WDH/Sway Bar Bigfoot 25RQ Twin with front storage box - Fiberglass RV
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Old 01-20-2024, 10:22 PM   #1
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Name: Mary
Trailer: Bigfoot 25RQ Twin
Texas
Posts: 17
Question WDH/Sway Bar Bigfoot 25RQ Twin with front storage box

Hi! We've just put our down payment on our still not named Bigfoot 25RQ Twin with the front storage box. We're very excited. We're in a 3/4 ton and the dealer said that a Blue Ox is what they've used with previous owners of this model (key point: with the front storage box) and they said they don't have to "cut the storage box" with the Blue Ox. We've heard Equalizer is really good and is our preference and obviously don't want our "storage box cut" for the sake of a WDH. Does this make sense to you guys? Which WDH/Sway bar works with a this length and a front storage box? We have some time until it's ready so checking with the experts here on this forum. Thanks much and happy travels!
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Old 01-20-2024, 11:53 PM   #2
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Name: Dean
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Originally Posted by LilMare View Post
Hi! We've just put our down payment on our still not named Bigfoot 25RQ Twin with the front storage box. We're very excited. We're in a 3/4 ton and the dealer said that a Blue Ox is what they've used with previous owners of this model (key point: with the front storage box) and they said they don't have to "cut the storage box" with the Blue Ox. We've heard Equalizer is really good and is our preference and obviously don't want our "storage box cut" for the sake of a WDH. Does this make sense to you guys? Which WDH/Sway bar works with a this length and a front storage box? We have some time until it's ready so checking with the experts here on this forum. Thanks much and happy travels!
The photos of an equalizer hitch vs a blue ox are very similar. Iíd make a call to the manufacturer and ask them.
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Old 01-21-2024, 08:42 AM   #3
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Trailer: 2016 Bigfoot 25RQ
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Have had numerous WDHís with the ownership of 14 pull type trailers over the years. By far, our favorite is a Blue Ox, with a Fastway E2 being a second choice. Didnít care for an Equalizer, with their heavy bars and need for greasing.

Since they donít have to cut into the box, that would make the Blue Ox a no-brainer.

I installed a Blue Ox on our 2003 Bigfoot 25RQ, but a E2 came with our 2016 25RQ, and aside from being squeaky in a campground, works just fine.

Food for thought,

Perry
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Old 01-21-2024, 05:01 PM   #4
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Name: Fred
Trailer: Escape 19
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Originally Posted by LilMare View Post
Hi! We've just put our down payment on our still not named Bigfoot 25RQ Twin with the front storage box. We're very excited. We're in a 3/4 ton and the dealer said that a Blue Ox is what they've used with previous owners of this model (key point: with the front storage box) and they said they don't have to "cut the storage box" with the Blue Ox. We've heard Equalizer is really good and is our preference and obviously don't want our "storage box cut" for the sake of a WDH. Does this make sense to you guys? Which WDH/Sway bar works with a this length and a front storage box? We have some time until it's ready so checking with the experts here on this forum. Thanks much and happy travels!
If you are talking weight distribution hitch we have one for sale cheap.
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Old 01-21-2024, 05:48 PM   #5
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Name: Bruce & Kathryn
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North Carolina
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X2 for Perryís suggestion. We have an Equalizer with a Chevy 2500. Small cuts were needed in fiberglass, not really noticable. Our tongue weight is 1200#, which seems average for the storage box units. If Blue Ox works, itís a lighter unit to use and an easier install. But with 2500, probably ok towing on the ball. I will add that the Equalizer hitch does allow me to fully open the tailgate when hitched. Assume the same with Blue Ox but worth asking.
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Old 01-25-2024, 11:09 PM   #6
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Georgia
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I don't see how you can possibly get away without cutting the box, even for a Blue Ox Sway Pro.

Forget the equalizer, worlds stiffest and heaviest bars. I had one on another trailer, I bought it because "everyone" raved about them. I spent an entire day setting it up and it was so stiff that i had real concerns about the hitch and frame on the truck.

I got my BF 21RB and it had never been cut for a hitch, and seller said it towed just fine without a WDH. That was until I loaded it. Its a long story I won't get into but I ended up with a 1000 lb tongue wt BOSP hitch and installed it, and have been happy ever since.

The only way I see you can not cut the fiberglass is to shim the entire front box/parrots beak up about a quarter inch, which would put it interfering with the front of the trailer, due to the wedge shape. I'm still not sure it would allow the hitch to be installed without cutting even after shimming it up. I cut mine with a dremel and saw and used a round file for some of it. With an Equalizer you will have some big holes, and the brackets need to be further aft for the most spring bar effect, and the LP tanks are in the way. Thats the other reason for using the Blue Ox is that the bars are shorter and the brackets are further forward.

