Trailer brakes

[kip22]

I'm tossing around the idea of replacing my axle and installing trailer brakes. I don't require them where I live because my boler doesn't weigh much. My question is: Is there any reason I can't install the brake controller inside the boler?


The reason for this is I only have a 4 pin connector on my SUV and don't plan to keep it too much longer. I don't want the hassle of installing the controller in the car and switching from 4 to 7 pin then ripping it all out or buying new soon. I've seen some controllers that connect in line to the 7 pin outside which gave me the idea. The boler has a battery for power/ground connection, power/brake wire and one wire to connect to brake lights. Any reason this wouldn't work or am I missing something?

[Casita Greg]

In a nutshell, you won't be able to run electric brakes with a 4-Pin connector. You'll need to "upgrade" your trailer's umbilical to a 7-Pin Bargman style connector, and install a "break-away" switch on the trailer tongue, and have a 12 vdc battery installed in the trailer itself, at least to make it all work the way it is supposed to. And if you don't have a tow vehicle with the 7-Pin connector, that would also need to be upgraded. A 4-Pin connector doesn't have any room for extra circuits other than just the lights, (running/right/left/brakes.)

You can run a 7-Pin Bargman to a 4-Pin flat connector, with an adapter, but you can't go from 4-Pin to 7-Pin.

[kip22]

Hi greg

Yes I understand the standard way of doing things is 7 pin both sides with the controller in the vehicle. That doesn't mean its the only way.

Here is the thing . A brake controller has 4 conductors.

1 for battery, 1 for ground. Boler has a battery with + and - to supply both.

One is brake power so that wire goes to the brakes.

The final wire is connected to vehicle brake light which the 4 pin connector supplies and is in the boler wire (needs to be spliced)

I'd either have to get a fancy bluetooth contoller or go back and forth between the vehicle and boler to adjust the controller where it needs to be but once setup it should just work.

So again why won't this work? I may be missing something but your answer isn't it.

[kip22]

Found it! Linked below. The catch is that brake lights in the trailer are really both turn signals. The unit linked below has 5 wires so u wire one to each brake light and brakes don't activate unless it sees both and senses stopping. I'm guessing this isn't the only one of these on the market.

https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Bra...e/3430001.html

[Raz]

In the normal set up the tow vehicle powers the brakes and charges the trailer battery using two additional wires. With what you are suggesting what powers the brakes? The trailer battery? Then what keeps the trailer battery charged. Without a charge line your trailer battery will soon be dead.

[kip22]

Hey Raz

I've got lots of power. 2X 60 amp lithium batteries separately switched to draw from one or the other and 100 watts of solar. I usually come home from trips with almost full batteries and that's bondocking. My main draw is a compressor fridge at 2.2 amps. I do carry an inverter and charger for the batteries to charge in my trunk if I was in a pinch but it's never happened.

The draw on electric trailer brakes is about 6 amps. So on a 12 hour drive (very likely 90% highway) the brakes might be applied for a total of what maybe an hour but probably way less. So on an extremely long driving day 6 amps. That's no problem.

[floyd]

Originally Posted by kip22

I'm tossing around the idea of replacing my axle and installing trailer brakes. I don't require them where I live because my boler doesn't weigh much. My question is: Is there any reason I can't install the brake controller inside the boler?


The reason for this is I only have a 4 pin connector on my SUV and don't plan to keep it too much longer. I don't want the hassle of installing the controller in the car and switching from 4 to 7 pin then ripping it all out or buying new soon. I've seen some controllers that connect in line to the 7 pin outside which gave me the idea. The boler has a battery for power/ground connection, power/brake wire and one wire to connect to brake lights. Any reason this wouldn't work or am I missing something?

If you buy a new axle, it will come with a backing plate installation bracket.
(check to be sure)
That way you can sell the trailer with the option to add brakes when desired.


You might check to see if a breakaway switch is required where you live, It is not where I live unless the trailer exceeds 3000 pounds.


Lots of folks here say that a remote controlled/ or phone controlled brake controller is a good thing... I'm not one of them.
If you get brakes... equip your tow vehicle with a hardwired controller. It is cheaper and it is more reliable, and it will be there if you switch trailers.

