose, I prefer to have load lift control, and a separate sway attenuation control, each able to be adjusted independently of each other.
WDH: I don't care if the tongue weight makes the tow car sit with the rear down a bit. I DO car that the tongue weight levers some weight off the FRONT wheels reducing steering and braking effectiveness. I set the WDH effort to just the amount needed to mitigate that front lift.
Anti-sway: The friction sway control is adjustable to compensate for polar moment of inertia differences that might not affect tongue weight. The full propane tanks' and batteries' addition to tongue weight can be offset or balanced by a rear rack with a generator and bicycles resulting in no change in tongue weight. Even though that mass at each end 'weighs' just as much as if it were all directly over the trailer axle, the momentum effect is much greater. The heavy masses at the ends makes the trailer harder to start to turn as the tow car starts a turn, then makes the trailer harder to stop turning once it does start following the tow car. This initial lag in the trailer following the tow car gets transformed into an overshoot and the trailer back-and-forth can start.
More anti-sway resistance is needed with heavier masses out at the ends, less resistance is preferable when that same total mass is more centered, even though the tongue weight is maintained exactly the same, and would use exactly the same amount of re-allocation of tongue weight onto the front axle in both scenarios.

[Travellers]

We have driven thru 25 of the 31 Mexican states and the federal district and have never seen a 1 foot tope. Maybe 6 inches. You will find topes before and after every school and at the entrance to every town. On the highway that goes from pelenque to the west coast along the Guatemala border we counted over 200 of them in total. Not a big deal though. You won’t have a problem with them. Great country. Super interesting culture. Enjoy the trip.

[oldwave]

The equalizer calls for grease but not on the bars, but on the yoke they are attached to, a very special area and I use the very specific grease for that area. I ended up with an Equalizer that I didn’t intend to buy. However with my truck , a 2500 Ram , it is a decent fit. The noises isn’t terrible and I was on the highway and in the mountains across the continent and it performed adequately. I may eventually buy the Propride I intended to get, but right now I’m perfectly happy with the hitch. I had a chain style hitch on my old Escspe (Pro Series), and it worked well. Somewhat similar to the Blue Ox, but not nearly as sophisticated.

[Jon MB]

Originally Posted by oldwave

The equalizer calls for grease but not on the bars, but on the yoke they are attached to... ...I had a chain style hitch ....

I believe Perry B was refering to lubrication on the sliding bar type that sits in an L shaped bracket attached to the tongue frame.
Increasing (or decreasing) the sway control with that type, by design, simultaneously increases, (or decreases), the weight distribution. They can't be independently adjusted.

In full disclosure: Our ordered, but yet-to-be-built trailer will be fitted at the factory with a type "L" bar combination WDH/sway control. Not my preference but that is all they offer and will warrant. It was a take-it, or leave-it.

[Perryb67]

Originally Posted by Jon MB

I believe Perry B was refering to lubrication on the sliding bar type that sits in an L shaped bracket attached to the tongue frame.
Increasing (or decreasing) the sway control with that type, by design, simultaneously increases, (or decreases), the weight distribution. They can't be independently adjusted.

In full disclosure: Our ordered, but yet-to-be-built trailer will be fitted at the factory with a type "L" bar combination WDH/sway control. Not my preference but that is all they offer and will warrant. It was a take-it, or leave-it.

That "L" shaped bracked is also known as the saddle. Don't believe you can increase the sway control, much less independently set them, but by greasing the "L" shaped bracket (saddle) you definitely reduce your sway control. These are friction type sway control.

Chain type have essentially no sway control at the center (driving straight down the road, but the more the chains are off-center the more sway control given. The sway control is increased the more the trailer sways, whereas Equalizer or E2 type WDH's the resistance remains pretty much the same as the trailer turns. Neither is perfect.

Enjoy,

Perry

[oldwave]

The best hitch for sway control is the Hensley and it’s next generation The Propride. It’s heavy and very expensive, but it doesn’t suffer from some of the shortcomings of the other hitches. I may still get one this year.

[Raspy]

Originally Posted by Perryb67

Disagree. If you grease or get plastic inserts you basically defeat your sway control.

Enjoy,

Perry

That's true, but a WDH is primarily a WDH, and not a sway control system. Sway control is a separate issue that sort of comes along accidentally on an Equalizer, is not adjustable, and is not always needed. It is very easy and logical to get annoyed with the loud grinding that an Equalizer makes and decide to grease it. It seems illogical to rely on the grinding of the bars to add sway control to the system, when the bars are actually for weight distribution. If the trailer is a stable design, no sway control is needed. And if it is needed, why not have a dedicated and adjustable system for sway, instead of just some variable friction the bars add while they are doing another job? Examples are telescoping sway controls or electronic ones that work the trailer brakes.