I initially thought I could fit the brackets and drop the cargo box/parrots beak down on the brackets and it would all work, but the brackets forced the parrots beak to spread and it was apparent there was going to be a lot of wear and fretting and abrasion going on so I marked and cut the fiberglass.

Blue Ox does make a different type of chain bracket that while designed to be bolted on, could be welded on, and I had those brackets too, but elected to cut the fiberglass instead.

Charles



Attached Thumbnails
Blue Ox chain bracket RH side.jpg   Blue Ox chain bracket inch and a half bolt.jpg  

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Old 01-26-2024, 11:55 PM   #7
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I have a 2023 RQ with a Ram 2500 and the equalizer wdh. I wanted a Propride (yes stupid expensive) but circumstances surrounding a December pickup and an ice storm had me getting what I could get done in a short window of time. That said I have used it for 18,000 miles towing last year and it worked fine. The bars aren’t that heavy and the setup time for hooking up is minimal. There is a small cutout of the box, not objectionable. I have towed briefly without it for service calls off the freeway and it still very stable. The blue ox is a fine choice also, though maintenance is needed on all wdh.
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Old 01-27-2024, 06:28 AM   #8
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We did buy the stupid expensive Propride, and it saved us from selling off our Silver Cloud as soon as we bought it. The sway we experienced getting it home to Chicago from Eugene was terrifying. We were using a Ford Expedition at the time, the equivalent of an F150. Things might have been different had we had our RAM 2500. No regrets though at all. Now, instead of terror when a semi passes, it might be a gentle nudge. And yes, installation meant cutting the box.

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Old 01-27-2024, 09:00 AM   #9
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Lanesboro, Minnesota, between Whalan and Fountain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CindyL View Post
We did buy the stupid expensive Propride, and it saved us from selling off our Silver Cloud as soon as we bought it. The sway we experienced getting it home to Chicago from Eugene was terrifying. We were using a Ford Expedition at the time, the equivalent of an F150. Things might have been different had we had our RAM 2500. No regrets though at all. Now, instead of terror when a semi passes, it might be a gentle nudge. And yes, installation meant cutting the box.

CindyL
Doesn't matter if you have a 1/2 ton, 3/4 ton, or 1 ton tow vehicle, sway occurs at the ball and back. All WDH's should move weight from the ball to the front wheels. Some will include sway control. A camper behind a 1 ton vehicle will sway just as much as the sway behind a 1/2 ton vehicle.

We had one of the 1st Andersen sway control hitches and despite being set up correctly did not prevent our Cougar from swaying, but a Blue Ox did. Andersen has changed the hitch build since we owned ours. The "Equalizer" worked great, but it's heavy and squeaked. A E2 came with our Bigfoot and it works quite well.

Only sway control will help with sway. While you don't need as much weight distribution with a larger truck, the sway of the trailer will be the same. Proper trailer loading is the answer, along with sway control, to prevent the loss of your trailer.

Enjoy,

Perry
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Old 01-27-2024, 12:08 PM   #10
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Name: Mary
Trailer: Bigfoot 25RQ Twin
Texas
Posts: 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by Perryb67 View Post
Doesn't matter if you have a 1/2 ton, 3/4 ton, or 1 ton tow vehicle, sway occurs at the ball and back. All WDH's should move weight from the ball to the front wheels. Some will include sway control. A camper behind a 1 ton vehicle will sway just as much as the sway behind a 1/2 ton vehicle.

We had one of the 1st Andersen sway control hitches and despite being set up correctly did not prevent our Cougar from swaying, but a Blue Ox did. Andersen has changed the hitch build since we owned ours. The "Equalizer" worked great, but it's heavy and squeaked. A E2 came with our Bigfoot and it works quite well.

Only sway control will help with sway. While you don't need as much weight distribution with a larger truck, the sway of the trailer will be the same. Proper trailer loading is the answer, along with sway control, to prevent the loss of your trailer.

Enjoy,

Perry
Good points from everyone and so helpful. Thank you! We totally agree on sway is on the ball, the need for a WDH and glad we're towing with a 3/4 ton. We're leaning more towards the E2 (the tailgate access while hooked up is critical for us). However, you mention loading. We've always had tents and just sold our pop up camper. The 25RQ is the largest we've towed. Tips for loading would be appreciated.
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Old 01-27-2024, 12:30 PM   #11
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Trailer: 2016 Bigfoot 25RQ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LilMare View Post
Good points from everyone and so helpful. Thank you! We totally agree on sway is on the ball, the need for a WDH and glad we're towing with a 3/4 ton. We're leaning more towards the E2 (the tailgate access while hooked up is critical for us). However, you mention loading. We've always had tents and just sold our pop up camper. The 25RQ is the largest we've towed. Tips for loading would be appreciated.
I recommend buying a Sherline Tongue Scale to measure ball weight. The weight on our ball is about 950#'s, but we don't have, or need, the front storage box.