[Raz]

Originally Posted by floyd

Lots of folks here say that a remote controlled/ or phone controlled brake controller is a good thing... I'm not one of them.
If you get brakes... equip your tow vehicle with a hardwired controller. It is cheaper and it is more reliable, and it will be there if you switch trailers.

Though the unit referenced comes with a fob for manual over ride, I'm not sure I'd call this remote control. The unit mounts on the trailer, is triggered by the stop light signals, and uses the house battery to power the brakes. The op thinks the house battery will be adequate. I have my doubts.

[Escape 15A]

Originally Posted by floyd

If you buy a new axle, it will come with a backing plate installation bracket.
(check to be sure)
That way you can sell the trailer with the option to add brakes when desired.


You might check to see if a breakaway switch is required where you live, It is not where I live unless the trailer exceeds 3000 pounds.


Lots of folks here say that a remote controlled/ or phone controlled brake controller is a good thing... I'm not one of them.
If you get brakes... equip your tow vehicle with a hardwired controller. It is cheaper and it is more reliable, and it will be there if you switch trailers.

Floyd..that is a statement I fully agree with. Even thought some folks go wireless...I am ol' skool with a Prodigy P3.

[Roy in TO]

Originally Posted by kip22

I'm tossing around the idea of replacing my axle and installing trailer brakes. I don't require them where I live because my boler doesn't weigh much. My question is: Is there any reason I can't install the brake controller inside the boler?


The reason for this is I only have a 4 pin connector on my SUV and don't plan to keep it too much longer.

There is no reason you can't install brakes with a new axle and not use them for a while. Once you get a new vehicle, you can install the controller then.


I kept an idea from my boler American that had a removable trailer connection wire. When I swapped it out to the conventional 7 pin after installing brakes, I also made a 4 pin cable that could be used if the tow vehicle didn't have a 7 pin connection. There are images in one of my threads.


FWIW, I remove the cable when the trailer is parked. That way there are no trailer lights if the trailer gets stolen. Something that might get the thief pulled over. Same for the safety chains. A thief would have to bring their own custom cable or accessory tow lights and chains to tow legally.

[RockyBob]

Originally Posted by floyd

If you buy a new axle, it will come with a backing plate installation bracket.
(check to be sure)
That way you can sell the trailer with the option to add brakes when desired.


You might check to see if a breakaway switch is required where you live, It is not where I live unless the trailer exceeds 3000 pounds.


Lots of folks here say that a remote controlled/ or phone controlled brake controller is a good thing... I'm not one of them.
If you get brakes... equip your tow vehicle with a hardwired controller. It is cheaper and it is more reliable, and it will be there if you switch trailers.

The prodigy RF is perhaps even more reliable than std controllers—it is a common misconception that braking requires a wireless connection. That is not so, the wireless is only used to set initial sensitivity and to activate emergency braking. When used the system reports continuously about connectivity so long before the unlikely need for emergency use you will have hours and hours and hours of experience about connectivity. I’ve used the prodigy RF on two trailers and never ever had such an issue.
In the event you switch vehicles there is nothing to do except carry the hand controller into your new vehicle and plug it into a 12 volt outlet. The system is designed, in part, to make such switches trivial.

[theremin]

I've always used a hardwired brake controller in the past. But just for the heck of it, I bought a "wireless" Autowbrake" controller on the Scamp I picked up a couple of weeks ago. It works off of the brake light, and has a fob that you can use to kill sway if need be.

I've got to say that so far anyway, it works great--as well as my hardwired controller at least on the Scamp. And it's mounted in the trailer, so if I need to pull it with a vehicle that doesn't have a brake controller installed, I'll still have brakes.

Dave

[floyd]

My phone already has too many functions. Fobs and remotes get misplaced.
I do understand the variety of brake controllers available today.
Many people accept and recommend the ones which are not hardwired to the TV...That's fine, I'm just not one of them.

Each of my vehicles which are equipped to tow are equipped with hardwired trailer brake controls.
Economical, predictable, and reliable... heck if I sell, it even adds to resale value.


The new gadgets can be fun though, just not for me, so call me a Luddite.

[chrisblessing]

While I eventually replaced the four pin on my Scamp with a seven pin, I initially ran a wire from the vehicle battery to the trailer brake, with a disconnect at the tongue. Far from elegant but it was effective.