[Perryb67]

Originally Posted by Raspy

That's true, but a WDH is primarily a WDH, and not a sway control system. Sway control is a separate issue that sort of comes along accidentally on an Equalizer, is not adjustable, and is not always needed. It is very easy and logical to get annoyed with the loud grinding that an Equalizer makes and decide to grease it. It seems illogical to rely on the grinding of the bars to add sway control to the system, when the bars are actually for weight distribution. If the trailer is a stable design, no sway control is needed. And if it is needed, why not have a dedicated and adjustable system for sway, instead of just some variable friction the bars add while they are doing another job? Examples are telescoping sway controls or electronic ones that work the trailer brakes.

Then why would anybody in their right mind spend over $700 for an Equalizer when a simple $2-400 WDH will level your trailer?

To you, it may seem “illogical to rely on the grinding of the bars to add sway control to the system”, but, having a knowledge of physics, grinding will do as much to control sway as those other sway only systems that also rely on friction.

We own a Sherline Scale to check our tongue weight, and it is the best purchase for eliminating sway I know. Unfortunately, it got left behind in Lanesboro and, being small, could have easily fit in our F150. We drove 2,000 miles to pick up our 25’ Bigfoot on Vancouver Island, but a Bigfoot 25’ is not known for a light tongue.

I want a hitch that distributes weight (they all should), mitigates sway (none totally eliminate sway), is lighter than that massive head on our previous Equalizers, has chains to eliminate noise that allow backing up without bending “L” brackets, is easy to set up, and allows the tailgate to fully open. For that, my choice is a Blue Ox, but there are other choices people are happy with.

Writing this at Rusty’s in SW New Mexico, meandering our way to arrive at Inverness, Florida in late March, and then home by April 20.

Enjoy,

Perry

[Raspy]

Originally Posted by Perryb67

Then why would anybody in their right mind spend over $700 for an Equalizer when a simple $2-400 WDH will level your trailer?

To you, it may seem “illogical to rely on the grinding of the bars to add sway control to the system”, but, having a knowledge of physics, grinding will do as much to control sway as those other sway only systems that also rely on friction.

Enjoy,

Perry

In my mind, it is illogical to rely on a grinding, galling steel interface as an apparently accidental way to add a function that is not stated in the primary function of the unit. And then to offer, as an optional part, a plastic bushing that quiets the racket and reduces wear. Sway control is an important function and should not be a non-adjustable byproduct of weight distribution. Weight distribution and sway control are two separate functions. And sway control is arguably more important as it can easily crash the rig.

Knowledge of physics and materials easily points one to materials that don't destroy themselves any more than necessary to do their job. Automotive brake pads are a prime example. We could throw away the friction material and run metal to metal, as you may be suggesting as a valid way to apply friction, but it is easy to see that that method would be very short lived, noisy and poor in performance. Thats why I say the same metal to metal system is a poor choice for sway control, when proper friction materials are readily available and already in service doing that task. And doing it silently and with an easy way to adjust the amount of friction. Sway control needs to be independently adjustable from weight distribution. Proper machine design is much more elegant than galling metal.

[Perryb67]

Originally Posted by Raspy

In my mind, it is illogical to rely on a grinding, galling steel interface as an apparently accidental way to add a function that is not stated in the primary function of the unit. And then to offer, as an optional part, a plastic bushing that quiets the racket and reduces wear. Sway control is an important function and should not be a non-adjustable byproduct of weight distribution. Weight distribution and sway control are two separate functions. And sway control is arguably more important as it can easily crash the rig.

Knowledge of physics and materials easily points one to materials that don't destroy themselves any more than necessary to do their job. Automotive brake pads are a prime example. We could throw away the friction material and run metal to metal, as you may be suggesting as a valid way to apply friction, but it is easy to see that that method would be very short lived, noisy and poor in performance. Thats why I say the same metal to metal system is a poor choice for sway control, when proper friction materials are readily available and already in service doing that task. And doing it silently and with an easy way to adjust the amount of friction. Sway control needs to be independently adjustable from weight distribution. Proper machine design is much more elegant than galling metal.

Well, I guess that’s your opinion. However, like brake pads, those bars and “L” brackets wear out as well, yet serve their purpose for quite a long time. Nothing lasts forever.