Weigh your trailer on a CAT scale at least once a year, when fully loaded. Ours is about 6,200#'s. We don't carry the proverbial "kitchen sink", but over 16 previous campers we've learned what we need and don't need. YMMV!

We were surprised how well the E2 works for us and are going to keep it. Ours is an older model though.

We tow with a Ford F150 max tow, and the trailer and gear are well within the specs of the truck, so no 3/4 ton needed, and the ride is much better than any 3/4 truck I've ridden or owned. However, most F150's are not within specs.

Food for thought,

Perry
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Old 01-27-2024, 04:55 PM   #12
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Name: Henry
Trailer: BigFoot
Tennessee
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Blue Ox. Read #6 and # 11. Can't say it better than that.
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Old 01-28-2024, 11:17 PM   #13
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Ohio
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This guy is a bit of a gomer, but there is information on his channel. Ymmv
https://youtu.be/nAuiFIJHAQ0?si=-jFIaL07bL4utMge
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Old 01-28-2024, 11:51 PM   #14
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Name: Kenny
Trailer: Bigfoot
Georgia
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For my Tundra and 25RQ(no front storage) I run about 800-850 on hitch. I use the Equalizer 4 as it came recommended. I don't have complaints except I personally dialed it in when I got home from the dealer as the hitch ball was set to low and I need more distribution. When I get into campsites or at home, I take the bars off to make it easier to turn or back into the campsite. Another great tip by someone was to throw the bars into the rear bumper of the trailer where the sewer hose is "supposed" to fit. The bars weigh close to #20, and the bars/hitch weigh just under #100. This definitely helped with sway, but also important to keep speed under 65 and ensure you have 12-15% hitch weight. I don't have experience with other systems as my last trailer was a 13' Scamp, but having a WDH is better than nothing at all. Also agree with Perry at buying Sherline Tongue Scale, my scale goes up to 2000 pounds.
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Old 01-29-2024, 06:02 AM   #15
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Trailer: BigFoot
Tennessee
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Good point about using a Sherline scale (buy the 2000lb scale), although based on comments on various forums, it may not be as accurate as CAT scales. Just a lot more convenient. As mentioned, put some weight on the front of the trailer (BF 25B with cargo box loaded), I use about 20% (about 1200lbs, hitch weight). I prefer to use the Blue Ox because you can back up without first taking anything off the WDH, it is quick and easy to engage and works very well for both sway and proposing. But...I would not hesitate to pull my trailer with my truck without using a WDH after moving some weight to the back of the trailer, it pulls that well.
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Old 02-04-2024, 12:43 PM   #16
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Name: Cliff
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We looked at a BF 25rq yesterday but probably will go with a twin bed model if we buy one . I currently have a 2020 F450 as we have a 40’ 5thwheel we are selling. Haven’t pulled a travel trailer so I’m wondering if I would need weight distribution high . My hitch receiver on my truck says a little over 2400# hitch weight max . My 5thwheel weighs 24k the way we travel so this trailer will be less than a third the weight.
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Old 02-05-2024, 10:28 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by cwall59 View Post
We looked at a BF 25rq yesterday but probably will go with a twin bed model if we buy one . I currently have a 2020 F450 as we have a 40í 5thwheel we are selling. Havenít pulled a travel trailer so Iím wondering if I would need weight distribution high . My hitch receiver on my truck says a little over 2400# hitch weight max . My 5thwheel weighs 24k the way we travel so this trailer will be less than a third the weight.
Clearly, you do not need a WDH. However you probably should have some sway control, as a just in case, if for no other reason.

You might consider a Tuson Sway Control system (cheaper on Amazon)

https://tusonrvbrakes.com/products/t...ntrol-tsc-1000

This requires some rewiring of the brakes to separate the left and right sides but the unit passes thru all brake actuation signals from the controller. Read the info on the web site, but it applies the left or right brakes momentarily (so minute that most people say they really cannot feel it, but can tell its working).

Charles
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Old 02-06-2024, 05:12 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by CharlesinGA View Post
Clearly, you do not need a WDH. However you probably should have some sway control, as a just in case, if for no other reason.

You might consider a Tuson Sway Control system (cheaper on Amazon)

https://tusonrvbrakes.com/products/t...ntrol-tsc-1000

This requires some rewiring of the brakes to separate the left and right sides but the unit passes thru all brake actuation signals from the controller. Read the info on the web site, but it applies the left or right brakes momentarily (so minute that most people say they really cannot feel it, but can tell its working).

