WD Hitch for 16' Scamp with dual LP tanks - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV
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Old 07-24-2013, 03:33 PM   #21
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Andersen No-Sway detail:
Quote:
Originally Posted by gmw photos View Post
There can be some hitch compatibility issues, so that's worth looking into.
George, I assume you meant "coupler", not "hitch".
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Old 07-24-2013, 03:35 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuyler1 View Post
The suspension on my truck is relatively stiff and I can raise the rear with air shocks if I have to. So leveling the truck isn't the reason for picking a WD hitch. I want one so that when the trailer brakes and the tongue weight increases, the hitch helps apply those forces evenly between both truck axles.
How about not "evenly", but "with more load on the front axle and less on the rear axle than without WD"? That's what a WD system does.
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Old 07-24-2013, 03:36 PM   #23
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Without getting into detail here, can you post a link to the compatibility issues?
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Old 07-24-2013, 03:49 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuyler1 View Post
Without getting into detail here, can you post a link to the compatibility issues?
The big discussion in the Escape Forum (with some participants who will be familiar from FiberglassRV) is Anderson weight distribution hitch. It's long, but the middle third is a sidetrack into unrelated stuff, and the coupler issue is dealt with in the first third.
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Old 07-24-2013, 03:50 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
Andersen No-Sway detail:

George, I assume you meant "coupler", not "hitch".
Yes, you are correct Brian....thanks for catching that.

Chris, I believe the compatibility issue is with "certain" Atwood couplers.

Here is one post regarding it, but there is a huge discussion about it over there and that forum.

Atwood / Marvel Coupler Wear - Airstream Forums
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Old 07-24-2013, 08:41 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmw photos View Post
Yes, you are correct Brian....thanks for catching that.

Chris, I believe the compatibility issue is with "certain" Atwood couplers.

Here is one post regarding it, but there is a huge discussion about it over there and that forum.

Atwood / Marvel Coupler Wear - Airstream Forums
Excuse my newbie-ness but from my photos posted will this be an issue for me?
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Old 07-24-2013, 09:13 PM   #27
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Ok, watched a few of the videos and read through some of the discussions. I understand the risks with attempting to transfer heavy loads through those chains and it appears the weakest link would be how the clamps are mounted to the frame. It makes sense that people are recommending the system for lighter trailers.

What I don't understand completely is how the hitch will handle vertical changes between the TV and trailer. The urethane bushings don't appear to provide much range of motion. What happens when you try to pull into a steep driveway?
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Old 07-25-2013, 07:40 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuyler1 View Post
Ok, watched a few of the videos and read through some of the discussions. I understand the risks with attempting to transfer heavy loads through those chains and it appears the weakest link would be how the clamps are mounted to the frame. It makes sense that people are recommending the system for lighter trailers.

What I don't understand completely is how the hitch will handle vertical changes between the TV and trailer. The urethane bushings don't appear to provide much range of motion. What happens when you try to pull into a steep driveway?
One of my suspicions regarding the Andersen, is that the entire function of the hitch provides a "more solid" connection, or bridge, if you will between the truck and the trailer. In my mind, if I am right, this likely transfers more energy, or load, into the chassis of the truck and the trailer suspension when the joint at the hitch tries to flex, such as you say when pulling into a steep driveway. This is one of the reasons at least one Airstream owner stopped using it. He thinks it was responsible for stressing the semi-monococque design of his trailer, causing multiple rivets to shear. Airstreams, by most accounts like a "soft ride".
In my mind, the longer travel afforded by a conventional spring bar hitch, by way of comparison, gives this desired softer ride.

Again, I am speculating regarding the Andersen, but if I am right, it is one of the reasons I do not want to use one personally.

It's a unique and new design, so at least in my mind, the long term effects of using it is still a situation of "the jury is still out". Some users have reported some other issues as well, and I just don't feel like doing beta testing for the manufacturer.

Not trying to sound like I am trying to sell the BlueOx, but one of things I like about it is the fact you can choose from different weight spring bars, so at least the idea is, you can more likely get the fine tuning closer to optimum for your particular rig.

Still, regarding the Andersen, there are a number of users that are totally sold on it, and report a very good towing experience with it, so their views are certainly worth consideration as well.
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Old 07-25-2013, 08:16 AM   #29
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I'll do some more reading on it. The principle of the hitch design definitely makes sense but I can easily see how the forces applied by it can increase dramatically if the trailer wants to bounce or the tongue needs to dip to allow changes in elevation between the front wheels of the tow vehicle and the trailer. You might not hear any sounds driving down the highway but pulling into your campsite a loud "pop" of the weakest link, a chain, a bolt, your receiver, could turn into an expensive repair. I suppose the same could be said for any WD hitch but I would feel safer knowing how progressive or linear those urethane bushings are when it comes to flexing and handling road undulations.
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Old 07-25-2013, 08:27 AM   #30
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From what I've read here, the best way to completely eliminate the possibility of sway is to use a WD hitch and dial up the springs enough to lift the TV rear tires off the ground and the weld everything in place. This provides a long wheel base and nothing moves. <grin>


Seriously, I really enjoyed reading this thread. I'd recommend it to anyone interested in WD hitches. I have been a believer in them since pulling a 6500 lb plus trailer with a K5 Blazer many years ago. I had no issues with sway and did like the positive steering feel it provided.

The Blue Ox system seems impressive and I particularly enjoyed reading the analysis of how it provides sway control. I'll check back to see if any Blue Ox owners provide further updates, insights, etc.

Thanks again to all you contributors.
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Old 07-25-2013, 09:35 AM   #31
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Name: Darrell
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I went to a Andersen WD after a few times towing my 16 Deluxe with 2 propane tanks. My TV is a Wangler Unlimited. The good is you adjust the wt distribution with a socket wrench, lower weigh and would fit. I can't say that it is the best I've not used the others. The Andersen was recommended by a local RV shop I go to. If I was towing a 5000 lbs or more trailer I would probably use something else due to issues with damaged couplers and such.
IMHO
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Old 07-25-2013, 09:39 AM   #32
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Just curious. How many Scamp 16 owners tow with a W/D hitch?
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Old 07-25-2013, 05:12 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuyler1 View Post
Excuse my newbie-ness but from my photos posted will this be an issue for me?
That looks like a common lever-latch coupler, so I assume it's not one which is a specific problem, but I don't really know.

Personally, I wouldn't use an Andersen No-Sway with any typical coupler having that little spring-loaded jaw in the back; perhaps a forged Bulldog, or the relatively new Quick-Bite, or just the classic yoke-type such as my Atwood. Even with my Atwood I would be annoyed if the WD system wore out the jaw, because in normal use that never wears out so no replacement part is available - a new coupler would need to be welded on.
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