Trailer weights

[Rich Morrison]

I'm looking for a 13' trailer and was wondering if there is a listing of the weights of the various brands. thanks.

Rich Morrison

[Donna D.]

Rich, you can find some weights here in the archived Oregon Gathering thread: http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...tml#post216389

That said, we have found no TWO trailers weigh the same. A lot has to do with owner mods and definitely with owner camping styles... how much "stuff" one wishes to take camping. You need to remember, it isn't how much a trailer weighs empty (who camps with an empty trailer?), but how much a trailer weighs when loaded to go!

We may be able to help you get a better general idea if you tell us what your tug is and its tow capacity.

[Rich Morrison]

Thanks Donna. I have a 1985 Toyota Camry with a tow rating of 1500 lbs. The car has 68000 miles and is in excellent condition. I plan to install electric brakes if the trailer doesn't already have them. I will install a transmission cooler and proportional brake controller. Rich

[Donna D.]

Rich, unless someone else jumps in, you may want to get in touch with Des Nolan. Des tows a Boler with a Camry. He's an active member here and has this recent topic going: Carrying a canoe while towing a trailer; recommendations?

[Frederick L. Simson]

Originally Posted by Donna D.

Rich, you can find some weights here in the archived Oregon Gathering thread: http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...tml#post216389

I suggest looking at Trailer Weights in the Real World

This thread has excel spreadsheet data translated to this website's display.

[mcbrew]

Rich, my car is a Toyota as well, and carries a similar rating (1,600 pounds). I tow a 13' Scamp with it. My trailer weighs just about 1,200 pounds empty (with full propane tank). That is without a battery onboard. My wife and I carry about 200 pounds of gear with us... so it is getting close to 1,400 pounds.

There are folks on here who claim to carry 600-1,000 pounds of stuff with them when they camp. I'm not sure what they carry with them... but it is pretty easy to pack light. You can always go to a grocery store near the campground to pick up food and water if you really need to lower the travel weight.

Three other things I will share with you:

1) The claimed weight of most trailers is less than the actual weight. This is true throughout the RV world.
2) Tongue weight is usually fairly high on these little fiberglass trailers. Small cars like yours and mine prefer to have less weight on the rear suspension. In Europe, they usually recommend 5% of the trailer weight on the tongue. Here in the US, the recommendation is 10%. I reduced the tongue weight on my Scamp from around 15% to around 10% and the difference in ride quality is VERY noticeable.
3) Check the recommended tire pressure for your particular tires and the weight the trailer is putting on them. My tires have a max pressure of 50 PSI, but for the actual weight of the Scamp, they recommend between 15 and 20 PSI. I lowered them from 35 PSI to 20 PSI and the trailer bounces a lot less, and the tires do not run hot at this pressure. Tires running too hot is a sign that the tire pressure is too low. I am not doing anything odd here, I am actually going by Scamp's and the tire manufacturer's recommendation. You will hear a lot of people say that you should run the max pressure allowable, but you will feel a lot of bouncing and jerking... especially with a smaller car. And I can't imagine that all that bouncing is good for the trailer frame, suspension, coupler, or your camping gear inside.

[floyd]

Originally Posted by Rich Morrison

Thanks Donna. I have a 1985 Toyota Camry with a tow rating of 1500 lbs. The car has 68000 miles and is in excellent condition. I plan to install electric brakes if the trailer doesn't already have them. I will install a transmission cooler and proportional brake controller. Rich

Rich;
Be aware that in the case of most fiberglass trailers with torsion axles...
If it came without brakes, it came without backing plates, and a new axle will be required to add brakes. This is not a huge deal but you should look for the backing plates or the presence of brakes when you buy and consider the cost.
As for tire pressures, check with a dozen tire suppliers and see if you can find one who agrees with mcbrew.... who knows? there may just be one!

[mcbrew]

Floyd and I have beat this one to death... I trust the tire manufacturer and the trailer manufacturer... He trusts the guy who mounts tires form a living.