Enjoy,

Perry

[Tom Brooks]

Originally Posted by Raspy

Equalizer or other brand bars do not have to be disconnected for highway use, or for around town. They must be disconnected for off-road articulation. But be sure to get the correct bars for your setup, not the heaviest ones, as the heavy ones, with a light trailer and tow vehicle will be too rigid. The bars have to flex or they will not work very well. We don't want a rigid connection to the tow vehicle, we want a spring connection.

Equalizers also make a lot of squeaking or grinding noise as the bars slide in their saddles. So be prepared to either grease those spots or get the plastic inserts.

I was in Baja again about ten months ago and the highways were better than ever. I don't remember seeing any of the "speed bumps" you speak of. Maybe some minor ones at inspection points. And even the dirt roads down to the popular beaches or smaller towns were good enough to work fine with equalizer bars.

Hi Raspy, you don't know me but I saw in your post that you had your trailer in Baja not long ago. Thinking of traveling down there.

We could take our Westfalia van camper which is super easy but my wife prefers the Casita. Is dragging around a trailer a hassle or are our little FG trailers pretty well suited for travel in Baja? Thanks for taking a moment to reply - greatly appreciated.

Tom in Tacoma, WA

[oldwave]

The very latest B%W weight distribution hitch that has just been released looks extremely promising with its hydraulic adjustments and reliance on a synthetic material for resilience. Unfortunately it’s design is not compatible with my Bigfoot’s fiberglass tongue cover or my credit card would already have been charged. I don’t mind the noise of my equalizer, and by the way lubricants are required on an Equalizer, but not on the bars. You lubricate the hitch head pivot points frequently. If you want to eliminate sway completely then the stupid expensive ProPride is the way to go.

[Raspy]

Originally Posted by Tom Brooks

Hi Raspy, you don't know me but I saw in your post that you had your trailer in Baja not long ago. Thinking of traveling down there.

We could take our Westfalia van camper which is super easy but my wife prefers the Casita. Is dragging around a trailer a hassle or are our little FG trailers pretty well suited for travel in Baja? Thanks for taking a moment to reply - greatly appreciated.

Tom in Tacoma, WA

Trailers are perfectly suited to Baja. The main highways are fine and the roads to smaller towns, or beaches, are paved or dirt. Not a problem at all. I would always choose a trailer over a van as you can leave it and go exploring in your tow vehicle. Every little town with a beach has camping and a restaurant on the beach or very close by. Some, more formal spots have hookups, but the best beach camping is done off-grid next to the water. You can get whatever you want as there are folks coming by to provide services or items for sale pretty often. The food is terrific and so is the beer. The Sea is warm and inviting. But avoid drinking the water unless it is specifically purified. I take a lot of cases of bottled water from Costco, for cooking, drinking and coffee. Get a local or someone knowledgeable to tell you about highway etiquette, it is different than here and useful. Dollars are universally accepted, but it's better to use Pesos, and more fun. Exchanges are easliy found. Gas stations are full service and they do a good job. Don't forget to tip the attendant. Most gas stations are very close to the same price, so no price shopping is needed. Price is Pesos per litre. Try to pick up a little Spanish before you go and always wear a genuine smile. You'll be treated well. Do not take any firearms! Expect to be casually stopped and lightly searched at road blocks once or twice a day. This is normal and is not a threat to you at all, even though they are armed. Let them peak into your trailer, go in with them, and wish them a good day. Buenos dias Senior! Gracias, etc. Best not to give them any gifts, such as Cokes, unless they are obviously parched. Just say no. They are not a threat, they are just doing their jobs. They'll wave you through and on you go. If you drive at night, watch out for range cattle that sleep or stand on the highway. Get a guide book so you can find the historic spots and enjoy walking through old towns while stopping for lunch and picking up a a few keepsakes. Older maps will show the federal Pemex gas stations, but
other oil companies are now there too. Don't run out of gas by stretching your run and then finding the gas station on the map is closed. Near towns, there will be no shortage. Don't stop or even pass through Tijuana if you can avoid it. The border is a zoo there and the town is not a good place to visit. Entering at Tecate is better. Have you paperwork in order. If you can, get down to Guerrero Negro and go out whale watching. The last time I was there, we petted whales from the Panga. Fantastic! Check with your cell provider to be sure your phone will work there. You may need a new sim card to make it work. Get this handled a week or two before you go, then you can make phone calls just like in the US. Take a polarity checker for the plugs at the camp. Make sure your tires and wheel bearings are fine. Baja is a great place to visit! Viva Mexico!