Charles
Thanks for the information, I have never pulled a travel trailer, we currently have a triple axle 40í 5thwheel that I pull with a GenY gooseneck style hitch. Different animals I know so just trying to figure out what I may need ahead of time. My truck has a weight distribution receiver hitch from the factory. See so many types of equalization/ sway bar type hitches my head is spinning.
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Old 02-07-2024, 11:47 PM   #19
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Trailer: Bigfoot
Georgia
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On the Bigfoot with the front cargo (I cannot speak for the short tongue model) one consideration is where the bar brackets go. On the Blue Ox, its a specific point and the bars are short enough that it winds up just forward of the LP cylinders (as you see in the pics above). With other hitches such as the equalizer, they are designed to put the L bracket on the frame as far aft as possible (within their specs) 25 to 32 inches from the center of the ball. The problem is, with the BF the bracket will be about 28 or 29 inches, and this means that the effective part of the spring bar, the section that bends is shorter. Meaning, it is more difficult to bend, due to lack of leverage on the bar. On a tight turn, the inside bars effective length is even shorter and putting that much more stress on the tongue and especially the tow vehicle.



The Blue Ox bars are 29 inches and engineered to bend at this length. The Equalizer bars are engineered to bend at 32 inches. Its not just the Equalizer, other hitches are the same way.

This is one of the main reasons I chose the Sway Pro, the bar length would allow for a proper installation and the hitch had a good reputation.

On the BF the propane cylinders have a lot of fore and aft movement if you grab the rod and shake it around. I simply didn't trust the cylinders to not move enough to strike the bolt heads of the bracket or the brackets themselves. I engineered a brace running from the top of the threaded rod, held down by the wing nut that retains the tanks, and runs down to an attachment by the lower support for the tongue jack. Its made of 1/2 EMT (Electrical metallic tubing) conduit, with crushed and drilled ends.

I also found that the self drilling screws that BF used to attach the tank base were the typical super hard steel found in self drilling screws and they were rusted and fractured when I attempted to remove them. I opened up the holes and installed stainless 1/4-20 bolts and self locking nuts.

One last thing, on the Blue Ox hitch, you will need shorter set screws to retain the brackets than is provided by BO. They give you 2-1/2 and 3 inch. You need 1-1/2 inch. These are square head, cup point set screws 1/2-13 thread. From Fastenal they are special order, but they are readily available in stainless from McMaster-Carr

https://www.mcmaster.com/92308A716/

or plain carbon steel

https://www.mcmaster.com/91410A716/



Charles
Attached Thumbnails
Propane tank brace.jpg  
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Old 02-08-2024, 09:54 AM   #20
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Name: Cliff
Trailer: In market
Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CharlesinGA View Post
On the Bigfoot with the front cargo (I cannot speak for the short tongue model) one consideration is where the bar brackets go. On the Blue Ox, its a specific point and the bars are short enough that it winds up just forward of the LP cylinders (as you see in the pics above). With other hitches such as the equalizer, they are designed to put the L bracket on the frame as far aft as possible (within their specs) 25 to 32 inches from the center of the ball. The problem is, with the BF the bracket will be about 28 or 29 inches, and this means that the effective part of the spring bar, the section that bends is shorter. Meaning, it is more difficult to bend, due to lack of leverage on the bar. On a tight turn, the inside bars effective length is even shorter and putting that much more stress on the tongue and especially the tow vehicle.



The Blue Ox bars are 29 inches and engineered to bend at this length. The Equalizer bars are engineered to bend at 32 inches. Its not just the Equalizer, other hitches are the same way.

This is one of the main reasons I chose the Sway Pro, the bar length would allow for a proper installation and the hitch had a good reputation.

On the BF the propane cylinders have a lot of fore and aft movement if you grab the rod and shake it around. I simply didn't trust the cylinders to not move enough to strike the bolt heads of the bracket or the brackets themselves. I engineered a brace running from the top of the threaded rod, held down by the wing nut that retains the tanks, and runs down to an attachment by the lower support for the tongue jack. Its made of 1/2 EMT (Electrical metallic tubing) conduit, with crushed and drilled ends.

I also found that the self drilling screws that BF used to attach the tank base were the typical super hard steel found in self drilling screws and they were rusted and fractured when I attempted to remove them. I opened up the holes and installed stainless 1/4-20 bolts and self locking nuts.

One last thing, on the Blue Ox hitch, you will need shorter set screws to retain the brackets than is provided by BO. They give you 2-1/2 and 3 inch. You need 1-1/2 inch. These are square head, cup point set screws 1/2-13 thread. From Fastenal they are special order, but they are readily available in stainless from McMaster-Carr

https://www.mcmaster.com/92308A716/

or plain carbon steel

https://www.mcmaster.com/91410A716/



Charles
Thanks for the great information
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