[Raya]

I am going to have to do some research because I will admit that I didn't know tire manufacturers recommended 15-20 psi inflation for ~1500# load. I know I have not been running my trailer tires that low; in fact that sounds super low to me. Maybe I'm guilty of over-inflation all this time?

mcbrew, do you have this information handy? What tire manufacturer are your tires from?

[floyd]

Originally Posted by mcbrew

Floyd and I have beat this one to death... I trust the tire manufacturer and the trailer manufacturer... He trusts the guy who mounts tires form a living.

Not only am I the guy,but I have 35 years of experience and have dealt with the manufacturers and their field representatives as a fleet mechanic and in auto racing.
You are in fact, relying on a chart which is pretty much ubiquitous and nearly always attached to further information, which you have chosen to ignore when it was presented to you.
I challenge you to call 10 goodyear dealers or their suppliers and find one who will concur with your conclusions. Whether you do or not I suggest you do what you think is best and advise others accordingly.

The only part of your response which sticks in my craw is your characterization of factory and manufacturer representatives as "the guy who mounts tires form a living" (sic) in an effort to discredit both their and my position. In fact these are the guys who write the things that you selectively quote.

Notice I simply advised seeking a second through thirteenth opinion and then making the choice, even to the point of accepting your advice, with or without substantiation if so desired.

I personally have no "rough ride" issues and don't consider my tires as suspension components,eventhough I have entertained the arguments to the contrary {between mounting tires of course}

I am sure you are an honest fellow and I invite you to report back here with the responses or explanations recieved from direct contact with the factory representatives, perhaps that will put this matter to rest.
Kindest regards

[Brian Van Snell]

floyd:

I checked here: www.goodyear.com/rv/pdf/rv_inflation.pdf

I'm attaching a table from this reference.

Our trailer's tires are ST185-80R-13 and our loaded axle weight is about 1000 pounds on each side, so I believe the correct inflation pressure is about 30 psi.

Mcbrew says his trailer has less than 700 pounds per tire (he says the loaded weight is 1400 pounds but that would include tongue weight) then it seems the inflation pressure could be as low as 15 psi.

Brian

[Raya]

Wow, that is really interesting. I can't imagine running at 15 psi, but....? I am not a tire expert at all, so I'm just learning along with the thread here. I thought I remembered something about one reason that people are supposed to use ST tires and not car/truck tires is because you can run with higher pressure? If that is true, then this seems to contradict it (at least to my untrained mind).

I do notice an asterisk on Goodyear's data chart that Brian linked to, which leads to this:

* Industry standards for load & inflation are in the process of being revised. These tables are current as of 01/01/05. For the most current
information, please visit the RV Tire section of Goodyear’s Web site at Goodyear RV Tires.

However since where they tell you to go for current info seems to lead right back to the chart where Brian got his info, it seems a bit circular

I'll be eagerly watching this thread to learn more about tire inflation. Thanks to the knowledgeable folks chipping in.

Raya

[floyd]

Originally Posted by Brian Van Snell

floyd:

I checked here: www.goodyear.com/rv/pdf/rv_inflation.pdf

I'm attaching a table from this reference.

Our trailer's tires are ST185-80R-13 and our loaded axle weight is about 1000 pounds on each side, so I believe the correct inflation pressure is about 30 psi.

Mcbrew says his trailer has less than 700 pounds per tire (he says the loaded weight is 1400 pounds but that would include tongue weight) then it seems the inflation pressure could be as low as 15 psi.

Brian

Ok, So you checked the same info that Mcbrew checked, It is the same chart used by every tire company in the US, the same ones who will void your warranty for underinflation, Notice I did not say "show me the same old chart".

On page 6 of the following link is "Same old Chart" with it's attached disclaimer which I have found from the reps of every tire manufacturer of trailer tires with whom I have consulted, including Goodyear.
The chart is interesting but Paul Harvey had it right... You must hear "the rest of the story".
Having heard it... do as you please, I know I will.

http://www.carlisletire.com/product_...are_safety.pdf

[Wallo]

Isn't the recommended tire pressure printed on the side of the tire? That's what I've always used. I also account for the outdoor temp summer and winter.

[Casita Greg]

The tire's inflation info is required by DOT regulation on all road tires, as is the tire load rating and manufacture date. Tire pressure (psi) is given as a minimum and a maximum. I always pump mine up to the maximum psi marked on the tire to add stiffness to the sidewall, lessening the chance of potential underinflation problems. This is always done with the tire cold. Once filled and measured while cold, there is no need to adjust the pressure as the tire warms up, as this pressure increase has already been factored into the maximum cold tire pressure rating.

[Borden]

It is true the weight depends on stock setup, dry or tanks full. The trailer I have was original at 2500lbs dry 17' 4" boler; but have seen 17' boler tip scales at 1400lbs with extensive modifications. Add a roll awning and you add weight to this. Keep in mind if trailer is equal to 50% of vehicale weight or more then trailer brakes are required. We also need to consider the amount of air we are pushing and may need a transmission cooler installed. The air was not a problem with our old tent trailer but this is better.

[mcbrew]

Originally Posted by Wallo

Isn't the recommended tire pressure printed on the side of the tire? That's what I've always used. I also account for the outdoor temp summer and winter.

Not really. They print the MAX inflation on the tire... just as they give a MAX speed rating. That doesn't mean I have to drive my car at 120 MPH all the time because it says MAX 120 MPH on the side of the tire .

You'll notice that your car's manufacturer gives you the tire pressure recommendations, not the tire manufacturer. That's because the tire isn't made for just your model of car, but is likely used for many different makes and models, with a wide weight range. A trailer manufacturer should also give you a pressure recommendation based on the weight on the tires. The manufacturer just gives you the "not to exceed" pressure. Cargo trailers differ, because the weight will be very different between an empty and a full trailer... so tire manufacturers provide info based on the actual weight that you are running at the time. I keep a 12v compressor in my car so that I can lower the pressure in my cargo trailer when towing it empty (or light loads) and raise the pressure when I have heavy loads in it.

It IS true that underinflation can result in the tire running too hot, which can cause catastrophic tire damage. I am NOT recommending that anyone run their tires at too low a level. I am talking about running the tire at the recommended pressure. Just keep in mind that the weight charts are talking about the weight on EACH tire, not the weight of the trailer. Yes, you CAN run the tire at the max pressure, but the ride might be bouncier. I noticed that with my Scamp, even at just 35 PSI. I felt that the bouncing was not good for the trailer, its contents, or my car's hitch. I check my tire temperature (tow vehicle and trailer) after long hauls... and they are all within a normal temperature range. I also found that I needed to up the pressure in my car's rear tires to account for the extra weight. That brought the temperature back down.

[Raya]

Originally Posted by Borden

Keep in mind if trailer is equal to 50% of vehicale weight or more then trailer brakes are required.

I don't believe this is true across the board (as it sounds the way you stated it). For example, my car weighs around 3300# and is rated to tow about the same. Trailer brakes are required over 2000#, but that is well over half of the vehicle weight.

There may be local laws about the 50% in some places, I don't know, but I don't think it is an absolute.

**************

On the tire pressure: I had read that one should not necessarily go by the tire weight printed (say) on the door of the car once one had gone beyond the original tires. Reason being you could buy tires that were appropriate for the car, but a slightly different type and that you should go by the tire manufacturer's recommendation at that point. For example, my car is 21 years old, and so perhaps tires/compounds might have changed in that time. I still buy tires of the appropriate circumference and general class, of course.

Raya

[mcbrew]

In Maryland, brakes are required over 3,000 pounds. Break-away activation is required on ANY trailer that has brakes, even if it is less than 3,000 pounds. No laws regarding tow vehicle weight.

[Borden]

In Ontario if the trailer is 50% of car or truck weight then brakes are required with a disconnect switch